fs: new standard-bore replacement cylinder, standard piston and ring

[jeffsaline]

On Tue, 8 Nov 2016 09:13:19 -0500 david zawadzki writes: Now I have to figure out why the speedometer and the rmp gauge does not move. I replaced the washer in the wheel by the bearings. Checked the cable by the speedometer and made sure its plugged in. Ehhh...one day I ll get there... <><><><><><> <><><><><><>   David,   The speedometer and tach use different signals for operation.  The speedometer/odometer uses a cable drive and the tach uses an electrical signal from the ignition system.   If you disconnect the speedo cable from the back of the instrument you can spin the front tire and watch the inner cable to see if it turns.  If it turns it suggests there might be an issue with the speedo head.  If it doesn't turn it suggests an issue with the cable or drive hub.  You can disconnect the cable at the drive hub and spin the front wheel.  Watch the inside of the cable drive on the hub to see if it turns.  If it turns try holding both ends of the inner speedo cable and turning.  The ends should be connected.  If the inside of the drive hub where the cable connects doesn't turn it suggests an issue with the front hub/drive unit.   I have also seen an inner cable that was too long and caused speedo issues.  The fix was to first loosen the cable at the instrument and see if that allowed the speedo to operate correctly.  When it did I cut about 1/8" off the end of the inner cable using a dremel cut off wheel and reassembled.  The speedo worked fine.  I don't know but will guess that when the inner cable becomes too long it is inviting you to replace the speedo cable as it is probably coming apart.   For the tach on a Gen I you have three wires at the back of the instrument.  Black is the wire to the coil.  Brown is 12volt  positive.  Black/yellow is ground.  If you connect a jumper wire to the black wire, turn the key to on and then flick the jumper wire against the brown wire the tach needle should flicker.  If it flickers it suggests a problem with the chassis wiring.  If it doesn't flicker it suggests a problem with the tach. Best, Jeff Saline The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650 . . . . . . . . . .   ____________________________________________________________ [b]Warning: Don't Diet Before You See This[/b] gundrymd.com http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3142/58220718a9f77171808st04vuc [img]https://ec.yimg.com/ec?url=https%3A%2F% ... OxQ1YQ--~E[/img]

[david zawadzki]

Hello friends, I put in a new battery and wondering if I got a lemon....yummmm When the bike is running it reads 13.6v - when I disconnect the negative from the battery it slowly drops to 13.2. I charged the battery started the bike up fine and in 2 days tried to start it again and the battery died after a few cranks. Any ideas? Thanks!!!! -- David Z mobile: 646-267-1109 poisonpartyband.com

[David Bowden]

AGM or acid filled? If acid filled, you did recheck the acid levels after filling it and charging it?

On Tue, Jun 19, 2018, 5:53 AM david zawadzki fordavidz@... [DSN_KLR650] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> wrote: [u][/u]

Hello friends, I put in a new battery and wondering if I got a lemon....yummmm When the bike is running it reads 13.6v - when I disconnect the negative from the battery it slowly drops to 13.2. I charged the battery started the bike up fine and in 2 days tried to start it again and the battery died after a few cranks. Any ideas? Thanks!!!! -- David Z mobile: 646-267-1109 poisonpartyband.com

[Fred Hink]

I see about a 10%-20% failure rate on new cheap batteries right out of the box (Yuasa 0%).  Your battery voltage sounds pretty normal.  What brand of battery and model do you have?  I have never seen a Yuasa brand battery fail like this but I have seen plenty of no-name or cheaper brands fail.  If you are sure all your starting connections are clean and tight, this pretty much points to your battery.  You have a resistance in the starting circuit.  Cheap batteries can have a cold joint inside the battery where they will pass voltage but when you put a heavy load (starting) they will open up and not pass the amperage needed.  You should have some sort of warranty but I d first put a load test on the battery and if it fails, get your money back or move on to a Yuasa.  I believe Yuasa offers a one year warranty where other cheaper brands will use a six month warranty.  Yuasa costs more but you get what you pay for.   Good luck,   Fred http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com   [b]From:[/b] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com">david zawadzki fordavidz@... [DSN_KLR650] [b]Sent:[/b] Tuesday, June 19, 2018 6:53 AM [b]To:[/b] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com">KLR Group [b]Subject:[/b] [DSN_KLR650] Battery Question    

