Re: Digest Number 2153-A wee bit of adevice...pls

[j.p.friedler]

Those chromed plastic strips that used to be slid on the edge of car doors so that the edges wouldn't get dinged, are the ideal (and least intrusive) form of having the hood rest on the edge of the tool box. As it's a slippery surface, a little electric tape on top of the strip insures the hood won't slide. John F.

----- Original Message ----- From: mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com> To: mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Monday, June 13, 2005 11:21 AM Subject: [mg-tabc] Digest Number 2153 There are 23 messages in this issue. Topics in this digest: 1. Re: Gasoline or paint remover? From: "Jim or Jan Sullivan" jorjsullivan@msn.com> 2. "2 pack" or lacquer From: Mike Duvall duvallcom@sbcglobal.net> 3. Re: "2 pack" or lacquer From: Stephen D Stierman morgan7709@sbcglobal.net> 4. A WEE BIT OF ADVICE...PLS. From: "drcrougeux" drcrougeux@yahoo.com> 5. Re: A WEE BIT OF ADVICE...PLS. From: "Terry Horlick" thorlick@sbcglobal.net> 6. Re: "2 pack" or lacquer From: diecuts@aol.com 7. Re: Paddy Willmer book From: Terry Sanders taterry@pacbell.net> 8. Re: A WEE BIT OF ADVICE...PLS. From: "Mark Stolzenburg" stolzy40@sbcglobal.net> 9. Re: Engine bolt threads From: boltonmg@comcast.net 10. Update from Jim From: FDShade@aol.com 11. Tire Pressure From: DougPulver@aol.com 12. TB/TC/TD/TF Cluster gears UPDATE- Important read From: Mick Conde MMMGTCARS@yahoo.com> 13. Re: Storing Engines / Transmissions From: "1939mgtb" 1939mgtb@comcast.net> 14. Re: Gasoline or paint remover? From: "1939mgtb" 1939mgtb@comcast.net> 15. Re: "2 pack" or lacquer From: "1939mgtb" 1939mgtb@comcast.net> 16. Re: Gasoline or paint remover? From: Chip Old fold@bcpl.net> 17. Re: From: kwcp kwcp@comcast.net> 18. Re: Gasoline or paint remover? From: Charles Hill candahill@worldnet.att.net> 19. RE: "2 pack" or lacquer From: "Jeff Redman" redcigar1@bigpond.com> 20. AW: Tire Pressure From: "Paroor" paroor@t-online.de> 21. Re: Tank end-plates From: JohnHWSteedman@aol.com 22. RE: "2 pack" or lacquer From: Terry Sanders taterry@pacbell.net> 23. RE: Tire Pressure From: "Leinen, Robert" rleinen@ci.dearborn.mi.us> ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 1 Date: Sun, 12 Jun 2005 06:48:41 -0700 From: "Jim or Jan Sullivan" jorjsullivan@msn.com> Subject: Re: Gasoline or paint remover? Stephen, I agree, acrylic lacquer looks great on a TC. The modern plastic look is for a Honda or Chev. The modern paint may last longer but looks way out of place on a TC. Jim Sullivan TC 7517 EXU ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 2 Date: Sun, 12 Jun 2005 10:53:07 -0500 From: Mike Duvall duvallcom@sbcglobal.net> Subject: "2 pack" or lacquer We don't need a paint engineer to know the differences between the paints. The industry has virtually stopped using lacquer even thought the acrylic lacquers are better than the old celluloid lacquers originally used on the cars. First, nothing beats a lacquer finish. It has a depth and luster that I have not seen duplicated but that finish is extremely hard to get. Acrylic lacquers are more durable than the older lacquers but they still fade under the sun. Lacquer is easy to work with but shows every flaw under you paint. You have to know how to do proper prep and be able have decent spraying skills. Lacquer is much, much cheaper but getting harder to find. No one carries it locally anymore in my area. The new urethane enamel paints are the most rugged, durable and are the easiest to apply but you must use an appropriate mask or fresh air to for your health. Touch up is not that bad but takes more blending and some sanding. You can successfully touch up but it is not that big of a deal to spray a whole panel. The clearcoat hides so many flaws, it makes it much easier to work with. My brother-in-law runs a body shop and they don't use any single stage. One is not better than the other in every respect, you just have to decide which way to go......I originally planned to go with lacquer for my TD but then changed my mind and went with urethane. I'm glad I did because it was easier to work with, gave me paint job that seems to be accepted at shows without a problem and it rugged for driving. Mike ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 3 Date: Sun, 12 Jun 2005 09:38:13 -0700 (PDT) From: Stephen D Stierman morgan7709@sbcglobal.net> Subject: Re: "2 pack" or lacquer This is a good topic and we could go on about it forever in terms of what should be used on our old