Wilsons Sandbox

Sure, if you know loads it is exposed to, pick the right alloy material to make it out of, have a lathe to make it on, & know how to heat treat it to achieve proper toughness.

 

Bill

TC 4926

Odessa, Fl

 

[b]From:[/b] mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com [mailto:mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com] [b]On Behalf Of [/b]Graham Knight graham.knight5@gmail.com [mg-tabc] [b]Sent:[/b] Wednesday, October 04, 2017 1:55 PM [b]To:[/b] mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com [b]Subject:[/b] [mg-tabc] Track rod

 

 

Dear All, It it feasible to make a track rod? Graham

Make that a lathe with a taper attachment.

 

-Bill

 

[b]From:[/b] mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com [mailto:mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com] [b]On Behalf Of [/b]Graham Knight graham.knight5@gmail.com [mg-tabc] [b]Sent:[/b] Wednesday, October 04, 2017 1:55 PM [b]To:[/b] mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com [b]Subject:[/b] [mg-tabc] Track rod

 

 

Dear All, It it feasible to make a track rod? Graham

Hi Bill, I understand about the metallurgy but, assuming a suitable tube can be sourced wouldn't it just require LH and RH threads to be cut? Which bit would need to be tapered? Graham

On 04/10/17 22:31, Bill Hyatt wrote:

Make that a lathe with a taper attachment.

-Bill

[b]From:[/b] mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com [mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com] [b]On Behalf Of [/b]Graham Knight graham.knight5@gmail.com [mg-tabc] [b]Sent:[/b] Wednesday, October 04, 2017 1:55 PM [b]To:[/b] mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com [b]Subject:[/b] [mg-tabc] Track rod

Dear All, It it feasible to make a track rod? Graham

The actual 'rod' does not have to be tube.  If you can source a suitable piece of thick-wall tubing so much the better but it could be solid bar .... a bit heavy but it would work.  I hope I'm not trying to teach my Granny to suck eggs, so forgive me if you are a competent machinist.   The easiest and quickest way to produce a full thread is by using a suitable 'full form carbide insert' in a bespoke holder.  They are available for left hand forms, but for the number of times a left hand thread is called for it is not cost effective. However, you can cut a 'left hand external' thread, using an 'internal right hand' insert, mounted in a suitable boring bar and the machine running in reverse. The boring bar has to be set as it would for boring, and as far out of the tool post as the length of thread you want to cut as you will be producing the thread on the 'far' side of work. The direction of travel of the carriage has to be reversed to be able to start the thread in the normal way .. i.e. the carriage will move towards the chuck. It's much easier if your lathe has a reasonable brake and can be reversed with out disengaging the lead screw ... but you must remember to make note of where the cross-slide is on the dial before winding the tool clear of the work and sending the carriage back for another cut  .. that way you are guaranteed to have a 'one start' thread.   It sounds a bit of a faff but it does produce the goods.   Tweed.          From: "Graham Knight graham.knight5@gmail.com [mg-tabc]" mg-tabc-noreply@yahoogroups.com> [b]To:[/b] usaj24@earthlink.net; mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com [b]Sent:[/b] Thursday, 5 October 2017, 8:19 [b]Subject:[/b] Re: [mg-tabc] Track rod   Hi Bill, I understand about the metallurgy but, assuming a suitable tube can be sourced wouldn't it just require LH and RH threads to be cut? Which bit would need to be tapered? Graham

On 04/10/17 22:31, Bill Hyatt wrote:

