----- Original Message -----
From:
FDShade@aol.com
To:
mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, April 29, 2001 7:38 PM
Subject: [mg-tabc] Update from Jim
Welcome to our new member # 366
Rankin,
Steve-----srankin@island.net-----Courtenay, B.C. Canada
1948 TC 6646 XPAG 7304
===and Mr. Badger recently wrote:
Regarding the chromium plating of TC wheels, words come to mind such as,
ostentatious, pretentious, garish, and - California
===and regarding the word badger:
words come to mind such as, harrass, annoy, pester, bother, torment,
intimidate, exasperate, disturb, irk, disturb, harass, distress, molest,
and
vex
===now, if he would have quit at garish he would have heard not a thing
from
Jim Shade In West Covina California
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Message: 9
Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 10:48:04 -0400
From: "Peter Pleitner" pleitner@dundee.net>
Subject: Powder Coating Info
Hi Jim
Well said! I've used powder coating for quite some time now, but applied
professionally by a gear head ( X - GM proving grounds) not a production
shop or "decorator". As I recall there are epoxy, polyester and urethane
products. Epoxy breaks down with exposure to UV rays, and urethanes I
believe are more brittle than polyesters, but naturally brittleness is also
a function of thickness. This gear head is looking at semi retirement and
will soon publish a thin manual for consumers. I'll post info on it when
its available. And Bob Thomas was right on! - pity though he doesn't sign
his opinion.
Alan Campbell has a point though about hiding fatigue cracks. I've known
experts preparing long distance rally car to use cheap white paint on
suspension members and welds for exactly that reason - to reveal cracks
ASAP.
Cheers, Peter
-----Original Message-----
From: Chase, Jim [mailto:
Jim.Chase@fuelsubsea.com]
Sent: Monday, April 30, 2001 7:01 AM
To:
mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [mg-tabc] Powder Coating
Can anyone provide a suitable specification for powder coating of chassis
components and wire wheels?
I am not surprised at the widely differing experiences of people with regard
to powder coated or paint finishes.
There have been lots of references to powder coating but no one has even
mentioned what material they are referring to let alone the procedures used
to prepare the surface and apply the material.
I don't think the issue is whether powder coating is better than paint
coating but which powder coating or which paint finish to use and how should
it be prepared and applied.
I had a chassis powder coated. In complete ignorance I asked for black gloss
powder coating.
What I got was the chassis degreased, grit blasted, phosphate treated and
polyester powder coated. The result appears similar to a paint finish and is
tough, flexible and chip resistant. You can drop a spanner on it without any
damage.
I then had some other chassis components powder coated at a different
contractor because they were a lot closer to home. This time the contractor
degreased, grit blasted, chromate treated and powder coated the parts.
However I have no idea what type of powder was used. I need to go back and
ask so that I can avoid it in future. The results looked very similar to the
previous powder coating but the coating chips very easily.
Powder coating can be done using a wide range of materials including:-
Polyester, nylon and epoxy resins to name but a few. No doubt the resulting
coating can vary as widely as the properties of the materials used. Just
like with solvent based paints.
I am sure that degreasing abrasive blasting and some form of surface
conversion treatment (phosphate or chromate) are necessary for successful
results with powder coating, just as they are with a solvent based paint
finish.
As for solvent base paints giving evidence of rusting of the underlying
surface. I have experience of a boat trailer painted with hammerite enamel
where the metal corroded away under the paint just behind the tow hitch. By
the time the paint started to blister there was more paint than metal
holding the tow hitch to the trailer.
I am reminded of a saying that a good coat of paint can hide a multitude of
sins.
Regards
Jim Chase
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Message: 10
Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 11:51:50 -0400
From: mrbadger mrbadger@home.com>
Subject: Re: Me and the Badger
Jim - I am sure that Badger (who lives on the East Coast) only meant
those comments in warm and fuzzy way.
