Crank case removal

[Paroor]

Dear all, I am having some problem removing the crank case. Motor overhaul with all new bearings, Volvo rear oil seal, cylinder head conversion for lead free fuel, no money saved. Started the motor and it is running smooth. But even then I made mistakes. Opposite to the oil draining hole p.owner put another hole. May be with the intention of installing a switch or feeler for temperature gauge. But it is very close to the exhaust pipe. So they dropped the program and fixed the hole with a bolt and nut with two rubber washes inside and out side. It looked clean, but it is not tight and oil is coming out when the engine running and warm. So I tried to remove the crankcase. After removing all the bolts the crankcase came down a bit but the front part is hanging in between the steering tie rod and the motor block. Is this normal ? or is there any other way get the crank case out with out removing the tie rod ? The bonnet fit problem is the next. It started with the wrong water outlet. The p.owner replaced this with new one may be because the engine bearer plate was bend or some other reason. Now I changed every thing to the original position. So the problem started. The radiator top part is leaning to the front. The bonnet got a very bad fit here. So I got a TC original old water connection. My God !!! he wanted 70 B.Pounds. But came down to 18. It is a scrape thing out of Aluminium. Out of four holes two are worn out in the inside edges. Leak is for sure. It had to be welded and machined to make it usable. But I hope with that bow the radiator and the bonnet will sit and fit in the proper position. I think I can dismantle TC 0448 in a dark room. It is like imposition in the language school. Only problem will be those different spanners in the dark. I do not know why I started this project. Madhu TC 0448

[ian thomson]

HI Madhu. Just a few points. What you are trying to remove is not the crankcase but the sump. In the US they call it the oil pan and I expect others have even more names. The crankcase is the cast lump it bolts up to but I can see how the confusion occurred as the crankshaft is as much in one as the other. Yes you will have to remove the steering rods. They come off easily though: just take the end plugs out. I would be very wary about the sealing of the extra hole in the sump. If the sealing washers are rubber the oil may well destroy them with trgic consequences. I am glad that you are trying to get the bonnet fit right. The car can look all wrong if it is not right. You have my sympathy over the costs of some used parts, especially from some of the dealers who know how scarce they are (no names of course but I bet you all know who I am talking about). Keep up the good work, have a glass of schnapps and it will all be worth it in the end. Ian Thomson. ------ --- Paroor paroor@t-online.de> wrote:

> Dear all, > I am having some problem removing the crank > case. > > Motor overhaul with all new bearings, Volvo rear oil > seal, cylinder head > conversion for lead free fuel, no money saved. > Started the motor and it is > running smooth. > > But even then I made mistakes. > > Opposite to the oil draining hole p.owner put > another hole. May be with > the intention of installing a switch or feeler for > temperature gauge. But it > is very close to the exhaust pipe. So they dropped > the program and fixed the > hole with a bolt and nut with two rubber washes > inside and out side. It > looked clean, but it is not tight and oil is coming > out when the engine > running and warm. So I tried to remove the > crankcase. After removing all the > bolts the crankcase came down a bit but the front > part is hanging in between > the steering tie rod and the motor block. > > Is this normal ? or is there any other way get the > crank case out with out > removing the tie rod ? > > > The bonnet fit problem is the next. It started with > the wrong water outlet. > The p.owner replaced this with new one may be > because the engine bearer > plate was bend or some other reason. Now I changed > every thing to the > original position. So the problem started. The > radiator top part is leaning > to the front. The bonnet got a very bad fit here. > > So I got a TC original old water connection. My God > !!! he wanted 70 > B.Pounds. But came down to 18. It is a scrape thing > out of Aluminium. Out of > four holes two are worn out in the inside edges. > Leak is for sure. It had to > be welded and machined to make it usable. But I hope > with that bow the > radiator and the bonnet will sit and fit in the > proper position. > > I think I can dismantle TC 0448 in a dark room. > > It is like imposition in the language school. Only > problem will be those > different spanners in the dark. > > I do not know why I started this project. > > Madhu > TC 0448 > > > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > mg-tabc-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com > > > > >

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[Paroor]

