--- In
DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, Tony Jones wrote:
>
> Sorry this is so long
>
>
> Background: Earlier this year, having not ridden the KLR at all
thru winter
> (though I turned it over every 2 weeks) I went on a 200 mile ride
upto Mt St
> Helens. It was running fine until my friend switched onto it. Ran
fine for
> him but when I tried to start it after he got off it was hard to
start and
> required a lot of gas whilst cranking. I put in Techron but it got
worse
> until a week later it would not start at all.
>
> In testing I hooked up my Motion Pro external fuel cannister
(gravity feed
> only, vaccum line to carb left open) and fuel started leaking into
the airbox.
> Still wouldn't start.
>
> Advice from the group was to tear down carb, some said I could
just remove
> choke, rotate carb and access needle. Others recommended a full
dissasembly.
> Some recommended a fuel filter but I noted in the FAQ that it says
to avoid
> one.
>
> I took the carb off ages ago then procrastination stuck. Yesterday
I took it
> apart. I went with fully dissasembling it. Cleaned it totally
inside and out.
> Put it backtogether. No change. Would not start at all, made one
tiny blip
> of "catching" but that was it in many many tries.
>
> When I initially dissasembled the carb:
> Found that the float level was about 13, adjusted to 17 by
bending tab.
>
> The small jet (with mulitple holes, pilot?) was dirty.
Cleaned it with
> small wire and carb cleaner.
>
> Adjusted the jets, from reading the manual, believe the one
that is
> flush with the body (main) should be all the way in and the
one that is
> recessed into the carb (pilot) I backed off two turns.
>
> Took pics before I removed but they were not the ones I
needed when I
> rehooked it together
and manual is useless. I believe
fuel line
> connects to hose on left side of carb, tank vacuum to
connector on top
> and vent line to the white plastic connector on the left side
of the
> carb. Is this correct?
>
> I drained the KLR gas tank. There is a coating of brown ?
surface rust?
> inside but no flaky pieces but the inside isn't silver/steel
colored,
> it is slightly brown.
>
> Anyways, after cranking I had fuel in the carb, draining it,
it seemed
> clear.
>
>
> Questions:
> 1) Did I do anything wrong is reassembly? Carb? Hoses?
I don't know, but it sounds like you did it right. Wait a
minute......maybe not. Your hose description sounds weird. The
vaccuum hose for your petcock is smaller, and should run from the
small male connection on the carbs fuel/air mix exit port to the
petcock.
The fuel line runs from the left side BOTTOM of the carb near the
float bowl, and to the petcock.
The vent line hooks to the left side of the carb TOP connection and
runs down to your drain bundle, with the other hoses.
>
> 2) If I hook up an external test tank, do I need to
crimp/block the
> unused vaccum line off the carb? Previous time I tried
it, fuel
> came out of the airbox.
I would plug it up while doing this method. That would cause more
air to flow into the motor and cause it to run lean. It still should
start, especially with the choke on, but I would plug it anyway.
>
> 3) Should I get a fuel filter. As I said, I didn't due to
the advice
> in the FAQ. If I should, can people recommend particular
types
> (pic/URL would be helpful).
I would. Stay away from the paper automotive filters and get a small
motorcycle specific filter with the sintered brass center in the cone
shaped clear plastic housing.
>
> 4) Instead of a filter, can I clean the tank? I'm hesitant
to use the
> Kreem stuff which lines the inside as I've heard bad
stories of it
> coming off, but perhaps since the rust is only surface
coloring,
> there is an alternative.
A light brown coating is normal for persons parking their bikes for
long periods of time. Don't worry about cleaning the tank and/or
coating it. I don't think your anywhere near needing to do that.
Just get the damn thing running again and RIDE it. And, next time
you park the thing, drain the tank and carb completely of fuel. It's
not that hard at all.
>
> 5) Is there any magic to reconnecting the choke cable to the
carb
> body. I just put it in and screwed it closed. Couldn't
get any
> wrench in there (is there a trick other than to connect it
before
> reattaching carb) so I just went with hand tight.
Yes, there's magic to it. Get a tool that will work on it. I use a
pair of needlenose pliers with a 45 degree bend on them, just to get
it loose and retightened firmly. For the rest of the removal and
replacing of it I use my hands. But DO NOT over tighten that plastic
housing. It will break.
>
> 6) If I remove carb again, is just rotating in place going to
get me
> what I need vs complete removal. Getting the carb clear
of the
> rubber boots on the airbox/engine is a PITA.
I know, removing it sucks. I can, and have rotated my carb to change
out main jets, and reset needle positions dozens of times. (going to
do it again as soon as I'm done posting this) It's easy, but make
sure you remove the choke before rotating it excessivly or you can
break the plastic nut.
MrMoose
A8 (Barbie and Ken special)