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thermostats
Posted: Mon Mar 20, 2000 4:54 am
by Gene Wescott
I must have erased the previous conversations about replacing a non- functioning thermostat. What was the consensus? A: buy one of the replacements from Abingdon Spares or Moss, or B) try to fit another thermostat such as an MGB into the old housing, and close the bypass hole down to a small hole? It was warm enough in Fairbanks last week (39 deg. F) that I could start my TC and at least sit in it, and think about how nice it will be to actually drive around in a few weeks.
Gene Wescott
Re: Thermostats
Posted: Sat Oct 21, 2006 2:14 pm
by John Patterson
Madhu, who has these new aluminum thermostats?
John Patterson
-----Original Message-----
From:
mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com [mailto:
mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of Paroor
Sent: Saturday, October 21, 2006 3:23 PM
To: acmehumor;
mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com
Subject: AW: [mg-tabc] Thermosats
Hi Bill,
The now aluminium body with the replaceable thermostat is
comparatively cheep. So it is not worth working on the old housing.
Madhu
-----Urspr ngliche Nachricht-----
Von:
mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com [mailto:
mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com]Im Auftrag
von acmehumor
Gesendet: Samstag, 21. Oktober 2006 20:50
An:
mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com
Betreff: [mg-tabc] Thermosats
Has anybody modified their TC non-replaceable thermostat housing to
hold a replacable thermostat? If so, what thermostat did you use?
Thanks,
Bill Williams
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Thermostats
Posted: Fri Mar 07, 2008 9:55 am
by eds29212
On the TC-TD EPAG engine is there any reason or can anyone think of a
reason you could not put the thermostat between the thermostat housing
and the water outlet housing? I have tried a number of off the shelf
thermostats placing them with the expansion side down, between the
water outlet housing and the thermostat housing and they seem to fit
quite well. There's a small amount of bevel in the top of the water
outlet housing so the thermostats (the ones I tried) do not interfere
with the gasket. If the thermostat doesn't have a tickler hole like
some Ford thermostats (a hole with a small piece of metal sitting in
it). You could drill a small hole in. or so for the bypass coolant to
flow during warm up. Then block off the bypass pipe at the top of the
elbow going into the thermostat housing. I can't see where this would
obstruct the water flow any more than the normal thermostat placement.
Thanks for you input.
Ed TD20709
Columbia, SC
Re: Thermostats
Posted: Fri Mar 07, 2008 11:43 am
by BUD SILVERS
Hello All;
When I first got my car it overheated badly. I kept putting water in it. The
first trip up Pikes Peak (slow speed/high load) I stopped and put water in
ten or twelve times, maybe more. I carried 5 gallons of water with me, and
used most of it going up! I wrote emails to the group concerning
overheating. I got mostly responses back saying check the radiator. I did
and guess what? It was clogged! I cleaned it with little effect, but things
were a bit better. I was in a parade and had to pull out two blocks before
the finish due to overheating. The car right next to me was Bob Rich in his
J2. His car was hot too, but not as hot as mine. BTW the J2 has no water
pump. Water is circulated by heat rising and cool falling. I cleaned the
radiator some more! This time I took it to a professional, who claimed he
rodded it out, but I think he just boiled it. Anyway that made it a little
better, but the car still overheated and ran hot. Next I bought a 6 vane
water pump and installed a MGB fan blade. Now that really helped. The fan
blade made the engine incredibly smoother. OK, it's not stock and it is
noticeable, but it works and it is a bolt on change. No modification to the
car is necessary. I then bought a new radiator, and that seems to have
solved the problem completely. The last trip up Pikes Peak (last summer) the
temp never got over 85 degrees Celsius. I came home without adding ANY
water, and did not lose any on the trip. I am still running a completely
stock thermostat. I should also mention that I drove my car at 55 to 65 MPH
across Kansas for 75+ miles in 95 degree Fahrenheit sunshine last summer and
the temp never got over 85 degrees Celsius. Two last things I did. I set my
timing at 3000 RPM and adjusted my carburetors.