Hello friends,   I put in a new battery and wondering if I got a lemon....yummmm   When the bike is running it reads 13.6v - when I disconnect the negative from the battery it slowly drops to 13.2. I charged the battery started the bike up fine and in 2 days tried to start it again and the battery died after a few cranks.   Any ideas?   Thanks!!!!  -- David Z mobile: 646-267-1109 poisonpartyband.com

[Fred Hink]

Absorbed Glass Matt (AGM) batteries are also acid-filled .  They are sealed once the acid is installed but are not usually serviceable once they are sealed at the dealer or from the factory.  The performance Yuasa AGM batteries are prefilled at the factory where the standard AGM come shipped vacuum packed dry and filled at the dealership before selling.  They should be charged before use, some dealers do this and others probably not.  Standard lead-acid batteries also come sealed (vacuum packed) and require filling with acid at the dealer.  Some standard AGM battiers will include the acid pack where all Yuasa standard AGM batteries do.   I believe the way an AGM battery works is that they are called sealed batteries but they are not completely sealed.  They use a venting system similar to the venting in your gas cap.  There is a seal that is held closed under spring pressure and will open or vent if pressure is too great or small.  Otherwise you would be making a pretty good BOMB.  The vent in the AGM battery has the same function as your gas tank.  This minimizes loss of the contents of your battery as they are not open to atmosphere like a standard lead-acid battery.   I have seen acid-filled batteries loose the water out of the solution where just the bottom of the plates are covered and the battery was still operating normally.  This is very hard on the battery of this type and you should always check your battery to make sure the electrolyte is covering the top of the plates.  The KLR especially uses a higher than normal charging voltage and tends to lose the water out of the electrolyte faster than most vehicles.  What has been common perception is that Kawasaki used a cheaper charging system with smaller gauge charging wires.  To be able to operate the battery at the required full charged levels the voltage was boosted to be able to use these smaller wires.  This higher than normal voltage tends to boil or remove water from the electrolyte (gassing).  I don t hear much about this any more.   Fred http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com   [b]From:[/b] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com">David Bowden clickrebel@... [DSN_KLR650] [b]Sent:[/b] Tuesday, June 19, 2018 6:59 AM [b]To:[/b] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com">KLRistas ; david zawadzki [b]Subject:[/b] Re: [DSN_KLR650] Battery Question    

AGM or acid filled?  If acid filled, you did recheck the acid levels after filling it and charging it?    On Tue, Jun 19, 2018, 5:53 AM david zawadzki fordavidz@... [DSN_KLR650] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

[u][/u]  

Hello friends,   I put in a new battery and wondering if I got a lemon....yummmm   When the bike is running it reads 13.6v - when I disconnect the negative from the battery it slowly drops to 13.2. I charged the battery started the bike up fine and in 2 days tried to start it again and the battery died after a few cranks.   Any ideas?   Thanks!!!!  -- David Z mobile: 646-267-1109 poisonpartyband.com

[landsail]

3 yrs ago I replaced my battery in my 2007 KLR with a gel battery and higher output stator and added a MOSFET voltage/rectifier that provides a higher and faster charging rate when riding. 13.8 to 14.1 VDC depending on running my Rigid aux lights, 100 watt headlight with higher amperage wiring harness with relay and heated vest. No problems with a battery tender connected in storage.