cars. Yes perhaps the new stuff is a bit more durable, but then I won't be driving my TC every day, remember GM used it for years. The issue of applying two pack at home is lack of a controlled environment. I have done some of this but temperature and dust control is always a problem. Dust always settles in the paint because it takes longer to dry then lacquer and you still end up sanding and are left with nibs. If I had a paint booth I would have no problems. Make no mistake acrylic lacquer is not nitro cellulose lacquer. Yes it may chip a bit easier but it does not crack when put it on over the correct substrates. If you put it on over old paint that is not acrylic lacquer you may have a problem. I did a friend's Healey and my first Morgan 15 years ago in acrylic lacquer and they are both fine and dandy with no cracks or problems because they were bare metal resprays using the correct primers. Yes body work needs to be smooth with lacquer, but believe me, I do my own and it needs to be smooth under any paint system if you don't want to see it. Does base coat clear coat look right on a TC or for that matter any 50's or 60's British car? My opinion only, but I think I prefer single stage as more in keeping with originality. cheers, S. Stierman TC2911 ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 4 Date: Sun, 12 Jun 2005 16:55:46 -0000 From: "drcrougeux" drcrougeux@yahoo.com> Subject: A WEE BIT OF ADVICE...PLS. Greets. When placing one (1) side of the hood (bonnet) in the up position and resting it on the top of the tool box, it tends to scratch/chip the paint. And, is at high risk to fall and scar the new paint/chrome. What device/gizmo do ya'll use to prevent this accident waiting to happen.... This fall factor is especially risky, when both side are up !!! I saw a pix recently of a block of wood being used, but it only showed a tiny portion of the length. I expect this is a common issue & the many car-showers will offer their favorite trick. Spare me the angst & scars, pls. ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 5 Date: Sun, 12 Jun 2005 17:08:30 -0000 From: "Terry Horlick" thorlick@sbcglobal.net> Subject: Re: A WEE BIT OF ADVICE...PLS. I think the "Bonnet Holder by Mark Stolzenburg" looks like an interesting way to go. I think I will make one today. http://www.mg-tabc.org/techn-up/bonnet_holder.htm Terry TC2285 --- In mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com, "drcrougeux" wrote: > Greets. > > When placing one (1) side of the hood (bonnet) in the up > position and resting it on the top of the tool box, it tends > to scratch/chip the paint. And, is at high risk to fall > and scar the new paint/chrome. What device/gizmo do ya'll use > to prevent this accident waiting to happen.... > This fall factor is especially risky, when both side are up !!! > > > I saw a pix recently of a block of wood being used, but it only > showed a tiny portion of the length. > > I expect this is a common issue & the many car-showers will offer > their favorite trick. > > Spare me the angst & scars, pls. ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 6 Date: Sun, 12 Jun 2005 13:10:13 EDT From: diecuts@aol.com Subject: Re: "2 pack" or lacquer Hi Mike, I have painted around 50 cars as a hobby since the mid sixties, mostly British but some others for friends, and like all of us, tend to learn some stuff along the way. 99% of a paint job is preparation and patience. With today's polyester primers and fillers which , for the most part, eliminate shrinkage, acrylic lacquer holds up better than in the past. However, lacquer is getting hard to find and single stage urethanes give solid colours an original look as compared to clear coat over a solid base coat. Like lacquer, single stage urethanes can be colour sanded and rubbed out to an incredible shine that avoids the plastic look found with basecoat clearcoat. Urethanes are tough and easy to repair. Clear coat works well with metallics and that is what the consumer wants for the most part on their car. Auto manufacturers like base coat clear coat as there are less solids , less environmental problems, and less cost. That beautiful glossy finish with the robot-controlled orange peel is no longer questioned by the public. If the orange peel bothers you, that is why there are so many detail shops around! I painted my 39 TA tickford with basecoat- clearcoat urethane and it is decent, but the next one will be with single stage urethane. The only concern with single stage is testing the actual colour and