this group away?

[Martin Earl]

List,I found this article on Thumper Talk this morning.It is the easiest to understand suspension tutorial I have ever read.This article contains more than stock-OEM-KLR content, (or obituaries) yet, it will still be helpful to those that have adopted/grafted a tune-able suspension, or on their 'other' bike that has a more tune-able suspension. I hope you will find it as interesting as I did. martinearl. https://thumpertalk.com/articles/tuning-your-suspension-where-to-start-r130/?trlv=347847&utm_source=emailcampaign269&utm_medium=phpList&utm_content=HTMLemail&utm_campaign=Coolant+heated+handlebars%3F%3F%3F Tuning Your Suspension-Where to Start?

By Stillwell Performance

[*] February 3, 2010 One of the most common calls we get here at the shop is how do you recommend I go about tuning my suspension? Good question! The second most common call is I started turning clickers on the front/back/bottom/top etc. and now I don t know what I did, help! The amount of improvement you can gain from proper suspension setup is significant, if you go about it in the right way.

Look at it this way: if you are 6ft. tall and get in your truck after your 5 ft. 3in. wife just drove it, the first thing you are going to do is adjust the seat/steering wheel, etc. for your size. The same thing goes for your bike s suspension-last week we had (3) 2010 bikes in the shop for revalves at the same time. Identical models, one guy was a 150lbs. pro racing MX, the next guy was a B level GNCC racer and weighed 220, and the third guy was a 180lbs. trail rider. Same bike, three totally different setups!

[b]So with that in mind, here is where to start:[/b]

Grab your owners manual, a computer, clipboard and a scale. You cannot effectively start tuning until you determine if the correct springs (fork and shock) are on the bike for your weight. Put down the double cheeseburger, hop on the scale, and get your weight in street clothes. Add in for your gear, which typically runs between 20-30lbs. You can easily check recommended spring rates by visiting www.racetech.com under their spring rate calculator. Look in your manual (or ask your tuner) and see what rates are on the bike.

If you need to change spring rates-do it first. Trust me on this, trying to tune suspension with the wrong rates is not only frustrating, but you will be short changing yourself on the results. On most bikes the shock spring is easily changed, fork springs can be a bit more difficult-get qualified help if you need it.

Even if you are familiar with what clickers are, take a moment and read your manual. Determine what style of forks you have (closed cartridge or open cartridge), where the compression and rebound clickers are, and check to see if your shock has both a high speed and low speed compression adjustment.

Grab the right tools to adjust, load up and go find a typical piece of terrain to test on. By typical I mean your MX track, hare scrambles course or favorite singletrack. You don t need to ride a 30 mile loop in order to adjust your bike, rather focus on finding a section of track/trail that has all the different types of jumps/bumps/whoops you encounter.

OK here is where I will preach a bit-everybody has a buddy or two that claims to know suspension and setup. This is YOUR bike, and unless you plan on dragging him around on the back of the seat the end result of your tuning should be focused on what feels good to YOU. Trust the feedback the bike gives you ..

SET YOUR RIDER SAG!!!!!!! This is critical to tuning properly. Again, look in your manual or ask your tuning dude.

If you do not have an idea of where to set your clickers, put them in the middle of their adjustment range. This is your baseline setting.

Gear up and get warmed up. It is important to be loosened up on the bike BEFORE you start tuning, or you run the chance of mis-diagnosing how the bike is feeling (I never start testing until I have at least 15-20 minutes of warmup time on the bike-I always ride stiff initially and sometimes do not get into a groove until then). Some guys can just jump on and pin the damn thing right from the truck. You know who you are, Wattsy

Remember, this is a tuning session not the MXoN. Use you head and ride at a pace UNDER you max speed-there will be plenty of time to fang it once you have zeroed in on some good settings.

OK-ride and get a good feel for the bike with the clickers in the middle of their range. Now it s time to really find out what too soft and too hard means.

Take your clickers and turn them all the way out, full soft. Go ride the bike, but take it easy-it will feel ALOT different. Then come back in and turn everything all the way stiff-go ride again, being careful as this will feel totally different again. For guys that have tuned a bit, these two steps might seem pretty basic, but you will be amazed at the difference in how the bike feels. This is especially helpful for guys who are just starting out.

