An often overlooked potential cause of OEM r. axle oil leaks is cogging of rear axle housing vent hole. The mol 2-3mm vent hole on top of housing allows bleeding off of built up air pressure in diff. Over pressurizing can cause diff oil to make its way past OEM HUB & into brakes.
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Forgot to mention, the TC spider differential cross has a hole in the center, so using a 3/8 ,approx 24 long, rod from the opposite side, and a light tap, should free the stuck shaft.Bob Bob Grunau150 Pinewood Trail,Mississauga, OntarioCanada, L5G-2L1905-274-4136 [b]From:[/b]
mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com [
mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com] [b]On Behalf Of [/b]'Bob Grunau'
grunau.garage@sympatico.ca [mg-tabc]
[b]Sent:[/b] Saturday, August 19, 2017 1:11 PM
[b]To:[/b]
joecurto@aol.com;
dr.david.james@gmail.com;
mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com
[b]Subject:[/b] RE: [mg-tabc] TC half-shafts Thanks Joe.David, Depending on where you are, left and near side can be confusing. However, the wheel hub should NOT separate from the axle shaft when removing the hub/axle assembly . There should be a 6000 to 12700 pound interference fit ( Service Info Sheet #15 ) . In other words, the hub/shaft assembly must operate as a single piece. Drop the inner end of the off side hub/axle onto a concrete floor, it should RING . Any shaft movement in the hub or a dull clonk means the hub is loose on the shaft and oil leaks will almost certainly occur. It is important that the wheel bearing outer race is clamped by the hub spigot, . 0.004 open between flanges will do this to give the required correct clamp . Shims and gaskets, if used , must be taken into consideration. Inner wheel bearing race must also be tight on the axle banjo. Using a 2 hex nut really helps get this connection tight as easy to use a 2 socket. The best fix is to taper bore your hubs and fit a new tapered outer end axle shaft and nut to lock the assembly together. But before you spend money on your hub, make sure the wheel splines are within spec, the outside diameter should be 2.450 NOS. Anything below 2.440 is suspect as the hub is worn. I can supply new tapered axles and hubs , as well as 2 hex seal nuts for the wheel bearings to keep oil off the brakes. Email me for more details if interested. The stuck shaft, I try a large pipe wrench on the shaft and pull the wrench sideways to try to move the shaft. Possibly your inner splines are a bit distorted and this is stopping the shaft from coming free? Call me if you want to discuss. Where are you??. Best regards and good luck,. Bob Bob Grunau150 Pinewood Trail,Mississauga, OntarioCanada, L5G-2L1905-274-4136
I am sure there are those more familiar with removing stuck axles but I can say I would check out Bob G axle & hub assemblies as the hub should not slide off the axle , and the oil seal nuts work well on his axle as the seal area is smooth , where I do not think the factory axle has a good enough surface fro sealJoe Curto718-762-7878
www.joecurto.com Knowing about the design flaw on the TC which allows oil to escape the rear axle and enter the brake drums, I have been regularly checking the drums for the past two years. Until last week they were dry. Following a 78 mile run, mainly in the wet, I put the car on axle stands and as part of my cleaning/checking I removed the rear drums. The off-side had a little oil on the outer edge of the shoes, but the near-side was full of oil. On that near-side, separating the flanges of the hub and bearing housing was difficult and I found that the bearing housing retaining nut was loose and the inside tab on the washer had been torn off. There was no sign of any shims between the hub and the bearing, so I suspect that it had not been assembled correctly. I will probably replace the nut with the hexagonal version with in-built lip seals. When I removed the off-side hub it came out with the half-shaft attached, as expected. However, the near-side hub easily slid off the splines of the half-shaft. That half-shaft could then be pulled out a few inches, but then got stuck; at which point it is not possible to rotate it. There is clearance between it and the oil return bushes (about 15 thou all round on the near-side and 11 thou on the off-side), even when the half-shaft is in its stuck position. Can anyone suggest what might be happening and how I can remove the half-shaft?