Wilsons Sandbox

Tom,

See notes in your text.

Noticing some 12:00/6:00 wobble in my front wheels, and having read the postings with regard to the above some months ago, I finally got around to pulling my front wheel hubs off last night. The stubs appear good, no cracks or groves. The wheel bearings appear good as do the spacers. The castle nuts holding the wheels on were not very tight, I'd say 36 ft lbs.

I doubt you can tell if the stub axles are cracked or not without magnafluxing.

If someone could repost the comments re: fitting the front hubs and bearings I would appreciate. I seem to recall that it was suggested that the castleated nuts should be very tight, say 124 ft/lbs.

This figure is ONLY for new stub axle inserts which have a higher strength than original stub axles and use a 3 / 4 National Fine thread nut.. Do NOT use this torque for standard 5/8 BSF original stub axles.

When grasping the stub axles and wiggling about and 1/8 of an inch of up and down play was noted at the king pins.

You need to replace the thrust washer and possibly shim above the axle to get about 0.004 veretical clearance.

I intend to fit new thrust washers to the king pins. I will fit new king pins with their associated bushings and felt washers as needed.

OK, these need to be a snug fit to the king pin and reamed to size using a pilot reamer to get the two bushings in line.

Someone was making front stub axles suitable for fitting tapered roller bearings on without the necessity of careful fitting of spacers. I would be very interest in contacting this person. I would also appreciated any comments from any person who has tried these aftermarket stub axles.

I supply these stub axle inserts. They were NEVER intended to be used with no spacers between bearings. ALWAYS use the spacers. You can use tapered roller bearings or standard ball bearings, but either way, use the spacer and torque the stub axle nut tight as appropriate for the stub axle. I don t know how many more times we have to repeat the requirement to use the bearing spacers and a tight stub axle nut. Please, use the spacers and shim as required. The spacers and a tight nut make a much stronger assembly due to increased effective diameter of the assembly.

Bob Grunau

My chart from the Home country says 124 ft-lbs for 5/8-18 mild steel bolts BOB Robert Grunau wrote:

Tom, See notes in your text. Noticing some 12:00/6:00 wobble in my front wheels, and having read the postings with regard to the above some months ago, I finally got around to pulling my front wheel hubs off last night.

The stubs appear good, no cracks or groves. The wheel bearings appear good as do the spacers. The castle nuts holding the wheels on were not very tight, I'd say 36 ft lbs. I doubt you can tell if the stub axles are cracked or not without magnafluxing. If someone could repost the comments re: fitting the front hubs and bearings I would appreciate. I seem to recall that it was suggested that the castleated nuts should be very tight, say 124 ft/lbs. This figure is ONLY for new stub axle inserts which have a higher strength than original stub axles and use a 3 / 4 National Fine thread nut.. Do NOT use this torque for standard 5/8 BSF original stub axles. When grasping the stub axles and wiggling about and 1/8 of an inch of up and down play was noted at the king pins. You need to replace the thrust washer and possibly shim above the axle to get about 0.004 veretical clearance. I intend to fit new thrust washers to the king pins. I will fit new king pins with their associated bushings and felt washers as needed. OK, these need to be a snug fit to the king pin and reamed to size using a pilot reamer to get the two bushings in line. Someone was making front stub axles suitable for fitting tapered roller bearings on without the necessity of careful fitting of spacers. I would be very interest in contacting this person. I would also appreciated any comments from any person who has tried these aftermarket stub axles. I supply these stub axle inserts. They were NEVER intended to be used with no spacers between bearings. ALWAYS use the spacers. You can use tapered roller bearings or standard ball bearings, but either way, use the spacer and torque the stub axle nut tight as appropriate for the stub axle. I don t know how many more times we have to repeat the requirement to use the bearing spacers and a tight stub axle nut. Please, use the spacers and shim as required. The spacers and a tight nut make a much stronger assembly due to increased effective diameter of the assembly. Bob Grunau Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.