Wilsons Sandbox

>From: randell s Kegg
>To: mg-tabc@egroups.com
>Subject: [mg-tabc] MG T-Series Distributors
>Date: Tue, 2 May 2000 11:09:39 -0400
>
>To All :
> I ran across a problem the other day and would like to get your
>opinions. I was overhauling a distributor on a friend's TD; replacing the
>bushings, toggles, thrust washers, etc. The bushings had become so worn
>that the car would no longer run reliably. There were two aspects to the
>overhaul that I could use some help with.
>
>1. The body of the distributor is made up of two parts; an alloy bowl,
>and a steel cylinder . I assume that these two parts were mated at the
>time of manufacture by casting the alloy bowl around the cylinder. Is
>this correct? I bring this up because, in this case, the bowl is slightly
>loose on the cylinder,(the part that holds the bushings). It rocks a
>little bit. Is there a way to eliminate this looseness? SInce the point
>plate is screwed to the bowl, and the distributor cam is part of the
>shaft, too much play in this area will affect the consistency of the
>point gap. I am afraid to try to peen the two parts for fear of cracking
>the bowl. Epoxy? What do you think?
>
>2. In this particular car, the owner had a problem years ago, where the
>pin that secures the distributor drive gear fell out into the oil pan.
>This caused the drive gear to detach and left him by the side of the
>road. At that time, a local mechanic fixed the problem by fishing out
>the gear with a magnet and reattaching it to the shaft with a split
>rolled pin, (hollow in the middle). He also safety wired the pin, so that
>it could not fall out. For many years, this arrangement has worked well.
> Back to the present:
> When our replacement parts arrived for the distributor, one of them was
>a new pin. It is solid and twice as long as it needs to be. It also does
>not fit super tightly. Not having had a T distributor apart before this
>one, I don't know how to fit this new pin. Do I cut it off? Do I peen
>over the ends a bit so that it can't fall out? I don't know. The split
>rolled pin with the safety wire seems to be an improvement to me. What do
>you think? Has anyone else had the problem of the pin removing itself
>from the shaft?
>Thanks for your help. I am looking forward to hearing from you.........
>
>Randy Kegg
>
>
>

>Hi Randy,

>To All :
> I ran across a problem the other day and would like to get your
>opinions. I was overhauling a distributor on a friend's TD; replacing the
>bushings, toggles, thrust washers, etc. The bushings had become so worn
>that the car would no longer run reliably. There were two aspects to the
>overhaul that I could use some help with.
>
>1. The body of the distributor is made up of two parts; an alloy bowl,
>and a steel cylinder . I assume that these two parts were mated at the
>time of manufacture by casting the alloy bowl around the cylinder. Is
>this correct? I bring this up because, in this case, the bowl is slightly
>loose on the cylinder,(the part that holds the bushings). It rocks a
>little bit. Is there a way to eliminate this looseness? SInce the point
>plate is screwed to the bowl, and the distributor cam is part of the
>shaft, too much play in this area will affect the consistency of the
>point gap. I am afraid to try to peen the two parts for fear of cracking
>the bowl. Epoxy? What do you think?
>
>2. In this particular car, the owner had a problem years ago, where the
>pin that secures the distributor drive gear fell out into the oil pan.
>This caused the drive gear to detach and left him by the side of the
>road. At that time, a local mechanic fixed the problem by fishing out
>the gear with a magnet and reattaching it to the shaft with a split
>rolled pin, (hollow in the middle). He also safety wired the pin, so that
>it could not fall out. For many years, this arrangement has worked well.
> Back to the present:
> When our replacement parts arrived for the distributor, one of
> them was
>a new pin. It is solid and twice as long as it needs to be. It also does
>not fit super tightly. Not having had a T distributor apart before this
>one, I don't know how to fit this new pin. Do I cut it off? Do I peen
>over the ends a bit so that it can't fall out? I don't know. The split
>rolled pin with the safety wire seems to be an improvement to me. What do
>you think? Has anyone else had the problem of the pin removing itself
>from the shaft?
>Thanks for your help. I am looking forward to hearing from you.........
>
>Randy Kegg
>

