battery question

DSN_KLR650
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david zawadzki
Posts: 105
Joined: Mon Mar 14, 2011 10:46 pm

battery question

Post by david zawadzki » Fri Oct 26, 2018 7:22 am

Thanks for that. I took off the carb 3 times already and cleaned out everything I could find with pressurized air. I did look through the needles and could see they are not clogged. I put the carb back on rode it for a few days and could not start the bike again. Checked the oil- it seemed like there was gas in it- I smelled it. I changed the oil again, took off the carb, bent the tab and the bike started right up. I ll ride it for a few days and see how it acts. I had the piston rings changed a few weeks ago. I was riding it without knowing that there was gas in the engine so that probably messed up the rings. I really don't know anymore. Whats causing the gas to get into the engine? Car overflowing is the only thing I can think of. Have a good weekend everyone! David
On Thu, Oct 25, 2018 at 7:31 PM Wingerr wrote: You shouldn't have to bend the tang, probably overflowing because the float needle has debris in it or has poor sealing from hardening. Better off making sure the float seat contact surfaces are clean instead of relying on higher pressure to get it to cut the flow off. On Mon, Sep 10, 2018 at 9:29 AM david zawadzki fordavidz@... [DSN_KLR650] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> wrote: [u][/u] UPDATE: It was the carb! Cleaned everything out with compressed air and the bike started right up. Drover around for 2 days, parked the bike and the carb was overflowing onto the street. I remember checking the float bowl cutoff needle and it looked good.I guess I have to bend the tab a bit and hopefully it will not over flow. Is there any way to check the correct setting by removing the float bowl or do I need to take the whole card off again? Any tricks from the professionals? Thank you so much from saving me money by not taking it to the shop! David On Sat, Aug 25, 2018 at 11:16 AM, david zawadzki wrote: Yea I did take it out along with the main jet and everything else. There was little dirt in the carb. I have a Acrebis tank on the DR350 so the petcock is really low and I thought installing an inline fuel filter might slow the fuel even more but I am doing it now :) On Sat, Aug 25, 2018 at 10:45 AM, Fred Hink wrote: Did you remove the pilot jet from the carburetor to clean this jet? If you did, I d check the orifice by holding it up to a light and seeing if it is blocked. Then I d use your compressed air to blow out the obstruction and check to see if you can see light through the jet again. The pilot jet orifice is VERY small. Good that it fired up so this tells you that you don t have an electrical or any other issues other than not getting fuel where you need it. Fred http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com [b]From:[/b] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com">david zawadzki fordavidz@... [DSN_KLR650] [b]Sent:[/b] Saturday, August 25, 2018 8:39 AM [b]To:[/b] Fred Hink [b]Cc:[/b] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com">KLR Group [b]Subject:[/b] Re: [DSN_KLR650] Battery Question Hey Fred, You saved me! I sprayed a little of carb cleaner inside as I didn't have starter fluid. The bike fired up for a second so I took off the carb and cleaned it with an air compressor. I will put it back on this weekend and get back to you guys. Thank you again. -David On Fri, Aug 24, 2018 at 9:52 AM, Fred Hink moabmc@...> wrote: A carb cleaner used sparingly is never a bad idea. You could try some Sea Foam in your gas tank and as long as this mix got to your carburetor, it may unblock your pilot jet. Be careful with carb cleaners as this may damage rubber or plastic on your carburetor. Most likely you ll need to remove the carburetor from your bike, then remove the float bowl. The pilot jet is the smaller jet next to your larger main jet. Used compressed air to remove any blockage. If you need to use anything more aggressive to clean this jet you need to be careful since it is only made of brass and very soft. If you use starting fluid for this test, also use it very sparingly (just a short spritz ). Fred http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com [b]From:[/b] david zawadzki [b]Sent:[/b] Friday, August 24, 2018 7:45 AM [b]To:[/b] Fred Hink [b]Cc:[/b] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com">KLR Group [b]Subject:[/b] Re: [DSN_KLR650] Battery Question Hey Fred- That's a great idea! I know I have a carb cleaner but I'm guessing that's a bad idea right? I'll pick up some starter fluid. Thanks for this! David On Fri, Aug 24, 2018 at 9:27 AM, Fred Hink moabmc@...> wrote: If you have a spark at the spark plug and fuel to the carburetor, it most likely is your pilot jet is plugged. To test this theory you can take some starting fluid to your air filter and give it a crank. If it tries to start this points to your pilot jet. If it still doesn t want to start it may be flooded with fuel. To start a flooded engine, you need to crank it with the choke off and the throttle wide open. Once it tries to start be ready to reduce the throttle to idle. Be careful jump starting from a car battery. Your electronic ignition is very sensitive to over voltage and you could fry your CDI box. Most starting problems are a plugged pilot jet as this is the smallest jet in your carburetor. Fred http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com [b]From:[/b] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com">david zawadzki fordavidz@... [DSN_KLR650] [b]Sent:[/b] Friday, August 24, 2018 6:56 AM [b]To:[/b] Fred Hink ; DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com">KLR Group [b]Subject:[/b] Re: [DSN_KLR650] Battery Question This is exactly what my bike does https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D-G6_RE5uYs I tried to run it from a car battery as well....nada On Fri, Aug 24, 2018 at 8:15 AM, david zawadzki fordavidz@...> wrote: UPDATE: NON KLR - 1997 Suzuki DR 350 Hello folks and thanks for all the replys. I wanted to test the starter and the solenoid so i placed a screwdriver over the two connections ( going from battery to solenoid/ big terminals)) on the solenoid and it cranked. I disconnected the (small)yellow wire form the solenoid and ran a separate wire from the + battery terminal to the connection on the solenoid where the wire was. Bike cranked. I disconnected the spark plug and touched it to the cylinder- spark is there. I cleaned all electrical connections with a cleaner. Bike cranks but doesn't want to start.. Kickstand/clutch kill switch disengaged. I am getting my yusa ytx7-l bs battery replaced as it is not holding charge. After I added the acid to the battery I connected it to a charger within 10 minutes. Bad idea? I do charge it up to 13.4v every time before i try to start the bike. Checked petcock and fuel is flowing. Unscrewed the bottom screw from the carb- fuel comes out so its getting fuel. Sidenote- the piston ring was replaced by a mechanic. Could something be off there? Fuse is ok Any ideas? Carb needle clogged? What would you do next? I am a rookie mechanic and I know if I take it into a dealership it will be a $600 price tag.. Maybe it's my only choice.. Sorry for so many emails and thanks. On Thu, Jun 21, 2018 at 4:48 PM, Fred Hink moabmc@...> wrote: Yes, I have in stock the YTX7L-BS and it comes with the acid pack. It sells for $69.95 [u][/u][u][/u]

