Wilsons Sandbox

Posted: **Mon Feb 14, 2005 1:39 pm**

Listers, Can the handbrake be removed without removing the muffler? The ratchet on my handbrake is not working so I am trying to remove the the assembly, but the tailpipe and muffler are in the way. Is there a better way to do this? Dave Stout TC1176 __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail - Helps protect you from nasty viruses. http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail

Posted: **Mon Feb 14, 2005 2:33 pm**

Dave I do not believe that handbrake assembly can be removed easily, but I think the ratchet assembly can beworked on with the handle and shaft in position, removethe boot and study the situation. I think more than the muffler has to be removed to get that assembly off the chassis Joe Curto [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Posted: **Sun Dec 30, 2012 6:38 am**

Good morning, Last summer a lister wrote regarding the 2 plates that are located on the rear axle backing plates where tha emergency brake cable goes through. Along with the pics it concludes that both plates are located on the inboard side of the rear back plate. Sherrell indicated 1 on either side. The writer indicated that the car in the photos was not on the road since the mid-seventies and likely original. However, that leaves almost 30 years prior to that for someone to alter the plates. Since I assembled mine as per Sherrell I am wondering wether to change it. I remember someone saying that there is a clipper blue TC in southern California that is all original. Has anyone checked it? Can anyone shed any light on this question? Thanks and Happy New Year. Len Bonnay TC8154 Canada

Posted: **Sun Dec 30, 2012 9:59 am**

#ygrps-yiv-1457649604 .ygrps-yiv-1457649604ygrp-photo-title { CLEAR:both;FONT-SIZE:smaller;OVERFLOW:hidden;WIDTH:75px;HEIGHT:15px;TEXT-ALIGN:center;} #ygrps-yiv-1457649604 DIV.ygrps-yiv-1457649604ygrp-photo { BORDER-RIGHT:black 1px solid;BACKGROUND-POSITION:center 50%;BORDER-TOP:black 1px solid;BORDER-LEFT:black 1px solid;WIDTH:62px;BORDER-BOTTOM:black 1px solid;BACKGROUND-REPEAT:no-repeat;HEIGHT:62px;BACKGROUND-COLOR:white;} #ygrps-yiv-1457649604 DIV.ygrps-yiv-1457649604photo-title A { TEXT-DECORATION:none;} #ygrps-yiv-1457649604 DIV.ygrps-yiv-1457649604photo-title A:active { TEXT-DECORATION:none;} #ygrps-yiv-1457649604 DIV.ygrps-yiv-1457649604photo-title A:hover { TEXT-DECORATION:none;} #ygrps-yiv-1457649604 DIV.ygrps-yiv-1457649604photo-title A:visited { TEXT-DECORATION:none;} #ygrps-yiv-1457649604 DIV.ygrps-yiv-1457649604attach-table DIV.ygrps-yiv-1457649604attach-row { CLEAR:both;} #ygrps-yiv-1457649604 DIV.ygrps-yiv-1457649604attach-table DIV.ygrps-yiv-1457649604attach-row DIV { FLOAT:left;} #ygrps-yiv-1457649604 P { CLEAR:both;PADDING-RIGHT:0px;PADDING-LEFT:0px;PADDING-BOTTOM:3px;OVERFLOW:hidden;PADDING-TOP:15px;} #ygrps-yiv-1457649604 DIV.ygrps-yiv-1457649604ygrp-file { WIDTH:30px;} #ygrps-yiv-1457649604 DIV.ygrps-yiv-1457649604attach-table DIV.ygrps-yiv-1457649604attach-row DIV DIV A { TEXT-DECORATION:none;} #ygrps-yiv-1457649604 DIV.ygrps-yiv-1457649604attach-table DIV.ygrps-yiv-1457649604attach-row DIV DIV SPAN { FONT-WEIGHT:normal;} #ygrps-yiv-1457649604 DIV.ygrps-yiv-1457649604ygrp-file-title { FONT-WEIGHT:bold;} hello Len - that was me! So two cars off the road for decades, and probably not altered from new. I have highlighted my last sentence, which (to me) makes perfect sense. The relevant texts were: I second that! Am just starting on a complete back axle removed from a basket case car. The owner had removed the handbrake cables, but the back plates have witness-marks only on the outside, where both plates must have been. Nothing on the brake side. [b]It makes more sense to have the two plates together, to hold the end of the cable and the washers more snugly. [/b]Roger Devon Russ Wilson wrote:

> Here

are photos showing the two clamping plates that secure the end of

> the

cable as they were found on a very old installation (maybe original

> -

it's been off the road for >35 years), on TC 6819. Both plates are on

>

the back side (differential side) of the brake backing plate. The order

> is: backing plate, gasket, larger plate (the one with the slot),

smaller

> plate. > > Sherrell shows the larger plate on the

front side (brake side) of the

> backing plate, presumably with the gasket

under it, and the smaller

> plate on the back side. I know both

configurations work, and I can't

> see why it matters. > > The

various pieces at the end of the cable are positioned as follows:

> flat

washer on the inside of the assembly to bridge the slot in the

> large

plate giving the spring a smooth surface to push on; felt washer

> on the

outside (back side) to act as a grease seal; split washer to let

> excess

cable grease escape instead of being forced into the brakes. You

>

can see the felt and split washers in my second photo. (BTW, the upper

> bolt is backwards in these photos. Both bolts had the nuts

on the side

> shown in the photos.)

