Wilsons Sandbox

In a message dated 12/19/01 21:34:04 Pacific Standard Time, nwnel@mediaone.net writes: > Brake drums don't enter into the roller bearing conversion at all.......Please, please don't leave out the spacer........thats why I said that this conversion is not a good idea for the uninitiated. Leaving out the spacer will lead to a broken stub axle.......not a happy happening! The original ball bearing design works just fine.......some things we should improve, some things we shouldn't. Terry

>I have received the reprint of the roller bearing conversion that was >printed in the T Type Restoration Handbook from Ben (Thank you Ben) and have >a question. The article says you should not install the spacer tube when >you make the conversion but I have read on this forum that you should do so. >The question is....... Who is right?

Neil, Put the spacer in. I am not familiar with the article but would guess it to be from quite a while back. When the conversion to taper roller bearings first started, the thought was to remove the spacer and adjust the bearings like other modern non-driven front axled vehicles. It was later revealed that the TABC axles relied on the assembly with the spacer for strength. Adjust the bearings with use of shims. Takes a while but works fine. David Edgar, TC 5108 El Cajon, California

On Thu, 20 Dec 2001, Neil Nelson wrote:

> I have received the reprint of the roller bearing conversion that was > printed in the T Type Restoration Handbook from Ben (Thank you Ben) > and have a question. The article says you should not install the > spacer tube when you make the conversion but I have read on this forum > that you should do so. The question is....... Who is right? Should > you install the spacer or not? The article says with the spacer in you > cannot get an accurate adjustment on the new bearings. Help please? > Also, does anyone know if the same conversion will work with the Alfin > hubs? (I am still considering changing to them.) Thanks gang for > your help.

Install the spacer. That article was written a LONG time ago, when common practice was to eliminate the spacer when converting to tapered roller bearings. Since then it has been found that doing so weakens the spindle assembly. With the spacer in place, it and the inner races are clamped tight by the spindle nut. The effect is to make the spindle stronger, as if you added to its diameter. Adjusting the assemble correctly is fiddley work, but essential. You should aim for about .002 - .003 inch bearing play with the nut very tight. This may mean machining the spacer to shorten it, but more often requires adding shim washers of various thicknesses to get the end play right. -- Chip Old 1948 M.G. TC TC6710 XPAG7430 NEMGTR #2271 Cub Hill, Maryland 1962 Triumph TR4 CT3154LO CT3479E fold@bcpl.net

To all, I have read these threads regarding the tapered bearing conversion with great interest. When I started living with my TC, I did not realize the small (and occasionally large) "improvements" were a constantly evolving process. The article in the NEMGTR, "T Series Handbook," is what I referred to when I did the bearing conversion. This and the "TCs Forever" book are my car "bibles." Prior to doing this, I had noticeable movement in the front wheels on the spindle, even using [b]new[/b] bearings. Following the article exactly eliminated this looseness and gave me a more predictable driving car. Several thousand miles later the front wheels are nice and tight and no problems as far as I can determine. The newer thought on the conversion keeps the spacer between the bearings as Abingdon had originally planned. This does make sense to me, as it seems as if it will add to the overall strength of the hub as a unit. As Chip indicates, the adjustment will be "fiddley work," but the final setup will be a better solution than just ball bearings in their original environment. I will once again visit my front hubs and make this "final" adjustment to add the spacer back in. The tapered bearings still make a good addition to the handling characteristics of the TC and thanks to Chip and all the others of the NEMGTR that have given all of us so many informative and entertaining articles about out wonderful old cars. Happy Holidays to everyone, Ben, TC 4260...tight hubs and accurate clock!

> The question is....... Who is right? Should you install the spacer or

not? OK, here is how it works: The stub axle is a solid rod. The spacer, clamped as it is between the inner races and against the base of the stub axle, becomes a column around the rod. A column is stronger than a rod, because of the surface area..the column has two surfaces while a rod has only one. The Brits, cleverly IMHO, designed a piece with three surfaces, thus providing immense regidity to the structure. If you take out the inner spacer, the rod that is left bends slightly and over time fractures.......with something less than good resusts. Believe me, you aren't the first guy who considered removing it, including the MGB and Spridget, and Morris guys. Many three legged dogs have resulted. Best, Ray

Message text written by INTERNET:joecurto@aol.com

>Regarding this bearing conversion the only cars with tapered roller

bearings that I have ever encountered with the spacer and shim adjustment were BMC cars, MGB and Austin Healey, I have never seen this arrangement on any American cars. Any thoughts our there as to why only they were so smart???