[david zawadzki]

Thanks for the replies. The back story is that I had to have the piston ring replaced and a mechanic did that for me. He also said that he put in a new battery cause the old one was bad... hmmm I have never seen the receipt so who knows if it s new. It s a duralast good brand. Anyways I checked the battery with the bike off and it read 12.6v. I started cranking and the voltage was jumping between 6-8v. After a few tries I checked the battery without cranking and it dropped to 12.1v. I m guesssing it s not holding charge. It s been only a few days since a full charge and I didn t ride it. Time for a new yusa battery or you guys have any other ideas? Best,David

On Tue, Jun 19, 2018 at 9:34 AM 'Fred Hink' moabmc@... [DSN_KLR650] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> wrote: [u][/u] Absorbed Glass Matt (AGM) batteries are also acid-filled . They are sealed once the acid is installed but are not usually serviceable once they are sealed at the dealer or from the factory. The performance Yuasa AGM batteries are prefilled at the factory where the standard AGM come shipped vacuum packed dry and filled at the dealership before selling. They should be charged before use, some dealers do this and others probably not. Standard lead-acid batteries also come sealed (vacuum packed) and require filling with acid at the dealer. Some standard AGM battiers will include the acid pack where all Yuasa standard AGM batteries do. I believe the way an AGM battery works is that they are called sealed batteries but they are not completely sealed. They use a venting system similar to the venting in your gas cap. There is a seal that is held closed under spring pressure and will open or vent if pressure is too great or small. Otherwise you would be making a pretty good BOMB. The vent in the AGM battery has the same function as your gas tank. This minimizes loss of the contents of your battery as they are not open to atmosphere like a standard lead-acid battery. I have seen acid-filled batteries loose the water out of the solution where just the bottom of the plates are covered and the battery was still operating normally. This is very hard on the battery of this type and you should always check your battery to make sure the electrolyte is covering the top of the plates. The KLR especially uses a higher than normal charging voltage and tends to lose the water out of the electrolyte faster than most vehicles. What has been common perception is that Kawasaki used a cheaper charging system with smaller gauge charging wires. To be able to operate the battery at the required full charged levels the voltage was boosted to be able to use these smaller wires. This higher than normal voltage tends to boil or remove water from the electrolyte (gassing). I don t hear much about this any more. Fred http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com [b]From:[/b] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com">David Bowden clickrebel@... [DSN_KLR650] [b]Sent:[/b] Tuesday, June 19, 2018 6:59 AM [b]To:[/b] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com">KLRistas ; david zawadzki [b]Subject:[/b] Re: [DSN_KLR650] Battery Question AGM or acid filled? If acid filled, you did recheck the acid levels after filling it and charging it? On Tue, Jun 19, 2018, 5:53 AM david zawadzki fordavidz@... [DSN_KLR650] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> wrote: [u][/u] Hello friends, I put in a new battery and wondering if I got a lemon....yummmm When the bike is running it reads 13.6v - when I disconnect the negative from the battery it slowly drops to 13.2. I charged the battery started the bike up fine and in 2 days tried to start it again and the battery died after a few cranks. Any ideas? Thanks!!!! -- David Z mobile: 646-267-1109 poisonpartyband.com

-- David Z mobile: 646-267-1109 poisonpartyband.com

[david zawadzki]

Ps- Fred do you carry yusa?

