Wilsons Sandbox

Wim - Timken virtually invented the things, so any good bearing supplier will be able to equate other products with Timken. Because these are common sizes you don't need to mess with part numbers for the individual cups and cones, just ask for 30205 (inner) & 30304 (outer). In case you cannot find them, I have some priced at 30 British Pounds (for all 4) plus of course postage from England. cheers Roger

>I want to convert the front hubs of my Tc to tapered roller bearings. Does >anybody have the part numbers for SKF outer races and the rollers. I have the >Timken part number, but SKF bearings are easier to obtain over here. > >best regards, > > >Wim Jetten > > > > >Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ > >

Wim, Make sure you keep the original spacer that goes between the bearings. You must use shims to provide for the play. Tightening up the assembly in effect gives you a larger and stronger front stub axle. Some early conversion articles left the spacer out and I suspect a few axle failures made everyone realize the spacer had more than one purpose. David Edgar, TC 5108 El Cajon, California

>Wim - Timken virtually invented the things, so any good bearing supplier >will be able to equate other products with Timken. > > >I want to convert the front hubs of my Tc to tapered roller bearings. Does > >anybody have the part numbers for SKF outer races and the rollers. >I have the > >Timken part number, but SKF bearings are easier to obtain over here. > > > >best regards, > >> > >Wim Jetten

Wim, Please make SURE you install the inter bearing spacer, shim it as required and fully torque the stub axle nuts. Do NOT leave out the spacer or you could get a cracked stub axle on the TC . I have just re-installed my tapered roller bearings and spacers on my TC. These were first installed in 1971 and did 39,000 miles between 1971 and 1993 when I took the car off the road due to badly cracking paint ( another long sad story ). Three wheel bearings were perfect and I re-used them. The fourth had got some water in and so had some rust corrosion so I replaced it. This was an outer bearing. I had not installed any seal on the hub for the split pin access hole in the hub so some water must have got in through this hole. I now have MGA type rubber bungs inside the hubs to seal off the hole. Anybody still using the original 1/2"-26 tpi small slotted screw that was originally used by MG to seal this split pin hole in the hub? I have several screws and a 1/2-26 tap but the holes in the hub were suspect so I did not use the screws, instead used the MGA seal bungs. Incidently, as part of the front end rebuild, I magnafluxed the front stub axles, steering arms and steering drop arm and all were crack free. Regards, Bob Grunau Wim - Timken virtually invented the things, so any good bearing supplier will be able to equate other products with Timken. Because these are common sizes you don't need to mess with part numbers for the individual cups and cones, just ask for 30205 (inner) & 30304 (outer). In case you cannot find them, I have some priced at 30 British Pounds (for all 4) plus of course postage from England. Roger

>I want to convert the front hubs of my Tc to tapered roller bearings. Does >anybody have the part numbers for SKF outer races and the rollers. I have

the

>Timken part number, but SKF bearings are easier to obtain over here. >best regards, >Wim Jetten

>I have been reading this thread with some interest. I have noticed >that my front wheels have some play side to side play when lifted of >the ground. The play is in no way related to the steering gear, it >seems to be in the wheel bearings. Is this a matter for immediate >concern?

Tom, The answer is a definite "Maybe." Depends on what is causing the play and what you mean by "some." If the play is in fact in the wheel bearings and you have original ball type bearings and the axle nut is tight then if there is too much play you probably need to put in some new bearings. There are other points of play though. If lifting up the front end and then grabbing the tyre at 12 and 6 o'clock positions and you feel play, it could be the king pins, the wheel bearings or both. If rocking the tyre from the 3 and 9 o'clock positions, you may have wear in the steering linkage, wheel bearing or both. Steering linkage play could be one or more of the ball joints if you are sure it is not the gearbox. In some cases you may have spring shackle bushing wear that can cause you to wander but not necessarily be felt with the car jacked up. Is it a matter of concern? I believe many of us have driven a TC (A or B) many a mile with very loose steering at some point. Before rebuilding my steering, I drove great distances bouncing around and was dumbfounded when I pulled everything apart. Ball joints were more oval, and king pins rattled about and the steering box had one of the bearing races basicly gone. Amazing that the TC would even closely go where I pointed it but it did. On the other hand I know of a club member who had his steering in very nice working order with a nice solid feel. He broke the ball joint shaft off at the end of the pitman arm and lost all steering (on a curvy road to boot but stopped in time to avoid major disaster). Yes, always be concerned but I think it is a matter of luck sometimes that keeps us going. David Edgar, TC 5108 El Cajon, California

Ben, Your steering wheel rebuild on my car increased "play"- that is, now I like to play with the car more!! Best, Ray

----- Original Message ----- [b]From:[/b] sculptart@aol.com [b]To:[/b] mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com [b]Sent:[/b] Tuesday, December 18, 2001 1:26 PM [b]Subject:[/b] Re: [mg-tabc] Re:Tapered Roller Bearings Tom, The side to side play you describe was present in my car and I fit tapered bearings as described in the NEMGTR book. No machine work was necessary, it is reversible if desired and has eliminated a large part of the "sloppiness" in the front end of my car. Of course, the tie rod ends, drop arm, and other attachment points are suspect. I was able to reduce the play in the steering wheel from almost 6" to less than 1/2". The overall result is a much easier and predictable drive down the road. If you do not have access to the article, let me know and I will send it to you. Happy Holidays, Ben Cordsen, TC 4260 Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.