Re: shock absorber bushings

[Steve Plath]

While my shocks were out of the car I decided to replace the bushings. I
ordered new bushings and the install tools from Moss. When I received
everything from Moss I read over the instructions a couple of times to make
sure I was doing things right. The instructions recommended using a drill
press, but I didn't have a drill press immediately available so I used a big
vice which the instructions said would be an adequate substitute. When I
tried pressing the bushings into the eyes it was almost too easy. I used
dish soap as a lubricant like the instructions recommended and then let the
bushings sit in the eye for a day or two so the bushings wouldn't slide
around when I pressed in the links and studs.

My problems started when I attempted to press in the first stud. Even
though I lubricated the pilot (tool from Moss) liberally it pushed the
bushing partially out of the eye forcing the base away from the eye and
cutting a big chunk of rubber out of the bushing. I read the instructions a
couple more times and it appeared I did everything as instructed. I tried
clamping the base to the eye, but the same thing happened with the rubber
being forced between the base and the eye and a big chunk of rubber being
cut out. I've tried a couple more times with slightly different tactics
with the same result. I did manage to get a couple of studs into the links,
but they are missing some of the rubber.

What am I doing wrong. Is there some secret word that needs to be uttered
during the process (I tried a few, but my wife came out and told me to calm
down). Help, I'm getting tired of ordering new bushings. Any ideas out
there.

Steve Plath
48 TC 5731

[Charles Hill]

Steve,

Several of us have had the same results as you. You might want to check
the archives for reports on those experiences. I gave up and sent the
shocks and links to Peter Caldwell at World Wide Auto Parts
(http://www.nosimport.com).

Regards,
Charles Hill

Steve Plath wrote:

>While my shocks were out of the car I decided to replace the bushings. I
>ordered new bushings and the install tools from Moss. When I received
>everything from Moss I read over the instructions a couple of times to make
>sure I was doing things right. The instructions recommended using a drill
>press, but I didn't have a drill press immediately available so I used a big
>vice which the instructions said would be an adequate substitute. When I
>tried pressing the bushings into the eyes it was almost too easy. I used
>dish soap as a lubricant like the instructions recommended and then let the
>bushings sit in the eye for a day or two so the bushings wouldn't slide
>around when I pressed in the links and studs.
>
>My problems started when I attempted to press in the first stud. Even
>though I lubricated the pilot (tool from Moss) liberally it pushed the
>bushing partially out of the eye forcing the base away from the eye and
>cutting a big chunk of rubber out of the bushing. I read the instructions a
>couple more times and it appeared I did everything as instructed. I tried
>clamping the base to the eye, but the same thing happened with the rubber
>being forced between the base and the eye and a big chunk of rubber being
>cut out. I've tried a couple more times with slightly different tactics
>with the same result. I did manage to get a couple of studs into the links,
>but they are missing some of the rubber.
>
>What am I doing wrong. Is there some secret word that needs to be uttered
>during the process (I tried a few, but my wife came out and told me to calm
>down). Help, I'm getting tired of ordering new bushings. Any ideas out
>there.
>
>Steve Plath
>48 TC 5731
>
>
>
>
>

[John Patterson]

Hi Troupes
`I ruined a dozen new bushings and wasted $50 on Moss's tools with the same
results before sending the whole works to World Wide Auto Parts in Madison
Wisconsin. Peter will rebuild them and rebush them and guarantee them for as
long as you own your TC.
John Patterson TC 7025



-----Original Message-----
From: mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com [mailto:mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf
Of Charles Hill
Sent: Sunday, September 04, 2005 12:24 AM
To: mg tc group
Subject: Re: [mg-tabc] shock absorber bushings


Steve,

Several of us have had the same results as you. You might want to check
the archives for reports on those experiences. I gave up and sent the
shocks and links to Peter Caldwell at World Wide Auto Parts
(http://www.nosimport.com).

Regards,
Charles Hill

Steve Plath wrote:

>While my shocks were out of the car I decided to replace the bushings. I
>ordered new bushings and the install tools from Moss. When I received
>everything from Moss I read over the instructions a couple of times to make
>sure I was doing things right. The instructions recommended using a drill
>press, but I didn't have a drill press immediately available so I used a

big

>vice which the instructions said would be an adequate substitute. When I
>tried pressing the bushings into the eyes it was almost too easy. I used
>dish soap as a lubricant like the instructions recommended and then let the
>bushings sit in the eye for a day or two so the bushings wouldn't slide
>around when I pressed in the links and studs.
>
>My problems started when I attempted to press in the first stud. Even
>though I lubricated the pilot (tool from Moss) liberally it pushed the
>bushing partially out of the eye forcing the base away from the eye and
>cutting a big chunk of rubber out of the bushing. I read the instructions

a

>couple more times and it appeared I did everything as instructed. I tried
>clamping the base to the eye, but the same thing happened with the rubber
>being forced between the base and the eye and a big chunk of rubber being
>cut out. I've tried a couple more times with slightly different tactics
>with the same result. I did manage to get a couple of studs into the

links,

>but they are missing some of the rubber.
>
>What am I doing wrong. Is there some secret word that needs to be uttered
>during the process (I tried a few, but my wife came out and told me to calm
>down). Help, I'm getting tired of ordering new bushings. Any ideas out
>there.
>
>Steve Plath
>48 TC 5731
>
>
>
>
>

Yahoo! Groups Links

[joecurto@aol.com]

Steve try KY Jelly as a lubricant (no kidding) this is very slippery and is
ultimately absorbed into the rubber so the bush will not walk out later .

Joe


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Paroor]

Steve,
Calm down, your wife is right like always.

