Page 1 of 1
Re: Greasing Chassis etc
Posted: Thu Feb 01, 2001 11:01 am
by PMS GB Ltd
Message text written by Chip Old
>Pump grease until it starts to ooze out of whatever is being greased, then
wipe off the excess. If you're greasing a load-bearing joint, remove the
load before greasing. For example, before greasing the kink pins, jack up
the front of the car under the chassis (not under the axle).
Re: Greasing Chassis etc
Posted: Thu Feb 01, 2001 11:18 am
by Chip Old
On Thu, 1 Feb 2001, PMS GB Ltd wrote to Chip Old:
> Can I modify this to:-
> Pump grease until CLEAN GREASE starts to ooze out of whatever is being
> greased.........
Agreed. Another case of my typing finger (singular intended) working
faster than my brain. Pumping until clean grease comes out is especially
important on a T-Type, where the greasable joints aren't protected from
dirt. Dirt plus grease makes an excellent abrasive paste!
> Nit picking but important - When some years back the successful
> attempts were made on a lot of old UK records (up to 24 hours) with
> various pre war MMM MGs I ran one of the maintenance teams. We pulled
> the cars in every 500 miles for servicing and it was amazing how dry
> springs etc became - The MG maintenance instructions to grease things
> every 1500 miles is a gross overestimate in my experience! %00 realy
> sounds much better!
Agreed again. Back when my TC was still my daily driver (yeah, it was a
LONG time ago) I discovered the same thing. Problem is none of the
greasable joints are sealed, so the lubricant doesn't stay put for very
long. I got in the habit of doing a grease job as soon as possible after
driving in the rain, because most of the grease washed out.
Silicone-based grease lasts longer under those conditions, but is
expensive and not always easy to find.
--
Chip Old 1948 M.G. TC TC6710 XPAG7430 NEMGTR #2271
Cub Hill, Maryland 1962 Triumph TR4 CT3154LO CT3479E
fold@bcpl.net