throttle lock help!

[jokerloco9@aol.com]

I agree the anti-seize is a must for the Al-stainless contact. But I think most people are saying the stock bolts are very weak, in addition to the corrosion/sticking issue, and may easily break in the future if they do corrode up. Many people would say that having to remove a broken bolt in the future can be more trouble than replacing all of the bolts with high quality now. Jeff A20 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[pdstreeter@mmm.com]

Jim Fortner was asking about case bolts:

> > Have you taken any of the case bolts out of your engine lately? >What year is the KLR and how many miles?

I pulled all the case bolts out of my '88 KLR (A2) with 40,000 miles on the clock. I didn't have a problem with any of them. I tore down the engine to the bare crankcase. Paul Steeter

[geobas]

Mac, as you can see by my photos in the next e-mail I attached a piece of 3/4" x 3" from a 3" ABS pipe to the bottom of the throttle lock and then attached the lock to the throttle cable housing (I think that's what it is). You have to carefully drill and tap the housing for 8-32 screws. G. macvalk wrote:

>I have an old N.E.P. cam style throttle lock from an old Virago I had >years ago. Is there anyway I can adapt it to work on the KLR? Its so >simple, but can't seem to get a fix on how to get it on and >functional. > > > >