Set everything back to baseline. FROM THIS POINT ON YOU WILL ONLY MAKE ONE ADJUSTMENT AT A TIME!!!!!!

So now you will want to determine your tuning range. The tuning range is what settings you will use to adjust for different conditions. For example, If you are an MX racer as well as an occasional singletrack rider you will want to use different settings for those conditions.

Fork compression is a good place to start. Ride your test section at baseline, then go about 3 clicks softer. The question to ask yourself after each adjustment is: Does it feel BETTER, WORSE, or THE SAME????

There are no right and wrong answers, only what you feel. So let's assume that the 3 clicks softer felt better-go 3 more clicks softer each time until it does not feel as good. You have just found the soft end of your fork compression tuning range. Now return to baseline and do the same thing, only this time go stiffer. After you have found the best compression setting, work on rebound. Remember, one adjustment at a time ONLY or you can become confused!!! Do the same testing with your shock. Once you have both comp and rebound individually adjusted, you can fine tune them to work together-just make one adjustment at a time!

As a final test, when you have what you would consider your best setup, write it down, then go back and compare that to your initial baseline, riding both setups back to back. Might surprise you .

I could go into some advanced tuning topics about the interrelation of compression/rebound, high and low speed comp, tuning for extremes, etc. but we will save that for another newsletter. Take your time, tune by how your bike feels to you and have fun. You will be surprised by how much better you will ride with well adjusted suspension.

You can learn more at www.stillwellperformance.com

[Buddy Eckles]

List, I found this article on Thumper Talk this morning. It is the easiest to understand suspension tutorial I have ever read. This article contains more than stock-OEM-KLR content, (or obituaries) yet, it will still be helpful to those that have adopted/grafted  a tune-able suspension, or on their 'other' bike that has a more tune-able suspension. I hope you will find it as interesting as I did.  martinearl. https://thumpertalk.com/articles/tuning-your-suspension-where-to-start-r130/?trlv=347847&utm_source=emailcampaign269&utm_medium=phpList&utm_content=HTMLemail&utm_campaign=Coolant+heated+handlebars%3F%3F%3F Tuning Your Suspension-Where to Start?

By Stillwell Performance

[*]February 3, 2010 One of the most common calls we get here at the shop is how do you recommend I go about tuning my suspension? Good question! The second most common call is I started turning clickers on the front/back/bottom/top etc. and now I don t know what I did, help! The amount of improvement you can gain from proper suspension setup is significant, if you go about it in the right way.

Look at it this way: if you are 6ft. tall and get in your truck after your 5 ft. 3in. wife just drove it, the first thing you are going to do is adjust the seat/steering wheel, etc. for your size. The same thing goes for your bike s suspension-last week we had (3) 2010 bikes in the shop for revalves at the same time. Identical models, one guy was a 150lbs. pro racing MX, the next guy was a B level GNCC racer and weighed 220, and the third guy was a 180lbs. trail rider. Same bike, three totally different setups!

[b]So with that in mind, here is where to start:[/b]

Grab your owners manual, a computer, clipboard and a scale. You cannot effectively start tuning until you determine if the correct springs (fork and shock) are on the bike for your weight. Put down the double cheeseburger, hop on the scale, and get your weight in street clothes. Add in for your gear, which typically runs between 20-30lbs. You can easily check recommended spring rates by visiting www.racetech.com under their spring rate calculator. Look in your manual (or ask your tuner) and see what rates are on the bike.

If you need to change spring rates-do it first. Trust me on this, trying to tune suspension with the wrong rates is not only frustrating, but you will be short changing yourself on the results. On most bikes the shock spring is easily changed, fork springs can be a bit more difficult-get qualified help if you need it.

Even if you are familiar with what clickers are, take a moment and read your manual. Determine what style of forks you have (closed cartridge or open cartridge), where the compression and rebound clickers are, and check to see if your shock has both a high speed and low speed compression adjustment.

