files........

[murray arundell]

Hey team, can we hold off on the sending of files? We go through this every so often, isn't the protocol that we post photos to the website........... Just a friendly reminder.......... Murray Arundell - Aus

----- Original Message ----- [b]From:[/b] bill@rangelinemews.com [b]To:[/b] mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com [b]Sent:[/b] Tuesday, April 02, 2002 10:57 AM [b]Subject:[/b] [mg-tabc] FW: Hooters! ! [color=#000000]To: Dean Jensen, et. al.[/color] [color=#000000]Dean-you had some questions about Altette and Hooter horns a bit ago. I wrote to L. Issac who had done that piece in the OCC Bulletin, March '92 and the TSO, April '96 about remaking a Hooter into a Altette and received the following response, that I thought may be of intrest The bloke knows what he is doing and may be able to help. I did open the attachment with no problem.[/color] [color=#000000][/color] [color=#000000]Cheers, see you in July![/color] [color=#000000]Bill [/color] -----Original Message----- [b]From:[/b] lynn isaac [mailto:lynn.isaac@tinyworld.co.uk] [b]Sent:[/b] Tuesday, January 08, 2002 3:57 AM [b]To:[/b] bill@rangelinemews.com [b]Subject:[/b] Hooters! Dear Mr Hentzen, Reason for making the "how to identify" LUCAS ALTETTES has given a little info to the lads.

[*]It has however remained before then & after a mystery to many re how when & what to do with those darned varieties. I saw some genius deciding to sell "fluted dome nuts' to well meaning restorers who use both cast iron bodied Lucas Altettes plus the very very similar Clearhooters 180A types. Easy for me since all I deal with is hooters & there are always 7000 here from 1900 plus the largest database on such. That means selling little wrong bits for a few dollars more does not appeal to me and I for the last 18 years have had never less than 3 months waiting list for restorations to horns. I take in all sorts broken incomplete duds etc so I can fit or convert at no extra cost & everyone always gets the dead right thing returned for their machines. I have not even pursued the 4 wheeled market since I have enough to do for motorcycles, & all elect & restoration specialist send them here anyway. I am either too cheap or tooo slow!. Now then, when you have a pressed steel body you will need a pin, a washer and a nut. In those using fluted nuts the pin cames from the rear, the flute nut is held in place by the proper tool & all is torqued down by screw tightening from the rear. There is a heckuva lot more to do re points setting & positioning plus getting the diaphragm centre pulled magnetically to the exact centre of the flux field along with setting the number & thicknesses of the wax paper shims (which look like gaskets) to provide exact distance of travel for rebound. (They must be waxed not dry gasket or they absorb the water and rust starts and spreads to the inside) This all alters re torquing, resistance at all connections plus the voltage applied. Remember you are still on the pre WW2 pressed steel body. WHEN YOU TRY TO KEEP THE GENIUS THAT MAKES DOME NUTS HAPPY by putting fluted domes on Clearhooters 180A they are useless since they are cast iron and you have to put them onto 2BA studs or screw ins from the rear (they are not holding the bezel or diaphragm on are they/ they would be relying on tightening down of the 2BA fluted dome nut! (Be surprised if you have not taken the chrome off tightening or marking the bezel en route) You can of course drill out the body threads and use pins!. Surprise again the cast iron body is not quite strong enough to last like this. The Lucas and Clearhooters horns do not accept each others brachets since the pins difference between 2BA & 1/4" BSF pins clearance is a lot & insufficient meat remains along with there being a different outside profile PLUS AN INSIDE contour which differs using a parallel each side of the CL bodied ones. SO If you try to get fluted domes onto a LUCAS POST WW2 Cast Iron body you would need to try to screw down the fluted nuts now made with 4 of them having 1BA threads & 2 actually having the proper 1/4"BSF thread. However, no screw washer?, you risk front bezel & diaphragm coming loose. When a reassembly or fitting all pins is conducted the adjuster's curved hollow into the insulation on the points tongue ttouches at a point off centre & alters the adjustment & tones. I would appreciate if you could save the above & onpass it to the MG owners Club, it could help GETTING THE PROPER ONE & not butchering a proper one? who knows?. Yes I have proper ones and restore or you could trade in the wrong one and get a right one, no extra charge as long as you wait, ( the motorcycle lads have my work cornered for quite a few year now. One more thing! some other Genius made repro bezels which look quite good, however when tightened down for the last few turns they crimp the bezel and burn out usually points or coil & ruin a by then crimped edge diaphragm. This is since a metal spun radius cannot be made as sharp a turn as the original stamped one. the price of genius? I am too thick to be one. shall send a Lucas Altette of 55 on plus a 1930s type correct one and a Clearhooters one with brackets shown on an attachment. Lucas goes with Lucas, Clearhooters with Miller systems I do not normally send such a long explanation, however I feel if you can onpass it it will save a lot of expensive mangling! & If you need yours done I can put in line here & you would get the correct one back. Istopped supplying the ANGLO guy in Belgium after I found he was selling any type of year Altette for the money not correctness. or originality. With compliments. If you send by mail never put the value of horn or contents at more than 10$ (ten bucks) or IR/customs need a fee out , a fee in, a fee out back & a fee on arrival back!!!! jeez just put 10 bucks as value if you ever send across.

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