Make that a lathe with a taper attachment.   -Bill   [b]From:[/b] mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com [mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com] [b]On Behalf Of [/b]Graham Knight graham.knight5@gmail.com [mg-tabc] [b]Sent:[/b] Wednesday, October 04, 2017 1:55 PM [b]To:[/b] mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com [b]Subject:[/b] [mg-tabc] Track rod     Dear All, It it feasible to make a track rod? Graham #ygrps-yiv-2064607909 #ygrps-yiv-2064607909yiv9828134488 #ygrps-yiv-2064607909yiv9828134488 -- #ygrps-yiv-2064607909yiv9828134488ygrp-mkp { border:1px solid #d8d8d8;font-family:Arial;margin:10px 0;padding:0 10px;} #ygrps-yiv-2064607909 #ygrps-yiv-2064607909yiv9828134488 #ygrps-yiv-2064607909yiv9828134488ygrp-mkp hr { border:1px solid #d8d8d8;} #ygrps-yiv-2064607909 #ygrps-yiv-2064607909yiv9828134488 #ygrps-yiv-2064607909yiv9828134488ygrp-mkp #ygrps-yiv-2064607909yiv9828134488hd { color:#628c2a;font-size:85%;font-weight:700;line-height:122%;margin:10px 0;} #ygrps-yiv-2064607909 #ygrps-yiv-2064607909yiv9828134488 #ygrps-yiv-2064607909yiv9828134488ygrp-mkp #ygrps-yiv-2064607909yiv9828134488ads { margin-bottom:10px;} #ygrps-yiv-2064607909 #ygrps-yiv-2064607909yiv9828134488 #ygrps-yiv-2064607909yiv9828134488ygrp-mkp .ygrps-yiv-2064607909yiv9828134488ad { padding:0 0;} #ygrps-yiv-2064607909 #ygrps-yiv-2064607909yiv9828134488 #ygrps-yiv-2064607909yiv9828134488ygrp-mkp 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Tweed, You are naughty, you've opened up a whole new debate for us by posing the question "Is a tube more rigid than a bar of the same diameter?" As a lad I clearly remember my old metalwork teacher telling me that the way to make a bar more rigid was to drill a hole down the middle of it and turn it into a tube. That was sixty years ago and I'm still pondering it! Regards Peter

On 5 October 2017 at 10:22, Tweed lizandtweed@yahoo.co.uk [mg-tabc] mg-tabc-noreply@yahoogroups.com> wrote: [u][/u] The actual 'rod' does not have to be tube. If you can source a suitable piece of thick-wall tubing so much the better but it could be solid bar .... a bit heavy but it would work. I hope I'm not trying to teach my Granny to suck eggs, so forgive me if you are a competent machinist. The easiest and quickest way to produce a full thread is by using a suitable 'full form carbide insert' in a bespoke holder. They are available for left hand forms, but for the number of times a left hand thread is called for it is not cost effective. However, you can cut a 'left hand external' thread, using an 'internal right hand' insert, mounted in a suitable boring bar and the machine running in reverse. The boring bar has to be set as it would for boring, and as far out of the tool post as the length of thread you want to cut as you will be producing the thread on the 'far' side of work. The direction of travel of the carriage has to be reversed to be able to start the thread in the normal way .. i.e. the carriage will move towards the chuck. It's much easier if your lathe has a reasonable brake and can be reversed with out disengaging the lead screw ... but you must remember to make note of where the cross-slide is on the dial before winding the tool clear of the work and sending the carriage back for another cut .. that way you are guaranteed to have a 'one start' thread. It sounds a bit of a faff but it does produce the goods. Tweed. From: "Graham Knight graham.knight5@gmail.com [mg-tabc]" mg-tabc-noreply@yahoogroups.com> [b]To:[/b] usaj24@earthlink.net; mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com [b]Sent:[/b] Thursday, 5 October 2017, 8:19 [b]Subject:[/b] Re: [mg-tabc] Track rod Hi Bill, I understand about the metallurgy but, assuming a suitable tube can be sourced wouldn't it just require LH and RH threads to be cut? Which bit would need to be tapered? Graham On 04/10/17 22:31, Bill Hyatt wrote: Make that a lathe with a taper attachment. -Bill [b]From:[/b] mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com [mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com] [b]On Behalf Of [/b]Graham Knight graham.knight5@gmail.com [mg-tabc] [b]Sent:[/b] Wednesday, October 04, 2017 1:55 PM [b]To:[/b] mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com [b]Subject:[/b] [mg-tabc] Track rod Dear All, It it feasible to make a track rod? Graham