Grab the right tools to adjust, load up and go find a typical piece of terrain to test on. By typical I mean your MX track, hare scrambles course or favorite singletrack. You don t need to ride a 30 mile loop in order to adjust your bike, rather focus on finding a section of track/trail that has all the different types of jumps/bumps/whoops you encounter.

OK here is where I will preach a bit-everybody has a buddy or two that claims to know suspension and setup. This is YOUR bike, and unless you plan on dragging him around on the back of the seat the end result of your tuning should be focused on what feels good to YOU. Trust the feedback the bike gives you ..

SET YOUR RIDER SAG!!!!!!! This is critical to tuning properly. Again, look in your manual or ask your tuning dude.

If you do not have an idea of where to set your clickers, put them in the middle of their adjustment range. This is your baseline setting.

Gear up and get warmed up. It is important to be loosened up on the bike BEFORE you start tuning, or you run the chance of mis-diagnosing how the bike is feeling (I never start testing until I have at least 15-20 minutes of warmup time on the bike-I always ride stiff initially and sometimes do not get into a groove until then). Some guys can just jump on and pin the damn thing right from the truck. You know who you are, Wattsy

Remember, this is a tuning session not the MXoN. Use you head and ride at a pace UNDER you max speed-there will be plenty of time to fang it once you have zeroed in on some good settings.

OK-ride and get a good feel for the bike with the clickers in the middle of their range. Now it s time to really find out what too soft and too hard means.

Take your clickers and turn them all the way out, full soft. Go ride the bike, but take it easy-it will feel ALOT different. Then come back in and turn everything all the way stiff-go ride again, being careful as this will feel totally different again. For guys that have tuned a bit, these two steps might seem pretty basic, but you will be amazed at the difference in how the bike feels. This is especially helpful for guys who are just starting out.

Set everything back to baseline. FROM THIS POINT ON YOU WILL ONLY MAKE ONE ADJUSTMENT AT A TIME!!!!!!

So now you will want to determine your tuning range. The tuning range is what settings you will use to adjust for different conditions. For example, If you are an MX racer as well as an occasional singletrack rider you will want to use different settings for those conditions.

Fork compression is a good place to start. Ride your test section at baseline, then go about 3 clicks softer. The question to ask yourself after each adjustment is: Does it feel BETTER, WORSE, or THE SAME????

There are no right and wrong answers, only what you feel. So let's assume that the 3 clicks softer felt better-go 3 more clicks softer each time until it does not feel as good. You have just found the soft end of your fork compression tuning range. Now return to baseline and do the same thing, only this time go stiffer. After you have found the best compression setting, work on rebound. Remember, one adjustment at a time ONLY or you can become confused!!! Do the same testing with your shock.. Once you have both comp and rebound individually adjusted, you can fine tune them to work together-just make one adjustment at a time!

As a final test, when you have what you would consider your best setup, write it down, then go back and compare that to your initial baseline, riding both setups back to back. Might surprise you .

I could go into some advanced tuning topics about the interrelation of compression/rebound, high and low speed comp, tuning for extremes, etc. but we will save that for another newsletter. Take your time, tune by how your bike feels to you and have fun. You will be surprised by how much better you will ride with well adjusted suspension.

You can learn more at www.stillwellperformance.com

[cloudten751]

Thanks for this - always timely to rethink/revisit the suspension settings as the girl (KLR bike s name is Sheila fun loving girl) comes out of hibernation

 

Stu

2002 KLR 650

2009 DL-1000 VStrom

 

[b]From:[/b] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> [b]Sent:[/b] Friday, March 16, 2018 5:28 PM [b]To:[/b] undisclosed-recipients: [b]Subject:[/b] [DSN_KLR650] Suspension tuning made simpler

 

 

List,

I found this article on Thumper Talk this morning.

It is the easiest to understand suspension tutorial I have ever read.

This article contains more than stock-OEM-KLR content, (or obituaries) yet, it will still be helpful to those that have adopted/grafted  a tune-able suspension, or on their 'other' bike that has a more tune-able suspension.

 

I hope you will find it as interesting as I did. 