As did I in my response
Jim Shade West Covina CA
Well ya, that's fine. No offense taken. But, you have to admit that a
large portion of the population of the fine state of California does
have a certain, ummm, fetish for chrome, (recall the discussion on
chromium plated wheel weights). I once saw a hot rod from California,
though not an MG, with chrome upholstery, (actually, some sort of heavy
mylar or something) but I hope I'm not giving anyone out there any
ideas.
As a matter of fact, I'm a Californian myself. I was born on my dad's
ranch on the outskirts of Los Angeles. 'Course, what was outskirts
then, is now shopping centers and freeways somewhere in the vicinity of
Disneyland. And there's a lot more chrome around there now than there
was back then.
The Badger
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Message: 11
Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 16:44:27 +0100
From: "C. Knight" cliffknight@ic24.net>
Subject: Re: Powder Coating
"Chase, Jim" wrote:
>
> Can anyone provide a suitable specification for powder coating of chassis
> components and wire wheels?
Meaningful specifications for powder coating are a bit of a problem as
the process has to be set up to suit the component. Industrial users
produce their specifications after extensive trials which isn't
practical for a single set of wheels.
The best method is to find a company that already does similar work. I
was lucky enough to meet an engineer at a local company who had
experimented for his own car and did my jobs with no set up charges. The
full process involved removal of all contaminants and corrosion by
caustic dip, grit blast, and phosphate dip. A single heavy coat of a
white polyester powder was applied by electrostatic spray (some
processes use a fluidised bed) to the heated wheels which were then
stoved. A final coat of silver colour was applied and stoved again. I've
asked for a fuller spec, including bake temps/times but I was told it
would only have relevance to that company's plant.
Some modern sports racing chassis are epoxy powder coated. I have no
knowledge of the properties of epoxy v polyester beyond the obvious one
that the 2 coat process would need a thermoplastic powder. Perhaps
others can enlighten me.
I'm sure problems some listers have experienced are due to inadequate
surface preparation or unsuitable processes. My advice is choose a
supplier who has done wire wheels (or whatever you want) before and has
satisfied customers. Make sure they can adequately prepare the
components before coating. Most powder coaters are only set up to
prepare clean new components and will subcontract rusty wheels. If you
can't find a coater with experience it is probably best to spray finish
and put up with slightly less durability.
Quality of powder finishes can be the equal of any wet paint process. It
can even be hand rubbed and polished if you want to see your face in the
rims, although it may be cheaper to chrome plate especially if the batch
includes the wings/fenders!!!!!!.
Hope the above is not too long and of some help
Cliff
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Message: 12
Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 20:31:40 +0100
From: "C. Knight" cliffknight@ic24.net>
Subject: Re: thrust bearing
Ted Gantz wrote:
>
> Does any one have a source for a thrust bearing. Working on the
> transmission of my 1938 TA it was decided that it would be wise to
> replace the transmission thrust bearing.
Try Sports and Vintage Motors of Shrewsbury UK on +44 (0) 1939 210458 or
fax +44 (0) 1939 210644
They have supplied them in the past
Cliff
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Message: 13
Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 16:48:14 -0400
From: "Tammy Greaves" t.greaves@hyperlinx.net>
Subject: Fw: Paint for wire wheels
After I posted my last question about a "correct looking" shade of silver
for the wire wheels Rob Johnson of the List suggested I contact British Wire
Wheel and ask them what they used. I must admit I was a little hesitant
thinking they might consider it a sort of ...confidential trade
information.. I was very pleasantly surprised when the next day the
company sent out the information.
Good show for them. I will be sending another message thanking them for
sharing this.
Rob Greaves
----- Original Message -----
From: "British Wire Wheel -- Jim Judd" sales@britishwirewheel.com>
To: t.greaves@hyperlinx.net>
Sent: Monday, April 30, 2001 2:00 PM
Subject: Paint for wire wheels
> Hi Rob. Dayton uses an acrylic enamel made by Dupont. It is known as:
> Dupont 44716-A, Silver-Gray.
