arne does givi!

[Bogdan Swider]

The collectives pool of electrical knowledge is deep. (sounds dangerous) The Professor is a welcome recent veteran addition and Jazz is an emerging rookie sensation. Then there's me and I don't even have the excuse of youth. After twice falling off, shattering and leaving me stranded my stock kill me switch is long circumvented and gone. However, I occasionally miss this resource. The kid at the counter said a Yamaha OEM, button, spring type was the way to go. Some kind of serious dirt thing? Looking at the diagram (14-8 supplement manual) seems clear that the engine is shut off by connecting BK/W, hot with BK/Y, ground. Can't figure how connecting not breaking shuts something off...oh well. Put the Yamaha switch to the multimeter, sure nuff, when the button is pressed it opens not closes the circuit. Guess I'm not the brightest light in the LED display. So....I need to break BK/W & BK/Y and connect one switch wire to each, right? Besides not really understanding how this works, am I missing something? Also this type of switch only shuts the engine off for a second as it instantly springs closed. Guess this means if the bike is in motion the engine will kick over and restart? I have tubing but it doesn't work optimally when you break into a wire with only one wire. Never saw any T-type shrink tubing. Any ideas? All input will be appreciated. Bogdan

[Jim Hyman]

Attachments :

Bogdan, Your observations are right on the money. You clearly know your (electrical) limitations & that's good! At the risk of boring you & others, I'll cover a few basics. Switches come in many configurations: momentary - push to complete or break a connection normally closed (NC) - switch completes a circuit until pressed normally open (NO) - switch breaks a connection until pressed single pole, single throw (SPST) - switch handles 1 wire connection: on or off single pole, double throw (SPDT) - switch handles 1 wire connection: controls power to 2 possible circuits double pole, double throw (DPDT) - switch handles 2 separate circuits. This setup is like 2 SPDT switches that are tied together. In the "old" days of magneto ignitions (without CDI), a switch was used to "short" the low voltage side of the ignition system to "ground" to prevent ignition spark. The KLR kill switch is a modified DPDT (with center run position). In the OFF position, the BK/Y (ground wire) is connected to the BK/W wire, as you stated. Without knowing the CDI unit s internals, it appears that grounding the BK/W going to the CDI unit is what SAFELY stops ignition spark. This OFF position simultaneously disconnects 12 volt power (from the BROWN wire) going to the STARTER button. I m assuming that the highly esteemed Kawi engineers did this to protect us from ourselves (duh, why is my engine cranking over, but it won t start?). I would NOT use a momentary type switch to kill the engine. Just be sure to buy a good quality switch that will stand up to the KLR s good vibrations. Don t try to 2nd guess the engineers, if you decide to break the ignition circuit somewhere else to kill the ignition, you may fry the (expensive) CDI unit when 12 volt power is left on. This shouldn t be a problem if you use the BK/Y & BK/W wires at the handlebar (& i'm will to bet YOUR CDI unit that i'm right). See the enclosed attachment for using heat shrink tubing with multiple wires. Additional notes on heat-shrink tubing: Tubing comes in many sizes (diameter) & colors. I use tubing sized no more than 50% larger than the wires. Tubing is meant to shrink UP TO 50%. Don t try to shrink the tubing more than this. Don t use excessive heat to shrink the tubing super tight, this will cause the tubing to split. Always solder electrical connections to ensure a secure electrical connection & prevent future corrosion. Soldering a connection is never done ONLY to ensure a positive physical connection. I solder all connections, even wires with crimp connections. WalMart sells a digital multi-meter that includes a 0-10 amp d.c. scale for $18 (USD). Professor A9 Federal Way, Wa. [USA] ps: flattery will get you everywhere. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Bogdan Swider wrote: [snip] After twice falling off, shattering and leaving me stranded my stock kill me switch is long circumvented and gone. However, I occasionally miss this resource. The kid at the counter said a Yamaha OEM, button, spring type was the way to go. Some kind of serious dirt thing? Looking at the diagram (14-8 supplement manual) seems clear that the engine is shut off by connecting BK/W, hot with BK/Y, ground. Can't figure how connecting not breaking shuts something off... oh well. Put the Yamaha switch to the multimeter, sure nuff, when the button is pressed it opens not closes the circuit. Guess I'm not the brightest light in the LED display. So....I need to break BK/W & BK/Y and connect one switch wire to each, right? Besides not really understanding how this works, am I missing something? Also this type of switch only shuts the engine off for a second as it instantly springs closed. Guess this means if the bike is in motion the engine will kick over and restart? I have tubing but it doesn't work optimally when you break into a wire with only one wire. Never saw any T-type shrink tubing. Any ideas? All input will be appreciated. Bogdan

[Bogdan Swider]

> At the risk of boring you & others, I'll cover a few basics. Switches > come in many configurations: >

Far from boring, Professor. Printed it out for my actual file. Thanks a lot. Why wouldn't you use a momentary switch to kill the engine? Why did Yamaha make and sell this thing? BTW You coming to Moab? Bogdan

[Arne Larsen]

From: Eric Jasniewicz Subject: Arne does Givi!

> Woohooooooooooo.....!! > > Picked up my new Mac-D rack today at the airport. > Couldn't have been an easier install, eveyrthing fit just so, took about a > minute. This sucker is rock solid! I was able to pick up the bike from

the

> rack with and without both Givi E36's on the rack, and a Givi E45 on the > tail rack. Solid! > Thanks Arne!

Thank you Eric! And PLEASE take some pictures for me. I lost everything on the Great Computer Hard-drive Crash of 2000. Arne