Here is a summary:
1. Make sure your radiator is flowing as it should. (REALLY IMPORTANT)
2. Install a 6 vane water pump. (ALSO IMPORTANT, and cheaper than a
thermostat with housing)
3. Install a MGB fan if you wish.
4. Check/set your timing.
5. Check/set your carburetor adjustment.
Now go drive your car and quit trying to find a way to modify something that
is not broken.
I don't mean to be critical of those of you who have installed a removable
thermostat. It just really complicates the cooling system as it was
designed. You all know that I am not opposed to modifying things,
particularly if it does no harm to the car. For me I would prefer to keep
the car as original as possible. My concern over the modern thermostat is
that the engine was not designed for it. My worry is that too much pressure
will build up and cause the soft plugs to pop out or the head gasket to
blow. This is supposed to be a non pressure cooling system. It works that
way for me. I am sure that those of you who have changed to a modern
thermostat will say that the pressure does not cause a problem either. You
are probably right.
One last thing, there may be some of you who do not know that you can check
your thermostat by putting it in hot water with a candy/cooking thermometer
and watch to see what temperature it is opening at. Mine starts to open just
over 100 Degrees Fahrenheit and is completely open about 175 degrees
Fahrenheit.
Anyway, there is my 2 cents and then some.
Have a great day.
Bud Silvers
TC 8192 - Low n slo in the Black Forest of Colorado......
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: Thermostats
Posted: Fri Mar 07, 2008 12:42 pm
by E.Worpe@surrey.ac.uk
Hi Ed,
The thermostat is part of a feedback system. Depending on the temp.
of the outlet water, the flow is either directed through the bypass,
through the radiator or through both so as to maintain a near constant
temp. Such a scheme maintains the maximum flow through the water ways
and hopefully eliminates any hot spots. By allowing water to flow
through the bypass when the the thermostat is shut, the thermostat is
able to respond to a more realistic indication of the engine's temperature.
Placing the thermostat between the thermostat housing and the water
outlet elbow on the cylinder head, would restrict water flow through
the engine as it warms up. This could create local hot spots which
would stress the cast iron of the block.
The designers of the XPAG knew what they were doing, the bypass was
an integral part of a cooling system designed to maintain an adequate
flow of water under all conditions.
Hope this helps, Eric.
-----Original Message-----
On the TC-TD EPAG engine is there any reason or can anyone think of a
reason you could not put the thermostat between the thermostat housing
and the water outlet housing? I have tried a number of off the shelf
thermostats placing them with the expansion side down, between the
water outlet housing and the thermostat housing and they seem to fit
quite well. There's a small amount of bevel in the top of the water
outlet housing so the thermostats (the ones I tried) do not interfere
with the gasket. If the thermostat doesn't have a tickler hole like
some Ford thermostats (a hole with a small piece of metal sitting in
it). You could drill a small hole in. or so for the bypass coolant to
flow during warm up. Then block off the bypass pipe at the top of the
elbow going into the thermostat housing. I can't see where this would
obstruct the water flow any more than the normal thermostat placement.
Ed TD20709
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: Thermostats
Posted: Fri Mar 07, 2008 3:34 pm
by Stephen D Stierman
Hi Bud,
Rest assured I only replaced my original thermostat
with a modern unit because the original was toast,
stuck open, cocked, falling apart etc.etc. A modern
'stat does nothing to build up pressure that the
original would do if working properly. For those
doubters, I saw no ill activity coming from my
radiator, glowing embers or newts eyes, hot spots or
bubbling liquid. Likely half of them were run without
thermostats before we came along and restored them
anyway.
