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Rough Running When Warm
Posted: Mon Apr 15, 2002 8:07 pm
by Mark Stolzenburg
Maybe someone in the group has run into this problem. Ever since I put the TC on the road in September 2001 it seems to start running rough as it gets warmer. It seems to be getting worse. The week after Easter I reset the carbs, re-synced, centered the jets etc. The car ran great with a smooth idle around 850 rpms. It was relatively cool here in St. Louis, around 45 degrees F that week. I took it for a short road test and it seemed to run fine.
Tonight I put the top down and took it for a spin. It was about 80 degrees F outside. The car ran perfect for 10 miles. I stopped by a building to aim the headlights and while it seemed to be starting to run rough, it wasn't until I turned on the headlights that it really started running rough. I barely got home. It acts as though it is running on two cylinders. It seems when I turn on the headlights it affects the running of the car. When cold the car starts within one crank. Tonight the car barely started when warm.Things I have checked:
1. Disconnected fuel line between fuel pump and carbs -turned on ignition and pump immediately filled up jar with gas.
2. Tickler pins in float bowls indicate bowls are full of gas.
3. Replaced ignition coil with new coil.
4. Replaced condenser in distributor with new condenser.
5. Checked wiring to ignition switch, ammeter etc, everything seems to be tight.
It seems to be electrical, as if something is breaking down when it gets hot.
Any suggestions?
Mark Stolzenburg
TC 7812.
St. Louis
Re: Rough Running When Warm
Posted: Tue Apr 16, 2002 12:26 am
by Dave & Diana Dwyer
Mark
How old/how good are your battery and dynamo?
It should read 12-12.5V with the engine off and not recently run, and nothing turned on. With headlights on it should maintain that voltage for a while. If it drops rapidly, or isn't 12V+ to start with, that could be a reason why the car sounds sick with electrical load on. The ignition system likes at least 12V to generate good sparks.
I think the charging system can only just keep up with the night-time load when everything is turned on, so it needs support from the battery.
I've been in the situation many years ago when the dynamo had failed and we needed to periodically swap batteries with our friends' car. As the battery got weaker and weaker the TC could barely drag itself up the hills.
Regards
Dave Dwyer
J2, TA, TC
Re: Rough Running When Warm
Posted: Tue Apr 16, 2002 7:31 am
by Dean Jensen
Mark What I would try, is when the car is running, and it is running rough, push down on the front carb float bowl tickler pin, and see if you have a good flow of gas out of the copper tube. Car must be running, and hot. Did you put a fuel filter in the gas line? Let me know what the results are. Dean -----Original Message-----
[b]From:[/b] Mark Stolzenburg [mailto:
stolzy40@peoplepc.com]
[b]Sent:[/b] Monday, April 15, 2002 8:07 PM
[b]To:[/b] mg-tabc List
[b]Subject:[/b] [mg-tabc] Rough Running When Warm Maybe someone in the group has run into this problem. Ever since I put the TC on the road in September 2001 it seems to start running rough as it gets warmer. It seems to be getting worse. The week after Easter I reset the carbs, re-synced, centered the jets etc. The car ran great with a smooth idle around 850 rpms. It was relatively cool here in St. Louis, around 45 degrees F that week. I took it for a short road test and it seemed to run fine. Tonight I put the top down and took it for a spin. It was about 80 degrees F outside. The car ran perfect for 10 miles. I stopped by a building to aim the headlights and while it seemed to be starting to run rough, it wasn't until I turned on the headlights that it really started running rough. I barely got home. It acts as though it is running on two cylinders. It seems when I turn on the headlights it affects the running of the car. When cold the car starts within one crank. Tonight the car barely started when warm.Things I have checked: 1. Disconnected fuel line between fuel pump and carbs -turned on ignition and pump immediately filled up jar with gas. 2. Tickler pins in float bowls indicate bowls are full of gas. 3. Replaced ignition coil with new coil. 4. Replaced condenser in distributor with new condenser. 5. Checked wiring to ignition switch, ammeter etc, everything seems to be tight. It seems to be electrical, as if something is breaking down when it gets hot. Any suggestions? Mark Stolzenburg TC 7812. St. Louis
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Re: Rough Running When Warm
Posted: Tue Apr 16, 2002 8:03 am
by Graham Knight
Mark,
When I had this problem the root cause turned out to be a dodgy control
box. The terminals in my box (God knows whether this is standard - precious
little is on my car) were riveted to various brass strips. Basically
corrosion had set in which resulted in bad contacts which were exacerbated
by high under-bonnet temperatures. Cleaning and applying solder fixed the
problem. All this was visible on removing the box and examining the rear.
Graham
Re: Rough Running When Warm
Posted: Tue Apr 16, 2002 1:27 pm
by Bullwinkle
Graham:
<<>>
Basically corrosion had set in which resulted in bad contacts which were
exacerbated
by high under-bonnet temperatures. Cleaning and applying solder fixed
the problem.
<<>>
BTDT. I have also "reset" the rivets using a large pin punch clamped in
the vice as a backig tool and another against the rivet. Sometimes you
can't get a soldering gun tip into a space or you're afraid you'll melt
something.
I've had to try all of these methods while fixing switches, fuse
holders, and relays at one time or another.
Blake