Page 2 of 6
valves
Posted: Fri Mar 11, 2005 1:49 am
by Kent Meyer
My bike ate the doohickey a couple weeks back. It completely chewed up the
spring and left the doohickey in pieces. I removed the motor from the bike
and took it to the dealer to split the case and reassemble every thing for
me. After I got the motor back in the bike and every thing hooked up, it
wouldn't start. Took it back to the dealer and they told me that the intake
valves were leaking. I removed the head (again) and sure enough the intake
valves are bent. Maybe when the spring went through the chains it jumped
the timing chain and the valves hit the piston... I did not see anything on
the piston. But the valves are bent. Can I just replace the valves? What
about the piston? If I replace the valves, do the valve seats need to be
ground?
Thanks
Kent
valves
Posted: Fri Mar 11, 2005 6:51 am
by moabmc1
--- In
DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Kent Meyer"
wrote:
> My bike ate the doohickey a couple weeks back. It completely
chewed up the
> spring and left the doohickey in pieces. I removed the motor from
the bike
> and took it to the dealer to split the case and reassemble every
thing for
> me. After I got the motor back in the bike and every thing hooked
up, it
> wouldn't start. Took it back to the dealer and they told me that
the intake
> valves were leaking. I removed the head (again) and sure enough
the intake
> valves are bent. Maybe when the spring went through the chains it
jumped
> the timing chain and the valves hit the piston... I did not see
anything on
> the piston. But the valves are bent. Can I just replace the
valves? What
> about the piston? If I replace the valves, do the valve seats need
to be
> ground?
>
> Thanks
>
> Kent
More than likely all you will need to replace is just the bent
valves. I would "lap-in" the new valves unless you have lots of
miles on the head. If the valve seats look pitted, then you will
probably need to grind the seats.
What else did you have to replace in your engine? Sorry to hear
about your problems.
Fred
www.arrowheadmotorsports.com
valves
Posted: Fri Mar 11, 2005 9:35 am
by Kent Meyer
The bike is a 2003 and has about 12000 miles on it. I replaced the balancer
chain as it had eaten the spring. And since the engine was apart, I put in
new rings. I am having the dealer do the work. I suppose that I could do
it, but I am not a professional mechanic and have absolutely no experience
with 4 stroke motorcycle engines so.....
Where can I get the valves?
Thanks
Kent
-----Original Message-----
From: moabmc1 [mailto:moabmc@...]
Sent: Friday, March 11, 2005 4:51 AM
To:
DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Valves
--- In
DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Kent Meyer"
wrote:
> My bike ate the doohickey a couple weeks back. It completely
chewed up the
> spring and left the doohickey in pieces. I removed the motor from
the bike
> and took it to the dealer to split the case and reassemble every
thing for
> me. After I got the motor back in the bike and every thing hooked
up, it
> wouldn't start. Took it back to the dealer and they told me that
the intake
> valves were leaking. I removed the head (again) and sure enough
the intake
> valves are bent. Maybe when the spring went through the chains it
jumped
> the timing chain and the valves hit the piston... I did not see
anything on
> the piston. But the valves are bent. Can I just replace the
valves? What
> about the piston? If I replace the valves, do the valve seats need
to be
> ground?
>
> Thanks
>
> Kent
More than likely all you will need to replace is just the bent
valves. I would "lap-in" the new valves unless you have lots of
miles on the head. If the valve seats look pitted, then you will
probably need to grind the seats.
What else did you have to replace in your engine? Sorry to hear
about your problems.
Fred
www.arrowheadmotorsports.com
Archive Quicksearch at:
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valves
Posted: Fri Mar 11, 2005 1:09 pm
by Fred Hink
Since you are having the dealer do the work, why not have him get the parts
you need?
Fred
http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com
http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/cmc.html
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kent Meyer"
To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, March 11, 2005 8:33 AM
Subject: RE: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Valves
>
> The bike is a 2003 and has about 12000 miles on it. I replaced the
balancer
> chain as it had eaten the spring. And since the engine was apart, I put
in
> new rings. I am having the dealer do the work. I suppose that I could do
> it, but I am not a professional mechanic and have absolutely no experience
> with 4 stroke motorcycle engines so.....
> Where can I get the valves?
>
> Thanks
>
> Kent
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: moabmc1 [mailto:moabmc@...]
