Re: (unknown)

[Frank O_ The Mountain]

In a message dated 00-06-13 14:47:34 EDT, alviss@hotmail.com writes:

[Harry Pyle]

Dear All

From The TC Owners Club...

TC9370 XPAG10061
TC9402 10028
TC9427 10081

From the Aust T Series Assoc

TC9360 10068
TC9375 10075
TC9391 10065
TC9497 10097

Hope this helps.

Regards Harry.

----- Original Message -----
From: Ron Beaudoin
To:
Sent: Friday, June 16, 2000 1:39 AM
Subject: [mg-tabc] (unknown)


> >
> >If the engine is XPAG 10083, and if it is the original engine, then the
> car is a very late TC (1949, and probably fairly late in the year).
>
> If it's any help to you, my TC is a late '49 with XPAG10190 and frame
> number of 9448. Maybe you could also check out the serial numbers of
> the Australian site to get even closer to get an approximation of
> your number.
>
> Ron Beaudoin
> TC9448
>
>
>
>

[tim.fiona.miller]

Dear Don

You should use a proper hydraulic oil. Penrite Oil's Shock Oil 1 will do
the job. (I used to work for them 5 or 6 years ago). Their stockists are
on their web site www.penrite.co.uk.

Alternatively fork oil from a motorcycle shop will probably do the job
although I am not sure exactly what viscosities they use.

Tim Miller
Ross-on-Wye
TA0264

----- Original Message -----
From: Don Phillips
To:
Sent: Monday, August 27, 2001 8:05 AM
Subject: [mg-tabc] (unknown)


> The original owners manual for my MG TC 1948 model tells me to check the
> shock absorber fluid levels every 6000 miles and to top up with "shock
> absorber fluid" if necessary.
> Does anyone know what this fluid is and its modern day equivalent?
> Hope someone can help.
> Regards
> Don Phillips
>
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[2vps@home.com]

Sorry for the late reply, but just getting caught up with all the e-mail.
20 wt fork oil is what I used, though 30 wt can be used if you like a firmer
ride (relative in our cars). Make sure you use some kind of shock oil or
the fork oil, as they have foaming inhibitors that oils, like motor oil, do
not have.

VR
- Terry V.P.

----- Original Message -----
From: tim.fiona.miller
To: ; Don Phillips
Sent: Monday, August 27, 2001 8:08 AM
Subject: Re: [mg-tabc] (unknown)


> Dear Don
>
> You should use a proper hydraulic oil. Penrite Oil's Shock Oil 1 will do
> the job. (I used to work for them 5 or 6 years ago). Their stockists are
> on their web site www.penrite.co.uk.
>
> Alternatively fork oil from a motorcycle shop will probably do the job
> although I am not sure exactly what viscosities they use.
>
> Tim Miller
> Ross-on-Wye
> TA0264
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Don Phillips
> To:
> Sent: Monday, August 27, 2001 8:05 AM
> Subject: [mg-tabc] (unknown)
>
>
> > The original owners manual for my MG TC 1948 model tells me to check the
> > shock absorber fluid levels every 6000 miles and to top up with "shock
> > absorber fluid" if necessary.
> > Does anyone know what this fluid is and its modern day equivalent?
> > Hope someone can help.
> > Regards
> > Don Phillips
> >
> > _________________________________________________________________
> > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>

[Robert Grunau]

Is there anything wrong with using ordinary hydraulic oil in a shock
absorber that has been rebuilt with modern lip seals? I too have been using
20 wt. fork oil but the ordinary hydraulic oil is much easier to find and a
lot less expensive.
Bob

Sorry for the late reply, but just getting caught up with all the e-mail.
20 wt fork oil is what I used, though 30 wt can be used if you like a firmer
ride (relative in our cars). Make sure you use some kind of shock oil or
the fork oil, as they have foaming inhibitors that oils, like motor oil, do
not have.

VR
- Terry V.P.

