Front wheel bearings
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- Posts: 72
- Joined: Sun Apr 15, 2001 11:27 am
Front wheel bearings
Hi Guys
I have an 1/8th of an inch or so movement at 12 o clock/6 o clock on the
offside front wheel, not kingpins, so assumed wheel bearings needed
replacing.
Did the job, bearings seemed a good fit on the spindle....no difference,
still the same movement, it seems the bearings were ok. (traditional ball
bearings)
Then read Peter Pleitners account of new spindles, on the web site, and
noted his reference to "not daring to apply 150 lbs to ball bearings."
What is the torque that should be applied to the castellated nut and what if
the hole for the split pin doesn't line up with a gap, plus, will increased
torque make any difference to this wheel movement?
I had assumed that although the bearings seemed a snug fit, there must be
some wear on the spindle and was thinking of resorting to Loctite bearing
mount but I'm not too keen on this as a solution.
Observations will be gratefully received.
Tony TC9825
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- Posts: 40
- Joined: Thu Aug 24, 2000 10:38 pm
Re: Front wheel bearings
Tony,
The torque of 150 lbs is not applied to the race to the roller (balls), but
to the base of bearing to the bearing distance tube. Shims along with the
center distance tube set the end play.
Joe Potter
In a message dated 5/21/2001 3:01:40 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
tonygoodall@blueyonder.co.uk writes:
Hi Guys I have an 1/8th of an inch or so movement at 12 o clock/6 o clock on the offside front wheel, not kingpins, so assumed wheel bearings needed replacing. Did the job, bearings seemed a good fit on the spindle....no difference, still the same movement, it seems the bearings were ok. (traditional ball bearings) Then read Peter Pleitners account of new spindles, on the web site, and noted his reference to "not daring to apply 150 lbs to ball bearings." What is the torque that should be applied to the castellated nut and what if the hole for the split pin doesn't line up with a gap, plus, will increased torque make any difference to this wheel movement? I had assumed that although the bearings seemed a snug fit, there must be some wear on the spindle and was thinking of resorting to Loctite bearing mount but I'm not too keen on this as a solution. Observations will be gratefully received. Tony TC9825
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- Posts: 23
- Joined: Wed Aug 03, 2016 2:37 am
Re: Front wheel bearings
Tony:
When I worked as a mechanic on cars of the immediate post war era, the
following procedure was always used on ball-bearing equipped cars. Unlike
tapered-roller bearings, you don't really "torque" them down as part of the
adjustment procedure.
If you look in Factory Shop Manuals for other British cars from that period
which used ball bearings on the hubs (such as the Jaguar XK120 and Morris
Minor), all direct you to tighten the castellated nut down snug enough to
ensure that the bearings are seated all the way home. If it was necessary
for me to estimate a torque number, in my experience I'd say no more than
about 10 ft-lbs is quite adequate. You then back off the nut AT LEAST ONE
FULL FLAT OF ROTATION regardless of where the gaps are in relation to the
hole in the stub axle.. THEN KEEP LOOSENING A BIT MORE UNTIL THE NEXT GAP
LINES UP. Put the split pin in, bend it over and your done. The end float
will usually come out to be about .005" or thereabouts.
Bob Johnson
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- Posts: 233
- Joined: Thu Dec 25, 2008 3:02 pm
Re: Front wheel bearings
In a message dated 5/21/01 3:01:52 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
tonygoodall@blueyonder.co.uk writes:
>>
Then you take a little off the nut by working it down on a flat surface
(plate glass) and emory cloth....you are tightening against the spacer (is it
in there between the two bearings?), so that should not make a difference in
your movement. Needs to be very tight, torque, I'd say 60 foot pounds would
do it....most likely your movement is in the wheel splines and
spinner...wear....have someone else look while you fiddle the tire back and
forth.
I'd be delighted with only 1/8" movement!~!!
Terry