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[hpjrt]

I've got the tall clearview windshield but at 6'3",32" inseam I find that there's still an annoying flutter,though not nearly the bashing I got from the stock shield or the Kawasaki tall one. What I want to try is to clamp the tall Kawi screen to the clearview thus adding 3 to 4" to the height. If this gets rid of the flutter then I want to cut the top off the Kawi screen and bolt it to the clearview using rubber backed stainless washers and stainless bolts. The bend at the top of both screens are close to identical so chances are it should work without looking too cheezy. My big problem is cutting the top off the shield. Does anyone have any tips on how the best way to get a clean cut on curved acrylic?

[George Basinet]

When I cut down the shield on my Gold Wing I first scribed it with a sharp tool. Apply masking tape to prevent scratching the plastic. Then I cut it with a fine tooth jig saw. Use sandpaper to polish smooth the cut edge to remove any fissures or cracks. This will prevent it from cracking later on. You can also carefully use the flame from a propane torch which looks nicer. Practice on the piece you cut off. George Escondido, CA

----- Original Message ----- From: "hpjrt" To: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Sunday, April 04, 2004 3:09 PM Subject: [DSN_klr650] adding extention to clearview windshield > I've got the tall clearview windshield but at 6'3",32" inseam I > find that there's still an annoying flutter,though not nearly the > bashing I got from the stock shield or the Kawasaki tall one. What I > want to try is to clamp the tall Kawi screen to the clearview thus > adding 3 to 4" to the height. If this gets rid of the flutter then I > want to cut the top off the Kawi screen and bolt it to the clearview > using rubber backed stainless washers and stainless bolts. The bend > at the top of both screens are close to identical so chances are it > should work without looking too cheezy. My big problem is cutting > the top off the shield. Does anyone have any tips on how the best > way to get a clean cut on curved acrylic? > > > > > > > List sponsored by Dual Sport News at www.dualsportnews.com. List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html > Unsubscribe by sending a blank message to: > DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com . > > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > >

[Mark St.Hilaire, Sr]

> When I cut down the shield on my Gold Wing I first scribed it with a sharp > tool. Apply masking tape to prevent scratching the plastic. Then I cut

it

> with a fine tooth jig saw. Use sandpaper to polish smooth the cut edge

to

> remove any fissures or cracks. This will prevent it from cracking later

on.

> You can also carefully use the flame from a propane torch which looks

nicer.

> Practice on the piece you cut off.

George posted just about exactly what I was going to post. I did the same thing on the '86 Aspencade that we had so that I could look over the top of the shield, and not through it. This is also pretty much the same procedure that you'd use to cut a sheet of oak or birch veneer plywood. Use the very fine tooth jig saw blade at a slow speed, pausing if necessary. You want to cut, not melt the acrylic. Mark --------------------------------------- KLR650 Motorcycle Website: http://klr6500.tripod.com/

[James L. Miller Jr.]

http://home.earthlink.net/~millerized/shield.jpg I'm 5'8" and change and this set-up puts it just at the top of my helmet. The only annoying thing, other than high speed flutter of the shield itself, was the fact that I never got any anti-fogging airflow during the cold rides in. I'd have to stand on the pegs to clear the visor. You want to get rid of 90% of the wind noise, remove the whole thing completely. Stock, Clearview, et-al. Less noise than you'd imagine as well as less buffeting. Plexi/acrylic can be cut several ways. Using a sharp knife (carefully), using a hot dull one, or several varieties of powered saws. Putting a circular saw blade on backwards does well, but for this application, I'd suggest a sabre saw/jig saw. Fine tooth blade, slow enough speed to not melt the plastic, but enough to cut through. A tip called "flame polishing" after you've sanded it to final profile. Take a torch (propane) and lightly run it across the edge til it gloss's over. Works great on Plexiglas or Acrylite. millerized

--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "hpjrt" wrote: > I've got the tall clearview windshield but at 6'3",32" inseam I > find that there's still an annoying flutter,though not nearly the > bashing I got from the stock shield or the Kawasaki tall one. What I > want to try is to clamp the tall Kawi screen to the clearview thus > adding 3 to 4" to the height. If this gets rid of the flutter then I > want to cut the top off the Kawi screen and bolt it to the clearview > using rubber backed stainless washers and stainless bolts. The bend > at the top of both screens are close to identical so chances are it > should work without looking too cheezy. My big problem is cutting > the top off the shield. Does anyone have any tips on how the best > way to get a clean cut on curved acrylic?