 

martinearl.

 

 

 

https://thumpertalk.com/articles/tuning-your-suspension-where-to-start-r130/?trlv=347847&utm_source=emailcampaign269&utm_medium=phpList&utm_content=HTMLemail&utm_campaign=Coolant+heated+handlebars%3F%3F%3F

 

Tuning Your Suspension-Where to Start?

 

 

By Stillwell Performance

February 3, 2010One of the most common calls we get here at the shop is how do you recommend I go about tuning my suspension? Good question! The second most common call is I started turning clickers on the front/back/bottom/top etc. and now I don t know what I did, help! The amount of improvement you can gain from proper suspension setup is significant, if you go about it in the right way.

Look at it this way: if you are 6ft. tall and get in your truck after your 5 ft. 3in. wife just drove it, the first thing you are going to do is adjust the seat/steering wheel, etc. for your size. The same thing goes for your bike s suspension-last week we had (3) 2010 bikes in the shop for revalves at the same time. Identical models, one guy was a 150lbs. pro racing MX, the next guy was a B level GNCC racer and weighed 220, and the third guy was a 180lbs. trail rider. Same bike, three totally different setups!

[b]So with that in mind, here is where to start:[/b]

Grab your owners manual, a computer, clipboard and a scale. You cannot effectively start tuning until you determine if the correct springs (fork and shock) are on the bike for your weight. Put down the double cheeseburger, hop on the scale, and get your weight in street clothes. Add in for your gear, which typically runs between 20-30lbs. You can easily check recommended spring rates by visiting www.racetech.com under their spring rate calculator. Look in your manual (or ask your tuner) and see what rates are on the bike.

If you need to change spring rates-do it first. Trust me on this, trying to tune suspension with the wrong rates is not only frustrating, but you will be short changing yourself on the results. On most bikes the shock spring is easily changed, fork springs can be a bit more difficult-get qualified help if you need it.

Even if you are familiar with what clickers are, take a moment and read your manual. Determine what style of forks you have (closed cartridge or open cartridge), where the compression and rebound clickers are, and check to see if your shock has both a high speed and low speed compression adjustment.

Grab the right tools to adjust, load up and go find a typical piece of terrain to test on. By typical I mean your MX track, hare scrambles course or favorite singletrack. You don t need to ride a 30 mile loop in order to adjust your bike, rather focus on finding a section of track/trail that has all the different types of jumps/bumps/whoops you encounter.

OK here is where I will preach a bit-everybody has a buddy or two that claims to know suspension and setup. This is YOUR bike, and unless you plan on dragging him around on the back of the seat the end result of your tuning should be focused on what feels good to YOU. Trust the feedback the bike gives you ..

SET YOUR RIDER SAG!!!!!!! This is critical to tuning properly. Again, look in your manual or ask your tuning dude.

If you do not have an idea of where to set your clickers, put them in the middle of their adjustment range. This is your baseline setting.

Gear up and get warmed up. It is important to be loosened up on the bike BEFORE you start tuning, or you run the chance of mis-diagnosing how the bike is feeling (I never start testing until I have at least 15-20 minutes of warmup time on the bike-I always ride stiff initially and sometimes do not get into a groove until then). Some guys can just jump on and pin the damn thing right from the truck. You know who you are, Wattsy

Remember, this is a tuning session not the MXoN. Use you head and ride at a pace UNDER you max speed-there will be plenty of time to fang it once you have zeroed in on some good settings.

OK-ride and get a good feel for the bike with the clickers in the middle of their range. Now it s time to really find out what too soft and too hard means.

Take your clickers and turn them all the way out, full soft. Go ride the bike, but take it easy-it will feel ALOT different. Then come back in and turn everything all the way stiff-go ride again, being careful as this will feel totally different again. For guys that have tuned a bit, these two steps might seem pretty basic, but you will be amazed at the difference in how the bike feels. This is especially helpful for guys who are just starting out.

Set everything back to baseline. FROM THIS POINT ON YOU WILL ONLY MAKE ONE ADJUSTMENT AT A TIME!!!!!!