> Sent: Friday, March 11, 2005 4:51 AM
> To:
DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Valves
>
>
>
>
> --- In
DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Kent Meyer"
> wrote:
> > My bike ate the doohickey a couple weeks back. It completely
> chewed up the
> > spring and left the doohickey in pieces. I removed the motor from
> the bike
> > and took it to the dealer to split the case and reassemble every
> thing for
> > me. After I got the motor back in the bike and every thing hooked
> up, it
> > wouldn't start. Took it back to the dealer and they told me that
> the intake
> > valves were leaking. I removed the head (again) and sure enough
> the intake
> > valves are bent. Maybe when the spring went through the chains it
> jumped
> > the timing chain and the valves hit the piston... I did not see
> anything on
> > the piston. But the valves are bent. Can I just replace the
> valves? What
> > about the piston? If I replace the valves, do the valve seats need
> to be
> > ground?
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > Kent
>
> More than likely all you will need to replace is just the bent
> valves. I would "lap-in" the new valves unless you have lots of
> miles on the head. If the valve seats look pitted, then you will
> probably need to grind the seats.
>
> What else did you have to replace in your engine? Sorry to hear
> about your problems.
>
> Fred
>
www.arrowheadmotorsports.com
>
>
>
>
>
> Archive Quicksearch at:
>
http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/klr650_data_search.html
> List sponsored by Dual Sport News at:
www.dualsportnews.com
> List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at:
www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Archive Quicksearch at:
http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/klr650_data_search.html
> List sponsored by Dual Sport News at:
www.dualsportnews.com
> List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at:
www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
valves
Posted: Thu May 03, 2007 4:44 pm
by David Peontek
The owners manual says to ride the new KLR 500 miles and then take it to the
dealer to have the oil changed and the valves adjusted. I have 700 miles.
I can change the oil. Question: how important is it to have the valves
adjusted? Is this something the owner can do of should a certified mechanic
do?
Dave
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
valves
Posted: Thu May 03, 2007 5:00 pm
by Zachariah Mully
On Thu, 2007-05-03 at 15:42 -0600, David Peontek wrote:
>
> The owners manual says to ride the new KLR 500 miles and then take it to the
> dealer to have the oil changed and the valves adjusted. I have 700 miles.
> I can change the oil. Question: how important is it to have the valves
> adjusted? Is this something the owner can do of should a certified mechanic
> do?
You can check the valves yourself, there are plenty of FAQs about this
and step-by-step guides online. I would have checked them even before
turning the engine over as I'm sure you'll find them all tight.
Z
valves
Posted: Thu May 03, 2007 5:03 pm
by dooden
Half a brain and a few tools is all it takes.
Take a look at:
http://www.klr650.marknet.us/valves.html
Would recommend printing it for reference, and reading it about a
dozen times before starting, pretty simple to do.
I would at least recommend checking the clearance, the valves tighten
up as it wears in, and as one lister might be finding out soon, tight
valves will burn, I like the statement "a tappy valve is a happy valve"
I waited to around 1,000 miles or a bit more and they were getting
close to tighter end of spec.
Your bike is the bottom line.
Dooden
A15 Green Ape
--- In
DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "David Peontek"
wrote:
>
>
>
> The owners manual says to ride the new KLR 500 miles and then take
it to the
> dealer to have the oil changed and the valves adjusted. I have 700
miles.
> I can change the oil. Question: how important is it to have the valves
> adjusted? Is this something the owner can do of should a certified
mechanic
> do?
>
>
>
> Dave
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
valves
Posted: Thu May 03, 2007 5:34 pm
by Jeff Saline
On Thu, 3 May 2007 15:42:51 -0600 "David Peontek"
writes:
> The owners manual says to ride the new KLR 500 miles and then take
> it to the
> dealer to have the oil changed and the valves adjusted. I have 700
> miles.
> I can change the oil. Question: how important is it to have the
> valves
> adjusted? Is this something the owner can do of should a certified
> mechanic
> do?
>
> Dave
<><><><><><><><><>
<><><><><><><><><>
Dave,
My suggestion is to change the oil immediately. Change the filter too.
If you aren't having issues with the engine starting or idling when hot
let the valves go until about 1,000 smiles or so. I like to suggest on a
new KLR you change the oil at 100 smiles, 500 smiles and 1,000 smiles on
the odometer. Also consider checking the valves at the 1,000 smile oil
change. Once you've been in the top end to adjust the valves you'll know
where the clearances are and my guess is you won't need to adjust them
for 8,000 or more miles. I went 12,000 on my bike. Make sure you
document all your maintenance.