[James L. Miller Jr.]

Damn, uh, I mean Dern! You guys are fast. I read it, replied and now there are 3 replies with essentially the same info. Must be correct, huh? millerized (running a bit behind the curve today) --- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "James L. Miller Jr." wrote:

> http://home.earthlink.net/~millerized/shield.jpg > I'm 5'8" and change and this set-up puts it just at the top of my > helmet. The only annoying thing, other than high speed flutter of > the shield itself, was the fact that I never got any anti-fogging > airflow during the cold rides in. I'd have to stand on the pegs

to

> clear the visor. > You want to get rid of 90% of the wind noise, remove the whole > thing completely. Stock, Clearview, et-al. Less noise than you'd > imagine as well as less buffeting. > > Plexi/acrylic can be cut several ways. Using a sharp knife > (carefully), using a hot dull one, or several varieties of powered > saws. Putting a circular saw blade on backwards does well, but

for

> this application, I'd suggest a sabre saw/jig saw. Fine tooth > blade, slow enough speed to not melt the plastic, but enough to

cut

> through. A tip called "flame polishing" after you've sanded it to > final profile. Take a torch (propane) and lightly run it across

the

> edge til it gloss's over. Works great on Plexiglas or Acrylite. > > millerized > > > > --- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "hpjrt" wrote: > > I've got the tall clearview windshield but at 6'3",32" inseam

I

> > find that there's still an annoying flutter,though not nearly

the

> > bashing I got from the stock shield or the Kawasaki tall one.

What

> I > > want to try is to clamp the tall Kawi screen to the clearview

thus

> > adding 3 to 4" to the height. If this gets rid of the flutter

then

> I > > want to cut the top off the Kawi screen and bolt it to the > clearview > > using rubber backed stainless washers and stainless bolts. The > bend > > at the top of both screens are close to identical so chances are > it > > should work without looking too cheezy. My big problem is

cutting

> > the top off the shield. Does anyone have any tips on how the

best

> > way to get a clean cut on curved acrylic?

[Greg Roberts]

----- Original Message ----- From: "hpjrt" > I've got the tall clearview windshield but at 6'3",32" inseam I > find that there's still an annoying flutter,though not nearly the > bashing I got from the stock shield or the Kawasaki tall one. What I > want to try is to clamp the tall Kawi screen to the clearview thus > adding 3 to 4" to the height. If this gets rid of the flutter then I > want to cut the top off the Kawi screen and bolt it to the clearview > using rubber backed stainless washers and stainless bolts. The bend > at the top of both screens are close to identical so chances are it > should work without looking too cheezy. My big problem is cutting > the top off the shield. Does anyone have any tips on how the best > way to get a clean cut on curved acrylic? First put masking tape on the windshield in the area of interest. The carefully sketch out the cut you want to make. Use a fine blade in a jig saw, and run the saw slowly so that the material doesn't try and melt behind you. Once you've made the cut use sandpaper and a sanding block to smooth off the cut edge, and gently round it. after you are through with the cutting and sanding you can remove the masking tape and clean the windshield. Some folks take a butane torch to the cut edge to make it look smoother, but I don't think this is needed, and if you get the windscreen too hot you will mess it up. HTH Greg Roberts Wadley, AL

[Roy]

I have cut windscreens with a Dremel rotary tool with a thin cutting disk installed. After cutting the edge will have to be smoothed off with a file or sander and polished. Works for mme. Roy Cope

--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "hpjrt" wrote: > I've got the tall clearview windshield but at 6'3",32" inseam I > find that there's still an annoying flutter,though not nearly the > bashing I got from the stock shield or the Kawasaki tall one. What I > want to try is to clamp the tall Kawi screen to the clearview thus > adding 3 to 4" to the height. If this gets rid of the flutter then I > want to cut the top off the Kawi screen and bolt it to the clearview > using rubber backed stainless washers and stainless bolts. The bend > at the top of both screens are close to identical so chances are it > should work without looking too cheezy. My big problem is cutting > the top off the shield. Does anyone have any tips on how the best > way to get a clean cut on curved acrylic?

[James L. Miller Jr.]

Yo! Gotsta hab it, mon! Maybe in place of turnsignals? millerized --- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "Stuart Mumford" wrote:

> Selling my stock Muffler on Ebay... > item # 2471634101 > > Also, you may need item# 4103330962 > > Thanks > CA Stu