Wilsons Sandbox

In the postings on gluing body timbers:

>If you are talking about the wood joints, don't glue them - the

chassis is so flexible that the tub has to move about as well. Rolls Royce coachbuilders used to put thin leather between wood sections to stop any squeaking. another thing, do NOT use brass screws, they are too weak, and even zinc plated steel gets corroded by the acids in the wood use Stainless Steel, you should have no trouble getting them. ocTagonally Roger I have found that the SS screws available here are a gauge under their nominal size. e.g., a 10ga screw is really equivalent to a 9ga screw. I've used plain steel screws for the trial fit-up and want to replace them in SS but using the same nominal gauge the screws will not be tight enough. If I go one size up they will be a bit too big, particularly where the head sits in a countersunk hole in a bracket (e.g. "Z" and "L" brackets behind the dash). Has anyone (especially those listers in Oz) found a supplier whose SS screws are the proper size? Mark Jablonski Melbourne Australia

Mark Why not use silicon bronze wood screws with cut threads? Much stronger than brass and probably more corrosion resistant than stainless steel in the conditions likely to prevail. Any good builder of wooden boats should be able to tell you where to buy them. David Cameron

>Mark > >I found the same thing several years back when I built my TC body. I was >told that no stainless screws are made in Australia: apparently they are all >made in Taiwan. > >These screws are on the absolute bottom limit of size for the claimed guage, >and the only solution I could see was to buy the next size up. Apart from >not fitting the countersinks in the brackets, they also don't match the >profiled drills which are obtainable to facilitate woodscrewing. > >Sorry, no good news. > >Regards > >Dave Dwyer > > > > > > >Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ > > > >