My dear Badger,
What a pleasure it is once again to read your pearls of wisdom after an
unforgivably long absence from this list. Welcome back. BTW, this Crown
Prince of Tonga - is he the same cad who was disqualified from competing in
the famed Grand Prix of Gibraltar (circa Peter Ustinov) for having his
engine blown by several lusty maidens?
As ever
Joe
Re: Engine Break In
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- Posts: 14
- Joined: Fri Jun 18, 2004 10:37 am
Re: Engine Break In
Yes that crossed my mind too.
Gene Roth
Gene Roth
----- Original Message -----
From: D&J Edgar
To: TABC
Sent: Thursday, September 29, 2005 1:29 PM
Subject: Re: [mg-tabc] Engine Break In
> There is another method, find a deserted road and while in high gear slow to
> approx. 15 MPH and put the throttle to the floor to approx. 40 MPH, do this
> several times. The theory is it washes down the cylinder walls and accelerates
> wear thus faster seating of the rings.
I often wondered if this method would work with SU carbs. I can see it
working with a carb with an accelerator pump but not sure with an SU or even
modern fuel injection. But what about accelerating with the choke pulled
down on the SU? That would enrich the mixture to do a wash possibly.
David Edgar, TC 5108
El Cajon, California
Yahoo! Groups Links
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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- Posts: 143
- Joined: Sat Oct 02, 2004 4:43 am
Re: Engine Break In
Ummm
Sorry to inject this, but usually I just hone the cylinders to size using
the correct cross hatch pattern. I use chromoly rings which seat instantly
upon light up. The chrome portion gives good longevity.
Perhaps investigating newer designs of rings might be worthwhile for those
who are building their own engines.
If the engines are built using correct clearances, careful attention to
details such as ring-end gap, weight equilization, volumn equilization, etc.
you won't have to dump sand down the engine to "seat" (ruin) the rings.
Pulling the engine back out is a pain. If it is done right the first time,
you don't have to do so.
Now, if you have a engine that the rings won't seat, pull it out and make it
right.
Best,
Ray
"Spes mea in Deo est"
Sorry to inject this, but usually I just hone the cylinders to size using
the correct cross hatch pattern. I use chromoly rings which seat instantly
upon light up. The chrome portion gives good longevity.
Perhaps investigating newer designs of rings might be worthwhile for those
who are building their own engines.
If the engines are built using correct clearances, careful attention to
details such as ring-end gap, weight equilization, volumn equilization, etc.
you won't have to dump sand down the engine to "seat" (ruin) the rings.
Pulling the engine back out is a pain. If it is done right the first time,
you don't have to do so.
Now, if you have a engine that the rings won't seat, pull it out and make it
right.
Best,
Ray
"Spes mea in Deo est"
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rothgene Roth"
To: "TABC" ; "D&J Edgar"
Sent: Sunday, October 02, 2005 5:38 PM
Subject: Re: [mg-tabc] Engine Break In
> Yes that crossed my mind too.
> Gene Roth
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: D&J Edgar
> To: TABC
> Sent: Thursday, September 29, 2005 1:29 PM
> Subject: Re: [mg-tabc] Engine Break In
>
>
> > There is another method, find a deserted road and while in high gear
> slow to
> > approx. 15 MPH and put the throttle to the floor to approx. 40 MPH, do
> this
> > several times. The theory is it washes down the cylinder walls and
> accelerates
> > wear thus faster seating of the rings.
>
> I often wondered if this method would work with SU carbs. I can see it
> working with a carb with an accelerator pump but not sure with an SU or
> even
> modern fuel injection. But what about accelerating with the choke pulled
> down on the SU? That would enrich the mixture to do a wash possibly.
>
> David Edgar, TC 5108
> El Cajon, California
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
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