So now you will want to determine your tuning range. The tuning range is what settings you will use to adjust for different conditions. For example, If you are an MX racer as well as an occasional singletrack rider you will want to use different settings for those conditions.

Fork compression is a good place to start. Ride your test section at baseline, then go about 3 clicks softer. The question to ask yourself after each adjustment is: Does it feel BETTER, WORSE, or THE SAME????

There are no right and wrong answers, only what you feel. So let's assume that the 3 clicks softer felt better-go 3 more clicks softer each time until it does not feel as good. You have just found the soft end of your fork compression tuning range. Now return to baseline and do the same thing, only this time go stiffer. After you have found the best compression setting, work on rebound. Remember, one adjustment at a time ONLY or you can become confused!!! Do the same testing with your shock.. Once you have both comp and rebound individually adjusted, you can fine tune them to work together-just make one adjustment at a time!

As a final test, when you have what you would consider your best setup, write it down, then go back and compare that to your initial baseline, riding both setups back to back. Might surprise you .

I could go into some advanced tuning topics about the interrelation of compression/rebound, high and low speed comp, tuning for extremes, etc. but we will save that for another newsletter. Take your time, tune by how your bike feels to you and have fun. You will be surprised by how much better you will ride with well adjusted suspension.

You can learn more at www.stillwellperformance.com

 

[Martin Earl]

The Thumper Talk post was the simplest, easiest to follow instructions I have ever read.NOW, the DRZ owners manual makes sense. cough. Two KLR's (that I know of) here in the Black Hills have had a USD forkectomy and now have a fully tuneable front suspension.I have been watching for a donor bike but nothing in my price range. cough. I 'almost' robbed the forks off of the KLX300 before selling it...those were some nice forks. I have slummed around a few local bike shops to see if they had any clapped out bikes with USD forks?"We don't trade for clapped out bikes."Well, there you go.I guess I just need a few more friends in low places, as the song goes. m1.

On Sat, Mar 17, 2018 at 1:40 PM, wrote: Thanks for this - always timely to rethink/revisit the suspension settings as the girl (KLR bike s name is Sheila fun loving girl) comes out of hibernation [u][/u][u][/u]

[u][/u] [u][/u]

Stu[u][/u][u][/u]

2002 KLR 650[u][/u][u][/u]

2009 DL-1000 VStrom[u][/u][u][/u]

[u][/u] [u][/u]

[b]From:[/b] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> [b]Sent:[/b] Friday, March 16, 2018 5:28 PM [b]To:[/b] undisclosed-recipients: [b]Subject:[/b] [DSN_KLR650] Suspension tuning made simpler[u][/u][u][/u]

[u][/u] [u][/u]

[u][/u][u][/u]

List,[u][/u][u][/u]

I found this article on Thumper Talk this morning.[u][/u][u][/u]

It is the easiest to understand suspension tutorial I have ever read.[u][/u][u][/u]

This article contains more than stock-OEM-KLR content, (or obituaries) yet, it will still be helpful to those that have adopted/grafted a tune-able suspension, or on their 'other' bike that has a more tune-able suspension.[u][/u][u][/u]

[u][/u] [u][/u]

I hope you will find it as interesting as I did. [u][/u][u][/u]

[u][/u] [u][/u]

martinearl.[u][/u][u][/u]

[u][/u] [u][/u]

[u][/u] [u][/u]

[u][/u] [u][/u]

https://thumpertalk.com/ articles/tuning-your- suspension-where-to-start- r130/?trlv=347847&utm_source= emailcampaign269&utm_medium= phpList&utm_content=HTMLemail& utm_campaign=Coolant+heated+ handlebars%3F%3F%3F[u][/u][u][/u]

[u][/u] [u][/u]

Tuning Your Suspension-Where to Start?[u][/u][u][/u]

[u][/u] [u][/u]

[u][/u] [u][/u]

By Stillwell Performance [u][/u][u][/u]

February 3, 2010[u][/u][u][/u]One of the most common calls we get here at the shop is how do you recommend I go about tuning my suspension? Good question! The second most common call is I started turning clickers on the front/back/bottom/top etc. and now I don t know what I did, help! The amount of improvement you can gain from proper suspension setup is significant, if you go about it in the right way. [u][/u][u][/u]