>To All :
> I ran across a problem the other day and would like to get your
>opinions. I was overhauling a distributor on a friend's TD; replacing the
>bushings, toggles, thrust washers, etc. The bushings had become so worn
>that the car would no longer run reliably. There were two aspects to the
>overhaul that I could use some help with.
>
>1. The body of the distributor is made up of two parts; an alloy bowl,
>and a steel cylinder . I assume that these two parts were mated at the
>time of manufacture by casting the alloy bowl around the cylinder. Is
>this correct? I bring this up because, in this case, the bowl is slightly
>loose on the cylinder,(the part that holds the bushings). It rocks a
>little bit. Is there a way to eliminate this looseness? SInce the point
>plate is screwed to the bowl, and the distributor cam is part of the
>shaft, too much play in this area will affect the consistency of the
>point gap. I am afraid to try to peen the two parts for fear of cracking
>the bowl. Epoxy? What do you think?
>
>2. In this particular car, the owner had a problem years ago, where the
>pin that secures the distributor drive gear fell out into the oil pan.
>This caused the drive gear to detach and left him by the side of the
>road. At that time, a local mechanic fixed the problem by fishing out
>the gear with a magnet and reattaching it to the shaft with a split
>rolled pin, (hollow in the middle). He also safety wired the pin, so that
>it could not fall out. For many years, this arrangement has worked well.
> Back to the present:
> When our replacement parts arrived for the distributor, one of them was
>a new pin. It is solid and twice as long as it needs to be. It also does
>not fit super tightly. Not having had a T distributor apart before this
>one, I don't know how to fit this new pin. Do I cut it off? Do I peen
>over the ends a bit so that it can't fall out? I don't know. The split
>rolled pin with the safety wire seems to be an improvement to me. What do
>you think? Has anyone else had the problem of the pin removing itself
>from the shaft?
>Thanks for your help. I am looking forward to hearing from you.........
>
>Randy Kegg
>
>
>

>
> Randy
> I will try to address the first part of your question, if the top is
> loose from the shaft, it needs to be secured together, to get
> the timing stable. I am not sure where you are, but there is a
> person in the states, Jim Taylor, from Oklahama, that pins
> the two parts together, goes a good job, I had him do one of
> mine
> Dean
> -----Original Message-----
> From: randell s Kegg
> To: mg-tabc@egroups.com
> Date: Tuesday, May 02, 2000 10:27 AM
> Subject: [mg-tabc] MG T-Series Distributors
>
> >To All :
> > I ran across a problem the other day and would like to get your
> >opinions. I was overhauling a distributor on a friend's TD; replacing the
> >bushings, toggles, thrust washers, etc. The bushings had become so worn
> >that the car would no longer run reliably. There were two aspects to the
> >overhaul that I could use some help with.
> >
> >1. The body of the distributor is made up of two parts; an alloy bowl,
> >and a steel cylinder . I assume that these two parts were mated at the
> >time of manufacture by casting the alloy bowl around the cylinder. Is
> >this correct? I bring this up because, in this case, the bowl is slightly
> >loose on the cylinder,(the part that holds the bushings). It rocks a
> >little bit. Is there a way to eliminate this looseness? SInce the point
> >plate is screwed to the bowl, and the distributor cam is part of the
> >shaft, too much play in this area will affect the consistency of the
> >point gap. I am afraid to try to peen the two parts for fear of cracking
> >the bowl. Epoxy? What do you think?
> >
> >2. In this particular car, the owner had a problem years ago, where the
> >pin that secures the distributor drive gear fell out into the oil pan.
> >This caused the drive gear to detach and left him by the side of the
> >road. At that time, a local mechanic fixed the problem by fishing out
> >the gear with a magnet and reattaching it to the shaft with a split
> >rolled pin, (hollow in the middle). He also safety wired the pin, so that
> >it could not fall out. For many years, this arrangement has worked well.
> > Back to the present:
> > When our replacement parts arrived for the distributor, one of them was
> >a new pin. It is solid and twice as long as it needs to be. It also does
> >not fit super tightly. Not having had a T distributor apart before this
> >one, I don't know how to fit this new pin. Do I cut it off? Do I peen
> >over the ends a bit so that it can't fall out? I don't know. The split
> >rolled pin with the safety wire seems to be an improvement to me. What do
> >you think? Has anyone else had the problem of the pin removing itself
> >from the shaft?
> >Thanks for your help. I am looking forward to hearing from you.........
> >
> >Randy Kegg
> >
> >
> >

