"Frozen" Brake Drums

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Davidtasa@aol.com
Posts: 27
Joined: Wed Jun 13, 2001 4:41 am

"Frozen" Brake Drums

Post by Davidtasa@aol.com » Sat Jan 12, 2002 12:23 am

Dick, Usually a couple heathly blows to the drum with a heavy hammer will free the shoes from the drums. David TC 3896 have a friend who - after parking his MG TDs (2) for over 10 years, now wants to get them out of the moth balls, and start driving them. Unfortunately, he left them parked with the emergency brake on, and now when the emergency brake is released, he cannot turn the wheels - the brakes have probably rusted tot he brake drums (of course, he lives in soggy, wet, old Seattle where rust, moss and slugs thrive and grow. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to break the brakes free so the wheels can turn? We have tried to turn the brake drums, and have even tried placing a 2x4 between the lug studs and pushing on the 2x4 in the direction of the wheels turning, and that hasn't worked. Next step is to unscrew the main wheel nut, unscrew the brakes from the back side of the plate, and pull the brake and brake shoes off the hub.... Any ideas what might work? Dick Lange Boeing Commercial Airplane Group DCAC-MRM PROJECT SUPPORT, BUILD TEAM 7-206 3D1-2.1, M/S 6M-HR, Fax (425) 965-6655 Phone : (425 ) 965-6789 Pager: (206) 416-3663 Cell Phone (425)941-0385 Home Phone (425)481-3063

C Sherriff
Posts: 147
Joined: Tue Mar 20, 2001 12:35 am

"Frozen" Brake Drums

Post by C Sherriff » Sat Jan 12, 2002 2:33 am

OK so hitting it wont work!!!--- Try a tow pull - if that doesnt work----- One good solution then needs the engine working Jack car up at the back on one side, Firmly set it on blocks, remove wheel - Start Engine - Select Top gear (for preference) - Rev up a bit - Drop Clutch This usually will break what is usually a quite tenuous adhesion. Heating of the drum before this can hepl too, but dont blow up the fuel tank! When Free, replace wheel, put back on ground and repeat for other side. Its an unnerving process first time but with practice! Once had to extract a Jag XK140 Coupewhich had same problem - but it had been steered into a space so small that you could not open the doors to get in. Owners Daughter aged 7 had done this and craweled out of a minute sunroof in the car which noone could get in! An interesting day! Clive ================================================== Message text written by INTERNET:Davidtasa@aol.com
> have a friend who - after parking his MG TDs (2) for over 10 years, now
wants to get them out of the moth balls, and start driving them. Unfortunately, he left them parked with the emergency brake on, and now when the emergency brake is released, he cannot turn the wheels - the brakes have probably rusted tot he brake drums (of course, he lives in soggy, wet, old Seattle where rust, moss and slugs thrive and grow. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to break the brakes free so the wheels can turn? We have tried to turn the brake drums, and have even tried placing a 2x4 between the lug studs and pushing on the 2x4 in the direction of the wheels turning, and that hasn't worked. Next step is to unscrew the main wheel nut, unscrew the brakes from the back side of the plate, and pull the brake and brake shoes off the hub.... Any ideas what might work?

joecurto@aol.com
Posts: 313
Joined: Wed Jul 19, 2000 3:42 am

Re: "Frozen" Brake Drums

Post by joecurto@aol.com » Sat Jan 12, 2002 7:10 am

Dick the brake cylinders on a TD, TF, MGA etc. slide up and down I would remove the wheel and beat the cylinder portion that is protruding from the backing plate down this will hopefully collapse the outer piston into the cylinder proper. if you can get the wheel to move at all get it into position to release the brake adjuster I would also remove the line fittings and be prepared to Kiss the cylinders good by. Joe Curto

Jennifer and Hugh Pite
Posts: 53
Joined: Mon Jan 03, 2000 11:11 am

"Frozen" brake drums

Post by Jennifer and Hugh Pite » Sat Jan 12, 2002 9:57 am

This "freezing" of the brake drums to the linings is a very common problem with the TD/F. What has happened is that the emergency brake being on has pushed the rear piston up in the cylinder and then the Seattle air has corroded it in place. This corrosion is caused by dis-similiar metals, the piston is steel and the cylinder is aluminum. Also the linings are probably rusted onto the drums. In very stubborn cases the application of heat, trying to turn the drum and banging on the drum will not be successful. I would remove the two nuts holding the abutment, remove the axle nut and then get a big puller for the brake drum. You should then be able to haul the linings out with the drum, possibly doing some damage to the shoes and the cylinder in the process. On the other hand, if you are lucky enough to be able to get at the adjustment screw then your problems are over for that side. Hugh Pite

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