Dear Ian Thomson, You are correct. I was writing about oil sump. Today I got a small three leg puller, using it I was able to get the tie rod and then oil sump out. I friend of mine enlarged the unwanted hole in the sump. Then he made a aluminium plug and pressed it from inside leaving a "v" gap for welding. The welder did a marvellous job. After welding it we flexed the surface and polished area. Now it is impossible to make out where it is welded. The Aluminium water outlet was so bad. But the welder put so much of new material all over the week area. It is very strong and also looking very nice after machining. So now I can assemble everything in a day or two. It is public holyday here on 26 May. Thanks for the advise. Madhu -----Urspr ngliche Nachricht----- Von: ian thomson [mailto:i.thomson@talk21.com] Gesendet: Mittwoch, 25. Mai 2005 10:31 HI Madhu. Just a few points. What you are trying to remove is not the crankcase but the sump. In the US they call it the oil pan and I expect others have even more names. The crankcase is the cast lump it bolts up to but I can see how the confusion occurred as the crankshaft is as much in one as the other. Yes you will have to remove the steering rods. They come off easily though: just take the end plugs out. I would be very wary about the sealing of the extra hole in the sump. If the sealing washers are rubber the oil may well destroy them with trgic consequences. I am glad that you are trying to get the bonnet fit right. The car can look all wrong if it is not right. You have my sympathy over the costs of some used parts, especially from some of the dealers who know how scarce they are (no names of course but I bet you all know who I am talking about). Keep up the good work, have a glass of schnapps and it will all be worth it in the end. Ian Thomson.

[David Lodge]

Hello Madhu, It has not escaped my attention that every front engine bearer plate that I've come across has been different to some degree. In previous posts I have noted a frequent lack of interchangeability (in that one part won't necessarily gibe with others when transferred to a different car) in certain components - front engine bearer plate, radiator, bonnet windscreen mounting brackets - which I put down to Abingdon "tweaking" at the final assembly stage. What say others? Regards, David Lodge ----- ORIGINAL MESSAGE ----- From: "Paroor" paroor@t-online.de> To: mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com Subject: [mg-tabc] Crank case removal Date: 25.5.2005 - 10:02:54

> Dear all, > I am having some problem removing the crank case. > > Motor overhaul with all new bearings, Volvo rear oil > seal, cylinder head > conversion for lead free fuel, no money saved. Started > the motor and it is > running smooth. > > But even then I made mistakes. > > Opposite to the oil draining hole p.owner put another > hole. May be with > the intention of installing a switch or feeler for > temperature gauge. But it > is very close to the exhaust pipe. So they dropped the > program and fixed the > hole with a bolt and nut with two rubber washes inside > and out side. It > looked clean, but it is not tight and oil is coming out > when the engine > running and warm. So I tried to remove the crankcase. > After removing all the > bolts the crankcase came down a bit but the front part > is hanging in between > the steering tie rod and the motor block. > > Is this normal ? or is there any other way get the > crank case out with out > removing the tie rod ? > > > The bonnet fit problem is the next. It started with the > wrong water outlet. > The p.owner replaced this with new one may be because > the engine bearer > plate was bend or some other reason. Now I changed > every thing to the > original position. So the problem started. The radiator > top part is leaning > to the front. The bonnet got a very bad fit here. > > So I got a TC original old water connection. My God !!! > he wanted 70 > B.Pounds. But came down to 18. It is a scrape thing out > of Aluminium. Out of > four holes two are worn out in the inside edges. Leak > is for sure. It had to > be welded and machined to make it usable. But I hope > with that bow the > radiator and the bonnet will sit and fit in the proper > position. > > I think I can dismantle TC 0448 in a dark room. > > It is like imposition in the language school. Only > problem will be those > different spanners in the dark. > > I do not know why I started this project. > > Madhu > TC 0448 > > > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > >

[Paroor]

