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Gearshift lever
Posted: Sat Feb 03, 2001 9:44 am
by David and Joyce Edgar
Before I ask the gearshift lever question I want to thank everyone
for their input on the leafspring lube question I posed earlier. The
chain lube sounds easiest and the Mylar interesting.
Over the last 30 years I have put up with my gearshift lever rotating
in the socket. Hence the MG logo on my knob ends up facing every
which way but a quick twist brings it back into line if I want.
Never has bothered me enough to fix it but I am at a point in
reassemby that I could fix it if I wanted to. The Moss catalog shows
two pins that locate the lever to prevent it from twisting around.
Mine are long gone. Previous owner evidently had the end of the
aluminum cover break off (right where the pin holes are) and had it
welded up again. I see where there the holes should be so could
drill them out again. How are the pins held in? If tight like a
roll pin, then how do you get them back out if needed? Do the pins
extend out past the exterior of the housing so you can grab them and
pull them out?
David Edgar, TC 5108
La Mesa, California
Re: Gearshift lever
Posted: Sun Feb 04, 2001 5:08 pm
by Bob Grunau
Over the last 30 years I have put up with my gearshift lever rotating
in the socket. Hence the MG logo on my knob ends up facing every
which way but a quick twist brings it back into line if I want.
Never has bothered me enough to fix it but I am at a point in
reassemby that I could fix it if I wanted to. The Moss catalog shows
two pins that locate the lever to prevent it from twisting around.
Mine are long gone.
Replace pins with two 1/4" NC bolts with ends ground down slightly to clear
lever slot. Tap housing 1/4" NC and Loctite bolts in p[lace.
Previous owner evidently had the end of the
aluminum cover break off (right where the pin holes are) and had it
welded up again. I see where there the holes should be so could
drill them out again. How are the pins held in?
Originally light press fit and ends peened over. I have successfully used
tapped holes and 1/4" NC bolts.
If tight like a
roll pin, then how do you get them back out if needed?
Taper wedge drift between gear lever and housing.
Do the pins
extend out past the exterior of the housing so you can grab them and
pull them out?
No, flush and peened over. But bolt heads protrude but this is no problem.
Bob
Re: Gearshift lever
Posted: Mon Feb 05, 2001 10:20 am
by avanparys@viperlink.net
--- In mg-tabc@y..., David and Joyce Edgar wrote:
> Before I ask the gearshift lever question I want to thank everyone
> for their input on the leafspring lube question I posed earlier.
The
> chain lube sounds easiest and the Mylar interesting.
>
> Over the last 30 years I have put up with my gearshift lever
rotating
> in the socket. Hence the MG logo on my knob ends up facing every
> which way but a quick twist brings it back into line if I want.
> Never has bothered me enough to fix it but I am at a point in
> reassemby that I could fix it if I wanted to. The Moss catalog
shows
> two pins that locate the lever to prevent it from twisting around.
> Mine are long gone. Previous owner evidently had the end of the
> aluminum cover break off (right where the pin holes are) and had it
> welded up again. I see where there the holes should be so could
> drill them out again. How are the pins held in? If tight like a
> roll pin, then how do you get them back out if needed? Do the pins
> extend out past the exterior of the housing so you can grab them
and
> pull them out?
>
> David Edgar, TC 5108
> La Mesa, California
Dave,
Just finished removing and replacing the pins in mine (had the
shift lever re-chromed). Pins were in tight. Like Bob says, the
pins have a head which fits in a recess in the side of the housing
and is peened over to hold in. Had to first drill out peening, then
force out one side. Once that was out, the shift lever comes out and
the other pin can be more easily be tapped out with a drift.
Assembly is obviously easier. In your case, a careful session with a
drill press to line up the holes should do it. Get the pins first,
of course, for hole sizing to ensure a snug fit, counter drill for
the heads, and you should be set.
VR
- Terry V.P.
Charleston S.C.