Gas Tank Leak ?

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FDShade@aol.com
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Joined: Mon Nov 29, 1999 3:14 pm

Gas Tank Leak ?

Post by FDShade@aol.com » Sat Dec 18, 1999 11:05 am

Here from my file are a few responses to previous gas-tank leak queries:"
===
Dispose of the fuel in an enveronmentally friendly way (or use it as a
degreasing agent, but beware of the fumes). If the tank is badly rused,
replace it, the UK source of T type metal work I would recommend is Sportscar
Metalworks phone 44 (0) 1753 654144 speak with Mick Beakhouse &send him my
regards, a lot of my TC was made by Mick! Very good prices, can be in steel
or alluminium. If slightly rusted treat the inside with sealant as used in
aircraft tanks, made in USA, I have a UK supply source if you need it.
Remember to take the fuel filter out first, a MG Car Club member found the
fuel didn't flow after he treated his! All the best Steve Taylor
======
If the tank is really rusty and also needs to be repainted, you could have
it chemically dipped to remove all rust and paint, inside and out. Then pour
some aircraft sloshing compound into the tank and slosh it around to seal the
internal surfaces. Make sure the slosh compound is good for no lead, modern
gasoline. You will have to remove the low fuel level float, filler cap and
the fuel line filter before you dip the tank. Repaint the tank. If this too
radical, steam clean the tank which should remove most of the rust and crud
without damage to the paint. Again, slosh. Or, without removing the tank,
remove both drain/fuel line connections and wash the tank out with hot
water/soap solution and rinse. Most of the crud should come out. Old fuel,
I burn it in my outdoor barbecue pit. Any better suggestions?? Good luck,
Bob Grunau
=====
First you must use sealer that is designed for today's cocktail they call
gasoline. I now have sealer made by POR15 (ref. Hemmings and other sources).
Second, I gave up on sending unit. I tried three or more types of gasket
material including gas tank stop-leak epoxy (after surfacing sending unit and
tank ring perfectly flat) and I was real careful sealing screws also. My
conclusion is forget the low fuel light (Abingdon's 'drawing office really
botched the sending unit design) if you have more important things too attend
to in your life and don't like the idea of repainting your tank as often as a
wooden boat. Use a dip stick and trip meter. The source for leaks from
sending unit are, 1 - base of unit/tank joint, 2 - six screws, 3 - electrical
panel cover, 4 - electric terminal screw. Before you seal/line tank, remove
float from sending unit (but store it with rest of your interesting TC
parts). Mount rest of sending unit without gasket to tank. Then slosh tank
with sealer. Buy rubber stopper with one hole (chem lab supply) large enough
to plug filler cap and install long neck tubeless tire valve on stopper.
Pressure test tank with compressed air by pressurizing to about twenty pounds
(careful, do not bulge sheet metal). Apply shaving soap to suspect leak
areas, including stopper. If visual check is OK, let stand over night. Check
pressure in morning with tire guage. If all pressure is lost, reslosh with
more sealer. Good luck. Oh, make sure your gas cap keeps gas in tank when
cornering with full tank, but it must also allow air in to replace gas pumped
out. Peter Pleitner'
====
"Which Permatex Product? Ultra-Grey should be the latest product that they
have. It is gasoline impervious. Previous product was Part No. 9B, A compound
that 'sealed' fairly well. John Seim
===
I think I've found the 'solution' to the sending unit leak problem. My tank
is painted cream and the petrol here is dyed red (for leaded) so even the
slightest leak is very visible. It's a two part putty made by loctite. You
knead the two parts together, and put a bead around the flange in lieu of a
gasket. Works perfectly, and I've had occasion to remove the sender for
repairs after this process and it actually comes off without damage! In
Australia its part number is RPK1 and is sold in all auto parts shops. My
current installation has survived a year of full tanks, lots of driving,
heaps of temperature changes and there is still a perfect seal. I would
know very quickly if there wasn't! John Swanland TC 7557" John Swanland
====
"The sending unit has 3 areas prone to leaking. 1. seal at sending unit to
tank 2. seal at cover plate on sending unit 3. seal on post where wire
connects to sending unit IMHO forget about any neoprene gaskets and stick
with cork- it doesn't extrude out when tightened. I had mine perfect for a
while, then gave up and sealed the whole unit up so it externaly looks
perfect but is in effect non functioning. After all you need a stick anyway
to measure fuel! Bob Skillman "
==
I ordered a KREEM brand sloshing kit from http://www.jcwhitney.com/">JC Whitney, Inc.

http://www.jcwhitney.com/

Search under "Car Care and Chemicals" - "Sealants" - "Liquid Fuel Tank Liner
Kit"

I used it last month - so far so good !

Jim Shade, West Covina CA

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