Re:

[Mark McCombs]

Thats what I did on the TD- I bought a neat kit that had everything (except the 8mm bolts) at Pep Boys. I bought the 8 mm bolts there too, grade 8. It was cheap. Regards from Ohio- Mark TC8126

----- Original Message ----- [b]From:[/b] djensen@accessus.net [b]To:[/b] mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com [b]Sent:[/b] Friday, January 11, 2002 3:04 PM [b]Subject:[/b] RE: [mg-tabc]

-----Original Message----- [b]From:[/b] Dean Jensen [mailto:djensen@accessus.net] [b]Sent:[/b] Friday, January 11, 2002 1:58 PM [b]To:[/b] 'mg-tabc@yhahoogroups.com' [b]Subject:[/b] RE: [mg-tabc]

Steve

Put a Helicoil in, they do work, and not hard to do, then you can use your original bolts

Cheers Dean Illinois

-----Original Message----- [b]From:[/b] Steve Rankin [mailto:srankin@island.net] [b]Sent:[/b] Friday, January 11, 2002 12:50 PM [b]To:[/b] Mg-Tabc@Yahoogroups.Com [b]Subject:[/b] [mg-tabc]

Thanks for the responses on the manifold paint. This is all current as I have the engine out for the 3rd time for a leaky rear seal, and I'm confident enuf this time to tidy everything up before reinstalling. Incidently, I used a Moss conversion. The problems I had were do to with the seal housing not centering on the crank flange, so with the help of a mandrel I have now assured its correct position. I also substituted a very expensive Vitron seal, for the one supplied. Anyhow, there are 2 of the threaded holes in the aluminum sump that are stripped where the trany bolts up. If I can find a couple of nufeld bolts with an 11/4 long shank (7mm dia) 1/4W head, 10 threads to the cm., I would be able to catch 1/4 in of undamaged thread in the sump. Or does anyone have a alternative proven solution which does'nt include oversize non std bolts?[i] [/i]

[i]Steve Rankin TC 6646[/i]

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