paint (ie PPG) that is going to be used on a panel including colour sanding and polishing. If the wait between coats is too long there may be a tendency to show faint 'tree rings', which are the separate coats showing up when colour sanded and polished as they did not melt into one another properly. With clear coat, 3 coats of clear colour sanded will not show the rings obviously since it is clear. The window on adding additonal coats of single stage colour after the first coat is 15 minutes to around 4 hours. Obviously, the closer one sprays to the 15 minute side of the window, the more likely the coats will blend together. I have delayed up to 45 minutes without problems. If you do your own painting with urethanes, look up cyanide gas. That is what you are spraying and breathing unless you have a positive air breathing system. Don't bother with face filters etc, as a couple of wiffs the wrong way will have nasty consequences. Avoid contact with skin, eyes, etc. I use a homemade vacuum cleaner setup with swimming pool flex tubing and a disposible air suit with clear mask made for painters that you wear over your clothing. Gives 15 lbs positive pressure at total cost around $200. Contact off line for details unless the rest of the list is really interested. Hope this helps and please excuse the length. Cheers, Lee Jacobsen, MI, TA2969 tickford, SA2333 tickford [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 7 Date: Sun, 12 Jun 2005 10:43:48 -0700 (PDT) From: Terry Sanders taterry@pacbell.net> Subject: Re: Paddy Willmer book Guys, I purchased this book from britbooks.com before I realized that it had not yet been published. Their web site seemed to indicate it coming shortly. This was some time ago. Because I used their website to order and gave a credit card number, the card was charged immediately and still no book, so use caution at britbooks. You can call or email Eric and order books not yet in print like the T Register yearbook or the MMM yearbook and he won't charge you until he ships......just don't use the web site ordering form. Terry in Oakland SEBRING222@aol.com wrote: The Paddy Wilmer book is available for immediate delivery from Chaters - www.motorbooks.co.uk for $64.21 plus shipping. Jim Dougherty TC 4931 TC 5382 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Yahoo! Groups Links [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 8 Date: Sun, 12 Jun 2005 13:07:09 -0500 From: "Mark Stolzenburg" stolzy40@sbcglobal.net> Subject: Re: A WEE BIT OF ADVICE...PLS. Go to the mg-tabc website and click on the Technology section found on the left hand side of the home page. Once the Technology page opens page down to the Chassis/Body section and click on Bonnet Holder (Mark Stolzenburg). I think you will find what you are looking. BTW, the sites web-masters, Walter and Jim have done a fabulous job putting helpful technical info on the site. I always try to check that first before I start any project on the TC. Mark Stolzenburg St. Louis, Missouri TC 7812 ----- Original Message ----- From: "drcrougeux" drcrougeux@yahoo.com> To: mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Sunday, June 12, 2005 11:55 AM Subject: [mg-tabc] A WEE BIT OF ADVICE...PLS. > Greets. > > When placing one (1) side of the hood (bonnet) in the up > position and resting it on the top of the tool box, it tends > to scratch/chip the paint. And, is at high risk to fall > and scar the new paint/chrome. What device/gizmo do ya'll use > to prevent this accident waiting to happen.... > This fall factor is especially risky, when both side are up !!! > > > I saw a pix recently of a block of wood being used, but it only > showed a tiny portion of the length. > > I expect this is a common issue & the many car-showers will offer > their favorite trick. > > Spare me the angst & scars, pls. > > > > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 9 Date: Sun, 12 Jun 2005 18:44:58 +0000 From: boltonmg@comcast.net Subject: Re: Engine bolt threads Hi Andrew, I see others have given you the correct reply, which you knew already, but I was waiting for some of the experts to say that there is actually a difference between metric that Lord Nuffield used and today's modern metric. But I can't remember the precise difference, thinking that it is the specifications of the root of the threads. The threads are essentially interchangeable and a different thread root form should only effect stress properties. I found a web site http://euler9.tripod.com/bolt-database/22.html which states that today's