Look at it this way: if you are 6ft. tall and get in your truck after your 5 ft. 3in. wife just drove it, the first thing you are going to do is adjust the seat/steering wheel, etc. for your size. The same thing goes for your bike s suspension-last week we had (3) 2010 bikes in the shop for revalves at the same time. Identical models, one guy was a 150lbs. pro racing MX, the next guy was a B level GNCC racer and weighed 220, and the third guy was a 180lbs. trail rider. Same bike, three totally different setups! [u][/u][u][/u]

[b]So with that in mind, here is where to start:[/b] [u][/u][u][/u]

Grab your owners manual, a computer, clipboard and a scale. You cannot effectively start tuning until you determine if the correct springs (fork and shock) are on the bike for your weight. Put down the double cheeseburger, hop on the scale, and get your weight in street clothes. Add in for your gear, which typically runs between 20-30lbs. You can easily check recommended spring rates by visiting www.racetech.com under their spring rate calculator. Look in your manual (or ask your tuner) and see what rates are on the bike. [u][/u][u][/u]

If you need to change spring rates-do it first. Trust me on this, trying to tune suspension with the wrong rates is not only frustrating, but you will be short changing yourself on the results. On most bikes the shock spring is easily changed, fork springs can be a bit more difficult-get qualified help if you need it. [u][/u][u][/u]

Even if you are familiar with what clickers are, take a moment and read your manual. Determine what style of forks you have (closed cartridge or open cartridge), where the compression and rebound clickers are, and check to see if your shock has both a high speed and low speed compression adjustment. [u][/u][u][/u]

Grab the right tools to adjust, load up and go find a typical piece of terrain to test on. By typical I mean your MX track, hare scrambles course or favorite singletrack. You don t need to ride a 30 mile loop in order to adjust your bike, rather focus on finding a section of track/trail that has all the different types of jumps/bumps/whoops you encounter. [u][/u][u][/u]

OK here is where I will preach a bit-everybody has a buddy or two that claims to know suspension and setup. This is YOUR bike, and unless you plan on dragging him around on the back of the seat the end result of your tuning should be focused on what feels good to YOU. Trust the feedback the bike gives you .. [u][/u][u][/u]

SET YOUR RIDER SAG!!!!!!! This is critical to tuning properly. Again, look in your manual or ask your tuning dude. [u][/u][u][/u]

If you do not have an idea of where to set your clickers, put them in the middle of their adjustment range. This is your baseline setting. [u][/u][u][/u]

Gear up and get warmed up. It is important to be loosened up on the bike BEFORE you start tuning, or you run the chance of mis-diagnosing how the bike is feeling (I never start testing until I have at least 15-20 minutes of warmup time on the bike-I always ride stiff initially and sometimes do not get into a groove until then). Some guys can just jump on and pin the damn thing right from the truck. You know who you are, Wattsy [u][/u][u][/u]

Remember, this is a tuning session not the MXoN. Use you head and ride at a pace UNDER you max speed-there will be plenty of time to fang it once you have zeroed in on some good settings. [u][/u][u][/u]

OK-ride and get a good feel for the bike with the clickers in the middle of their range. Now it s time to really find out what too soft and too hard means. [u][/u][u][/u]

Take your clickers and turn them all the way out, full soft. Go ride the bike, but take it easy-it will feel ALOT different. Then come back in and turn everything all the way stiff-go ride again, being careful as this will feel totally different again. For guys that have tuned a bit, these two steps might seem pretty basic, but you will be amazed at the difference in how the bike feels. This is especially helpful for guys who are just starting out. [u][/u][u][/u]

Set everything back to baseline. FROM THIS POINT ON YOU WILL ONLY MAKE ONE ADJUSTMENT AT A TIME!!!!!! [u][/u][u][/u]

So now you will want to determine your tuning range. The tuning range is what settings you will use to adjust for different conditions. For example, If you are an MX racer as well as an occasional singletrack rider you will want to use different settings for those conditions. [u][/u][u][/u]