>The standard distributor from any 'A' series BMC engine will fit the
>TC,TB,TD.TF,YA,YB,YT, from the Mini, A30.A35,A40, Morris Minor 1000,
>etc, if you get really stuck. Obviously the weights will differ and
>points plate, and the cap & rotor.
>
>Neil.
>
>Dean Jensen wrote:
>>
>> Randy
>> I will try to address the first part of your question, if the top is
>> loose from the shaft, it needs to be secured together, to get
>> the timing stable. I am not sure where you are, but there is a
>> person in the states, Jim Taylor, from Oklahama, that pins
>> the two parts together, goes a good job, I had him do one of
>> mine
>> Dean
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: randell s Kegg
>> To: mg-tabc@egroups.com
>> Date: Tuesday, May 02, 2000 10:27 AM
>> Subject: [mg-tabc] MG T-Series Distributors
>>
>> >To All :
>> > I ran across a problem the other day and would like to get your
>> >opinions. I was overhauling a distributor on a friend's TD; replacing the
>> >bushings, toggles, thrust washers, etc. The bushings had become so worn
>> >that the car would no longer run reliably. There were two aspects to the
>> >overhaul that I could use some help with.
>> >
>> >1. The body of the distributor is made up of two parts; an alloy bowl,
>> >and a steel cylinder . I assume that these two parts were mated at the
>> >time of manufacture by casting the alloy bowl around the cylinder. Is
>> >this correct? I bring this up because, in this case, the bowl is slightly
>> >loose on the cylinder,(the part that holds the bushings). It rocks a
>> >little bit. Is there a way to eliminate this looseness? SInce the point
>> >plate is screwed to the bowl, and the distributor cam is part of the
>> >shaft, too much play in this area will affect the consistency of the
>> >point gap. I am afraid to try to peen the two parts for fear of cracking
>> >the bowl. Epoxy? What do you think?
>> >
>> >2. In this particular car, the owner had a problem years ago, where the
>> >pin that secures the distributor drive gear fell out into the oil pan.
>> >This caused the drive gear to detach and left him by the side of the
>> >road. At that time, a local mechanic fixed the problem by fishing out
>> >the gear with a magnet and reattaching it to the shaft with a split
>> >rolled pin, (hollow in the middle). He also safety wired the pin, so that
>> >it could not fall out. For many years, this arrangement has worked well.
>> > Back to the present:
>> > When our replacement parts arrived for the distributor, one of them was
>> >a new pin. It is solid and twice as long as it needs to be. It also does
>> >not fit super tightly. Not having had a T distributor apart before this
>> >one, I don't know how to fit this new pin. Do I cut it off? Do I peen
>> >over the ends a bit so that it can't fall out? I don't know. The split
>> >rolled pin with the safety wire seems to be an improvement to me. What do
>> >you think? Has anyone else had the problem of the pin removing itself
>> >from the shaft?
>> >Thanks for your help. I am looking forward to hearing from you.........
>> >
>> >Randy Kegg
>> >
>> >
>> >
>
>
>