ISO metric was derived from the French standard. Nuffield "went metric" because he bought thread cutting machinery from a bankrupt Hotchkiss factory, but didn't want to get mechanics to change their tools, so manufactured the bolts and nuts with Whitworth head sizes. I'm not suggesting everyone read the technical specifications in the web page, but do try to look at paragraph "i". The author has got America's decline in world commerce summed up. Cheers, Peter Ross Bolton, Massachusetts TC 8892 -------------- Original message -------------- > Hi all, > > Can someone enlighten me about the correct threads for the bolt holes in > XPAG/XPEG engines. I always thought they were standard metric with > Whitworth > heads but now I'm not so sure - someone I met described them as "mad > metric" > which he said is a little different to standard metric - I always thought > this > referred to the combination of metric with Whitworth. So what is correct?? > > I've tried to look on The Sacred Octagon CD but I can't get the bloody > thing to > work. I also looked at the technology section of T-ABC and this seems to > confirm > the threads are metric. > > Cheers, > > Andrew Clayton > Melbourne, Australia > TC 4054 > ---------- > > No virus found in this outgoing message. > Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. > Version: 7.0.323 / Virus Database: 267.6.7 - Release Date: 10/06/2005 > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 10 Date: Sun, 12 Jun 2005 19:02:22 EDT From: FDShade@aol.com Subject: Update from Jim ===Wecome to our 728th member Steve Rule ----------- _s.rule4444@comcast.net_ (mailto:s.rule4444@comcast.net) ---------- Bow, NH, USA 1948 TC 7011 XPAG7578 === But goodbye to 7538 Tabbert, Robert ------------- _rtab@msn.com_ (mailto:rtab@msn.com) ------- Lafayette, LA, USA 1949 TC EXU 7538 XPAG 8275 === and - to clarify the T-ABC program Recently T-ABC member Mark Stolzenburg (_stolzy40@sbcglobal.net_ (mailto:stolzy40@sbcglobal.net) ) wrote: "Walter and Jim have done a fabulous job putting helpful technical info on the site" Thanks for the kind words Mark - but I thought I should clarify (especially for newer members) how the T-ABC program has evolved. When I purchased my car in 1998 I realized that I would need help so I searched the internet for other TC owners in order to exchange information. About a dozen of us began exchanging information by addressing our emails to the other eleven members. One of the group; Walter Preschl then offered to register the group with an internet program (now Yahoo) that would enable us to address email to Yahoo and all members would receive the email. Walter also volunteered to create a website for the group. Someone suggested, and it was agreed that we include TA and TB owners as well as TC owners, and "T-ABCs Forever" was born. As interest spread, others joined the group and after we grew to over one-hundred members someone suggested we create a car badge and a design "contest" resulted in the Austin Bear design. Walter and I share the tasks: Walter maintains the website including all of the website pages:technical and special files, gallery photos, members roster, suppliers list, etc. All photos and other information you want to see on the website should be directed to _walter@mg-tabc.org_ (mailto:walter@mg-tabc.org) My involvement is registering new members with Yahoo, distribution of badges and patches, and emailing periodic "Updates by Jim" === and it is amazing to me and I'm sure to the other dozen or so early members, that we are now over 700 members !! Jim Shade, West Covina CA [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 11 Date: Sun, 12 Jun 2005 19:37:01 -0400 From: DougPulver@aol.com Subject: Tire Pressure A customer came into my friends shop yesterday with his TC. He has 16" wheels and the Dunlop tires looked "low". I checked the tire pressure and it was 16 pounds on all four tires. I know we have had this discussion several times in the past and the general consensus seemed to be that tire pressure between 26 - 30 pounds was OK. Is that still a good rule of thumb for the tires on 16" wheels? Doug Pulver TC 5850 (with 6 new studs in the RH bearing carrier - one of which is now spinning as I tighten up the brake drum holding nut - aaaaaarrrrrrgggghghhhhhhh!) San Diego, CA [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 12 Date: Sun, 12 Jun 2005 17:29:53 -0700 (PDT) From: Mick Conde MMMGTCARS@yahoo.com> Subject: TB/TC/TD/TF Cluster gears UPDATE- Important read Group- As promised, following