Wilsons Sandbox

Posted: **Fri Feb 04, 2005 9:33 am**

Hello Group, Is anyone willing to share their experience or give advice about using one of the Moss radiators with a heavy duty core (#453-980) in a TC. I'm faced with deciding between a used radiator with original core (lowest cost highest risk), a Moss replacement (?), or a used radiator with a top quality new core (highest cost lowest risk). Greg Hoeft TC1415 "Venerable Vernette" _________________________________________________________________ Don t just search. Find. Check out the new MSN Search! http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/

Posted: **Fri Feb 04, 2005 10:21 am**

Dear Greg: It somewhat depends the area you live. Skip Burns has an excellent dissertation in our Tech section that might give you good guidance. Tally Ho! Thom Collins [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Posted: **Fri Feb 04, 2005 10:43 am**

Greg, No experience with the Moss radiator but I've had two recored with new, high efficiency 4 row cores. Cost was about $230 apiece a couple of years ago. It's not hard for a radiator shop to do (I used two different ones) so I don't quite understand the "highest cost, lowest risk" comment unless you've been quoted something outrageous. Find an old mom and pop shop and ask them what they'd charge. Gene Gillam Saucier, MS P.S. - I'm not really out in the sticks - Mississippi is starting to thrive.

Posted: **Fri Feb 04, 2005 11:42 am**

Greg I have fitted a Moss radiatror to a TC and it worked well, though we did have to spend time massaging the brackets to the radiator shell and the one we used did not have a drain cock . I would not waste my time using a used radiator as you are already replacing a used one. The new core would be fine if you had a crafstman type doing the job. Joe curto [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Posted: **Fri Feb 04, 2005 12:41 pm**

Greg, My TC radiator was in bad shape with the core bad and mounting brackets bent and broke. Here's what I did: Unsolder the steel bracket/frame/surround off of the radiator tanks (Top & Bottom.) Take the radiator, tanks and original core only, to radiator shop. They will measure exact core and order new to replace. In the mean time, take your steel surround and bead blast or clean as necessary and straighten. This is very basic metal work that even I can do. A couple of areas were cracked so I had new sheet metal cut and tack welded to replace it. Then primed and painted leaving those areas clean that need to be resoldered to the new core and tanks. Returned this to the radiator shop and they assembled the whole thing. Looked like a totally new radiator, and fit perfect. Total cost = $300. Doug Pelton Mesa, AZ -----Original Message----- From: joecurto@aol.com [mailto:joecurto@aol.com] Sent: Friday, February 04, 2005 12:41 PM To: greghoeft@hotmail.com; mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [mg-tabc] TC Radiator compatibility Greg I have fitted a Moss radiatror to a TC and it worked well, though we did have to spend time massaging the brackets to the radiator shell and the one we used did not have a drain cock . I would not waste my time using a used radiator as you are already replacing a used one. The new core would be fine if you had a crafstman type doing the job. Joe curto [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Yahoo! Groups Links

Posted: **Fri Feb 04, 2005 1:24 pm**

Greg, The TC cooling system is "atmospheric"...no pressure. If you have the core cleaned and pressure tested, and it does not leak, than it surly will not leak in service for a very long time. Perhaps you can have the cheaper original core tested before purchasing. I know nothing about the Moss core. But, if you have a new (modern) core placed in by a radiator shop, then I suggest the following from my experience and of people I know. 1) Bring the shell so they can see how to place the brackets. Everyone I know has has trouble in aligning the shell after core removal for cleaning or replacement. 2) On every new core job I have seen ( 4 or 5) the shop has cut the overflow pipe and replaced it with plastic hose. I have seen the pipe cut-off even on original cores removed for cleaning (rodding out). 3) Have the shop remove the "radiators branch" tag from the old core and place on the new one...so it looks original. A couple years ago I had my TC's core overhauled (original) and gave the shop permission to replace it if necessary. I stipulated the above instructions. They told me the original was in "pretty good condition" and ought to be serviceable for many more years. They also said "they don't make them as heavy as that anymore" meaning thickness of material. This same shop several years ago, repaired a Chevy Pick-up core for me. I drive the truck only as necessary, which is not often. They said to replace it now as it will not last 3 years max., it lasted two years. So, I trust their opinion. I hope you have an honest radiator shop near you. Good luck. Bill Traill TC5221