Hello David Lodge, I got another engine bearer plate from the local shop. There was a small crack. We made grove and welded it. Compared to the one in the car it was much better. I repaired the old one and kept it reserve. Wind screen mounting brackets are all there. I am not going to chrome plate it now. My be this winter. It is going to be next headache Madhu -----Urspr ngliche Nachricht----- Von: mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com [mailto:mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com]Im Auftrag von David Lodge Gesendet: Donnerstag, 26. Mai 2005 04:54 Hello Madhu, It has not escaped my attention that every front engine bearer plate that I've come across has been different to some degree. In previous posts I have noted a frequent lack of interchangeability (in that one part won't necessarily gibe with others when transferred to a different car) in certain components - front engine bearer plate, radiator, bonnet windscreen mounting brackets - which I put down to Abingdon "tweaking" at the final assembly stage. What say others? Regards, David Lodge

[ian thomson]

I can agree with David here. I have two front bearer plates and both have the mounting tubes displaced to some degree. This would be a big "tweak" though as a lot of force would be needed to bend them. I think that the tubes would have to be rewelded to suit the car. Would the factory have gone that far (and presumably with so many). Ian Thomson. --- David Lodge archie_ponsonby@post.cz> wrote:

> Hello Madhu, > > It has not escaped my attention that every front > engine bearer > plate that I've come across has been different to > some degree. > In previous posts I have noted a frequent lack of > interchangeability (in that one part won't > necessarily gibe with > others when transferred to a different car) in > certain components > - front engine bearer plate, radiator, bonnet > windscreen mounting > brackets - which I put down to Abingdon "tweaking" > at the final > assembly stage. What say others? > > Regards, David Lodge > > > > ----- ORIGINAL MESSAGE ----- > From: "Paroor" paroor@t-online.de> > To: mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com > Subject: [mg-tabc] Crank case removal > Date: 25.5.2005 - 10:02:54 > > > Dear all, > > I am having some problem removing the crank case. > > > > Motor overhaul with all new bearings, Volvo rear > oil > > seal, cylinder head > > conversion for lead free fuel, no money saved. > Started > > the motor and it is > > running smooth. > > > > But even then I made mistakes. > > > > Opposite to the oil draining hole p.owner put > another > > hole. May be with > > the intention of installing a switch or feeler for > > temperature gauge. But it > > is very close to the exhaust pipe. So they dropped > the > > program and fixed the > > hole with a bolt and nut with two rubber washes > inside > > and out side. It > > looked clean, but it is not tight and oil is > coming out > > when the engine > > running and warm. So I tried to remove the > crankcase. > > After removing all the > > bolts the crankcase came down a bit but the front > part > > is hanging in between > > the steering tie rod and the motor block. > > > > Is this normal ? or is there any other way get the > > crank case out with out > > removing the tie rod ? > > > > > > The bonnet fit problem is the next. It started > with the > > wrong water outlet. > > The p.owner replaced this with new one may be > because > > the engine bearer > > plate was bend or some other reason. Now I changed > > every thing to the > > original position. So the problem started. The > radiator > > top part is leaning > > to the front. The bonnet got a very bad fit here. > > > > So I got a TC original old water connection. My > God !!! > > he wanted 70 > > B.Pounds. But came down to 18. It is a scrape > thing out > > of Aluminium. Out of > > four holes two are worn out in the inside edges. > Leak > > is for sure. It had to > > be welded and machined to make it usable. But I > hope > > with that bow the > > radiator and the bonnet will sit and fit in the > proper > > position. > > > > I think I can dismantle TC 0448 in a dark room. > > > > It is like imposition in the language school. Only > > problem will be those > > different spanners in the dark. > > > > I do not know why I started this project. > > > > Madhu > > TC 0448 > > > > > > > > > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > mg-tabc-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com > > > > >

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[ian thomson]

Hi Madhu. I wish I had a local shop which sold XPAG engine bearer plates, life would be so much easier. Ian Thomson --- --- Paroor paroor@t-online.de> wrote:

> Hello David Lodge, > I got another engine > bearer plate from the local > shop. There was a small crack. We made grove and > welded it. Compared to the > one in the car it was much better. I repaired the > old one and kept it > reserve. > Wind screen mounting brackets are all there. I am > not going to chrome > plate it now. My be this winter. It is going to be > next headache > > Madhu > > -----Urspr ngliche Nachricht----- > Von: mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com > [mailto:mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com]Im Auftrag von > David Lodge > Gesendet: Donnerstag, 26. Mai 2005 04:54 > > Hello Madhu, > > It has not escaped my attention that every front > engine bearer > plate that I've come across has been different to > some degree. > In previous posts I have noted a frequent lack of > interchangeability (in that one part won't > necessarily gibe with > others when transferred to a different car) in > certain components > - front engine bearer plate, radiator, bonnet > windscreen mounting > brackets - which I put down to Abingdon "tweaking" > at the final > assembly stage. What say others? > > Regards, David Lodge > > > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > mg-tabc-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com > > > > >