> You should use a proper hydraulic oil. Penrite Oil's Shock Oil 1 will do
> the job. (I used to work for them 5 or 6 years ago). Their stockists are
> on their web site www.penrite.co.uk.
>
> Alternatively fork oil from a motorcycle shop will probably do the job
> although I am not sure exactly what viscosities they use.
>
> Tim Miller
> Ross-on-Wye
> TA0264
>
>
>
> > The original owners manual for my MG TC 1948 model tells me to check the
> > shock absorber fluid levels every 6000 miles and to top up with "shock
> > absorber fluid" if necessary.
> > Does anyone know what this fluid is and its modern day equivalent?
> > Hope someone can help.
> > Regards
> > Don Phillips

[CFritz7001@aol.com]

Bob & all,
I can't imagine how hydraulic "jack" oil or motorcycle "fork" oil would
damage modern seals, which are made from highly oil-resistant synthetic
"rubber". (Any of these might attack the original seals in time, but most of
the original seals fitted to TCs were shot a long time ago, and need
replacement anyway!) Ther than the seals, I don't think there is any other
internal part of the shocks which could be damaged by using "non-official"
oil in them.
I started using "jack" oil in my TC's shocks years ago, and have
experienced no problem that was traceable to this. This stuff is easily
available and MUCH cheaper than the genuine stuff.
Regards,
Carl Fritz
TC # 6756 (Betsy)
VA # 2009 S (Abigail)
Gainesville, Florida

[Ray McCrary]

Most of the motorcycle fork oil has a seal swelling agent that keeps the
shocks from leaking, as well as a higher working temp without breaking down
and making varnish. If you don't heat up the shocks much by cycling them,
the hydraulic oil is probably OK, but you don't know the weight of the
stuff.
If you are "making do" this is probably not a factor.
Best,
Ray McCrary
"Speed is Life;
of course Luck and Altitude
are helpful, too."

[joecurto@aol.com]

Dick the tool we use for ages is similar to the one you described but the
movable legs attach to the studs, not the outer rim, this is preferable
because the drum does not distort and you can get the most stubborn ones off.
Ours is a Snap-On which when last seen in the catalogue was in the 200.00
dollar ranges (OUCH) but I got one from Sears years ago and it was
reasonable. I suggest a trip to a "Real" auto parts store.

Joe Curto

[Austin R. Baer]

Me again, Dick... I just accessed www.harborfreight.com , entered "puller" in the word search, and half-a-dozen items came up, some of which should be just about right. Austin

----- Original Message ----- From: Richard.F.Lange@Boeing.com To: 'mg-tabc@egroups.com' Sent: Thursday, September 06, 2001 1:48 PM Subject: [mg-tabc] (unknown)

Subject: Brake Drum Puller


I have two TCs, Two TDs and now a TF. About once a year, I need to pull off
one or more of the front brake drums, and I always go down to my tool rental
shop and rent an old fashion wheel puller. I am now trying to buy one,
and have visted several tool shops, but can't find the old style. Let me
describe what I am looking for.

The wheel/brake drum puller looks like a 12" long bolt, with a 12" long bar
with a nut in the middle. Hanging off the bar are sliding hooks, that can
be hooked onto the side of the brake drum (180 degrees apart), and when the
bolt is screwed in - the end is place on the end of the shaft the brake drum
is attached to. It works great, and because it is adjustable, it can be
used to pull a lot of other things as well...

Does anybody have a tool like this for sale, or can recommend where to
purchase one? I'm giving a tech session in 4 weeks, on front A-frame
replacement, and need to get my drums off one more time.
Dick Lange
Boeing Commercial Airplane Group
DCAC-MRM PROJECT SUPPORT, BUILD TEAM
7-206 3D1-2.1, M/S 6M-HR, Fax (425) 965-6655
Phone : (425 ) 965-6789 Pager: (206) 416-3663
Cell Phone (425)941-0385 Home Phone (425)481-3063





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[Wiedemeyer]

Dick,

I just bought one, almost exactly as you describe, about 2 months ago from
Eastwood. It was around $12, I think, and it works great!!

Bob

>
>Subject: Brake Drum Puller
>
>
>I have two TCs, Two TDs and now a TF. About once a year, I need to pull

off

>one or more of the front brake drums, and I always go down to my tool

rental

>shop and rent an old fashion wheel puller. I am now trying to buy one,
>and have visted several tool shops, but can't find the old style. Let me
>describe what I am looking for.
>
>The wheel/brake drum puller looks like a 12" long bolt, with a 12" long bar
>with a nut in the middle. Hanging off the bar are sliding hooks, that can
>be hooked onto the side of the brake drum (180 degrees apart), and when the
>bolt is screwed in - the end is place on the end of the shaft the brake

drum

>is attached to. It works great, and because it is adjustable, it can be
>used to pull a lot of other things as well...
>
>Does anybody have a tool like this for sale, or can recommend where to
>purchase one? I'm giving a tech session in 4 weeks, on front A-frame
>replacement, and need to get my drums off one more time.
> Dick Lange