Best regards
Steve Stierman TC2911
--- BUD SILVERS wrote:
> Hello All;
>
>
>
> When I first got my car it overheated badly. I kept
> putting water in it. The
> first trip up Pikes Peak (slow speed/high load) I
> stopped and put water in
> ten or twelve times, maybe more. I carried 5 gallons
> of water with me, and
> used most of it going up! I wrote emails to the
> group concerning
> overheating. I got mostly responses back saying
> check the radiator. I did
> and guess what? It was clogged! I cleaned it with
> little effect, but things
> were a bit better. I was in a parade and had to pull
> out two blocks before
> the finish due to overheating. The car right next to
> me was Bob Rich in his
> J2. His car was hot too, but not as hot as mine. BTW
> the J2 has no water
> pump. Water is circulated by heat rising and cool
> falling. I cleaned the
> radiator some more! This time I took it to a
> professional, who claimed he
> rodded it out, but I think he just boiled it. Anyway
> that made it a little
> better, but the car still overheated and ran hot.
> Next I bought a 6 vane
> water pump and installed a MGB fan blade. Now that
> really helped. The fan
> blade made the engine incredibly smoother. OK, it's
> not stock and it is
> noticeable, but it works and it is a bolt on change.
> No modification to the
> car is necessary. I then bought a new radiator, and
> that seems to have
> solved the problem completely. The last trip up
> Pikes Peak (last summer) the
> temp never got over 85 degrees Celsius. I came home
> without adding ANY
> water, and did not lose any on the trip. I am still
> running a completely
> stock thermostat. I should also mention that I drove
> my car at 55 to 65 MPH
> across Kansas for 75+ miles in 95 degree Fahrenheit
> sunshine last summer and
> the temp never got over 85 degrees Celsius. Two last
> things I did. I set my
> timing at 3000 RPM and adjusted my carburetors.
>
>
>
> Here is a summary:
>
>
>
> 1. Make sure your radiator is flowing as it
> should. (REALLY IMPORTANT)
>
> 2. Install a 6 vane water pump. (ALSO
> IMPORTANT, and cheaper than a
> thermostat with housing)
>
> 3. Install a MGB fan if you wish.
>
> 4. Check/set your timing.
>
> 5. Check/set your carburetor adjustment.
>
>
>
> Now go drive your car and quit trying to find a way
> to modify something that
> is not broken.
>
>
>
> I don't mean to be critical of those of you who have
> installed a removable
> thermostat. It just really complicates the cooling
> system as it was
> designed. You all know that I am not opposed to
> modifying things,
> particularly if it does no harm to the car. For me I
> would prefer to keep
> the car as original as possible. My concern over the
> modern thermostat is
> that the engine was not designed for it. My worry is
> that too much pressure
> will build up and cause the soft plugs to pop out or
> the head gasket to
> blow. This is supposed to be a non pressure cooling
> system. It works that
> way for me. I am sure that those of you who have
> changed to a modern
> thermostat will say that the pressure does not cause
> a problem either. You
> are probably right.
>
>
>
> One last thing, there may be some of you who do not
> know that you can check
> your thermostat by putting it in hot water with a
> candy/cooking thermometer
> and watch to see what temperature it is opening at.
> Mine starts to open just
> over 100 Degrees Fahrenheit and is completely open
> about 175 degrees
> Fahrenheit.
>
> Anyway, there is my 2 cents and then some.
>
>
>
> Have a great day.
>
>
>
> Bud Silvers
>
> TC 8192 - Low n slo in the Black Forest of
> Colorado......
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>
Re: Thermostats
Posted: Fri Mar 07, 2008 9:06 pm
by Steve S.
Build pressure? Please elaborate!
- Steve S, TC8975, LA, CA -
----- Original Message -----
From: Stephen D Stierman
To: BUD SILVERS ;
mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, March 07, 2008 3:34 PM
Subject: RE: [mg-tabc] Thermostats
Hi Bud,
Rest assured I only replaced my original thermostat
with a modern unit because the original was toast,
stuck open, cocked, falling apart etc.etc. A modern
'stat does nothing to build up pressure that the
original would do if working properly. For those
doubters, I saw no ill activity coming from my
radiator, glowing embers or newts eyes, hot spots or
bubbling liquid. Likely half of them were run without
thermostats before we came along and restored them
anyway.
