tank bags and panniers

[Martin Earl]

Hi Bryan, List, I really like the Wolfman (WM) gear for it versatility and durability. I would immediately buy both products again if I destroyed them. I have two KLR's, both with Rainier Tank bags and his pannier bags.Some folks don't like the larger size of the Rainier as it binds them up when they are standing on the pegs. Which is true. shrug.Some improvement in the standing position can be obtained by moving the bag forward...= there is no perfect solution with a sloping tank and a tank bag.I have the WM Explorer Lite bag left over form my KLX250...(I found it to be) almost to small to be useful. and, it binds you up in the standing positon. YMMV. IRT to the panniers; Eric Wolman illustrates the KLR installation with one crossover strap in front of the gas cap and one aft of the gas cap, and yes, your knees will probably strike the panniers.Much to my disappointment, my knees struck the pannier forcing me to ride with my knees bowed out. After the initial installation, and a 3500 mile test ride that indicated the illustrated illustration really sucks, I moved both of the crossover straps forward of the gas cap and as high as possible on the gas tank... and no longer hit the panniers with my knees.I will add, I have bar risers which allow you to move the tank panniers higher and still give clearance on the handlebars. One KLR tank pannier installation also has the Happy Trails P-D Nerf Bars. I mounted the panniers on the radiator protection part of the Nerf Bars and so they are really, way out of the way. Be aware, when installing panniers, when your bike takes a dirt nap, you decrease the ground clearance on the tank and radiator by ~6inches. So, whatever is in the tank panniers is that much closer to breaking plastic or smooshing radiator, or the radiator overflow bottle when you KLR takes a nap. hint. hint. IMO additional armor is needed to protect the radiator and plastic bits, etc. especially with panniers installed, especially on a GenII bike. YMMV. IRT to the Rainier tank bags, Wolfman has some very well thought out, useful, accessories for this model: a larger map case, a two inch top bag for the Rainier, and oversized side pouches/packets which I found to be more useful than the std. side pouches.I still used the smaller pouches (then placed in a tail bag or inside the tank bag) to hold the smaller wrenches, safety wire, pliers, etc. I would suggest: Buy extra buckle bits when you buy the bags; you eventually will need them (usually a dirt nap is involved) and will be glad you have them.Last fall, I broke a male portion of a Fastenx bag- buckle that I bought in 2004. Not bad for a tank bag that has been installed 14 years, and some 60K miles. Proper-sized zip-ties/cable-ties will also work as a field-expedient buckle repair, etc. In my tank bag, I had zip ties, and made an immediate repair, = m1.

On Sun, Mar 18, 2018 at 7:47 PM, bryantburke@... [DSN_KLR650] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> wrote: I'm thinking about getting a tank bag and panniers to slightly increase my cargo capacity. Wolfman looks good and I am willing to spend top dollar for a quality product made in the USA. At present I'm looking at the Explorer Lite tank bag. That's probably a done deal unless someone has a negative review. (And yes, I know I'll need different straps for the Gen 1 and Gen 2 bikes). Does anyone have experience with the Wolfman panniers? Photos make it look like they would be very close to where my knees are. Wolfman of course says "no problem" but there are no reviews of the panniers on their web site. Any comments or suggestions about adding cargo capacity up front would be welcome. I've never ridden with tank mounted luggage. Bryan

[eddie mauri]

OK, so I am going to take a work contract that is going to keep me away from home for months at a time. I have to put my KLR in storage, it might be there for four -  five months before I ride it again. I am thinking, 1.  empty the tank 2. add seafoam, and 3.  put it on it's center stand.  I think I can balance it so that neither tire is actually touching the ground (or at least not much weight).  Am I missing anything? I suppose I should disconnect the battery as it will be dead by the time I get back. Any suggestions? 31N90W Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android

[SniperOne308]

I assume you are talking about inside storage where it's protected from the weather and from rodents that build nests in unusual places on bikes while they nibble through wiring insulation... Your list is a good one if you run seafoam into the carb before draining the tank, lines, float bowl, etc. Alternately, you could find some real gasoline (pure-gas.com) - drain the ethanol fuel and add seafoam to the real gas to keep it stable for a few months (into the carb too).  If you use this method be sure the tank is full to the top to reduce condensate that forms in a tank with dead air space (or empty) leading to possible rust. I agree with disconnecting the battery if you're not using a smart tender. Tires should be at max pressure as listed on the tire. I prefer to do a clean air filter and fresh oil/filter as any particulates in dirty oil will settle into sludge in the bottom of the cases. Randy Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone -------- Original message -------- From: "eddie mauri eddiebmauri@... [DSN_KLR650]" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> Date: 3/20/18 7:48 PM (GMT-07:00) To: dsn_klr650@yahoogroups.com Subject: [DSN_KLR650] KLR Storage...... Need Suggestions   OK, so I am going to take a work contract that is going to keep me away from home for months at a time. I have to put my KLR in storage, it might be there for four -  five months before I ride it again. I am thinking, 1.  empty the tank 2. add seafoam, and 3.  put it on it's center stand.  I think I can balance it so that neither tire is actually touching the ground (or at least not much weight).  Am I missing anything? I suppose I should disconnect the battery as it will be dead by the time I get back. Any suggestions? 31N90W Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android

[vegaheim]

as long as you have real gasoline you can fill the fuel tank (to keep humidity low) and add seafoam or any fuel stabilizer of choice and run it a few times prior to storage that way the stabilizer is all over. as for battery you can just leave plug to a smart trickle charger or not.  my experience with it  as my bike gets about a six to seven month storage during winter every year. Never had a problem with the fuel or battery. Tires do as you please.