I don t sell the Enduro Engineering hand guards but I do sell the full coverage and XC Add-on covers from Maier in several colors. They are designed to fit the Maier Woods Pro handguards and are about $45 a set.

[u][/u][u][/u]

Fred www.arrowheadmotorsports.com

[u][/u][u][/u]

[b]From: [/b]david zawadzki [b]Sent: [/b]Thursday, June 21, 2018 2:17 PM

[b]To: [/b]Fred Hink [b]Subject: [/b]Re: [DSN_KLR650] Battery Question [u][/u][u][/u]

I'll bring in the battery to a shop and have them test it. No other way I guess...

[u][/u][u][/u]

Do you sell the yausa ytx7l-bs with the acid? Can you please tell me the cost?

Do you also sell these https://www.ebay.com/itm/Replacement-Black-EVO2-Outer-Mount-Deflectors-Handguards-Enduro-Engineering/282912146991?epid=19017593381&hash=item41dee0c62f:g:ucQAAOSwL6la2f8n?

[u][/u][u][/u]

Thanks,

David

[u][/u][u][/u]

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On Thu, Jun 21, 2018 at 3:15 PM, Fred Hink moabmc@...> wrote:

Was your new battery vacuum sealed? Once this seal is broken this starts it s shelf-life. As long as it is sealed on the shelf it should be good a long time. Once the seal is broken and acid is added a good battery can last around 3 to 7 years. A cheaper brand will usually last 1 to 3 years once they are in service. For $20 you can have your very own load tester which will tell you a lot about the condition of your battery. https://www.ebay.com/bhp/battery-load-tester

Fred www.arrowheadmotorsports.com

[b]From: [/b]david zawadzki [b]Sent: [/b]Thursday, June 21, 2018 11:41 AM

[b]To: [/b]Fred Hink [b]Subject: [/b]Re: [DSN_KLR650] Battery Question

Yea I charged the battery and an hour later checked the voltage. 13.09V Probably an old battery?

On Wed, Jun 20, 2018 at 8:31 PM, Fred Hink moabmc@...> wrote:

When you put a load on a good battery, the voltage will drop but should rebound to it s previous state very quickly. If it doesn t rebound or is very slow, then you either have a battery problem or it wasn t charged completely.

DR350 or KLR650, a load is still a load.

Fred www.arrowheadmotorsports.com

[b]From: [/b]david zawadzki [b]Sent: [/b]Wednesday, June 20, 2018 5:54 PM [b]To: [/b]Fred Hink

[b]Subject: [/b]Re: [DSN_KLR650] Battery Question

Hey Fred,

Thanks for that. I'll fully charge the battery and check again. If i crank the bike a few times and then wait a few minutes should the battery still hold 13.2-13.6V ?

It's weird that it dropped to 12.6V after one day..

I WANTED TO CONFESS AND SAY THAT THIS IS FOR A SUZUKI DR350 NOT OUR LOVELY KLR but that shouldn't make a difference right? It's still a 12V battery

Best,

David

On Wed, Jun 20, 2018 at 4:59 PM, Fred Hink moabmc@...> wrote:

Are you sure your battery charger is working correctly? A fully charged battery should read around 13.2V to 13.6V. Usually when you have a bad battery it is only one or maybe two cells that are bad. Each cell contributed about 2.2V to the total of the battery. So if you have one bad cell you would have a reading of about 10 or 11 volts. If you had two bad cells then you could have a reading of about 8 or 9 volts. If your battery was a few years old and the readings are this low then I d suspect that there is either a resistance in one or more cells or your battery has just reached the end of it s life.