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[Bob Grunau]

Ian, A TC engine bearer plate can be made from a Morris 10 bearer plate. Not difficult to add the TC round tubes on the end of a Morris 10 plate. The flat part of the two plates are exactly the same. Morris 10s can be found here in Canada and I'm sure are much more available in the UK. Y/TD/TF bearer plates could be used but need more modification. Bob Grunau -----Original Message----- From: mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com [mailto:mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of ian thomson Sent: Thursday, May 26, 2005 4:43 AM To: mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: AW: [mg-tabc] Crank case removal Hi Madhu. I wish I had a local shop which sold XPAG engine bearer plates, life would be so much easier. Ian Thomson --- --- Paroor paroor@t-online.de> wrote:

> Hello David Lodge, > I got another engine > bearer plate from the local > shop. There was a small crack. We made grove and > welded it. Compared to the > one in the car it was much better. I repaired the > old one and kept it > reserve. > Wind screen mounting brackets are all there. I am > not going to chrome > plate it now. My be this winter. It is going to be > next headache > > Madhu > > -----Urspr ngliche Nachricht----- > Von: mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com > [mailto:mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com]Im Auftrag von > David Lodge > Gesendet: Donnerstag, 26. Mai 2005 04:54 > > Hello Madhu, > > It has not escaped my attention that every front > engine bearer > plate that I've come across has been different to > some degree. > In previous posts I have noted a frequent lack of > interchangeability (in that one part won't > necessarily gibe with > others when transferred to a different car) in > certain components > - front engine bearer plate, radiator, bonnet > windscreen mounting > brackets - which I put down to Abingdon "tweaking" > at the final > assembly stage. What say others? > > Regards, David Lodge > > > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > mg-tabc-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com > > > > >

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[Liz Harris]

You are probably bang on there David...(and at the risk of getting `run outa town on a rail` if any of you guys ever catch up with me)... just like those cars beginning with `M` are still made... David Lodge archie_ponsonby@post.cz> wrote:Hello Madhu, It has not escaped my attention that every front engine bearer plate that I've come across has been different to some degree. In previous posts I have noted a frequent lack of interchangeability (in that one part won't necessarily gibe with others when transferred to a different car) in certain components - front engine bearer plate, radiator, bonnet windscreen mounting brackets - which I put down to Abingdon "tweaking" at the final assembly stage. What say others? Regards, David Lodge ----- ORIGINAL MESSAGE ----- From: "Paroor" To: mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com Subject: [mg-tabc] Crank case removal Date: 25.5.2005 - 10:02:54

> Dear all, > I am having some problem removing the crank case. > > Motor overhaul with all new bearings, Volvo rear oil > seal, cylinder head > conversion for lead free fuel, no money saved. Started > the motor and it is > running smooth. > > But even then I made mistakes. > > Opposite to the oil draining hole p.owner put another > hole. May be with > the intention of installing a switch or feeler for > temperature gauge. But it > is very close to the exhaust pipe. So they dropped the > program and fixed the > hole with a bolt and nut with two rubber washes inside > and out side. It > looked clean, but it is not tight and oil is coming out > when the engine > running and warm. So I tried to remove the crankcase. > After removing all the > bolts the crankcase came down a bit but the front part > is hanging in between > the steering tie rod and the motor block. > > Is this normal ? or is there any other way get the > crank case out with out > removing the tie rod ? > > > The bonnet fit problem is the next. It started with the > wrong water outlet. > The p.owner replaced this with new one may be because > the engine bearer > plate was bend or some other reason. Now I changed > every thing to the > original position. So the problem started. The radiator > top part is leaning > to the front. The bonnet got a very bad fit here. > > So I got a TC original old water connection. My God !!! > he wanted 70 > B.Pounds. But came down to 18. It is a scrape thing out > of Aluminium. Out of > four holes two are worn out in the inside edges. Leak > is for sure. It had to > be welded and machined to make it usable. But I hope > with that bow the > radiator and the bonnet will sit and fit in the proper > position. > > I think I can dismantle TC 0448 in a dark room. > > It is like imposition in the language school. Only > problem will be those > different spanners in the dark. > > I do not know why I started this project. > > Madhu > TC 0448 > > > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > >

