clutch/brake pedal gaiter

[George Arber]

Hi all, Just come in from my garage burning the midnight oil (again !) and in a foul mood. With a large G & T in hand , I thought that I would give you restorers of repute a few words of wisdom ! I am at the stage of our (TC EXU) restoration of fitting my new handcrafted floorboards - see I am well on the way - I decided to fit a new pedal rubber gaiter which stops the wind from blowing up your trouser legs or skirt (whatever is your preference) . NOTE....It is important that before you assemble the dreaded pedal cross shaft do make sure that you fit the gaiter and slide it up the pedals for future fitting of the base of the rubber thingy to the floorboard. As you know the brake pedal is cranked away from the clutch pedal so that it is impossible to stretch the gaiter over the said pedals from the top, even with rubber grease. I am now left with two choices. Either the wretched task of trying to remove the split pin from inside the chassis from the pedal cross shaft so that I can withdraw the shaft ( bear in mind that I have spent ages assembling the blessed thing and that the master cylinder and body tub is now in place) or removing the exhaust pipe so that I can slide the clutch pedal off the shaft . After my second G & T I have decided on the latter !! As Arnold Blackanddecker said...........".I will be back". George .Full member of the skinned knuckles club........TC EXU 7548 here in the UK

[Frank O_ The Mountain]

In a message dated 8/18/01 3:11:33 PM Pacific Daylight Time, george.arber@virgin.net writes: > There is a 3rd choice George.....cut the rubber so it will go over the pedals, then glue back together. Loctite make a special rubber glue that holds well....I don't remember the number but some of the others will. I recently streched some pedal rubbers on to my SA that were way too small by boiling them in water.....not sure what boiling woould do on TC rubbers however. I had nothing to loose with the too small rubbers. I was amazed that I was able to fit them while they were hot. terry

[Chip Old]

On Sat, 18 Aug 2001, George Arber wrote:

> NOTE....It is important that before you assemble the dreaded pedal > cross shaft do make sure that you fit the gaiter and slide it up the > pedals for future fitting of the base of the rubber thingy to the > floorboard. As you know the brake pedal is cranked away from the > clutch pedal so that it is impossible to stretch the gaiter over the > said pedals from the top, even with rubber grease. I am now left with > two choices. Either the wretched task of trying to remove the split > pin from inside the chassis from the pedal cross shaft so that I can > withdraw the shaft ( bear in mind that I have spent ages assembling > the blessed thing and that the master cylinder and body tub is now in > place) or removing the exhaust pipe so that I can slide the clutch > pedal off the shaft . After my second G & T I have decided on the > latter !!

Sounds like replacement pedal boots are still being made too thick and too stiff. The originals were stretchy enough to install over the pedals. I recall helping a friend install a moders replacement back around 1980. We were able to get it over the pedal tops thanks to liberal use of silicone spray lube, but the thing was so stiff and ungiving, the pedals wouldn't operate independently. With the clutch pedal all the way down, the brake pedal was carried along with it enough to cause noticeable brake drag. -- Chip Old 1948 M.G. TC TC6710 XPAG7430 NEMGTR #2271 Cub Hill, Maryland 1962 Triumph TR4 CT3154LO CT3479E fold@bcpl.net

[DickShaler@aol.com]

We used to just soak them in gasoline but I suppose that would be non-PC these days and most probably both the "rubber" and the "gasoline" are quite different. Dick

[DAI]

George, I was in the same position a few weeks ago. I decided to remove the split pin and slide the pedal shaft out far enough to do the job. I wetted the inside of the gaiter with white spirit, removed the pedal foot-rubbers and found I was able to push each pedal through without a problem. Reassembly was ok, and pedal shaft and split pin installed ok (an expert now at getting that split pin in whilst holding back the thackeray washer!). Foot-rubbers also wetted with white spirit and was able to stretch those on quite easily and tuck them in. It is one of those jobs that isn't apparent until one has fully admired the completion of the pedal shaft ... DAI --- George Arber george.arber@virgin.net> wrote: > Hi all,

