SHOCK ABSORBER BUSHING

[John Patterson]

THANKS TO ALL FOR THE HELP. THE BUSHINGS WENT INTO THE EYES SLICK AS A WHISTLE WITH THE MOSS KIT. PROBLEM NOW IS I CAN'T GET THE POSTS INTO THE EYES. USED A BIG PRESS AND ONLY TORE UP THE BUSHINGS IN THE PROCESS. I HAD SPARES BUT AM STUCK. ANY SUGGESTIONS? THE HOLE IN THE BUSHING IS 3/16" IN DIA AND THE POSTS ARE 1/2". I'm THINKING OF BORING OUT THE BUSHING TO 3/8" WHICH I THINK I CAN PRESS THE POSTS THRU. WILL THIS GIVE ENOUGH PRESSURE TO THE BUSHING TO HOLD IT? JOHN PATTERSON TC 7025

[Chip Old]

On Mon, 30 Jul 2001, John Patterson wrote:

> THANKS TO ALL FOR THE HELP. THE BUSHINGS WENT INTO THE EYES SLICK AS A > WHISTLE WITH THE MOSS KIT. PROBLEM NOW IS I CAN'T GET THE POSTS INTO > THE EYES. USED A BIG PRESS AND ONLY TORE UP THE BUSHINGS IN THE > PROCESS. I HAD SPARES BUT AM STUCK. ANY SUGGESTIONS? THE HOLE IN THE > BUSHING IS 3/16" IN DIA AND THE POSTS ARE 1/2". I'm THINKING OF BORING > OUT THE BUSHING TO 3/8" WHICH I THINK I CAN PRESS THE POSTS THRU. WILL > THIS GIVE ENOUGH PRESSURE TO THE BUSHING TO HOLD IT?

Tip: Don't write e-mail in all caps. Normal upper/lower case is a LOT easier to read. Don't bore out the bushings. The fit of the bushings in the arms and of the links and posts in the bushings is supposed to be a VERY tight fit. Otherwise the assembly will dissasemble when you least expect it. I don't know what is included in the Moss kit, but the assembly tools originally used were a sort of funnel for compressing the bushings into the eyes, and a tapered guide for inserting the links and posts into the bushings. The taper is pushed through in front of the link or post, and expands the bushing to allow the link or post to enter. If it isn't included in the Moss kit, make your own from 1/2 inch hardwood dowel. -- Chip Old 1948 M.G. TC TC6710 XPAG7430 NEMGTR #2271 Cub Hill, Maryland 1962 Triumph TR4 CT3154LO CT3479E fold@bcpl.net

[DAI]

John, I have performed this only once, but found the following approach useful. 1) Wet the rubber bushes with white spirit (or equivalent) to act as a lubricant that will evaporate and leave no residue. 2) Start with the link pin end (the pin that is screwed into the axle bracket. Arrange all the parts on the bench to ensure you are inserting the pins and link arms in the correct arrangement. You don't want to remove and repeat this process if it can be avoided! 3) You are therefore trying to insert the bush on the end of the link arm (forget the damper for now). 4) Then with link arm in a vice, use small/medium plain screw driver to tuck the edges of the bush into the receiving circular end of the link arm. If one goes in circles around the edge of the bush, tuck about half (no more than) of the bush in. 5) The link pin - screw the retaining nut on about half way to provide a thrust surface (thread protection) for the next step. 6) Remove the link arm from vice, and arrange the pin to be just touching the half inserted bush, in the vice. Close vice by carefully holding the pin and bush and link arm in the correct alignment. You may wish to use thin wooden protectors against the jaws of the vice. You will note that the end of the bush that is already inserted is compressed and the bush hole is reduced, but the helf of the bush not inserted still has a larger hole to permit the pin to find its way. 7) I had to use my leg to wind the vice slowly closed, with my two hands holding the pin/link arm arrangement. Otherwise, the services of a willing helper would be best at this point. 8) If done carefully, you will find that the pin pushes into the receiving bush with the effect that the bush is also slowly pushed into the link arm. The whole arrangement is under great pressure, but will work. 9) Be careful to keep the pin, bush and link arm hole in correct alignment, and if you feel the pin is no centered, then remove and try again. The bush will be damaged if the pin is rammed in. Judge the relative position of the pin in the bush and the bush in the link arm. Both should be sliding in such that when complete the bush is centred on the link arm, and the pin is fully inserted. 9) All the above steps need to be performed whilst the white spirit is still present (not evaporated yet). It may take a few practise goes. 10) Once the link pin is inserted, then the same performance is repeated for the connection of the link arm and damper arm. 11) The damper is much heavier. Having another pair of hands is best. The procedure is the same though. 12) If one is servicing the dampers, by removing the damper arms for a full dismantle, then one may find it easier to insert the bushes and link arms before the damper actuating arm is replaced. Drilling out the bush is perhaps tempting, but in operation the damper and link arms are experiencing repeated shocks, that require the bushes the absorb. If the bushes are drilled, then the retaining pressure on the bush is reduced. The link arm is only retained by this pressure and the geometry of the angles. Drilling the bushes could cause one end of the link arm to dislocate in the worst case. I would not recommend drilling the bushes. Good luck. DAI --- John Patterson jwp-mgtc@aliens.com> wrote: > THANKS TO ALL FOR THE HELP. THE BUSHINGS WENT INTO