On Wed, Jun 20, 2018 at 4:31 PM david zawadzki wrote: Thanks for the replies. The back story is that I had to have the piston ring replaced and a mechanic did that for me. He also said that he put in a new battery cause the old one was bad... hmmm I have never seen the receipt so who knows if it s new. It s a duralast good brand. Anyways I checked the battery with the bike off and it read 12.6v. I started cranking and the voltage was jumping between 6-8v. After a few tries I checked the battery without cranking and it dropped to 12.1v. I m guesssing it s not holding charge. It s been only a few days since a full charge and I didn t ride it. Time for a new yusa battery or you guys have any other ideas? Best,David On Tue, Jun 19, 2018 at 9:34 AM 'Fred Hink' moabmc@... [DSN_KLR650] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> wrote: [u][/u] Absorbed Glass Matt (AGM) batteries are also acid-filled . They are sealed once the acid is installed but are not usually serviceable once they are sealed at the dealer or from the factory. The performance Yuasa AGM batteries are prefilled at the factory where the standard AGM come shipped vacuum packed dry and filled at the dealership before selling. They should be charged before use, some dealers do this and others probably not. Standard lead-acid batteries also come sealed (vacuum packed) and require filling with acid at the dealer. Some standard AGM battiers will include the acid pack where all Yuasa standard AGM batteries do. I believe the way an AGM battery works is that they are called sealed batteries but they are not completely sealed. They use a venting system similar to the venting in your gas cap. There is a seal that is held closed under spring pressure and will open or vent if pressure is too great or small. Otherwise you would be making a pretty good BOMB. The vent in the AGM battery has the same function as your gas tank. This minimizes loss of the contents of your battery as they are not open to atmosphere like a standard lead-acid battery. I have seen acid-filled batteries loose the water out of the solution where just the bottom of the plates are covered and the battery was still operating normally. This is very hard on the battery of this type and you should always check your battery to make sure the electrolyte is covering the top of the plates. The KLR especially uses a higher than normal charging voltage and tends to lose the water out of the electrolyte faster than most vehicles. What has been common perception is that Kawasaki used a cheaper charging system with smaller gauge charging wires. To be able to operate the battery at the required full charged levels the voltage was boosted to be able to use these smaller wires. This higher than normal voltage tends to boil or remove water from the electrolyte (gassing). I don t hear much about this any more. Fred http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com [b]From:[/b] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com">David Bowden clickrebel@... [DSN_KLR650] [b]Sent:[/b] Tuesday, June 19, 2018 6:59 AM [b]To:[/b] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com">KLRistas ; david zawadzki [b]Subject:[/b] Re: [DSN_KLR650] Battery Question AGM or acid filled? If acid filled, you did recheck the acid levels after filling it and charging it? On Tue, Jun 19, 2018, 5:53 AM david zawadzki fordavidz@... [DSN_KLR650] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> wrote: [u][/u] Hello friends, I put in a new battery and wondering if I got a lemon....yummmm When the bike is running it reads 13.6v - when I disconnect the negative from the battery it slowly drops to 13.2. I charged the battery started the bike up fine and in 2 days tried to start it again and the battery died after a few cranks. Any ideas? Thanks!!!! -- David Z mobile: 646-267-1109 poisonpartyband.com

-- David Z mobile: 646-267-1109 poisonpartyband.com -- David Z mobile: 646-267-1109 poisonpartyband.com

[J M S]

Hi David, Just a side note on the 100 watt headlamp.  You will need lots of air flow to cool that lamp and plug.  I had one in my Gen 1 '07 and it was fine for city riding about a month.  Then after some slow off road riding on the CDT, I melted the lamp plug.  The Rev Earl and I replaced it with one form a Honda at a Napa in some remote part of Montana?  Anyway, do check to see if there is any heat damage to the plug often. You might consider removing the backer plate to your fairing/headlight (Gen 1) to allow air flow cooling.  Not sure how Gen 2 is configured.   Has anyone else melted a headlamp plug with a high watt bulb?  Or is my '07 bike just weird? KLRBugeater  Sent using Zoho Mail

[Fred Hink]

Not weird, except usually you only need your high beam when moving at speed.  Do you have a 100W low or high beam?  I stock a NAPA part that is a high temp connector just for those reasons.  There are all combinations of bulb wattages.  If you had a 55/100, the 55W low beam is the same as stock and won t make any more heat, where the 100W high beam will make more heat than the stock bulb but if you are moving shouldn t be a problem.  If you are concerned about heat, go with the high temp connector.   Fred http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com   [b]From:[/b] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com">J M S jmsemail@... [DSN_KLR650] [b]Sent:[/b] Tuesday, June 26, 2018 3:28 PM [b]To:[/b] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com">DSN_KLR650 [b]Subject:[/b] [DSN_KLR650] Re: Battery Question     Hi David, Just a side note on the 100 watt headlamp.  You will need lots of air flow to cool that lamp and plug.  I had one in my Gen 1 '07 and it was fine for city riding about a month.  Then after some slow off road riding on the CDT, I melted the lamp plug.  The Rev Earl and I replaced it with one form a Honda at a Napa in some remote part of Montana?  Anyway, do check to see if there is any heat damage to the plug often. You might consider removing the backer plate to your fairing/headlight (Gen 1) to allow air flow cooling.  Not sure how Gen 2 is configured.    Has anyone else melted a headlamp plug with a high watt bulb?  Or is my '07 bike just weird?   KLRBugeater  

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