>
> Jim Judd - British Wire Wheel
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: sales@britishwirewheel.com>
> To: sales@britishwirewheel.com>
> I have bought a 1949 MGTC and I need to paint the
> silver metal spoke wheels. Would you mind telling me the type/colour code
> of the paint you use. I assume you use a pretty tough paint like a
> urethane? Thankyou,
> >
> > Rob Greaves
>
>
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Message: 14
Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 20:12:54 EDT
From:
LuckyFloridaLin@aol.com
Subject: Re: Fw: Paint for wire wheels
Dear Rob ; Do you want to share your inside info? Tally Ho! Thom Collins
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Message: 15
Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 21:07:50 EDT
From:
taterry@aol.com
Subject: Oil in the water?
My machinist suggested today that I put some water soluble oil like that
used
for machining parts into the cooling system to prevent rust from forming.
Claims that a racer friend of his has been doing this for years to lube the
water pump. Has anyone else heard of doing this? I failed to get the brand
name from him but he said they get it at the industrial supply company.
Terry
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Message: 16
Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 22:32:13 EDT
From:
JTPAKI@aol.com
Subject: Re: Oil in the water?
Terry,
You can get it at NAPA. It is listed as water pump lube and is on the
shelf.
It is water soluble oil. It is milky white in color.
Joe Potter
Eugene, Oregon USA
www.hometown.aol.com/capaciousmg/vasale/vamain.html
http://hometown.aol.com/jtpaki/index.html
In a message dated 4/30/2001 6:09:45 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
taterry@aol.com writes:
> My machinist suggested today that I put some water soluble oil like that
> used
> for machining parts into the cooling system to prevent rust from forming.
> Claims that a racer friend of his has been doing this for years to lube
the
> water pump. Has anyone else heard of doing this? I failed to get the
> brand
> name from him but he said they get it at the industrial supply company.
> Terry
>
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Message: 17
Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 22:57:01 EDT
From:
Emgeeguy@aol.com
Subject: Re: Me and the Badger
In a message dated 4/30/01 10:56:50 AM Central Daylight Time,
mrbadger@home.com writes:
> with chrome upholstery, (actually, some sort of heavy
> mylar or something) but I hope I'm not giving anyone out there any
> ideas.
>
Hmmmmm. I wonder if I can get a tonneau made for my TC and TD with that. Or
maybe a hood for the J2. Should match the chrome plated under side of the
fenders well. Good idea, Badger--Thanks!
Larry
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Message: 18
Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 22:58:42 EDT
From:
Emgeeguy@aol.com
Subject: Re: Fw: Paint for wire wheels
In a message dated 4/30/01 4:12:43 PM Central Daylight Time,
t.greaves@hyperlinx.net writes:
> I was very pleasantly surprised when the next day the
> company sent out the information.
>
>
So, what was the information? Can you share it?
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Message: 19
Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 19:00:24 -0700
From: "bobgthomas" bobgthomas@earthlink.net>
Subject: RE: Oil in the water?
Hi Terry
I may be wrong but I always understood that( rust prevention ) was one of
the major reasons for using antifreeze here in warm climates. The other two
being a lubricant for the water pump seal and better heat transfer than
plain water. Also, the maintaining of these characteristics is the cause
for replacing the antifreeze every 2 years.
Bob Thomas
-----Original Message-----
From:
taterry@aol.com [mailto:
taterry@aol.com]
Sent: Monday, April 30, 2001 6:08 PM
To: T-ABCs_Forever
Subject: [mg-tabc] Oil in the water?
My machinist suggested today that I put some water soluble oil like that
used
for machining parts into the cooling system to prevent rust from forming.
Claims that a racer friend of his has been doing this for years to lube the
water pump. Has anyone else heard of doing this? I failed to get the brand
name from him but he said they get it at the industrial supply company.
Terry
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http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
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Message: 20
Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 21:08:32 -0700
From: "Ed Dunn" eedunn@home.com>
Subject: Re:
Steve, go to our web site and intothe special files (I think), there you
> will find an article by Andy Bradley and how to fix the rear main seal
once
> and for all. This is the only bullet proof way to do it. The Moss seal
has
> had problems and has been tweaked to a point where it should now work, but
> only if your engine has been done in the last 6 months or so. I'd go with
> Andy's method if I was doing an XPAG again.