----- Original Message ----- [b]From:[/b] ljbmg@cogeco.ca [b]To:[/b] mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com [b]Sent:[/b] Sunday, December 30, 2012 2:39 PM [b]Subject:[/b] [mg-tabc] Handbrake Good morning, Last summer a lister wrote regarding the 2 plates that are located on the rear axle backing plates where tha emergency brake cable goes through. Along with the pics it concludes that both plates are located on the inboard side of the rear back plate. Sherrell indicated 1 on either side. The writer indicated that the car in the photos was not on the road since the mid-seventies and likely original. However, that leaves almost 30 years prior to that for someone to alter the plates. Since I assembled mine as per Sherrell I am wondering wether to change it. I remember someone saying that there is a clipper blue TC in southern California that is all original. Has anyone checked it? Can anyone shed any light on this question? Thanks and Happy New Year. Len Bonnay TC8154 Canada

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Posted: **Wed Jun 01, 2016 8:55 am**

I'm having a nightmare with the handbrake. I don't mind nightmares with Sharon Stone, but handbrakes, no. When I rebuilt the brakes I couldn't get the handbrake nactuating arm to retrcat because the arm that fits on the cable would not retract past the guid bracket screwed to the top of the sho. In the end, after hours of trying to figure out what was wrong I just left it off. It would appear the the arm that goes across the top, just under the wheel cylinder is dropping because the guide isn't there. So, I've put the guide back on and I'm back to square one. I've got the drum on but it's locked solid. I've slackened the cable but the shoes are pressed hard against the drum because the arm won't retract. I'm suspicious of the new handbrake cable on this side and wondered if the ferrule that holds the cable to the chassis bracket by the front edge of the rear wheel could be in the wrong position thereby holding the cable out all the time. I'm just going to undo the two screws and see if that helps. But in the meantime if anyone has any ideas, please shout. A confused and tired Norman TC10178

Posted: **Wed Jun 01, 2016 9:18 am**

Norman, Perhaps just backing off the handbrake adjuster nuts near the handle would create some slack. Cheers, Lee Jacobsen, Dearborn, MI TC0780 -----Original Message----- From: norman@frenchblat.com [mg-tabc] mg-tabc-noreply@yahoogroups.com> To: mg-tabc mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Wed, Jun 1, 2016 11:55 am Subject: [mg-tabc] Handbrake #ygrps-yiv-1712550377 #ygrps-yiv-1712550377AOLMsgPart_2_beeb0cac-2b5d-4bde-8487-7ecba8921d9e td{color:black;}#ygrps-yiv-1712550377 .ygrps-yiv-1712550377aolReplacedBody .ygrps-yiv-1712550377ygrp-photo-title{clear:both;font-size:smaller;height:15px;overflow:hidden;text-align:center;width:75px;}#ygrps-yiv-1712550377 .ygrps-yiv-1712550377aolReplacedBody div.ygrps-yiv-1712550377ygrp-photo{background-position:center;background-repeat:no-repeat;background-color:white;border:1px solid black;height:62px;width:62px;}#ygrps-yiv-1712550377 .ygrps-yiv-1712550377aolReplacedBody div.ygrps-yiv-1712550377photo-title a, #ygrps-yiv-1712550377 .ygrps-yiv-1712550377aolReplacedBody div.ygrps-yiv-1712550377photo-title a:active, #ygrps-yiv-1712550377 .ygrps-yiv-1712550377aolReplacedBody div.ygrps-yiv-1712550377photo-title a:hover, #ygrps-yiv-1712550377 .ygrps-yiv-1712550377aolReplacedBody div.ygrps-yiv-1712550377photo-title a:visited {text-decoration:none;}#ygrps-yiv-1712550377 .ygrps-yiv-1712550377aolReplacedBody div.ygrps-yiv-1712550377attach-table div.ygrps-yiv-1712550377attach-row {clear:both;}#ygrps-yiv-1712550377 .ygrps-yiv-1712550377aolReplacedBody div.ygrps-yiv-1712550377attach-table div.ygrps-yiv-1712550377attach-row div {float:left;}#ygrps-yiv-1712550377 .ygrps-yiv-1712550377aolReplacedBody p {clear:both;padding:15px 0 3px 0;overflow:hidden;}#ygrps-yiv-1712550377 .ygrps-yiv-1712550377aolReplacedBody div.ygrps-yiv-1712550377ygrp-file {width:30px;}#ygrps-yiv-1712550377 .ygrps-yiv-1712550377aolReplacedBody div.ygrps-yiv-1712550377attach-table div.ygrps-yiv-1712550377attach-row div div a {text-decoration:none;}#ygrps-yiv-1712550377 .ygrps-yiv-1712550377aolReplacedBody div.ygrps-yiv-1712550377attach-table div.ygrps-yiv-1712550377attach-row div div span {font-weight:normal;}#ygrps-yiv-1712550377 .ygrps-yiv-1712550377aolReplacedBody div.ygrps-yiv-1712550377ygrp-file-title {font-weight:bold;}#ygrps-yiv-1712550377 #ygrps-yiv-1712550377AOLMsgPart_2_beeb0cac-2b5d-4bde-8487-7ecba8921d9e td{color:black;}#ygrps-yiv-1712550377 .ygrps-yiv-1712550377aolReplacedBody #ygrps-yiv-1712550377ygrp-mkp {border:1px solid #d8d8d8;font-family:Arial;margin:10px 0;padding:0 10px;}#ygrps-yiv-1712550377 .ygrps-yiv-1712550377aolReplacedBody #ygrps-yiv-1712550377ygrp-mkp hr {border:1px solid #d8d8d8;}#ygrps-yiv-1712550377 .ygrps-yiv-1712550377aolReplacedBody #ygrps-yiv-1712550377ygrp-mkp #ygrps-yiv-1712550377hd {color:#628c2a;font-size:85%;font-weight:700;line-height:122%;margin:10px 0;}#ygrps-yiv-1712550377 .ygrps-yiv-1712550377aolReplacedBody #ygrps-yiv-1712550377ygrp-mkp #ygrps-yiv-1712550377ads {margin-bottom:10px;}#ygrps-yiv-1712550377 .ygrps-yiv-1712550377aolReplacedBody #ygrps-yiv-1712550377ygrp-mkp .ygrps-yiv-1712550377ad {padding:0 0;}#ygrps-yiv-1712550377 .ygrps-yiv-1712550377aolReplacedBody #ygrps-yiv-1712550377ygrp-mkp .ygrps-yiv-1712550377ad p {margin:0;}#ygrps-yiv-1712550377 .ygrps-yiv-1712550377aolReplacedBody #ygrps-yiv-1712550377ygrp-mkp .ygrps-yiv-1712550377ad a {color:#0000ff;text-decoration:none;} I'm having a nightmare with the handbrake. I don't mind nightmares with Sharon Stone, but handbrakes, no. When I rebuilt the brakes I couldn't get the handbrake nactuating arm to retrcat because the arm that fits on the cable would not retract past the guid bracket screwed to the top of the sho. In the end, after hours of trying to figure out what was wrong I just left it off. It would appear the the arm that goes across the top, just under the wheel cylinder is dropping because the guide isn't there. So, I've put the guide back on and I'm back to square one. I've got the drum on but it's locked solid. I've slackened the cable but the shoes are pressed hard against the drum because the arm won't retract. I'm suspicious of the new handbrake cable on this side and wondered if the ferrule that holds the cable to the chassis bracket by the front edge of the rear wheel could be in the wrong position thereby holding the cable out all the time. I'm just going to undo the two screws and see if that helps. But in the meantime if anyone has any ideas, please shout. A confused and tired Norman TC10178

