Wilsons Sandbox

Posted: **Sun Mar 05, 2000 8:57 pm**

Hey All

Have any of you used this product as a replacement for water/coolant.

http://www.evanscooling.com/

I am considering runnning it this year in the TC. Looks to be an advantage
to eliminate boil over on hot days as the boil boint is 370 F. They say it
also makes better contact with the metal thus moving heat better. There is
no water mixed in, 100% product.
Any experience out there with this stuff?

Joe Potter

Posted: **Tue Mar 07, 2000 3:50 pm**

If you are having an over=heating problem, look to solve the problem. My
TC would overheat, since I bought it in 1978. I thought that was the way
they were. I did everything. Finally found out that the radiator core
was wrong. The correct core is a three pass radiator core, providing
more cooling surface area. A two pass radiator core might be installed
in your car. You can tell by looking from the back at the core at the
top or bottom tank. If you see three rows of tubes (front, middle,
rear), then it might require rodding out. If you only see two rows of
tubes, you will never solve your cooling problems. My TC runs between
142-156 degrees F. Maybe 170 F on a very hot day (over 100 F).

Posted: **Tue Mar 07, 2000 5:53 pm**

In a message dated 3/7/00 3:50:59 PM Pacific Standard Time,
kingseim@earthlink.net writes:

> If you are having an over=heating problem, look to solve the problem.

John

Im not having a heating problem with my TC. However, the system is
inefficient, and we have all had the moments when a temp climb is the result
of some situation. This coolant is being used in race cars a good bit. I
was thinking that because it does (or says it does) a better job of getting
heat out, especially from hot spots in the cylinder head that it would be an
improvement to a non pressurized system. I think I am going to try it this
summer, so time will tell if its worth the effort and price: $25 per gallon.
No one on the list has reported back using it, so I assume no one is.

Joe Potter

Posted: **Wed Mar 08, 2000 8:15 am**

On the subject of overheating there was a big revelation about 10-15 years
ago concerning a 3/16" dia. passage drilled behind one of the freezeplugs.
Over the years the small hole plugs up and the water flow stops. I
believe it was the one located aft of the distributor in that bulging
water passage. The hole was directed down and aft to allow water to the
back of the block to increase cooling in that area. It may not seem like
much but it did solve the overheating problem of several of our club
members. If it is totally plugged then you might not even be able to see
it. Then again, if memory serves, some blocks did not have them
(possibly the early blocks). Will see if I can find the article.

On Tue, 7 Mar 2000 JTPAKI@aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 3/7/00 3:50:59 PM Pacific Standard Time,
> kingseim@earthlink.net writes:
>
> > If you are having an over=heating problem, look to solve the problem.
>
> John
>
> Im not having a heating problem with my TC. However, the system is
> inefficient, and we have all had the moments when a temp climb is the result
> of some situation. This coolant is being used in race cars a good bit. I
> was thinking that because it does (or says it does) a better job of getting
> heat out, especially from hot spots in the cylinder head that it would be an
> improvement to a non pressurized system. I think I am going to try it this
> summer, so time will tell if its worth the effort and price: $25 per gallon.
> No one on the list has reported back using it, so I assume no one is.
>
> Joe Potter
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> -- Check out your group's private Chat room
> -- http://www.egroups.com/ChatPage?listName=mg-tabc&m=1
>
>
>

Posted: **Wed Mar 08, 2000 8:32 am**

David:

I researched this about twenty years ago. The pre-TF engines did not have
the hole drilled. There are two core plugs in the "bulge" on the right side
of the engine. If you pop them out, you will see a small hole drilled in
the bottom of the open hole. Make sure that it is clear by running the
approriate size drill thru it. Then look at the rear opening. If there is
no hole drilled, then carefully drill the propler size hole at the
appropriate angle. Re-install new core plugs and you will find that overall
the engine will not heat up as much.
Also, the less antifreeze you run, the cooler the engine will run also.
Carl Cederstrand developed a way to add an extra stock fan blade to the
existing pair, and this increases the airflow about 300 percent. My car
runs at about 75-80 celsius on any given day. On long road trips, in 100
degree F. weather, it never goes over 85 degree C.

Skip Kelsey...........................At 08:18 AM 3/8/00 -0800, David Edgar
wrote:

>On the subject of overheating there was a big revelation about 10-15 years
>ago concerning a 3/16" dia. passage drilled behind one of the freezeplugs.
>Over the years the small hole plugs up and the water flow stops. I
>believe it was the one located aft of the distributor in that bulging
>water passage. The hole was directed down and aft to allow water to the
>back of the block to increase cooling in that area. It may not seem like
>much but it did solve the overheating problem of several of our club
>members. If it is totally plugged then you might not even be able to see
>it. Then again, if memory serves, some blocks did not have them
>(possibly the early blocks). Will see if I can find the article.
>
>On Tue, 7 Mar 2000 JTPAKI@aol.com wrote:
>
>> In a message dated 3/7/00 3:50:59 PM Pacific Standard Time,
>> kingseim@earthlink.net writes:
>>
>> > If you are having an over=heating problem, look to solve the problem.
>>
>> John
>>
>> Im not having a heating problem with my TC. However, the system is
>> inefficient, and we have all had the moments when a temp climb is the

result

>> of some situation. This coolant is being used in race cars a good bit. I
>> was thinking that because it does (or says it does) a better job of

getting

>> heat out, especially from hot spots in the cylinder head that it would

be an

>> improvement to a non pressurized system. I think I am going to try it

this

>> summer, so time will tell if its worth the effort and price: $25 per

gallon.