> Terry in Oakland
Plus, I think Andy is pretty close to where you are Steve. Give him a call.
EED
TC0275
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Message: 21
Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 21:23:27 -0700
From: David and Joyce Edgar djedgar@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: Fw: Paint for wire wheels
For those that did not read the complete message from Rob, the
message from British Wire Wheel was included after Robs message. I
copied it and include it below. Read on for the color code.
David Edgar, TC 5108
El Cajon, California (and no chrome fenders) (nor chrome wheels)
----- Original Message -----
From: "British Wire Wheel -- Jim Judd" sales@britishwirewheel.com>
To: t.greaves@hyperlinx.net>
Sent: Monday, April 30, 2001 2:00 PM
Subject: Paint for wire wheels
> Hi Rob. Dayton uses an acrylic enamel made by Dupont. It is known as:
> Dupont 44716-A, Silver-Gray.
>
> Jim Judd - British Wire Wheel
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Message: 22
Date: Tue, 1 May 2001 02:42:09 -0400
From: Roger Muir rogermuir@compuserve.com>
Subject: Re: thrust bearing
Ted Gantz wrote:
>
> Does any one have a source for a thrust bearing. Working on the
> transmission of my 1938 TA it was decided that it would be wise to
> replace the transmission thrust bearing.
I used Bearing Ref G451b from NTG . It is the same as the Pinion bearing
for the rear axle.
Incidentally if you take your bearing ,any roller bearing come to that, to
a reputable bearing supplier, they should be able to match your bearing.
In spite of the age of our cars many many bearings are still being produced
to the same sizes and spec.,usally to improved specs with todays
engineering. Try a bearing supplier not a car spares supplier, they have
to buy their bearings from somewhere. Also bespoke bearing supplier have
vast data sheets for size and use.
Roger Muir (Bromsgrove England)
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Message: 23
Date: Tue, 01 May 2001 00:15:25 -0700
From: "John T. Seim" kingseim@earthlink.net>
Subject: Craig Seabrook - The Whitworth Shop
I knew that Craig Seabrook turned out excellent woodwork for our cars,
but had no idea how well the instrument dashboard restorations were. Oh,
yes, I knew that he could silkscreen the instrument panels for TA-TB-TC,
chrome the instrument panels, and paint them. But I didn't know what
else he did, until recently. Do you have original starter or choke
cables? These can be remanufactured to new condition, keeping the
original knobs, but new cables, sheath, rechromed socket. Better than
any reproduction item that you will find. He can refurbish all
components found on the instrument panel. The finished work looks like
it belongs on a more expensive vehicle than a MG. Considering what you
will pay for a reproduction part, and what you lose in quality, it is a
pleasure to know where to find a source for superior parts.
John Seim
Irvine, CA
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Message: 24
Date: Tue, 01 May 2001 11:03:14 +0200
From:
Zissel-Kreuztal@t-online.de
Subject: Re: Oil in the water?/rust in engine
bobgthomas schrieb:
> Hi Terry
>
> I may be wrong but I always understood that( rust prevention ) was one of
> the major reasons for using antifreeze here in warm climates. The other
two
> being a lubricant for the water pump seal and better heat transfer than
> plain water. Also, the maintaining of these characteristics is the cause
> for replacing the antifreeze every 2 years.
>
Hi T-Typers:
Another important thing is he water. Normal water has too much oxigene (O2)
inside. And oxigene + water = rust. If we use destilled water and
antifreeze,
we ll never have problems with rust!
Greetings lozi (TC3762)
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Message: 25
Date: Tue, 1 May 2001 10:44:49 +0100
From: "Chase, Jim" Jim.Chase@fuelsubsea.com>
Subject: Gudgeon Pin Clamp Screws
Gudgeon Pin Clamp Screws
Does anyone know of a UK source for socket head cap screws M8 size, fine
1.0mm pitch, grade 10.9, suitable for use as gudgeon pin clamp screws for
the XPAG engine.
Alternatively a socket with walls thin enough to enable tightening of the
original style hex head screws using a torque wrench.
Regards,
Jim Chase
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