Posted: **Fri Feb 04, 2005 1:47 pm**

To all contemplating having their T-series, or other "atmospheric", or non-pressure radiators worked on by a current radiator shop. Make sure that they realize that this is a non-pressurized radiator when leak testing it. Otherwise, if they test it to modern standards / pressure of 13 to 15 psi, they will deform the tanks! Also make sure that they remove any brass nameplates before they dip it in acid for cleaning. Otherwise you will loose the brass nameplates as the acid will dissolve them. Better to remove them carefully before you take it to them, then re install at home with low temp solder. Also, when you get it back, make sure all openings are clear, including the overflow tube. Otherwise the temperature will pressurize the radiator once the car is running and lead to problems. Not to many shops are aware of the idiosyncrasies of the old non-pressurized cooling systems. Best to look for a shop that is familiar with old car overhaul / rebuild/ Ben Gilbert Miami, FL '38 SA Tickford, '49 TCexu, '52 TD

----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill Traill" bill@clovermachine.com> To: mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Friday, February 04, 2005 4:26 PM Subject: [mg-tabc] Re: TC Radiator compatibility > > Greg, > > The TC cooling system is "atmospheric"...no pressure. If you have the core > cleaned and pressure tested, and it does not leak, than it surly will not leak > in service for a very long time. Perhaps you can have the cheaper original > core tested before purchasing. > > I know nothing about the Moss core. But, if you have a new (modern) core > placed in by a radiator shop, then I suggest the following from my > experience and of people I know. 1) Bring the shell so they can see how to > place the brackets. Everyone I know has has trouble in aligning the shell > after core removal for cleaning or replacement. 2) On every new core job I > have seen ( 4 or 5) the shop has cut the overflow pipe and replaced it with > plastic hose. I have seen the pipe cut-off even on original cores removed for > cleaning (rodding out). 3) Have the shop remove the "radiators branch" tag > from the old core and place on the new one...so it looks original. > > A couple years ago I had my TC's core overhauled (original) and gave the > shop permission to replace it if necessary. I stipulated the above > instructions. They told me the original was in "pretty good condition" and > ought to be serviceable for many more years. They also said "they don't > make them as heavy as that anymore" meaning thickness of material. > > This same shop several years ago, repaired a Chevy Pick-up core for me. I > drive the truck only as necessary, which is not often. They said to replace it > now as it will not last 3 years max., it lasted two years. So, I trust their > opinion. I hope you have an honest radiator shop near you. > > Good luck. > > Bill Traill > TC5221 > > > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > > >

Posted: **Fri Feb 04, 2005 7:12 pm**

To All Thanks for the great response to my inquiry. The reason I listed three choices and ranked them as I did was because TC1415 is fitted with a honey comb pattern radiator from another model car. The water outlet is on the left side and there is enough plumbing running about to service a small home. All in all a poor setup. Greg Hoeft

>From: "Greg Hoeft" greghoeft@hotmail.com> >To: mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com >Subject: [mg-tabc] TC Radiator compatibility >Date: Fri, 04 Feb 2005 11:32:55 -0600 > > >Hello Group, > >Is anyone willing to share their experience or give advice about using one >of the Moss radiators with a heavy duty core (#453-980) in a TC. I'm faced >with deciding between a used radiator with original core (lowest cost >highest risk), a Moss replacement (?), or a used radiator with a top >quality >new core (highest cost lowest risk). > >Greg Hoeft >TC1415 "Venerable Vernette" > >_________________________________________________________________ >Don t just search. Find. Check out the new MSN Search! >http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/ > > > > >Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > >

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Posted: **Mon Feb 07, 2005 4:44 am**

>>>> Also make sure that they remove any brass nameplates before they dip it

in

> acid for cleaning. Otherwise you will loose the brass nameplates as the

acid

> will dissolve them.

Never mind the name tags - the whole header tank is brass!

----- Original Message ----- From: "BenGilbert" bfgcinc@bellsouth.net> To: bill@clovermachine.com>; mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Friday, February 04, 2005 9:46 PM Subject: Re: [mg-tabc] Re: TC Radiator compatibility > > To all contemplating having their T-series, or other "atmospheric", or > non-pressure radiators worked on by a current radiator shop. > > Make sure that they realize that this is a non-pressurized radiator when > leak testing it. Otherwise, if they test it to modern standards / pressure > of 13 to 15 psi, they will deform the tanks!.................... >

Posted: **Mon Feb 07, 2005 5:58 am**

On Mon, 7 Feb 2005 12:43 -0000, Clive Sherriff wrote:

>>>>> Also make sure that they remove any brass nameplates before they dip it >> in acid for cleaning. Otherwise you will loose the brass nameplates as >> the acid will dissolve them. > Never mind the name tags - the whole header tank is brass!

So is the bottom tank. So is the core. -- Chip Old 1948 M.G. TC TC6710 XPAG7430 NEMGTR #2271 Cub Hill, Maryland fold@bcpl.net