is a list of people that wish to go forward with this TD/TF project. The price break is at 25 pieces or $496.00 each ( and a one time CNC programming charge that will be divided by 25). Please review and update me if you wish to add any additional gears to your order. I have contacted Bob Seymour @ Abingdon Spares and he does not need any at present but will place an order for the TB/TC gear run. I have not contacted Moss, they do things a little differntly. PLEASE remember, this is for TD/TF cluster gear #AAA5806 ONLY, NOT TB/TC yet. Please confirm to me, off group. THANKS mick John Seim 1 or (2) ? Ray 1939MGTB 1 or (2) ? Bob Granau 2 or (3) ? Gregg Purvis 3 Ross Taylor 1 Larry Shoer 1 Gene anngene 1 Ted Jackson 1 Stephen Bishop 1 Blake 1 yd3@nvc.net Hugh Pite 1 Mick Conde 5 others 6 non TABC group That should make the total 25 for this first order. Any changes to the above, please get back to me ASAP. I am still working on the TB/TC cluster. Ross Taylor has a NOS original that he will be sending me to examine and we will have that one quoted as well. If you are interested in this run, again please contact me off group to apply. Also, once we get the TC cluster gears made, I will have a complete gearbox/remote & clutch housing for sale, restored and rebuilt for late summer early fall. If you need one now would be a good time to speak up, I only have one left. mick Pittsburgh PA --------------------------------- Do you Yahoo!? Make Yahoo! your home page [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 13 Date: Sun, 12 Jun 2005 08:00:29 -0500 From: "1939mgtb" 1939mgtb@comcast.net> Subject: Re: Storing Engines / Transmissions How extended? Best, Ray "Much can be achieved with a smile. However, much more can be achieved with a smile and a gun." ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bryan P." purclb@pcug.org.au> To: "Mg-Tabc@Yahoogroups.Com" mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Sunday, June 12, 2005 4:58 AM Subject: [mg-tabc] Storing Engines / Transmissions > I've seen two stroke fuel turn to varnish / tar when left for a long (very > long) time in a lawn mower's tank. > I've heard of a gear box's (or it may have been a rear axle's) oil ending > up > the same way due to a long period of storage after rebuilding. > Certainly, rebuilt engines / transmissions are prone to rust during > storage, > particularly, but not only, in the case of newly machined surfaces. > I'd be grateful for Group member's collective wisdom regarding steps that > can be taken, materials used (desiccants, lubricants, sealants, WHY?) , > etc > to protect assembled items during EXTENDED periods of storage. > Regards > Bryan > > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 14 Date: Sun, 12 Jun 2005 09:13:16 -0500 From: "1939mgtb" 1939mgtb@comcast.net> Subject: Re: Gasoline or paint remover? Guys, I think you mis-understand. I am NOT advocating a modern clear-coat over the color. That produces the modern sharply shiny paint that looks very wrong on the old cars. I AM saying that a catalyzed paint will stand up to more abuse, and have a proper soft shine look when applied and buffed properly. If you don't drive your car much, paint the car on the patio, or don't mind touching up the paint continually on the gas tank every time you spill gas on it, use lacquer. BTW, lacquer WASN'T used on the cars new..... :-0 I don't care if you brush paint the cars with Rustoleum...they belong to you! Best, Ray "Much can be achieved with a smile. However, much more can be achieved with a smile and a gun." ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jim or Jan Sullivan" jorjsullivan@msn.com> To: "1939mgtb" 1939mgtb@comcast.net>; mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com>; "Stephen D Stierman" morgan7709@sbcglobal.net> Sent: Sunday, June 12, 2005 8:48 AM Subject: Re: [mg-tabc] Gasoline or paint remover? > Stephen, > > I agree, acrylic lacquer looks great on a TC. The modern plastic look is > for a Honda or Chev. The modern paint may last longer but looks way out of > place on a TC. > Jim Sullivan TC 7517 EXU > > > ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 15 Date: Sun, 12 Jun 2005 19:30:13 -0500 From: "1939mgtb" 1939mgtb@comcast.net> Subject: Re: "2 pack" or lacquer Bingo! Best, Ray "Much can be achieved with a smile. However, much more can be achieved with a smile and a gun." ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mike Duvall" duvallcom@sbcglobal.net> To: mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Sunday, June 12, 2005 10:53 AM Subject: [mg-tabc] "2 pack" or lacquer > We don't need a paint engineer to know the differences between the > paints. The industry has virtually stopped using lacquer even thought > the acrylic lacquers are better than the old celluloid lacquers > originally used on the cars. > > First, nothing beats a lacquer finish. It has a depth and luster that I > have not seen duplicated but that finish is extremely hard to get. > Acrylic lacquers are more durable than the older lacquers but they > still fade under the sun. Lacquer is easy to work with but shows every > flaw under you paint. You have to know how to do proper prep and be > able have decent spraying skills. Lacquer is much, much cheaper but > getting harder to find. No one carries it locally anymore in my area. > > The new urethane enamel paints are the most rugged, durable and are the > easiest to apply but you must use an appropriate mask or fresh air to > for your health. Touch up is not that bad but takes more blending and > some sanding. You can successfully touch up but it is not that big of a > deal to spray a whole panel. > > The clearcoat hides so many flaws, it makes it much easier to work > with. My brother-in-law runs a body shop and they don't use any single > stage. > > One is not better than the other in every respect, you just have to > decide which way to go......I originally planned to go with lacquer for > my TD but then changed my mind and went with urethane. I'm glad I did > because it was easier to work with, gave me paint job that seems to be > accepted at shows without a problem and it rugged for driving. > > Mike > > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 16 Date: Sun, 12 Jun 2005 22:12:53 -0400 (EDT) From: Chip Old fold@bcpl.net> Subject: Re: Gasoline or paint remover? On Sun, 12 Jun 2005 09:13 -0500, 1939mgtb wrote: > BTW, lacquer WASN'T used on the cars new..... :-0 Cellulose Enamel (UK) = Nitrocellulose Laquer (US) -- Chip Old 1948 M.G. TC TC6710 XPAG7430 NEMGTR #2271 Cub Hill, Maryland fold@bcpl.net ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 17 Date: Sun, 12 Jun 2005 11:02:54 -0400 From: kwcp kwcp@comcast.net> Subject: Re: John: The LED light strips can be used on both neg & pos grounding. Just reverse the wire leads. All that will happen if you hook them up with the wrong polarity is that they won't light. I made a bracket that attaches to the spare tire carrier which keeps the light semi hidden behind the spare. The light shines through the spokes and can easily be seen by following cars. It is a JC Whitney item for about $12. Ken Porter TC4147 Manchester NH John Patterson wrote: >BlankHi TC Fans > I'm interested in installing a third center mounted brake light on my > luggage rack. I have >looked at these small LED strips/lights but they are listed for negative >ground cars. Have any of >you mounted a third center mounted light like this? It could be >disconnected for shows, etc. Any >recommendations would be greatly appreciated. >Thanks in advance >John Patterson, Frankfort, Michigan, TC 7025 > > > > > >[Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > >Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 18 Date: Sun, 12 Jun 2005 22:59:14 -0500 From: Charles Hill candahill@worldnet.att.net> Subject: Re: Gasoline or paint remover? Guys, unless you haven't noticed, lacquer is not an option for more and more areas. The solvents released are not environmentally friendly. The new stuff is more environmentally friendly. So what if it kills the painter. At least it doesn't kill any trees. Regards, Charles Hill ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 19 Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2005 16:21:24 +1000 From: "Jeff Redman" redcigar1@bigpond.com> Subject: RE: "2 pack" or lacquer FWIW... I've had some success using 2-pack paints in an ordinary car-port open to the elements on two sides. Being open also helps with the painter's continued breathing, as I'm damned if I can wear a respirator without fogging up my 'specs, and there always seems to be enough air floating around without piping it in via a diver's helmet, anyway the canvas suit and lead boots are a real pain and tend to slow your movements. Seriously...Aliens in the paint can largely be eliminated by hanging the panels upside-down from the roof beams and painting them thusly. Mind you the body tub takes a fair bit of juggling. Reddo -----Original Message----- From: mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com [mailto:mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Stephen D Stierman Sent: Monday, 13 June 2005 2:38 AM To: mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [mg-tabc] "2 pack" or lacquer This is a good topic and we could go on about it forever in terms of what should be used on our old cars. Yes perhaps the new stuff is a bit more durable, but then I won't be driving my TC every day, remember GM used it for years. The issue of applying two pack at home is lack of a controlled environment. I have done some of this but temperature and dust control is always a problem. Dust always settles in the paint because it takes longer to dry then lacquer and you still end up sanding and are left with nibs. If I had a paint booth I would have no problems. Make no mistake acrylic lacquer is not nitro cellulose lacquer. Yes it may chip a bit easier but it does not crack when put it on over the correct substrates. If you put it on over old paint that is not acrylic lacquer you may have a problem. I did a friend's Healey and my first Morgan 15 years ago in acrylic lacquer and they are both fine and dandy with no cracks or problems because they were bare metal resprays using the correct primers. Yes body work needs to be smooth with lacquer, but believe me, I do my own and it needs to be smooth under any paint system if you don't want to see it. Does base coat clear coat look right on a TC or for that matter any 50's or 60's British car? My opinion only, but I think I prefer single stage as more in keeping with originality. cheers, S. Stierman TC2911 Yahoo! Groups Links ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 20 Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2005 09:12:51 +0200 From: "Paroor" paroor@t-online.de> Subject: AW: Tire Pressure Dear Dog Pulver, Most of the tyres do have a recommendation of air pressure for the normal load conditions casted on the side wall where you can also read the production date of the tyre. Madhu -----Urspr ngliche Nachricht----- Von: mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com [mailto:mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com]Im Auftrag von DougPulver@aol.com Gesendet: Montag, 13. Juni 2005 01:37 An: mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com Betreff: [mg-tabc] Tire Pressure A customer came into my friends shop yesterday with his TC. He has 16" wheels and the Dunlop tires looked "low". I checked the tire pressure and it was 16 pounds on all four tires. I know we have had this discussion several times in the past and the general consensus seemed to be that tire pressure between 26 - 30 pounds was OK. Is that still a good rule of thumb for the tires on 16" wheels? Doug Pulver TC 5850 (with 6 new studs in the RH bearing carrier - one of which is now spinning as I tighten up the brake drum holding nut - aaaaaarrrrrrgggghghhhhhhh!) San Diego, CA ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 21 Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2005 06:53:39 -0400 From: JohnHWSteedman@aol.com Subject: Re: Tank end-plates My new tank end-plates are already rusting after only 3,00 miles. Is there anyone in the UK who could suggest a craftsman who could make me a set in brass? I imagine it would be a lt less challenging than making repro radiator shells. Best wishes, John Steedman TC 0301 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Yahoo! Groups Links [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 22 Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2005 06:05:17 -0700 (PDT) From: Terry Sanders taterry@pacbell.net> Subject: RE: "2 pack" or lacquer Our resident paint expert is Rev. Bill Hentzen who has been in the paint manufacturing business for a life time. Surprised he hasn't spoken up. From what I know, Ray has it right but I'd like to change the subject slightly. What ever paint system you use, what is the best way to keep the touch up remainders fresh for future use? I was told in a PPG store recently that if the hardner for DP40 was ever opened, it would now be done for, there is no shelf life for it. I try to keep the left overs in smaller cans and upside down to prevent oxygen ingress but should I also keep them in the fridg or in a vacuum bottle??? Terry in Oakland Jeff Redman redcigar1@bigpond.com> wrote: FWIW... I've had some success using 2-pack paints in an ordinary car-port open to the elements on two sides. Being open also helps with the painter's continued breathing, as I'm damned if I can wear a respirator without fogging up my 'specs, and there always seems