With the help of my friend it took more than 15 minutes for the first one
and it had some scratch on the rubber. But second one went so fast with out
any damage. used some lubricant and wise and moss tool borrowed from a TC
friend.
Madhu

-----Urspr ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com [mailto:mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com]Im Auftrag
von Steve Plath
Gesendet: Sonntag, 4. September 2005 05:05
An: mg tc group
Betreff: [mg-tabc] shock absorber bushings


What am I doing wrong. Is there some secret word that needs to be uttered
during the process (I tried a few, but my wife came out and told me to calm
down). Help, I'm getting tired of ordering new bushings. Any ideas out
there.

Steve Plath
48 TC 5731

[Steve Plath]

Jack,

Your solution worked like a charm, in fact it made installing the bushings
almost too easy. For the rest of you, Jack sent me a picture of a clamp and
pilot he made. I put one together and it really works. The problem with
the Moss tool is the pilot, it is just too big. Their pilot pushes the
bushing (even after the lubricant drying for several days) into the base,
which forces the link eye away from the base and ends up cutting out a big
chunk of the rubber. I know I trashed about 6 bushings just proving it to
myself. Jack had me make a pilot out of 1/2" alum rod which is the same
size as the studs. Then, as per Jack's picture, I made a clamp out of
plywood and bolts that holds the eye over the base. When all is clamped
together, the new pilot is pressed into the hole and when it is all the way
in the stud is lined up behind it and the pressing continues. The pilot
drops out the other side and the stud is in place and the bushing is intact.

Now all I have to do is wait for a new order of bushings to replace the ones
I trashed. Should have the car on the streets next week.

If anyone is running into the same problem let me know, I'm an expert now.

Thank you Jack.

Steve Plath
48 TC 5731

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jack Stehr"
To: "Steve Plath"
Sent: Sunday, September 04, 2005 3:04 AM
Subject: Re: [mg-tabc] shock absorber bushings


> Steve,
> The diameter of the Moss pilot that expands the hole in the bushing is too
> large. I made my own pilot out of a 1/2" bolt, the same diameter of the
> stud that you are trying to insert into the eye of the bushing. I cut the
> head and the threaded part of the bolt off so that all I had left was a
> 1/2" cylinder of steel about 2-3" long. I contoured one end into the
> shape of a bullet. I used a drill press and file to do this. If you
> could find some 1/2" diameter aluminum stock it would probably be
> easier/quicker to shape. I then used my large woodworking vise to push
> the new, smaller diameter pilot through the bushing. As soon as the rear
> of the pilot was flush with the bushing I inserted the stud behind the
> pilot and continued pushing on the stud forcing the pilot out. You'll
> have to make up a wood spacer with a slightly larger hole (5/8") to place
> on the other side of the bushing for the pilot to enter when it is pushed
> through. I actually made a simple clamp out of ply wood to hold the
> bushing in place while pushing the pilot through as I found that I tended
> to slightly push the bushing out of position when inserting the stud.
> Does this make any sense?
> -Jack
>
>

[Terry Horlick]

Ok, Steve, sounds great. I have had a go around with this job and
been unhapy with my results. Can you post that picture/drawing
please? Or perhaps you could send me a copy and I will post it on
the web for you.

Terry TC2285

--- In mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Plath" wrote:
> Jack,
>
> Your solution worked like a charm, in fact it made installing the
bushings
> almost too easy. For the rest of you, Jack sent me a picture of a
clamp and
> pilot he made. I put one together and it really works. The
problem with
> the Moss tool is the pilot, it is just too big. Their pilot
pushes the
> bushing (even after the lubricant drying for several days) into
the base,
> which forces the link eye away from the base and ends up cutting
out a big
> chunk of the rubber. I know I trashed about 6 bushings just
proving it to
> myself. Jack had me make a pilot out of 1/2" alum rod which is
the same
> size as the studs. Then, as per Jack's picture, I made a clamp
out of
> plywood and bolts that holds the eye over the base. When all is
clamped
> together, the new pilot is pressed into the hole and when it is
all the way
> in the stud is lined up behind it and the pressing continues. The
pilot
> drops out the other side and the stud is in place and the bushing
is intact.
>
> Now all I have to do is wait for a new order of bushings to
replace the ones
> I trashed. Should have the car on the streets next week.
>
> If anyone is running into the same problem let me know, I'm an
expert now.
>
> Thank you Jack.
>
> Steve Plath
> 48 TC 5731
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jack Stehr"
> To: "Steve Plath"
> Sent: Sunday, September 04, 2005 3:04 AM
> Subject: Re: [mg-tabc] shock absorber bushings
>
>
> > Steve,
> > The diameter of the Moss pilot that expands the hole in the
bushing is too
> > large. I made my own pilot out of a 1/2" bolt, the same
diameter of the
> > stud that you are trying to insert into the eye of the bushing.
I cut the
> > head and the threaded part of the bolt off so that all I had
left was a
> > 1/2" cylinder of steel about 2-3" long. I contoured one end
into the
> > shape of a bullet. I used a drill press and file to do this.
If you
> > could find some 1/2" diameter aluminum stock it would probably
be
> > easier/quicker to shape. I then used my large woodworking vise
to push
> > the new, smaller diameter pilot through the bushing. As soon as
the rear
> > of the pilot was flush with the bushing I inserted the stud
behind the
> > pilot and continued pushing on the stud forcing the pilot out.
You'll
> > have to make up a wood spacer with a slightly larger hole (5/8")
to place
> > on the other side of the bushing for the pilot to enter when it
is pushed
> > through. I actually made a simple clamp out of ply wood to hold
the
> > bushing in place while pushing the pilot through as I found that
I tended
> > to slightly push the bushing out of position when inserting the
stud.
> > Does this make any sense?
> > -Jack
> >
> >