Re: Greasing Chassis etc

[PMS GB Ltd]

Message text written by Chip Old

>Pump grease until it starts to ooze out of whatever is being greased, then

wipe off the excess. If you're greasing a load-bearing joint, remove the load before greasing. For example, before greasing the kink pins, jack up the front of the car under the chassis (not under the axle).

[Chip Old]

On Thu, 1 Feb 2001, PMS GB Ltd wrote to Chip Old:

> Can I modify this to:- > Pump grease until CLEAN GREASE starts to ooze out of whatever is being > greased.........

Agreed. Another case of my typing finger (singular intended) working faster than my brain. Pumping until clean grease comes out is especially important on a T-Type, where the greasable joints aren't protected from dirt. Dirt plus grease makes an excellent abrasive paste!

> Nit picking but important - When some years back the successful > attempts were made on a lot of old UK records (up to 24 hours) with > various pre war MMM MGs I ran one of the maintenance teams. We pulled > the cars in every 500 miles for servicing and it was amazing how dry > springs etc became - The MG maintenance instructions to grease things > every 1500 miles is a gross overestimate in my experience! %00 realy > sounds much better!

Agreed again. Back when my TC was still my daily driver (yeah, it was a LONG time ago) I discovered the same thing. Problem is none of the greasable joints are sealed, so the lubricant doesn't stay put for very long. I got in the habit of doing a grease job as soon as possible after driving in the rain, because most of the grease washed out. Silicone-based grease lasts longer under those conditions, but is expensive and not always easy to find. -- Chip Old 1948 M.G. TC TC6710 XPAG7430 NEMGTR #2271 Cub Hill, Maryland 1962 Triumph TR4 CT3154LO CT3479E fold@bcpl.net