aftermarket headlight bulbs - ???

[jlawburg@seidata.com]

Just changed the oil in my A15. Changed the filter also. According to the manual it should take 2.6 quarts. I've put in only 2.2 or 2.3 quarts and it comes up over the window with the bike held level. Yes, I rode 15 miles right before draining it, plenty warm. I let it drain for over 10 minutes, not even a drip left. Let it idle for 5 minutes and rode up the drive to make sure oil worked up to the filter. Can anyone help with this enigma?? Don't want to ride with to much or to little oil in it. When the dealer did the first service, it was also over the window. Should I put the full amount in or drain some?? Thanks...........Jim L. Ride Safe

[Kurt Simpson (Editor Dual Sport News)]

Can anyone help with this enigma?? Don't want to ride with to much or to little oil in it. ___________ you're doing great...pour it all in and next time you see a bit of space in the sight glass add the same 8 ounces again...welcome to the infamous KLR sight glass controversy. Your results were the same as mine time and time again... Kurt

[D.J. Rogers]

Just do what the manual says. There is a lot of questions about whether or not the sight glass is in the right place. The way I see it, Kawi has been putting it in the same position for roughly 15 years. If it was wrong, you'd think they would've changed it by now! I put 2.5 litres in mine (I'm from Canada) and it goes well over the top of the glass. It concerned me the first time, then I realized that I have a warranty and if the seals go or motor blows because I followed their directions, then I guess I get a brand new motor. Cheers, D. GBG eh14

[drainr@TBEUK.COM]

Attachments :(Should I put the full amount in or drain some?? (Thanks...........Jim L. (Ride Safe Jim.....I normally run the engine for a second or two once the oil has drained. I hate doing it, but it releases about another cupfull. Make sure the filler cap is on. The pressure will spray about 6 ft. Richard D '98KLR 650c3 37k ********************************************************************** This e-mail and the information it contains may be privileged and/or confidential . It is for the intended addressee(s) only. The unauthorised use, disclosure or copying of this e-mail, or any information it contains is prohibited and could, in certain circumstances, be a criminal offence. If you are not an intended recipient, please notify postmaster@... immediat ely. Any views expressed in this message are those of the individual sender, except where the sender specifically states them to be the views of Tokai Bank Europe plc. Tokai Bank Europe plc 1 Exchange Square London EC2A 2JL Switchboard: 020 7638 6030 This footnote also confirms that this email message has been swept by MIMEsweeper for the presence of computer viruses. www.mimesweeper.com **********************************************************************

[Jim Hyman]

Richard, Even with 37K on your KLR, I'm against your method of trying to get every last bit of oil out. While the engine/tranny ball bearings might not object to 1 or 2 seconds with no oil pressure/splash, the camshafts are plain bearings, meaning that they cams ride on a thin film of PRESSURIZED oil. At 1200 rmp (crank speed) the cams are rotating at 600 rpm, or 10 times per second. While there is a residual oil coating on the cam bearings, there's no oil pressure. Even if you let the oil drain out overnight, there will still be residual oil clinging to the engine's internal surfaces. I think a much better solution would be to refill with 2-1/2 quarts of oil, ride for 30 minutes to fully dilute the old engine oil, then drain and replace the oil & filter. BTW, you can drain about 4 more ounces of old motor oil if you remove the drain plug at the bottom of the vertical oil channel near the waterpump on the lower right front of the engine. Don't lose the small sealing 0-ring. The proper way to check the oil level is to run your engine for 5 minutes after you have replaced the oil. Using the sight glass as a visual check without first running the engine leads to an improper reading. Filling up to the top of the oil window will leave you with an actual level near the bottom of the window AFTER you have run the engine. If you check the oil level within 15 minutes after shutting off the motor, the visual oil level will be about 1/8" lower than if you waited for several hours before checking the oil level. I've heard of mechanics using kerosene to flush out old oil. I can't vouch for the validity or safety of this approach. I don't know if they just idle the engine for a bit, or if they actually drive around before they replace the oil. If you're replacing your oil every 1,2 or 3000 miles, it's overkill to go to such extremes when changing oil. Different strokes for different folks... whatever works for you. Professor A9 Federal Way, WA. [USA] ++++++++++++++++++++++++ --- drainr@T... wrote:

>> (Should I put the full amount in or drain some?? >> (Thanks...........Jim L. >> (Ride Safe > > Jim.....I normally run the engine for a second or two > once the oil has drained. > I hate doing it, but it releases about another cupfull. > Make sure the filler cap is on. The pressure will spray > about 6 ft. > > Richard D > '98KLR 650c3 37k

[Scherer, Michael]

Holy smokes. You guys are serious about changing the oil. What is the full procedure for putting gas in the bike. :^) I'm only kidding. There is some good advice in here. Smartass Biker Mike -----Original Message----- From: Jim Hyman [mailto:professor.jim@...] Sent: Friday, November 03, 2000 5:28 AM To: DSN_klr650@egroups.com Subject: Re:[DSN_klr650] confused.........help!!!! Richard, Even with 37K on your KLR, I'm against your method of trying to get every last bit of oil out. While the engine/tranny ball bearings might not object to 1 or 2 seconds with no oil pressure/splash, the camshafts are plain bearings, meaning that they cams ride on a thin film of PRESSURIZED oil. At 1200 rmp (crank speed) the cams are rotating at 600 rpm, or 10 times per second. While there is a residual oil coating on the cam bearings, there's no oil pressure. Even if you let the oil drain out overnight, there will still be residual oil clinging to the engine's internal surfaces. I think a much better solution would be to refill with 2-1/2 quarts of oil, ride for 30 minutes to fully dilute the old engine oil, then drain and replace the oil & filter. BTW, you can drain about 4 more ounces of old motor oil if you remove the drain plug at the bottom of the vertical oil channel near the waterpump on the lower right front of the engine. Don't lose the small sealing 0-ring. The proper way to check the oil level is to run your engine for 5 minutes after you have replaced the oil. Using the sight glass as a visual check without first running the engine leads to an improper reading. Filling up to the top of the oil window will leave you with an actual level near the bottom of the window AFTER you have run the engine. If you check the oil level within 15 minutes after shutting off the motor, the visual oil level will be about 1/8" lower than if you waited for several hours before checking the oil level. I've heard of mechanics using kerosene to flush out old oil. I can't vouch for the validity or safety of this approach. I don't know if they just idle the engine for a bit, or if they actually drive around before they replace the oil. If you're replacing your oil every 1,2 or 3000 miles, it's overkill to go to such extremes when changing oil. Different strokes for different folks... whatever works for you. Professor A9 Federal Way, WA. [USA] ++++++++++++++++++++++++ --- drainr@T... wrote:

>> (Should I put the full amount in or drain some?? >> (Thanks...........Jim L. >> (Ride Safe > > Jim.....I normally run the engine for a second or two > once the oil has drained. > I hate doing it, but it releases about another cupfull. > Make sure the filler cap is on. The pressure will spray > about 6 ft. > > Richard D > '98KLR 650c3 37k

Visit the KLR650 archives at http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=klr650 Support Dual Sport News... dsneditor@... Let's keep this list SPAM free! Visit our site at http://www.egroups.com/group/DSN_klr650 To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@egroups.com

[k650dsn@aol.com]

I agree. I'm amazed they find time to ride! Maybe that's my problem with the Darien Jacket... I don't have the complete manual for properly using it. Gino (being a smart ass also.. but what else new?) --- In DSN_klr650@egroups.com, "Scherer, Michael" wrote:

> Holy smokes. You guys are serious about changing the oil. What is

the full

> procedure for putting gas in the bike. :^) > > I'm only kidding. There is some good advice in here. > > Smartass Biker Mike > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Jim Hyman [mailto:professor.jim@w...] > Sent: Friday, November 03, 2000 5:28 AM > To: DSN_klr650@egroups.com > Subject: Re:[DSN_klr650] confused.........help!!!! > > > Richard, > > Even with 37K on your KLR, I'm against your method of trying > to get every last bit of oil out. While the engine/tranny > ball bearings might not object to 1 or 2 seconds with no oil > pressure/splash, the camshafts are plain bearings, meaning > that they cams ride on a thin film of PRESSURIZED oil. At > 1200 rmp (crank speed) the cams are rotating at 600 rpm, or > 10 times per second. While there is a residual oil coating > on the cam bearings, there's no oil pressure. > > Even if you let the oil drain out overnight, there will still > be residual oil clinging to the engine's internal surfaces. > > I think a much better solution would be to refill with 2-1/2 > quarts of oil, ride for 30 minutes to fully dilute the old > engine oil, then drain and replace the oil & filter. > > BTW, you can drain about 4 more ounces of old motor oil if > you remove the drain plug at the bottom of the vertical oil > channel near the waterpump on the lower right front of the > engine. Don't lose the small sealing 0-ring. > > The proper way to check the oil level is to run your engine > for 5 minutes after you have replaced the oil. Using the > sight glass as a visual check without first running the engine > leads to an improper reading. Filling up to the top of the > oil window will leave you with an actual level near the bottom > of the window AFTER you have run the engine. If you check the > oil level within 15 minutes after shutting off the motor, the > visual oil level will be about 1/8" lower than if you waited > for several hours before checking the oil level. > > I've heard of mechanics using kerosene to flush out old oil. > I can't vouch for the validity or safety of this approach. > I don't know if they just idle the engine for a bit, or if > they actually drive around before they replace the oil. > > If you're replacing your oil every 1,2 or 3000 miles, it's > overkill to go to such extremes when changing oil. > > Different strokes for different folks... whatever works for you. > > Professor A9 Federal Way, WA. [USA] > > ++++++++++++++++++++++++ > --- drainr@T... wrote: > > >> (Should I put the full amount in or drain some?? > >> (Thanks...........Jim L. > >> (Ride Safe > > > > Jim.....I normally run the engine for a second or two > > once the oil has drained. > > I hate doing it, but it releases about another cupfull. > > Make sure the filler cap is on. The pressure will spray > > about 6 ft. > > > > Richard D > > '98KLR 650c3 37k > > > > Visit the KLR650 archives at > http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=klr650 > Support Dual Sport News... dsneditor@s... > Let's keep this list SPAM free! > > Visit our site at http://www.egroups.com/group/DSN_klr650 > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: > DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@egroups.com

