Re: Digest Number 824

[Benson]

________________________________________________________________________ Message: 7 Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2002 12:56:15 -0400 From: "Bruce Collins" bdcollin@bellsouth.net> Subject: Enigine Age Cracks To all, Upon my return drive to the Seabring GOF I notice a trace of water flowing down the block behind the Manifold. Thinking that it was the large Freeze Plug I removed the Carb's and Manifold. Upon inspection I noticed some very faint hairline cracks running horizontally along the water Galley just below. Speaking with a welder who specializes in making this sort of repair he mentioned that this is a common occurrence in old Tractor engines and can be easily repaired. This work can also be done without taking the engine completely down. It is recommended that you remove the components from the engine and take the engine out. Upon doing so remove the paint and clean off the block. Have it Magnafluxed to make the cracks stand out.. Then the welder can do his repair, grind down the welds and polish it. Then I can repaint it and it will be as good as new. The time to do the magnaflux and welding can be done in a day or two. Next week I will have this work done and order the parts that I wish to replace (such as rubber mounts for the Headlights, Radiator mounts, etc. Things that upon dismantling the car should be addressed.) I will add that because I have good Oil Pressure (60+ PSIG) and good compression, no water/gas in Oil, etc... I concluded a rebuild was not necessary. I will also note that I drive quite regularly and the engine (Actually a left over TB XPAG engine) is original to the car. More reason to repair than replace. I mention this to the list so that you may want to just take a look at your engine and see if any of these age cracks are beginning to appear on your engine. It caught early it is an easy repair and will continue the life of your pride and joy. Happy motoring! Bruce TC #2721 XPAG #3355 Down but not out! HI all, Regarding welding of engine blocks. A very specialised skill and not to be taken lightly! I know from experience. Get the block crack tested and drill a 1/8" hole at the very ends of the crack. This should stop the crack from spreading as heat is applied. My head had cracked in the water gallery and after testing it we found the crack ran up to the core plug and down to the drain tap hole! Eventually repaired by silver brazing, not as much heat required. Good luck. Regards, Ron Benson TB

[Benson]

Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2002 19:12:17 +0100 From: "Clive Sherriff" clive.sherriff@ntlworld.com> Subject: Re: Cross tube Try to avoid unriviting. In rebuilding the TA last year I found the same on my body outriggers, but by cutting back carefully with an angle grinder I reached good thickness metal (one usually does) . I made up the new outrigger to the original pattern - cut it back to fit the original "good Metal" line and welded it in place Ive done this on a number of chassis with great success. Careful Post weld fettling means the join is invisable. Regards Clive "Fettling" That,ll fool them Clive a foundrymans term, in fact a job in itself, in the days when we had foundrys. PS. I dont think i,ll bother converting any more datsun brake drums! A lot of work even though they look the part. Regards, Ron Benson TB