> Just come in from my garage burning the midnight oil > (again !) and in a foul mood. With a large G & T in > hand , I thought that I would give you restorers of > repute a few words of wisdom ! > I am at the stage of our (TC EXU) restoration of > fitting my new handcrafted floorboards - see I am > well on the way - I decided to fit a new pedal > rubber gaiter which stops the wind from blowing up > your trouser legs or skirt (whatever is your > preference) . > NOTE....It is important that before you assemble > the dreaded pedal cross shaft do make sure that you > fit the gaiter and slide it up the pedals for future > fitting of the base of the rubber thingy to the > floorboard. As you know the brake pedal is cranked > away from the clutch pedal so that it is impossible > to stretch the gaiter over the said pedals from the > top, even with rubber grease. > I am now left with two choices. Either the wretched > task of trying to remove the split pin from inside > the chassis from the pedal cross shaft so that I can > withdraw the shaft ( bear in mind that I have spent > ages assembling the blessed thing and that the > master cylinder and body tub is now in place) or > removing the exhaust pipe so that I can slide the > clutch pedal off the shaft . After my second G & T I > have decided on the latter !! > > As Arnold Blackanddecker said...........".I will be > back". > > George .Full member of the skinned knuckles > club........TC EXU 7548 here in the UK > > >

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[rameismer@aol.com]

Chip had you though about another G&T and cutting one of the pedals off and putting on the boot and re welding the pedal back. this what I am planning on doing to mine.

[Chip Old]

On Sun, 19 Aug 2001 rameismer@aol.com wrote:

> Chip had you though about another G&T and cutting one of the pedals > off and putting on the boot and re welding the pedal back. this what I > am planning on doing to mine.

Sure you are. You need to lay off the G&T before you get anywhere near your TC. Anyway, I'm not the one who asked how to do it. I already know how. -- Chip Old 1948 M.G. TC TC6710 XPAG7430 NEMGTR #2271 Cub Hill, Maryland 1962 Triumph TR4 CT3154LO CT3479E fold@bcpl.net

[Paul Huck]

Which came first, the gaiter or the pedal (chicken or egg?) PTH

----- Original Message ----- From: Chip Old fold@bcpl.net> To: MG-TABC mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Sunday, August 19, 2001 10:49 PM Subject: Re: [mg-tabc] clutch/brake pedal gaiter > On Sun, 19 Aug 2001 rameismer@aol.com wrote: > > > Chip had you though about another G&T and cutting one of the pedals > > off and putting on the boot and re welding the pedal back. this what I > > am planning on doing to mine. > > Sure you are. You need to lay off the G&T before you get anywhere near > your TC. > > Anyway, I'm not the one who asked how to do it. I already know how. > > -- > Chip Old 1948 M.G. TC TC6710 XPAG7430 NEMGTR #2271 > Cub Hill, Maryland 1962 Triumph TR4 CT3154LO CT3479E > fold@bcpl.net > > > > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ > >

[George Arber]

----- Original Message ----- From: George Arber george.arber@virgin.net> To: DAI dairwin_2000@yahoo.com> Cc: mgtabc mg-tabc@egroups.com> Sent: Wednesday, August 22, 2001 8:56 PM Subject: Re: [mg-tabc] clutch/brake pedal gaiter > Dai, > My pedal set up is the same is as yours. I was referring to the right > (offside ) split pin and the end of the shaft which passes through the inner > chassis hole ( and is secured with the said pin) and is visible through the > access hole. To get at this split pin is a well known nightmare ! Some > owners have made a modification by fitting a longer shaft which protrudes > through the access hole and either securing the shaft with an accessible > split pin and washer or better still, with a circlip and drilling a grease > hole longitudinally and corresponding holes to each pedal bush. A grease > nipple is then fitted to the end of the shaft and all problems of bushing > wear, accessibility etc., etc., are eliminated. If I had my life over again > I would do the latter ! > > I agree that the fitting of the metal gaiter plate compliments the fitting > of the rubber gaiter in the fun stakes. I guess it all must be good for the > character ! > George TC EXU 7548