smoother klr

[Volker Traudt]

Damn! Today I wanted to change the spark plug on my 1980 KLR250 (BTW are there also A... classifications for the 250 like I see all you guys using on your big rigs?). NOne of my 5 different spark plug sockets fit (all walls to thick), so I took the seat and the tank off to get better access, didn't work. Frustrated, I put the tank back on, tightened the little 10mm hex with a tiny 6 inch wrench, ...AND STRIPPED THE DARN SCREW. Well, not so bad I thought, got my drills and my left-turn-stripped- screw-remover and started to work. I always use a small drill to get the center nice. It broke. Well, use the next drill and continued. Broke again, BUT THIS TIME WITH THE PIECE OF THE DRILL STUCK IN THE SCREW !!! What now? Any idea? Help! Volker

[Felicisimo E. Madarang]

I can't offer help for the stripped bolt, but for the sparkplug I use either the spark plug socket in the tool kit, or a regular 3/8-drive Craftsman 18mm spark plug socket.

[Russ]

The only thing I could think of would be to get a drill bit that is a harder metal than the one you have broken off in the bolt and go at it again. Boy, I hate it when things like that happen. It's fun to wrench, but what you are stuck with can be a frusterating job. You might want to call a machine shop and ask them for some advice. Those guys are great with that sort of thing. Once I called a machine shop with a similar issue. The guy said it was easier for him to fix it for me than it was to explain it over the phone. I took my bike down there and he fixed it right in the parking lot and did not charge me a dime!!! Good Luck, Russ

On Tuesday, September 30, 2003, at 07:42 PM, Volker Traudt wrote: > Damn! > Today I wanted to change the spark plug on my 1980 KLR250 (BTW are > there also A... classifications for the 250 like I see all you guys > using on your big rigs?). NOne of my 5 different spark plug sockets > fit (all walls to thick), so I took the seat and the tank off to get > better access, didn't work. > > Frustrated, I put the tank back on, tightened the little 10mm hex > with a tiny 6 inch wrench, ...AND STRIPPED THE DARN SCREW. > > Well, not so bad I thought, got my drills and my left-turn-stripped- > screw-remover and started to work. I always use a small drill to get > the center nice. It broke. > > Well, use the next drill and continued. Broke again, BUT THIS TIME > WITH THE PIECE OF THE DRILL STUCK IN THE SCREW !!! > > What now? Any idea? Help! > > Volker > > > > List sponsored by Dual Sport News at www.dualsportnews.com. List FAQ > courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html > Unsubscribe by sending a blank message to: > DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com . > > > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to > http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ > >

[Volker Traudt]

Wow, it just came to me: In the metric system, there is NO 18MM hex head. But I checked the parts list, and it says indeed: 18mm So I have to check my sockets again, may there is a 18mm !!! Volker -----Original Message----- From: sentto-488385-83354-1064977170-vtraudt=compuserve.com@....c om [mailto:sentto-488385-83354-1064977170-vtraudt=compuserve.com@... .yahoo.com] On Behalf Of Felicisimo E. Madarang Sent: Tuesday, September 30, 2003 10:59 PM To: dsn_klr650@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [DSN_klr650] Stripped bolt I can't offer help for the stripped bolt, but for the sparkplug I use either the spark plug socket in the tool kit, or a regular 3/8-drive Craftsman 18mm spark plug socket. List sponsored by Dual Sport News at www.dualsportnews.com. List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html Unsubscribe by sending a blank message to: DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com . Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

[Volker Traudt]

None of my sockets worked. I am surprised that you Craftsman fits in there. Or do you have a 650, and there is more room around the plug? Volker -----Original Message----- From: sentto-488385-83354-1064977170-vtraudt=compuserve.com@....c om [mailto:sentto-488385-83354-1064977170-vtraudt=compuserve.com@... .yahoo.com] On Behalf Of Felicisimo E. Madarang Sent: Tuesday, September 30, 2003 10:59 PM To: dsn_klr650@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [DSN_klr650] Stripped bolt I can't offer help for the stripped bolt, but for the sparkplug I use either the spark plug socket in the tool kit, or a regular 3/8-drive Craftsman 18mm spark plug socket. List sponsored by Dual Sport News at www.dualsportnews.com. List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html Unsubscribe by sending a blank message to: DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com . Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

[Rick McCauley]

The disc is on the underside of the carb, front side of the float bowl, and roughly center side to side. That's the best way I can describe it. I did not have to remove anything from the bike except the disc. I did not replace the disc. I don't see a need for it other than to keep you away from that screw. It is made of aluminum and is quite soft. If you want to put it back pinch a burr on it with pliers and gently tap it back in place. Or as you said, a dab of glue may even hold it. I will let you know how it goes with my friends bike. Rick A17 Maurice Cruz wrote: Rick, Thanks for sharing this very interesting tech tip. I ve been wanting to richen the idle circuits but have been put off by the hassle of removing the carb, drilling, etc. Just wanted to ask a few questions to clarify the procedure in my mind. Is the little disc you refer to on the right or left side of the carb? Did you have to remove the fuel tank? Finally, were you able to snap the original disc back in place, or did you need glue, or a new disc? Am surprised at the lack of response by the list to your post. Do please let me know how you fare doing the same mod to your buddy s bike. Cheers, Maurice Melbourne Message: 7 Date: Sun, 8 May 2005 16:27:36 -0700 (PDT) From: Rick McCauley Subject: Smoother KLR Friday evening after work I decided to prepare my A17 for our usual Saturday ride. I decided that with almost 1,300 miles on it that it was time to go to Mobil 1. I also wanted to open up the idle mixture screw. I was tired of the backfiring everytime I let off the throttle. By the way, you can adjust the screw with out moving the carb at all. I used a small very sharp awl, and a small hammer. The disc that covers the screw sticks out about .015 inches. Just lightly tap the point of the awl into the disk and it will pop out. I then made a small L shaper screw driver out of light gage tin. Use a mirror to see the location of the slot in the screw and you can bend the L shape to match the slot. I was able to open the screw about 1 and 1/4 turns in 4 steps. It took about 10 minutes total. My bike runs so much better and smoother than I would ever have expected. Down low (below 2,800 rpm) the bike doesn't buck and chug anymore. I can let the tach drop to 2,200 and it pulls with out complaint. I am going to open up my buddy's bike next weekend. I wanted to make sure it was a good thing before doing his. Rick A17 --------------------------------- Yahoo! Mail Stay connected, organized, and protected. Take the tour [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Wes Hopkins]

Hi Guys, I was trying to install my tank this morning as I've done several times before when I stripped one of the bolts holding the tank down to the frame. The bottom 1/4" of the bolt is gnashed and the bolt hole is pretty ugly too. Now of course, I need to repair it. Not being a pro at this, what would be the best method to repair or rethread it? - Tap it? (I've never done this before, but I'm not adverse to learning) - Drill out the hole and bolt straight through? Though I'm also not sure if I'd be able to get a tool through to hold the nut on the bottom side. I'm sure this is probably a simple task to most wrenchers but I'm not sure which way to go, and obviously don't want to wreck anything with the wrong approach. Any help you can provide is much appreciated! Cheers, Wes