Posted: **Wed Jun 01, 2016 1:21 pm**

Hello Norman, When I fitted new handbrake cables I found that the plastic outer coating was preventing the cable going fully into the hole in the chassis mounting, pulling the brakes on. By stripping back this coating, the cable dropped fully into the hole. There are some photos at http://tc4985.altervista.org/#handbrake. David JamesWest SussexTC4985

Posted: **Wed Jun 01, 2016 2:03 pm**

David,

I'm being a bit thick tonight. Do you mean the ferrule which is bolted to the chassis just after the adjusting nut or where it goes through the chassis further back and is held on with 2 x 3/16 BSF screws and nuts.

I seem to have solved the problem. I often ask Lynne to come and look at a problem and explain it. She will say something silly but it sparks the thoughts and problem solved. This time she pulled the handbrake on and off and after about 3 times I heard a click and the actuating arm went in behind the shoe. It may have been the cable pulling into the ferrule. I did think it may be something like that so removed the 2 screws to move the cable further back because it looked tighter than the original cable on the other side.

I hope that's OK now. Only the new cable to fit on the other side and the headlight bulbs and new lens. My daughters bringing them Saturday, so Sunday to get that done, the MOT on Monday and then engine out, leak fixed and back by the following Saturday. I'm going to work 0600 to 1000 Tuesday to Friday as I'll have to take daughter and son-in-law out all week.

[b]Norman Verona[/b]

[u]La Foie, 49520, Noellet, France[/u]

Tel: 0033 (0)2 41 92 73 44

Mob: 0033 (0)7 70 70 23 79

Web: www.frenchblat.com

MG Midget TC 10178

[b]From:[/b] mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com [mailto:mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com] [b]On Behalf Of [/b]David James dr.david.james@gmail.com [mg-tabc] [b]Sent:[/b] 01 June 2016 22:22 [b]To:[/b] mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com [b]Subject:[/b] [mg-tabc] Re: Handbrake

Hello Norman,

When I fitted new handbrake cables I found that the plastic outer coating was preventing the cable going fully into the hole in the chassis mounting, pulling the brakes on. By stripping back this coating, the cable dropped fully into the hole. There are some photos at http://tc4985.altervista.org/#handbrake.

David James

West Sussex

TC4985