> THE EYES SLICK AS A > WHISTLE WITH THE MOSS KIT. PROBLEM NOW IS I CAN'T > GET THE POSTS INTO THE > EYES. USED A BIG PRESS AND ONLY TORE UP THE BUSHINGS > IN THE PROCESS. I HAD > SPARES BUT AM STUCK. ANY SUGGESTIONS? THE HOLE IN > THE BUSHING IS 3/16" IN > DIA AND THE POSTS ARE 1/2". I'm THINKING OF BORING > OUT THE BUSHING TO 3/8" > WHICH I THINK I CAN PRESS THE POSTS THRU. WILL THIS > GIVE ENOUGH PRESSURE TO > THE BUSHING TO HOLD IT? > JOHN PATTERSON TC 7025 > > > > > > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to > http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ > >

____________________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get your free @yahoo.co.uk address at http://mail.yahoo.co.uk or your free @yahoo.ie address at http://mail.yahoo.ie

[joecurto@aol.com]

For a Rubber lubricant that dries with no residue try KY Jelly (really works, no laughter please) Joe

[mrbadger]

joecurto@aol.com wrote: For a Rubber lubricant that dries with no residue try KY Jelly (really works, no laughter please) Wouldn't think of it Joe - not even a chuckle. Badger

[Gates Family]

Badger/Joe Please complete the questionnaire http://www.csclub.uwaterloo.ca/u/wwiewior/ky.html Regards Joe Gates TC 8675

----- Original Message ----- From: "mrbadger" mrbadger@home.com> To: joecurto@aol.com>; mg-tabc@yahoogroups.com> Sent: 31 July 2001 03:11 Subject: Re: [mg-tabc] SHOCK ABSORBER BUSHING > > > joecurto@aol.com wrote: > For a Rubber lubricant that dries with no residue try KY Jelly (really > works, no laughter please) > > Wouldn't think of it Joe - not even a chuckle. > Badger > > > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ > >

[Roger Furneaux]

hi Chip - TSO must have carried several articles on this, probably written/edited by you! I seem to recall that the front hub bearing spacer is just the job for your "sort of funnel". The link should go in after inserting the bush, providing the end is rounded off. Squeezy liquid makes a good lubricant (probably KY jelly as well, but most of us don't have much use for it...) ocTagonally TCRoger Chip wrote:

>Don't bore out the bushings. The fit of the bushings in the arms and of >the links and posts in the bushings is supposed to be a VERY tight fit. >Otherwise the assembly will dissasemble when you least expect it. > >I don't know what is included in the Moss kit, but the assembly tools >originally used were a sort of funnel for compressing the bushings into >the eyes, and a tapered guide for inserting the links and posts into the >bushings. The taper is pushed through in front of the link or post, and >expands the bushing to allow the link or post to enter. If it isn't >included in the Moss kit, make your own from 1/2 inch hardwood dowel.

[joecurto@aol.com]

God Bless you Badger . joe

[Victoria Vernon]

Hi Joe

I'll send my address separately. I measured the circumference of the wheel (spare) and then by moving the car one revolution forward the rolling circumference. i 7.15feet. ii 7.71 feet the latter was divided into a mile giving me 685 revolutions which by all accounts is low but that's what I get. Presumabely more turns would give accuracy but my garage is only so long.

BTW have you,when trying to measure distance by road markers (ours are in Km), noticed that the last one you really want isn't there.

Clem

[Victoria Vernon]

Hello out there,

thanks for the reply Joe, I'll send my address under separate cover. I measured the spare's circumference; 7.15feet. Moving the car forward and measuring along the floor 7.71 feet, this divided into a mile gave 685 revs which by all accounts is too little but that's what I get.

BTW have you noticed that when trying to time between road markers (ours are in KMs) the last one is missing and you have to start all over again.

When installing bushes I had the jig, copied from the TD manual, made by a friend but even then it was difficult. I made use of his press as I didn't think my drill press man enough and I don't have a big vice .

Clem

TC7218