[Nassif, Joe]

> Gino stated; > ......! Maybe that's my problem > with the Darien Jacket... I don't have the complete manual for > properly using it. >

You mean you didn't the the 53 page manual and quick ref. wallet card for your 'Stich? You better give Andy a call and have him send you the complete reference set.....(;^) Joe Nassif Santa Fe, NM .. (where it's snowing as we speak, and my second Darien won't be in for another 2 or 3 weeks... A13

[k650dsn@aol.com]

Doh! That explains it. Silly me. I thought you just put it on like.. a jacket. Duh. Gino

--- In DSN_klr650@egroups.com, "Nassif, Joe" wrote: > You mean you didn't the the 53 page manual and quick ref. wallet card for > your 'Stich? > > You better give Andy a call and have him send you the complete reference > set.....(;^)

[Sanders, Eric]

Mike, Fill up procedure: 1) Remember to only fill up in the morning when the petrol is cool and dense. 2) Reset petcock to "Main" setting. 3) Wipe caked mud off of filler cap. 4) open tank cap. 5) Wipe under cap, base opening, and O-ring with towel. 6) Insert high octane filler nozzle into tank opening gently, holding towel underneath to prevent dripping onto painted tank surfaces. 7) Hold towel over the filling activities to prevent atmospheric moisture from contaminating the tank. 9) Fill until fuel level nearly reaches the filler neck while parked on the sidestand. Get greedy here, and you may cause problems (see manual). 10) Firmly close cap and listen for positive latching action. Turn key to lock and remove. 11) Reset odometer 12) Pay, eyeball the oil window, ride! Eric A13L "Beef" Colorado Springs -----Original Message----- From: Scherer, Michael [mailto:MScherer@...] Sent: Friday, November 03, 2000 9:20 AM To: DSN_klr650@egroups.com Subject: RE: [DSN_klr650] confused.........help!!!! Holy smokes. You guys are serious about changing the oil. What is the full procedure for putting gas in the bike. :^) I'm only kidding. There is some good advice in here. Smartass Biker Mike -----Original Message----- From: Jim Hyman [mailto:professor.jim@...] Sent: Friday, November 03, 2000 5:28 AM To: DSN_klr650@egroups.com Subject: Re:[DSN_klr650] confused.........help!!!! Richard, Even with 37K on your KLR, I'm against your method of trying to get every last bit of oil out. While the engine/tranny ball bearings might not object to 1 or 2 seconds with no oil pressure/splash, the camshafts are plain bearings, meaning that they cams ride on a thin film of PRESSURIZED oil. At 1200 rmp (crank speed) the cams are rotating at 600 rpm, or 10 times per second. While there is a residual oil coating on the cam bearings, there's no oil pressure. Even if you let the oil drain out overnight, there will still be residual oil clinging to the engine's internal surfaces. I think a much better solution would be to refill with 2-1/2 quarts of oil, ride for 30 minutes to fully dilute the old engine oil, then drain and replace the oil & filter. BTW, you can drain about 4 more ounces of old motor oil if you remove the drain plug at the bottom of the vertical oil channel near the waterpump on the lower right front of the engine. Don't lose the small sealing 0-ring. The proper way to check the oil level is to run your engine for 5 minutes after you have replaced the oil. Using the sight glass as a visual check without first running the engine leads to an improper reading. Filling up to the top of the oil window will leave you with an actual level near the bottom of the window AFTER you have run the engine. If you check the oil level within 15 minutes after shutting off the motor, the visual oil level will be about 1/8" lower than if you waited for several hours before checking the oil level. I've heard of mechanics using kerosene to flush out old oil. I can't vouch for the validity or safety of this approach. I don't know if they just idle the engine for a bit, or if they actually drive around before they replace the oil. If you're replacing your oil every 1,2 or 3000 miles, it's overkill to go to such extremes when changing oil. Different strokes for different folks... whatever works for you. Professor A9 Federal Way, WA. [USA] ++++++++++++++++++++++++ --- drainr@T... wrote:

>> (Should I put the full amount in or drain some?? >> (Thanks...........Jim L. >> (Ride Safe > > Jim.....I normally run the engine for a second or two > once the oil has drained. > I hate doing it, but it releases about another cupfull. > Make sure the filler cap is on. The pressure will spray > about 6 ft. > > Richard D > '98KLR 650c3 37k

Visit the KLR650 archives at http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=klr650 Support Dual Sport News... dsneditor@... Let's keep this list SPAM free! Visit our site at http://www.egroups.com/group/DSN_klr650 To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@egroups.com Visit the KLR650 archives at http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=klr650 Support Dual Sport News... dsneditor@... Let's keep this list SPAM free! Visit our site at http://www.egroups.com/group/DSN_klr650 To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@egroups.com