Water jacket crack

[Dwyer]

Gentlemen I've just reassembled and started up our P-type engine after an extensive engine overhaul. The good news is that mechanical noises are the least I've ever heard from it - it's like a sewing machine. The bad news is that once it got hot a weep appeared from the front face of the block, behind the dynamo. With the radiator and dynamo removed and a little pressure introduced into the remaining water system, it's possible to see beads of water coming out in several places on a line maybe 1.5 inch long, and about 1 inch down from the head gasket. I can't see a crack, even under a lens, but there must be one. Obviously I'm looking for a cure that doesn't involve taking the whole XXXXXXXX thing to pieces again. Any suggestions? Regards Dave Dwyer J2, TA, TC

[joecurto@aol.com]

Dave try some Bars-Leak this is a commercially available stop leak compound i.e. Pep Boys, Strauss etc. Perhaps this will work. On the more ambitious side "Metal Stitching " could be done. This consists of drilling and tapping special plugs into the split and then overlapping the preceding plug with the next plug. I remember seeing this stuff in a machine shop supply. You will probably have to find a machinist older than 30 who knows how to do it. Sad to say it is not the most pretty of repair. Joe

[Frank O_ The Mountain]

In a message dated 5/10/01 5:38:34 AM Pacific Daylight Time, joecurto@aol.com writes: >>

[joecurto@aol.com]

Thanks for clearing up the metal stitching storey. Remember you bought the block from Gates Willard, I only put it in the box. Joe

[Want1937hd@aol.com]

In a message dated 5/10/01 8:38:33 AM Eastern Daylight Time, joecurto@aol.com writes: >>

[joecurto@aol.com]

Bob you forget I know how much over 30 you are. Curto

[Skip Kelsey]

Joe: As today is my birthday, I really know how much over thirty I am. Actually I have passed 30 more than twice. Its great to be alive!!! Cheers; Skip Kelsey................................. At 07:49 AM 5/10/01, joecurto@aol.com wrote:

>Bob you forget I know how much over 30 you are. > >Curto >Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the >http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/>Yahoo! Terms of Service.

[Want1937hd@aol.com]

Happy Birthday Skip! You're only as old as you want to be. Bob TC4946

[Robert Johnson]

Dave:

It occurs to me that since you cannot detect a crack even when viewing under magnification you might not have a crack.

Rather, you might be dealing with a casting porosity problem causing the weeping and, drilling/stitching on the block might not be necessary at this time (ie: don't shoot a butterfly with a cannon).

As Joe commented, there are many products on the shelf at your local parts store designed to stop water leaks by filling the gaps involved. Let me add another product to the list with which we always had success back in the 40's and 50's before many of these current products were available to plug up water leaks in metal, namely sodium silicate in solution. Back in my salad days this was available at the corner market and/or pharmacy and was known as "Egg Preservative". We'd put it in the water and get the engine hot, let it cool down, and repeat the cycle several times. usually 3 cycles would do the job. Apparently it solidifies in the gaps with each cooling, building up layers. I was told that it had the approximately same coefficient of thermal expansion as cast iron and that the fix would work indefinitely. I used it many times with success on cast iron blocks and to seal radiator tube pinhole leaks. I've used the modern products as well and they seem to work just fine also. I'd sure try a "stop leak additive" approach before drilling.

Bob Johnson

[C Sherriff]

Message text written by "J.E.A.Rich"

>> Obviously I'm looking for a cure that doesn't involve taking the whole > XXXXXXXX thing to pieces again. > Any suggestions?

================================================= Have it metal stitched - epoxy stuffing does not work other than short term as the crack just carries on getting longer. Metal Stitching can usually be done with the engine still in place in a case like yours. Clive Sherriff