Fork compression is a good place to start. Ride your test section at baseline, then go about 3 clicks softer. The question to ask yourself after each adjustment is: Does it feel BETTER, WORSE, or THE SAME???? [u][/u][u][/u]

There are no right and wrong answers, only what you feel. So let's assume that the 3 clicks softer felt better-go 3 more clicks softer each time until it does not feel as good. You have just found the soft end of your fork compression tuning range. Now return to baseline and do the same thing, only this time go stiffer. After you have found the best compression setting, work on rebound. Remember, one adjustment at a time ONLY or you can become confused!!! Do the same testing with your shock.. Once you have both comp and rebound individually adjusted, you can fine tune them to work together-just make one adjustment at a time! [u][/u][u][/u]

As a final test, when you have what you would consider your best setup, write it down, then go back and compare that to your initial baseline, riding both setups back to back. Might surprise you . [u][/u][u][/u]

I could go into some advanced tuning topics about the interrelation of compression/rebound, high and low speed comp, tuning for extremes, etc. but we will save that for another newsletter. Take your time, tune by how your bike feels to you and have fun. You will be surprised by how much better you will ride with well adjusted suspension. [u][/u][u][/u]

You can learn more at www.stillwellperformance.com [u][/u][u][/u]

[u][/u] [u][/u]

[u][/u][u][/u]

[RobertWichert]

This group still exists. So does Facebook. Room for everybody! Robert P. Wichert P.Eng. LEED AP CEPE CEA HERS I/II BPI BA +1 916 966 9060 FAX +1 916 966 9068 On 3/16/2018 8:07 AM, Ronnie Magen quahaug@... [DSN_KLR650] wrote:

THAT is exactly what happened to a local Group about/with British Motorcycles & Riders. I 'signed up' to follow along AND NOW all I get is a continual 'assault' of GARBAGE from everywhere ! Only occassionally do I get ANYTHING about the Riders in the group. NEVER anything about the Riders, or 'Meet ups, or Rides. 1a. This group going away? Posted by: RJTaylor@... notanymoore Date: Thu Mar 15, 2018 9:20 am ((PDT)) I noticed the KLR Adventure Group has already ceased activity. And this group has tailed off significantly. I assume everyone is going to Facebook groups for discussion?

[Mark Harfenist]

A resounding yes to all of the above! This forum has been a hugely-supportive favorite since I first decided that I was finally grown up enough to survive bike ownership about ten years ago (age 50+). People here helped me through the steep early learning curve, purchase, outfitting, and eventual riding on quite a few continents during the four or five years it took me to put almost a hundred thousand miles on that brand new 2007. It s hard to imagine relying similarly on any of the alternative sites. Overland riding, for which the KLR was perfectly suited, was my attempt to travel as I ve always done, but at a level of comfort (and within a price range) more suited to my aging body and attitudes. Riding can be tough at times, but I found it a lot more plush than my previous world travels with a backpack. Along similar lines, most of my riding these days is on my decidedly-more-comfortable Vstrom, though I question this choice every time I wander off the main routes in search of better scenery and mild adventures. I ve also taken to full time employment again, and tend to limit my trips to three-week chunks scattered throughout the year I m writing from Vietnam, and hoping for Azerbaijan and Georgia in the fall. This means lots of rental bikes, and lots of hauling riding gear through little airports, trains and dilapidated buses. Like others here, the Facebook format doesn t really work for me. Clearly it s driving out the old-fashioned web forums not just in motorcycling, but in other areas where I ve been active, like backcountry skiing and other forms of travel. On the other hand, the sheer volume of information which is so easily available these days makes progress however objectionable I may find it inevitable. My thanks to those who ve made this forum possible and so rewarding over the years! This includes Fred, of course, but also a great many frequent contributors, some of whom probably don t think they have much of value to say. If you like it, contribute (or watch it fade away, sooner than you think)! Gotta go: a little Honda is waiting in Hoi An, and I ve got a lot of exploring to do during the next couple of weeks. Safe riding to all! Mark Sent from my iPad