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[David Lodge]

Hello Ian, Another factor I didn't mention is, of course, crash damage to which most of our cars have sustained at some point. Regards, David Lodge ----- ORIGINAL MESSAGE ----- From: "ian thomson" i.thomson@talk21.com> To: "David Lodge" archie_ponsonby@post.cz>,paroor@t-online.de,mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [mg-tabc] Crank case removal Date: 26.5.2005 - 10:39:23

> I can agree with David here. I have two front bearer > plates and both have the mounting tubes displaced to > some degree. This would be a big "tweak" though as a > lot of force would be needed to bend them. I think > that the tubes would have to be rewelded to suit the > car. Would the factory have gone that far (and > presumably with so many). > > > Ian Thomson. > > --- David Lodge archie_ponsonby@post.cz> wrote: > > Hello Madhu, > > > > It has not escaped my attention that every front > > engine bearer > > plate that I've come across has been different to > > some degree. > > In previous posts I have noted a frequent lack of > > interchangeability (in that one part won't > > necessarily gibe with > > others when transferred to a different car) in > > certain components > > - front engine bearer plate, radiator, bonnet > > windscreen mounting > > brackets - which I put down to Abingdon "tweaking" > > at the final > > assembly stage. What say others? > > > > Regards, David Lodge > > > > > > > > ----- ORIGINAL MESSAGE ----- > > From: "Paroor" paroor@t-online.de> > > To: mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com > > Subject: [mg-tabc] Crank case removal > > Date: 25.5.2005 - 10:02:54 > > > > > Dear all, > > > I am having some problem removing the crank case. > > > > > > Motor overhaul with all new bearings, Volvo rear > > oil > > > seal, cylinder head > > > conversion for lead free fuel, no money saved. > > Started > > > the motor and it is > > > running smooth. > > > > > > But even then I made mistakes. > > > > > > Opposite to the oil draining hole p.owner put > > another > > > hole. May be with > > > the intention of installing a switch or feeler for > > > temperature gauge. But it > > > is very close to the exhaust pipe. So they dropped > > the > > > program and fixed the > > > hole with a bolt and nut with two rubber washes > > inside > > > and out side. It > > > looked clean, but it is not tight and oil is > > coming out > > > when the engine > > > running and warm. So I tried to remove the > > crankcase. > > > After removing all the > > > bolts the crankcase came down a bit but the front > > part > > > is hanging in between > > > the steering tie rod and the motor block. > > > > > > Is this normal ? or is there any other way get the > > > crank case out with out > > > removing the tie rod ? > > > > > > > > > The bonnet fit problem is the next. It started > > with the > > > wrong water outlet. > > > The p.owner replaced this with new one may be > > because > > > the engine bearer > > > plate was bend or some other reason. Now I changed > > > every thing to the > > > original position. So the problem started. The > > radiator > > > top part is leaning > > > to the front. The bonnet got a very bad fit here. > > > > > > So I got a TC original old water connection. My > > God !!! > > > he wanted 70 > > > B.Pounds. But came down to 18. It is a scrape > > thing out > > > of Aluminium. Out of > > > four holes two are worn out in the inside edges. > > Leak > > > is for sure. It had to > > > be welded and machined to make it usable. But I > > hope > > > with that bow the > > > radiator and the bonnet will sit and fit in the > > proper > > > position. > > > > > > I think I can dismantle TC 0448 in a dark room. > > > > > > It is like imposition in the language school. Only > > > problem will be those > > > different spanners in the dark. > > > > > > I do not know why I started this project. > > > > > > Madhu > > > TC 0448 > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > mg-tabc-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ___________________________________________________________ > > Yahoo! Messenger - NEW crystal clear PC to PC calling > worldwide with voicemail http://uk.messenger.yahoo.com >