hard to start - non klr

[Harry Seifert]

With empathy for my brother Eastern KLRista's...... Hi guys......... Here in sunny????? SoCal, at least 3000 ASL, we're dealing with white out conditions, and no, it's not all the snow bunnies in their bathing suits. Started snowing at 2:30 this morning and it's continuing to snow and should keep snowing for at least another 18 or so hours......................10" of snow and I've lost two big branches off of one of my live oak trees.............good news, about 1/4 cord of fire wood next winter; bad news, a bunch of my 50 year old lilacs are underneath the snow and branches................Hopefully they're only bent over and not broken. And now the flatlanders coming up to see the snow..................crap! yours, from the snow ridden mountains of San Diego County. Buddy bseifert71@...

[Mark H]

OK. I have to convert the same lights (for my Yamaha FZ1) and using www.luminabulbs.com MR-16 3 x 2 Watt bulbs that have a 15 deg beam pattern rather than the 35 deg beam pattern that I used with the same bulbs on my KLR650. I'll take digital photos of each step. It't not too hard and on the KLR650 using that mounting template from klrworld.com it's pretty easy. The only snag I found was that since my KLR650 has an Aerbis aftermarket motard front fender, I had to cut the mounting plate for the lights down a little to fit between that fender and the bottom of the front forks. I will also take a photo of the beam pattern on the KLR650 with the 35 deg beam aux lights and on the Yamaha using the 15 Deg beam aux lights (that bike uses the chrome "l" brackets on the front fender mounting bolts. Mark in snowy No. Nevada.

[Mark H]

Please email us the link to those ready made LED bulbs. The ones I get are $30 each from Canada and the only ones that have 6 Watts and high lumen output (3 separate big high voltage leds in the housing). If you mount an 80/100 watt bulb in a stock KLR headlight housing, be sure to use a relay headlight wiring loom kit. It uses a large fused wire to the battery and thus no strain on the stock headlight wiring and 3 pin socket. It provides higher voltage to the headlight and thus more lumens which is the name of the game. Not all LEDs are the same light ability. A good example of that in flashlights is the Coast LED Lenser series of really bright flashlights that use a transformer and 15 hr life. Mark in Snowy No. Nevada.

[Mark H]

These lamps with 20 small LEDs do not produce the lumens of the large 2 watt LEds. Instead, these multi LED lamps work well in flashlights, but not auxiliary motorcycle lights. Just check the published lumen output of any of theae bulbs. No one I have found can exceed the www.lumniabulbs.com lamps. $34 each plus housing from Ontario, Canada. Mark

[Mark Harfenist]

'fraid I can't offer a specific measurement, since I'm on the road and far from measuring tools. But I can attest that the crucial factor in deciding what height to mount the boxes is allowing enough room to swing the lids open without interference from topbox, rack, or whatever else is carried behind the seat. On one bike I failed to allow clearance to my Pelican topcase; this means disassembling the hinges on the Happy Trails boxes so that the lids remove completely. This is a minor, but significant and permanent, pain in the butt: you put a lid on your seat, it falls over in the wind making loud clanging noises; you put one on the ground leaned against the bike, which promptly settles on it, bending the lid; etc. On my next installation I left proper clearance: no more misplaced lids, and when opened outwards the hinged lids serve as little tables. Way more elegant. No matter what the height, the boxes will be too low for certain maneuvers (squeezing between rocks by the sides of a narrow trail), yet too high for comfort and stability. That's life. Hope that helps. Mark (re-entering the States from peaceful, law-abiding Mexico, and headed homewards)

[Mark Harfenist]

I had intermittent issues with the carb vent, even after installing a "T." Turned out I sometimes was squashing one leg of the vent when reinstalling the seat; the other (original) leg was half-clogged with road filth in addition to being half-squashed by flapping in the breeze, rubbing against the rear shock, etc. Not sure what your specific problem is, but I am quite sure that merely doing the mod doesn't insure proper operation. In my case, I also had to apply a minor bit of critical thinking, observation, and care. Hope that helps. Mark

[Mark Harfenist]

"While I agree that the AGM battery is probably better, what is the cost/benefit difference?" The cost-benefit ratio becomes overwhelming the first time you neglect to top up the stock battery for a month or two and as a result get stranded....or merely need to push-start your bike on a hot day wearing full gear....or use up its limited reserve trying to start the bike during a carb vent or safety switch malfunction. Or whatever. Maybe this sort of thing doesn't happen to people who are reliably more methodical about maintenance than I, but it happened to me. Just once, though, before I bought an AGM battery and relieved myself of a whole world of unpleasant possibilities, then set out on what turned out to be a 38,000 mile journey. I've got a stock battery available if you're ever in my neighborhood. It's as reliable as ever, and I still periodically top up the charge and the water. Hasn't moved on Craigslist. Mark

[Michael Bitar]

Does anyone know if a 2008 KLR 650 rear shock will fit on a 2005 KLR 650? Sincerely, Michael Bitar [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[eddie mauri]

Don't listen to me, I am no mechanic, but, I would first try some fresh gas, AND Seafoam. But, like I said, I am no mechanic. Eddie (03 KLR "la poderosa") [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Shane Bland]

Does this bike die like the key was turned off, or sputter to the end? Vini,Vidi,Refici! [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]