[Martin Earl]

I Eddie, I would agree with a the above suggestion of 1.Add Sea Foam (1oz per gallon)2. Let the treated fuel flow through all the passages3. Top off the tank when the bike reaches it final resting place. Removing the battery is 'good' or at the very least remove the ground wire. This probably is not necessary if it is a glass-mat technology battery, as many have stated the bike starts right up after 6m and no battery tender.You could always give away the battery, especially if you know it is not boing to be 'tendered' or give it to a friend and request they use your battery tender on it.When I do this, I use a plastic container to trap and possible leakage. I only disagree with (some suggestion) of leaving fuel in the carb for an extended period of time.I believe I get along better (in my climate) of draining/running the fuel bowls dry after treatment rather than leaving fuel in the fuel bowl . (same goes for the snow blower and lawn mowers, etal.)ymmv. I would add this:After the treated fuel has ran through the carb, ie min. or 5 minutes, it would be a good practice to let it set overnight or two (or a week) to soak the varnish in the individual circuits.Then, following the 'circuit soaking'--(If you have time to do all that)-- After running the bike at full operating temps to hopefully remove all trapped combustion moisture in the oil, oil circuits,1. Shut off the fuel petcock with bike running and let the bike empty the fuel bowl. (I like to do this on the center stand, or you could hold the bike level) 2. As the bike sputters in the last moments, engage the 'enricher' to suck the fuel from that circuit. 2a. If the bike dies before you engaged the 'enricher' lever, put the enricher lever-ON to full and crank the bike. it may or may not start and run 3-5 seconds, but it will clear the circuit completely . 3. Manually drain the fuel bowl (right side, drain screw) This is not necessary if you used the center stand, or held the bike level.)4. Definitely top off the fuel. (However, you will need to leave a little expansion room if the bike is going to be left standing in a hot place) If the bike is only setting for There have been some years that the bikes sit for 5 months due to cold, snow and ice. ugh. The really odd part of non-local employment, you never know if you will return for sure....Under such circumstances, I would be tempted to drain all the fuel, to ensure all standing water (which could be a single droplet) was removed from the gas tank wings.That droplet will be eating the tank, especially if it is touching a spot where the weld is weak. (It was 'so' on a 10 year old KLR 250 with only 950 miles; such a repair was necessary, and with JB "Quick "Weld while riding it 1750 miles home to SD.) If you leave the tank full (I do, as I believe I will be riding them 3-6m later0, when you come back, if the fuel smells like varnish, then it has to be drained. as a side note:Starting in late Oct (@ South Dakota) I add Sea Foam to every fill up as one never know is this is going to be the last ride. Thankfully, we have non-ethanol, 'straight-gas' available in many locations, so the water attraction to 30+ day old Ethanol fuel is not as big a problem. Same advice applies if you just broke ribs or a wrist. (AMHIK)...however, your buddy may have to add the Seafoam for you.Might be slightly different advice if you only broke a leg. shrug. revmaaatin.

On Wed, Mar 21, 2018 at 2:13 AM, vegaheim@... [DSN_KLR650] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> wrote: as long as you have real gasoline you can fill the fuel tank (to keep humidity low) and add seafoam or any fuel stabilizer of choice and run it a few times prior to storage that way the stabilizer is all over. as for battery you can just leave plug to a smart trickle charger or not. my experience with it as my bike gets about a six to seven month storage during winter every year. Never had a problem with the fuel or battery. Tires do as you please.

[ccoppolapolnet]

Agree with above smart recs. I think you have to make an honest estimate if you will get to start it up within 3 mo or not. If yes, treated gas circulated, full tank, tender. In no, "winterized" with treated gas then emptied carb, empty tank and disconnected battery, moved to indoor temps. To keep my tires from getting flat spots, I use my tall centerstand and swingarm paddock stand. You could use a stick or mark-nets diy rear stand if you dont have a rear paddock. Love the idea of seafoam to every fillup in late autumn, my practice is to add star tron to every tank year round. Good luck in new job!

[martin polach]

Hate to sound casual ..but I simply park the bike in the fall...(in an unheated garage...in Calgary..temp can drop into the -30 range)

Charge the battery once or twice through out the winter...

Then come spring...or there about....Check the tyre pressure..., oil etc and then start her up and go ride..

Been doing this for many years 1997 KLR with just over 100,000 km and never had an issue...dumb luck ?

Don't know but the old girl keeps on puttering along...

Good, safe riding for all!

Martin