An owner can do the valve adjustment if interested enough. No expensive
and fancy tools required. Attention to detail is required.
I'm curious as to who certifies motorcycle mechanics. I've been
wrenching on all kinds of vehicles, equipment and motorcycles since 1974
and I'm not certified. I have been told I'm certifiable. : )
I would think doing all your own work will give you confidence in the
equipment and also an intimate knowledge of what's what with it too. I
would hesitate to let anyone else work on my bike while I was able to
work on it. I don't even like folks checking side cover fasteners on my
bike for me. When I do the work it adds to my knowledge of what's going
on with my machine.
A short story from my Army days in Germany. I was detailed to get
Christmas trees one December day and was a bit rushed with other duties
that needed attention. I asked my best buddy, also a mechanic and
machinist, to check out the truck I was to drive. In a rush and running
behind schedule I asked him if it was ready to go and he said yes. I
signed the forms saying I'd checked it and left the post. A military van
was following me and we soon got on the autobahn. I was running about 50
mph when the rear of the truck jumped into the air. I looked in the left
side mirror and saw a wheel and tire in my lane. The van just missed it
and luckily there wasn't much traffic in that section of autobahn. My
spare tire hadn't been secured properly and had fallen off. It was
stored horizontally in front of the left side duals. This was on an M35
2 1/2 ton 6x6 for those familiar with them. I never again let someone
else check a vehicle for me and learned to check all work being done even
when someone else said they'd already done the work.
I would tell you to never believe someone else when they tell you what
valve clearances are. It only takes a few seconds to stick feeler gauges
into the gap to get your own reading. And then you'll know for sure what
the clearances are. Also it may be helpful to make a drawing and write
down what you find for clearances.
End of story and I'm off to Minneapolis.
Best,
Jeff Saline
ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal
Airheads Beemer Club
www.airheads.org
The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota
75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT
valves
Posted: Sat May 05, 2007 10:10 am
by Blake Sobiloff
On May 3, 2007, at 2:42 PM, David Peontek wrote:
> The owners manual says to ride the new KLR 500 miles and then take
> it to the
> dealer to have the oil changed and the valves adjusted. I have 700
> miles.
> I can change the oil.
Hi David! Get your butt in gear and change that oil and
filter!
Personally, I change the oil in a new engine at 50,
500, and 1,500 miles. There's a lot of crud and cruft left in the
engine as it comes out of the plant--especially with Kawi's old
school manufacturing processes.
> Question: how important is it to have the valves
> adjusted? Is this something the owner can do of should a certified
> mechanic
> do?
Most owners seem to do a better job of it than the certified
mechanics, so assuming you're familiar with tools I'd recommend doing
it yourself. Somewhere between 500 and 1,000 miles you'll get at
least one valve needing adjustment (and usually almost all will
benefit from a shim change). The FAQ has pointers to two different,
illustrated guides to adjusting your own valves, and the Clymer
manual (which every owner should have) provides a third resource as
well. Reading all these carefully before digging in will help
tremendously, and once you've done it yourself you'll be darn proud
of yourself as well!
--
Blake Sobiloff
http://sobiloff.typepad.com/blakeblog/>
http://sobiloff.typepad.com/klr_adventure/>
San Jose, CA (USA)
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
valves
Posted: Sat May 05, 2007 10:15 am
by Blake Sobiloff
On May 3, 2007, at 3:33 PM, Jeff Saline wrote:
> An owner can do the valve adjustment if interested enough. No
> expensive
> and fancy tools required.
Jeff, I hate to disagree, but I think that most folks should have a
1/4" torque wrench that measures in inch-pounds before attempting the
valves. At least in my experience, a 1/4" torque wrench is an
"expensive and fancy tool," but one that's certainly necessary if
you're going to do all the maintenance on a KLR. The torque settings
are too important to attempt by feel, and we all know how annoyingly
easy it is to strip the head cover bolts--and what a huge hassle it
is to get that fixed.
--
Blake Sobiloff
http://sobiloff.typepad.com/blakeblog/>
http://sobiloff.typepad.com/klr_adventure/>
San Jose, CA (USA)
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]