>> No one on the list has reported back using it, so I assume no one is.
>>
>> Joe Potter
>>
>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>> -- Check out your group's private Chat room
>> -- http://www.egroups.com/ChatPage?listName=mg-tabc&m=1
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>------------------------------------------------------------------------
>-- 20 megs of disk space in your group's Document Vault
>-- http://www.egroups.com/docvault/mg-tabc/?m=1
>
>
>
>

Posted: **Wed Mar 08, 2000 10:01 am**

David Edgar wrote:

>
> On the subject of overheating there was a big revelation about 10-15 years
> ago concerning a 3/16" dia. passage drilled behind one of the freezeplugs.
> Over the years the small hole plugs up and the water flow stops. I
> believe it was the one located aft of the distributor in that bulging
> water passage. The hole was directed down and aft to allow water to the
> back of the block to increase cooling in that area. It may not seem like
> much but it did solve the overheating problem of several of our club
> members. If it is totally plugged then you might not even be able to see
> it. Then again, if memory serves, some blocks did not have them
> (possibly the early blocks). Will see if I can find the article.

You are correct about the hole and the location. The raised water
passage along the block has two 1 3/8" core plugs. The rear plug should
have a drilled passage (3/16"- 1/4"); which is normally blocked when you
remove the core plug, and look for the hole. If you do not look for the
hole, you will not see it, as it will be so plugged, that it will not
appear as a hole at all. Later engines had this hole drilled in both
core openings. It was either for cavitation purposes, or the factory
found that one hole was not sufficient, should it become plugged. In
every engine I have rebuilt, I have added this second hole. It is more
fun to watch the owner's experssions when I take an electric drill to
his engine block, "modifying the original factory design".
John Seim
John Seim

Posted: **Thu Mar 09, 2000 12:38 am**

The waterflow into the XPAG engine is fed in from the rear of the block.
It enters the rear via a cast in passageway that runs all the way from
the radiator lower ( cooler) inlet pipe, along under the manifolds,
round into the REAR of the block, then up in the head. It then flows
ONLY in the head. The block, ( other than the rear behind the No. 4
cylinder,) relies entirely upon thermo-syphon. The water exits via the
front of the head into the water pump and up to the radiator.

Neil.

David Edgar wrote:

>
> On the subject of overheating there was a big revelation about 10-15 years
> ago concerning a 3/16" dia. passage drilled behind one of the freezeplugs.
> Over the years the small hole plugs up and the water flow stops. I
> believe it was the one located aft of the distributor in that bulging
> water passage. The hole was directed down and aft to allow water to the
> back of the block to increase cooling in that area. It may not seem like
> much but it did solve the overheating problem of several of our club
> members. If it is totally plugged then you might not even be able to see
> it. Then again, if memory serves, some blocks did not have them
> (possibly the early blocks). Will see if I can find the article.
>
> On Tue, 7 Mar 2000 JTPAKI@aol.com wrote:
>
> > In a message dated 3/7/00 3:50:59 PM Pacific Standard Time,
> > kingseim@earthlink.net writes:
> >
> > > If you are having an over=heating problem, look to solve the problem.
> >
> > John
> >
> > Im not having a heating problem with my TC. However, the system is
> > inefficient, and we have all had the moments when a temp climb is the result
> > of some situation. This coolant is being used in race cars a good bit. I
> > was thinking that because it does (or says it does) a better job of getting
> > heat out, especially from hot spots in the cylinder head that it would be an
> > improvement to a non pressurized system. I think I am going to try it this
> > summer, so time will tell if its worth the effort and price: $25 per gallon.
> > No one on the list has reported back using it, so I assume no one is.
> >
> > Joe Potter
> >
> > ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> > -- Check out your group's private Chat room
> > -- http://www.egroups.com/ChatPage?listName=mg-tabc&m=1
> >
> >
> >
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> -- 20 megs of disk space in your group's Document Vault
> -- http://www.egroups.com/docvault/mg-tabc/?m=1

Posted: **Mon Nov 17, 2003 12:03 pm**

Hi all,

Just to let you all know about something I was told of that you may be interested in putting in the cooling system of the T's. It is called Evans NPG+. It is non-poisonous due to its having an additive that prevents the body from metabolizing the glycol, and has a non-pressurized boiling point of over 350 degrees (F). Heat transfer is superior to that of water/antifreeze or even water +wetter.
The cost is high at about $22.50 (USD) per gallon, and you DO NOT MIX IT WITH WATER.
I tried it in my Sunbeam Tiger a couple of months ago, because it eliminates cavitations and hot spot vaporization. And this car had both, thanks to the under-developed cooling system (the problem in this car is that the air- once it flows through the radiator matrix- has no place to go, and the water pump adds to the fun by cavitating and causing bubbles in the coolant, where it flash-boils. ALSO, the radiator is lower then the top of the engine. Wow, what a job...
Many is the time that I have seen the temp gauge shoot past 240 (20# cap) like it was not even there, while I was stuck at a light in traffic!
The car now runs no hotter than 200 F at stops. Amazing!
Why use it in a car so over cooled as a T?
First, it won't kill your dog. Second, it does not electrolysis the cooling system causing corrosion of metal. (It makes the rubber last longer, too.) Third, it lasts 500,000 miles. And fourth, it eliminates hot spots which can cause pinking (detonation).
Works good, lasts a long time. If you have a blower, don't wait!

Best,
Ray

PS- go to www.evanscooling.com for more info. No dog in this hunt, and usual disclaimers apply.

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