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Rear axle question
Posted: Fri May 27, 2005 12:20 am
by davjak@aol.com
Setting up the rear axle as per "TCs Forever" to eliminate gear oil wetted
brake shoes, I can't seem to find a Tool supplier that has the correct socket
to correctly loosen/tighten the castellated nuts that retain the axle
bearings. British tool in Ohio is out of stock and theirs are for the replacement
style nuts I am told. Replacement nuts from Moss are $49.95 per side Yikes!
My castellated nuts (on the car) have not been attacked by an ape with a
cold chisel so I figured I would re-use them after bearing replacement. Are the
replacement hexagonal nuts the best option?
Thanks,
Dave TC5228,TC5041
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: Rear axle question
Posted: Fri May 27, 2005 2:27 am
by ian thomson
Use Bob or Rogers nuts (ahem) they are cheaper and
foolproof.
Ian Thomson.
---
davjak@aol.com wrote:
> Setting up the rear axle as per "TCs Forever" to
> eliminate gear oil wetted
> brake shoes, I can't seem to find a Tool supplier
> that has the correct socket
> to correctly loosen/tighten the castellated nuts
> that retain the axle
> bearings. British tool in Ohio is out of stock and
> theirs are for the replacement
> style nuts I am told. Replacement nuts from Moss are
> $49.95 per side Yikes!
> My castellated nuts (on the car) have not been
> attacked by an ape with a
> cold chisel so I figured I would re-use them after
> bearing replacement. Are the
> replacement hexagonal nuts the best option?
> Thanks,
> Dave TC5228,TC5041
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
mg-tabc-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
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Re: Rear axle question
Posted: Fri May 27, 2005 4:03 am
by Bob
Dave,
When I removed the original nuts from TC 3443 I needed the same tool that
you are looking for. I ended up going to a local auto parts store and
purchasing a socket used for the front axle nuts on a 4-wheel drive truck.
The 4 prongs that engage the castellated portion of the nut were correctly
spaced but I did have to work on the inside of the socket with a die grinder
to get the walls of the socket opened up to the correct size to slip down
over the nut. Not knowing what size I needed, I measured the nut (across the
flats) and bought the socket that was the closest to the size I needed. (I
just looked at the socket I have and it is not marked as to size.) I
believe that this subject was discussed previously so there is probably more
detailed information in the archives.
After removing the nuts, I replaced axles and nuts with new ones made by Bob
Grunau. His replacement nuts with built in seals take a standard sized
socket available most places that sell tools.
Bob McClaren
TC 3443
Virginia Beach, VA, USA I
Re: Rear axle question
Posted: Fri May 27, 2005 4:29 am
by ian thomson
The time honoured tool for removing these is a
drift...or a screwdriver and hammer...or a chisel....
Ian Thomson.
--- Bob bobmgtc@cox.net> wrote:
> Dave,
>
> When I removed the original nuts from TC 3443 I
> needed the same tool that
> you are looking for. I ended up going to a local
> auto parts store and
> purchasing a socket used for the front axle nuts on
> a 4-wheel drive truck.
> The 4 prongs that engage the castellated portion of
> the nut were correctly
> spaced but I did have to work on the inside of the
> socket with a die grinder
> to get the walls of the socket opened up to the
> correct size to slip down
> over the nut. Not knowing what size I needed, I
> measured the nut (across the
> flats) and bought the socket that was the closest to
> the size I needed. (I
> just looked at the socket I have and it is not
> marked as to size.) I
> believe that this subject was discussed previously
> so there is probably more
> detailed information in the archives.
>
> After removing the nuts, I replaced axles and nuts
> with new ones made by Bob
> Grunau. His replacement nuts with built in seals
> take a standard sized
> socket available most places that sell tools.
>
> Bob McClaren
> TC 3443
> Virginia Beach, VA, USA I
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
mg-tabc-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>
>
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rear axle question
Posted: Mon Aug 14, 2006 10:03 pm
by Mike Duvall
Hi all, following Bob Grunau's advice from an email posting a few
months ago, I pulled the diff out of my TA axle to check the pinion
bearing. To my pleasant surprise, roller bearings had been installed
and the unit showed little wear. I think it may have had the stronger
axles installed as well because they look like a much newer material
than I have seen in the past. However the rear hubs are full of grease
on the bearing side. This struck me as odd. Shouldn't the rear axle
oil be lubricating the rear bearings? Should I replace the grease or
should I just clean it out?
Thanks, Mike
Re: rear axle question
Posted: Fri Aug 18, 2006 5:07 am
by Roger Furneaux
hi Mike - back in the "good old days" rear hubs had grease nipples, and they
were filled with Castrol Heavy grease, which (alledgedly) stopped oil
getting out of the axle. Modern all-purpose grease will not work as well and
eventually oil will escape; new hubs do not have nipples, therefore not much
grease but a lot of oil!!! Fitting lip-sealed hub nuts from myself or Bob
will at least stop that, bearings only need enough grease to fill them (not
a whole hub full) or can be greased-for-life shielded types.
ocTagonally
TCRoger
Mike Duvall asked:
> Hi all, following Bob Grunau's advice from an email posting a few
> months ago, I pulled the diff out of my TA axle to check the pinion
> bearing. To my pleasant surprise, roller bearings had been installed
> and the unit showed little wear. I think it may have had the stronger
> axles installed as well because they look like a much newer material
> than I have seen in the past. However the rear hubs are full of grease
> on the bearing side. This struck me as odd. Shouldn't the rear axle
> oil be lubricating the rear bearings? Should I replace the grease or
> should I just clean it out?