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"Frozen" Brake Drums
Posted: Sat Jan 12, 2002 12:23 am
by Davidtasa@aol.com
Dick,
Usually a couple heathly blows to the drum with a heavy hammer will free the shoes from the drums.
David TC 3896
have a friend who - after parking his MG TDs (2) for over 10 years, now
wants to get them out of the moth balls, and start driving them.
Unfortunately, he left them parked with the emergency brake on, and now when
the emergency brake is released, he cannot turn the wheels - the brakes have
probably rusted tot he brake drums (of course, he lives in soggy, wet, old
Seattle where rust, moss and slugs thrive and grow.
Does anyone have any suggestions on how to break the brakes free so the
wheels can turn? We have tried to turn the brake drums, and have even tried
placing a 2x4 between the lug studs and pushing on the 2x4 in the direction
of the wheels turning, and that hasn't worked. Next step is to unscrew the
main wheel nut, unscrew the brakes from the back side of the plate, and pull
the brake and brake shoes off the hub....
Any ideas what might work?
Dick Lange
Boeing Commercial Airplane Group
DCAC-MRM PROJECT SUPPORT, BUILD TEAM
7-206 3D1-2.1, M/S 6M-HR, Fax (425) 965-6655
Phone : (425 ) 965-6789 Pager: (206) 416-3663
Cell Phone (425)941-0385 Home Phone (425)481-3063
"Frozen" Brake Drums
Posted: Sat Jan 12, 2002 2:33 am
by C Sherriff
OK so hitting it wont work!!!---
Try a tow pull - if that doesnt work-----
One good solution then needs the engine working
Jack car up at the back on one side, Firmly set it on blocks, remove
wheel - Start Engine - Select Top gear (for preference) - Rev up a bit -
Drop Clutch This usually will break what is usually a quite tenuous
adhesion. Heating of the drum before this can hepl too, but dont blow up
the fuel tank!
When Free, replace wheel, put back on ground and repeat for other side.
Its an unnerving process first time but with practice!
Once had to extract a Jag XK140 Coupewhich had same problem - but
it had been steered into a space so small that you could not open the
doors to get in. Owners Daughter aged 7 had done this and craweled
out of a minute sunroof in the car which noone could get in! An
interesting day!
Clive
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Message text written by INTERNET:
Davidtasa@aol.com
> have a friend who - after parking his MG TDs (2) for over 10 years, now
wants to get them out of the moth balls, and start driving them.
Unfortunately, he left them parked with the emergency brake on, and now
when
the emergency brake is released, he cannot turn the wheels - the brakes
have
probably rusted tot he brake drums (of course, he lives in soggy, wet, old
Seattle where rust, moss and slugs thrive and grow.
Does anyone have any suggestions on how to break the brakes free so the
wheels can turn? We have tried to turn the brake drums, and have even
tried
placing a 2x4 between the lug studs and pushing on the 2x4 in the direction
of the wheels turning, and that hasn't worked. Next step is to unscrew the
main wheel nut, unscrew the brakes from the back side of the plate, and
pull
the brake and brake shoes off the hub....
Any ideas what might work?
Re: "Frozen" Brake Drums
Posted: Sat Jan 12, 2002 7:10 am
by joecurto@aol.com
Dick the brake cylinders on a TD, TF, MGA etc. slide up and down I would remove the wheel and beat the cylinder portion that is protruding from the backing plate down this will hopefully collapse the outer piston into the cylinder proper. if you can get the wheel to move at all get it into position to release the brake adjuster I would also remove the line fittings and be prepared to Kiss the cylinders good by.
Joe Curto
"Frozen" brake drums
Posted: Sat Jan 12, 2002 9:57 am
by Jennifer and Hugh Pite
This "freezing" of the brake drums to the linings is a very common problem
with the TD/F. What has happened is that the emergency brake being on has
pushed the rear piston up in the cylinder and then the Seattle air has
corroded it in place. This corrosion is caused by dis-similiar metals, the
piston is steel and the cylinder is aluminum. Also the linings are probably
rusted onto the drums. In very stubborn cases the application of heat,
trying to turn the drum and banging on the drum will not be successful. I
would remove the two nuts holding the abutment, remove the axle nut and then
get a big puller for the brake drum. You should then be able to haul the
linings out with the drum, possibly doing some damage to the shoes and the
cylinder in the process.
On the other hand, if you are lucky enough to be able to get at the
adjustment screw then your problems are over for that side.
Hugh Pite