Re: SPAM-MED: Re: [mg-tabc] Pinned Ammeter

[James Btass]

Attachments :Hi Duncan

 

I have recently fitted a DVR3 to my TA which has the original 3-brush dynamo and cut-out. This very simple system has some interesting failure modes when wires break or the battery fails!

I chose the DVR3 since it is very well packaged (fully encapsulated), the wiring is simple and can be fitted easily behind the CJR3 cut out so nothing shows. I doubt there is much difference in the electric performance of the units you mention but the DVR3 was well made and fitted perfectly.

I have just written up a short description of how I tackled this (attached). I will submit this to the Octagon Car Club and would welcome any comments prior to doing this.

 

Best Regards

 

James Thomas

 

 

[b]From:[/b] mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com [mailto:mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com] [b]On Behalf Of [/b]Duncan morelists@yahoo.com [mg-tabc] [b]Sent:[/b] 08 November 2017 04:36 [b]To:[/b] mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com; mail@mgnuts.com [b]Subject:[/b] SPAM-MED: Re: [mg-tabc] Pinned Ammeter

 

 

Many TC's are running with TD type dynamo's that are inexpensive to replace. Some original model TC dynamo's are still in use, and I suspect Doug Peltons recommendation for electronic regulators is directed at them, as those dynamo's are quite costly to repair/replace. Theory is that an electronic regulator can prolong the life of your dynamo, while the mechanical regulator can shorten its life, and that mechanical points waste a fair amount of current. Real question being unanswered for those running original TC dynamos is who makes the best electronic regulator conversion? Clover Systems (DRM unit) or Dynamo Regulators Ltd (DVR3 unit) or Vintage Mecha-Tronics? Duncan- TC9866 --------------------------------------------

On Mon, 11/6/17, Steve S mail@mgnuts.com [mg-tabc] mg-tabc-noreply@yahoogroups.com> wrote: Subject: Re: [mg-tabc] Pinned Ammeter To: Cc: "mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com" mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com> Date: Monday, November 6, 2017, 11:39 AM   I'm in the same camp... I tend to avoid electronics in my old cars.  The electric / mechanical parts give lots of warning if something is amiss, whereas electronic parts typically fail very suddenly and without warning.  Maybe I'm in the minority, but my original Lucas regulator has been going for 30,000 miles so far with no sign of impending issues.  I've had one go out of spec on my MGA, but a very simple adjustment and cleaning put it back in order.  And in my daily driver MGB I had one start to act up after about 70,000 miles, and was rebuilt locally and now back in the car. I don't have a problem with anyone using electronics, but personally I prefer the old tech predictability more than modern stuff.  At my job I deal with advanced electronics on a daily basis, so it's really nice to have my M.G.s to help me escape that! - Steve Simmons, TC8975 On 11/6/2017 11:01 AM, Andrea VILLA searunner99@yahoo.com [mg-tabc] wrote:   Someone successfully transferred the electromechanical components from a RB106 to the RF91 without problems   they are approx the same and have the same working principle and  NO problems of Positive or Negative   ground  Diode and Electronics was at the advent I don't know the J2 electromechanical Volt Regulator BUT probably the same  change  is possible RB106 is already available at good price in UK (probably made in INDIA) GBP27+VAT* shipment also RF95 are already sell  https://www.holden.co.uk/displayproducts.asp?sg=1&pgCode=084&sgName=Electrical&pgName=Control+Boxes&agCode=0450&agName=Control+Boxes%2FRegulators I haven't any agreement with Holden Co Ltd The advantage is a better epoca compliance and a strong old machinery working Electronic on our olds cars- also that well hidden,- can have some problems and must be well protected from the troubles coming from the  oldest Dynamo This oldest LUCAS manual can helps someone http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/books/lts_otcc/Session5_GeneratorControl.pdf