A good battery shop will be able to do a load test on your battery. Just be sure it is fully charged first with at least 13.2V.

Fred www.arrowheadmotorsports.com

[b]From: [/b]david zawadzki [b]Sent: [/b]Wednesday, June 20, 2018 2:31 PM [b]To: [/b]DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com; Fred Hink [b]Cc: [/b]David Bowden

[b]Subject: [/b]Re: [DSN_KLR650] Battery Question

Thanks for the replies. The back story is that I had to have the piston ring replaced and a mechanic did that for me. He also said that he put in a new battery cause the old one was bad... hmmm I have never seen the receipt so who knows if it s new. It s a duralast good brand.

Anyways I checked the battery with the bike off and it read 12.6v. I started cranking and the voltage was jumping between 6-8v. After a few tries I checked the battery without cranking and it dropped to 12.1v. I m guesssing it s not holding charge. It s been only a few days since a full charge and I didn t ride it.

Time for a new yusa battery or you guys have any other ideas?

Best,

David

On Tue, Jun 19, 2018 at 9:34 AM 'Fred Hink' moabmc@... [DSN_KLR650] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Absorbed Glass Matt (AGM) batteries are also acid-filled . They are sealed once the acid is installed but are not usually serviceable once they are sealed at the dealer or from the factory. The performance Yuasa AGM batteries are prefilled at the factory where the standard AGM come shipped vacuum packed dry and filled at the dealership before selling. They should be charged before use, some dealers do this and others probably not. Standard lead-acid batteries also come sealed (vacuum packed) and require filling with acid at the dealer. Some standard AGM battiers will include the acid pack where all Yuasa standard AGM batteries do.

I believe the way an AGM battery works is that they are called sealed batteries but they are not completely sealed. They use a venting system similar to the venting in your gas cap. There is a seal that is held closed under spring pressure and will open or vent if pressure is too great or small. Otherwise you would be making a pretty good BOMB. The vent in the AGM battery has the same function as your gas tank. This minimizes loss of the contents of your battery as they are not open to atmosphere like a standard lead-acid battery.

I have seen acid-filled batteries loose the water out of the solution where just the bottom of the plates are covered and the battery was still operating normally. This is very hard on the battery of this type and you should always check your battery to make sure the electrolyte is covering the top of the plates. The KLR especially uses a higher than normal charging voltage and tends to lose the water out of the electrolyte faster than most vehicles. What has been common perception is that Kawasaki used a cheaper charging system with smaller gauge charging wires. To be able to operate the battery at the required full charged levels the voltage was boosted to be able to use these smaller wires. This higher than normal voltage tends to boil or remove water from the electrolyte (gassing). I don t hear much about this any more.

Fred http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com

[b]From:[/b] David Bowden clickrebel@... [DSN_KLR650]

[b]Sent:[/b] Tuesday, June 19, 2018 6:59 AM

[b]To:[/b] KLRistas ; david zawadzki

[b]Subject:[/b] Re: [DSN_KLR650] Battery Question

AGM or acid filled? If acid filled, you did recheck the acid levels after filling it and charging it?

On Tue, Jun 19, 2018, 5:53 AM david zawadzki fordavidz@... [DSN_KLR650] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Hello friends,

I put in a new battery and wondering if I got a lemon....yummmm

When the bike is running it reads 13.6v - when I disconnect the negative from the battery it slowly drops to 13.2. I charged the battery started the bike up fine and in 2 days tried to start it again and the battery died after a few cranks.

Any ideas?

Thanks!!!!

--

David Z

mobile: 646-267-1109

poisonpartyband.com

--

David Z

mobile: 646-267-1109

poisonpartyband.com

--

David Z

mobile: 646-267-1109

poisonpartyband.com

--

David Z

mobile: 646-267-1109

poisonpartyband.com

[u][/u][u][/u]

--

David Z

mobile: 646-267-1109

poisonpartyband.com

[u][/u][u][/u]

-- David Z mobile: 646-267-1109 poisonpartyband.com -- David Z mobile: 646-267-1109 poisonpartyband.com -- David Z mobile: 646-267-1109 poisonpartyband.com -- David Z mobile: 646-267-1109 poisonpartyband.com -- David Z mobile: 646-267-1109 poisonpartyband.com -- David Z mobile: 646-267-1109 poisonpartyband.com -- David Z mobile: 646-267-1109 poisonpartyband.com

slash5er
Posts: 7
Joined: Sun Aug 03, 2014 10:53 am

strange throttle response

Post by slash5er » Fri Nov 02, 2018 11:39 pm

I did Eagle Mike's big bore kit and had the head cleaned up and new valves. On starting the bike, it seems to run quite well but does not seem to speed up or slow down when I turn the air screw in our out. If I blip the throttle, the linkage goes back where it's supposed to but the RPMs stay high and then decrease very slowly. I'm sure when I took the carb off and on, I screwed something up. I know I turned the air screw, so started it up at 1 1/2 turns from fully seated  position. The carb worked fine before I started all of this. Any ideas?  Thanks.

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