to be enough air floating around without piping it in via a diver's helmet, anyway the canvas suit and lead boots are a real pain and tend to slow your movements. Seriously...Aliens in the paint can largely be eliminated by hanging the panels upside-down from the roof beams and painting them thusly. Mind you the body tub takes a fair bit of juggling. Reddo -----Original Message----- From: mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com [mailto:mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Stephen D Stierman Sent: Monday, 13 June 2005 2:38 AM To: mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [mg-tabc] "2 pack" or lacquer This is a good topic and we could go on about it forever in terms of what should be used on our old cars. Yes perhaps the new stuff is a bit more durable, but then I won't be driving my TC every day, remember GM used it for years. The issue of applying two pack at home is lack of a controlled environment. I have done some of this but temperature and dust control is always a problem. Dust always settles in the paint because it takes longer to dry then lacquer and you still end up sanding and are left with nibs. If I had a paint booth I would have no problems. Make no mistake acrylic lacquer is not nitro cellulose lacquer. Yes it may chip a bit easier but it does not crack when put it on over the correct substrates. If you put it on over old paint that is not acrylic lacquer you may have a problem. I did a friend's Healey and my first Morgan 15 years ago in acrylic lacquer and they are both fine and dandy with no cracks or problems because they were bare metal resprays using the correct primers. Yes body work needs to be smooth with lacquer, but believe me, I do my own and it needs to be smooth under any paint system if you don't want to see it. Does base coat clear coat look right on a TC or for that matter any 50's or 60's British car? My opinion only, but I think I prefer single stage as more in keeping with originality. cheers, S. Stierman TC2911 Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 23 Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2005 10:16:41 -0400 From: "Leinen, Robert" rleinen@ci.dearborn.mi.us> Subject: RE: Tire Pressure Madhu: Although well intended, your advice is incorrect. The tire pressure listed on the sidewall of any tire is the maximum pressure for that particular tire, as determined by the manufacturer, regardless of what vehicle it is mounted on. As you are aware, one tire can fit many different vehicles. Each vehicle will likely require a different tire pressure due to many factors, weight, suspension, shocks, load, etc. The maximum pressure on the sidewall is typically somewhere above 40 pounds. That much pressure would cause serious ride, handling and braking problems in most cars. Bob Leinen Deputy Director of Public Works City of Dearborn 2951 Greenfield Dearborn, MI 48120 Ph: (313) 943-2073 Fax: (313) 943-2067 E-mail: rleinen@ci.dearborn.mi.us -----Original Message----- From: mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com [mailto:mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Paroor Sent: Monday, June 13, 2005 3:13 AM To: DougPulver@aol.com; mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com Subject: AW: [mg-tabc] Tire Pressure Dear Dog Pulver, Most of the tyres do have a recommendation of air pressure for the normal load conditions casted on the side wall where you can also read the production date of the tyre. Madhu -----Urspr ngliche Nachricht----- Von: mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com [mailto:mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com]Im Auftrag von DougPulver@aol.com Gesendet: Montag, 13. Juni 2005 01:37 An: mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com Betreff: [mg-tabc] Tire Pressure A customer came into my friends shop yesterday with his TC. He has 16" wheels and the Dunlop tires looked "low". I checked the tire pressure and it was 16 pounds on all four tires. I know we have had this discussion several times in the past and the general consensus seemed to be that tire pressure between 26 - 30 pounds was OK. Is that still a good rule of thumb for the tires on 16" wheels? Doug Pulver TC 5850 (with 6 new studs in the RH bearing carrier - one of which is now spinning as I tighten up the brake drum holding nut - aaaaaarrrrrrgggghghhhhhhh!) San Diego, CA Yahoo! Groups Links ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Links ------------------------------------------------------------------------