Best regards
Steve Stierman TC2911,_._,___
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: Thermostats
Posted: Sat Mar 08, 2008 1:33 am
by Ian
Mine ran quite happily when bought in the mid 60's with no thermostat and a cork blocking the bypass connection - inside the hose as I later found out on stripping the car down for restoration. No idea what to do for the best now (having bought a modern ali replica complete with thermostat)!
Best regards to all,
Ian Linton TA3120 East Sussex, UK
----- Original Message -----
From: Steve S.
To:
mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com ; Stephen D Stierman
Sent: Saturday, March 08, 2008 5:06 AM
Subject: Re: [mg-tabc] Thermostats
Build pressure? Please elaborate!
- Steve S, TC8975, LA, CA -
----- Original Message -----
From: Stephen D Stierman
To: BUD SILVERS ;
mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, March 07, 2008 3:34 PM
Subject: RE: [mg-tabc] Thermostats
Hi Bud,
Rest assured I only replaced my original thermostat
with a modern unit because the original was toast,
stuck open, cocked, falling apart etc.etc. A modern
'stat does nothing to build up pressure that the
original would do if working properly. For those
doubters, I saw no ill activity coming from my
radiator, glowing embers or newts eyes, hot spots or
bubbling liquid. Likely half of them were run without
thermostats before we came along and restored them
anyway.
Best regards
Steve Stierman TC2911,_._,___
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: Thermostats
Posted: Sat Mar 08, 2008 4:39 am
by Stephen D Stierman
None of them build any pressure, as we know the TC is
not a pressurized cooling system as it came from the
works.
regards,
Steve Stierman TC 2911, in Ohio in the middle of a
major snow storm.
--- "Steve S." wrote:
> Build pressure? Please elaborate!
>
> - Steve S, TC8975, LA, CA -
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Stephen D Stierman
> To: BUD SILVERS ;
mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Friday, March 07, 2008 3:34 PM
> Subject: RE: [mg-tabc] Thermostats
>
> Hi Bud,
> Rest assured I only replaced my original
> thermostat
> with a modern unit because the original was toast,
> stuck open, cocked, falling apart etc.etc. A
> modern
> 'stat does nothing to build up pressure that the
> original would do if working properly. For those
> doubters, I saw no ill activity coming from my
> radiator, glowing embers or newts eyes, hot spots
> or
> bubbling liquid. Likely half of them were run
> without
> thermostats before we came along and restored them
> anyway.
> Best regards
> Steve Stierman TC2911,_._,___
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>
Re: Thermostats
Posted: Sat Mar 08, 2008 5:26 am
by John Seim
That is exactly what I have been doing with some cars for years. I get
a 165 degree
thermostat, grind part of the outer lip to fit the recess in the bottom
of the thermostat
housing, drill a by-pass hole into the thermostat, and leave it
sandwiched between
the thermostat housing and gasket, with the water outlet housing on the
other side
of the gasket. I also make a flow restrictor for the by-pass port, with
a small hole for
some water to flow through, but the majority to flow back to the
radiator.
I recommend the Moss reproduction of the original bellows thermostat.
This is for
those with a very sound casting, and not wanting to spend the money for
a new
unit.
John Seim
Irvine, CA
On Mar 7, 2008, at 9:55 AM, eds29212 wrote:
> On the TC-TD EPAG engine is there any reason or can anyone think of a
> reason you could not put the thermostat between the thermostat housing
> and the water outlet housing? I have tried a number of off the shelf
> thermostats placing them with the expansion side down, between the
> water outlet housing and the thermostat housing and they seem to fit
> quite well. There's a small amount of bevel in the top of the water
> outlet housing so the thermostats (the ones I tried) do not interfere
> with the gasket. If the thermostat doesn't have a tickler hole like
> some Ford thermostats (a hole with a small piece of metal sitting in
> it). You could drill a small hole in. or so for the bypass coolant to
> flow during warm up. Then block off the bypass pipe at the top of the
> elbow going into the thermostat housing. I can't see where this would
> obstruct the water flow any more than the normal thermostat placement.
>
> Thanks for you input.
>
> Ed TD20709
> Columbia, SC
>
>
>
>
>
>
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>
>
>
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