Hello Peter,  ha, I remember that too  A tube will stand up better to bending stresses, but in this instance it is in tension/compression ... and I doubt it would ever be bothered by the forces on a T track rod ... but in my defence your honour I did say tube would be better.  I think it's something to do with the way it's manufactured and the grain structure. "Drilling a hole down the middle of it' I would have thought was more of your metalwork teacher's way of illustrating the point ... but there are far more knowledgeable souls out there with the necessary 'ology who will delight in enlightening us, and especially this lowly machinist!   Hope you are keeping well .. Tweed.  From: "Peter Cole pcoleuk@gmail.com [mg-tabc]" mg-tabc-noreply@yahoogroups.com> [b]To:[/b] Tweed lizandtweed@yahoo.co.uk> [b]Cc:[/b] Graham Knight graham.knight5@gmail.com>; "usaj24@earthlink.net" usaj24@earthlink.net>; "mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com" mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com> [b]Sent:[/b] Thursday, 5 October 2017, 11:10 [b]Subject:[/b] Re: [mg-tabc] Track rod   Tweed, You are naughty, you've opened up a whole new debate for us by posing the question "Is a tube more rigid than a bar of the same diameter?"  As a lad I clearly remember my old metalwork teacher telling me that the way to make a bar more rigid was to drill a hole down the middle of it and turn it into a tube.  That was sixty years ago and I'm still pondering it! Regards Peter On 5 October 2017 at 10:22, Tweed lizandtweed@yahoo.co.uk [mg-tabc] mg-tabc-noreply@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

[u][/u]   The actual 'rod' does not have to be tube.  If you can source a suitable piece of thick-wall tubing so much the better but it could be solid bar .... a bit heavy but it would work.  I hope I'm not trying to teach my Granny to suck eggs, so forgive me if you are a competent machinist.   The easiest and quickest way to produce a full thread is by using a suitable 'full form carbide insert' in a bespoke holder.  They are available for left hand forms, but for the number of times a left hand thread is called for it is not cost effective. However, you can cut a 'left hand external' thread, using an 'internal right hand' insert, mounted in a suitable boring bar and the machine running in reverse. The boring bar has to be set as it would for boring, and as far out of the tool post as the length of thread you want to cut as you will be producing the thread on the 'far' side of work. The direction of travel of the carriage has to be reversed to be able to start the thread in the normal way .. i.e. the carriage will move towards the chuck. It's much easier if your lathe has a reasonable brake and can be reversed with out disengaging the lead screw ... but you must remember to make note of where the cross-slide is on the dial before winding the tool clear of the work and sending the carriage back for another cut  .. that way you are guaranteed to have a 'one start' thread.   It sounds a bit of a faff but it does produce the goods.   Tweed.          From: "Graham Knight graham.knight5@gmail.com [mg-tabc]" mg-tabc-noreply@yahoogroups.com> [b]To:[/b] usaj24@earthlink.net; mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com [b]Sent:[/b] Thursday, 5 October 2017, 8:19 [b]Subject:[/b] Re: [mg-tabc] Track rod   Hi Bill, I understand about the metallurgy but, assuming a suitable tube can be sourced wouldn't it just require LH and RH threads to be cut? Which bit would need to be tapered? Graham On 04/10/17 22:31, Bill Hyatt wrote: Make that a lathe with a taper attachment.   -Bill   [b]From:[/b] mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com [mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com] [b]On Behalf Of [/b]Graham Knight graham.knight5@gmail.com [mg-tabc] [b]Sent:[/b] Wednesday, October 04, 2017 1:55 PM [b]To:[/b] mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com [b]Subject:[/b] [mg-tabc] Track rod     Dear All, It it feasible to make a track rod? Graham

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Yes, quite feasible Graham, but thick-walled tubing is expensive, plus the L & R hand thread dies. Andy King had a bunch of them at Beaulieu last year (he didn't come this year) so might have them, although he is a MMM specialist. cheers Roger

On Wed, Oct 4, 2017 at 6:55 PM, Graham Knight graham.knight5@gmail.com [mg-tabc] mg-tabc-noreply@yahoogroups.com> wrote: [u][/u] Dear All, It it feasible to make a track rod? Graham

Solid copper, like a round buss would work if you can find it in right diameter. Duncan- --------------------------------------------

On Wed, 10/4/17, Graham Knight graham.knight5@gmail.com [mg-tabc] mg-tabc-noreply@yahoogroups.com> wrote: Subject: [mg-tabc] Track rod To: "mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com" mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com> Date: Wednesday, October 4, 2017, 10:55 AM Dear All, It it feasible to make a track rod? 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