Horrible> > http://www.parktool.com/products/detail.asp?cat=13&item=TW%2D1 > > http://www.performancebike.com/shop/profile.cfm?SKU=11387 > > Fred > > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Jim Priest" wrote: > > > > > And who says a 1/4" torque wrench has to be expensive? My
> > > Freight 1/4" wrench works great and only cost me $25. > > > > Yep. I use an old fashioned beam-type and it works just fine. No > > stripped bolts (yet).> > > > Jim > > >
> > I see the 1/4" torque wrenches at your links are 0-60 in.lbs. whereas > the click type from Harbor Freight, JCWhitney,Overstock.com are 30- > 200 in.lbs. My 3/8" Craftsman is rated 40-250 in.lbs. I can > understand 0-60 would be more accurate and nicely overlap my 40-250, > but the torque spec shown in Clymer for the valve cover bolts is 71 > in.lbs. Any other suggestions? > > Dave > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "kestrelfal" > wrote: > > > > http://www.parktool.com/products/detail.asp?cat=13&item=TW%2D1 > > > > http://www.performancebike.com/shop/profile.cfm?SKU=11387 > > > > Fred > > > > > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Jim Priest" wrote: > > > > > > > And who says a 1/4" torque wrench has to be expensive? My > Horrible > > > > Freight 1/4" wrench works great and only cost me $25. > > > > > > Yep. I use an old fashioned beam-type and it works just fine. No > > > stripped bolts (yet).
<><><><><><><><><><><> <><><><><><><><><><><> Blake, I don't agree that a torque wrench is a fancy or expensive tool. But I can see how someone getting set up in the tool department might find it that way. : ) I'd suggest an inch pound torque wrench and a foot pound torque wrench that overlap a bit on the high end of the inch pound and low end of the foot pound scales. Then you can get the best coverage of torque values for the least amount of torque wrenches. I believe Sears has a sale on two models for about $69 or so from 6-12 May. And the add I saw said you get an accessory kit with each purchase. That included a couple of extensions, adapters and a u-joint. I think those would cover most of the needs for home shop mechanics on a KLR. I wouldn't suggest someone try to learn how to tighten bolts by "feel". And I would suggest that even folks with lots of experience at wrenching use torque wrenches regularly on critical fasteners. I seem to recall a story told by a guy working for "lockheed???" at an assembly plant. Mechanics were asked to torque some fasteners by feel. Some were very close to the correct torques and were also consistent with multiple fasteners. And some were all over the place with torque values and very inconsistent. I think I'll stick with using a torque wrench in most situations and get close and consistent on what I work on. And I don't see a problem using a 3/8" to 1/4" adapter on a torque wrench to get into tight areas. Thanks for bringing up the torque wrench issue. I'm sure it will help some novice and experienced mechanics alike. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT> On May 3, 2007, at 3:33 PM, Jeff Saline wrote: > > An owner can do the valve adjustment if interested enough. No > > expensive > > and fancy tools required. > > Jeff, I hate to disagree, but I think that most folks should have a > > 1/4" torque wrench that measures in inch-pounds before attempting > the > valves. At least in my experience, a 1/4" torque wrench is an > "expensive and fancy tool," but one that's certainly necessary if > you're going to do all the maintenance on a KLR. The torque > settings > are too important to attempt by feel, and we all know how annoyingly > > easy it is to strip the head cover bolts--and what a huge hassle it > > is to get that fixed. > -- > Blake Sobiloff > http://sobiloff.typepad.com/blakeblog/> > http://sobiloff.typepad.com/klr_adventure/> > San Jose, CA (USA)
On May 5, 2007, at 4:17 PM, Norm Keller wrote: > > Gee, Judd 48 years of wrenching KLRs (VBG) > > It is simply amazing how many people get into trouble by over > tightening small fasteners and under tightening large ones. > > Unless you have a very refined sense of feel and have spent the > time to actually check the tightening done to refine the feel as > Judd has done, do yourself a big favour and use a torque wrench. > > I see examples of home wrenching all the time where someone has > pulled past the torque wrench's setting and still stripped or > broken.... > > Buy 250 inch pound torque wrench and use it. A 100 foot pound will > cover the remainder of your needs. > > 47 years in the mechanical trades, Interprovicial Automotive, > Marine, Small Engines, Motorcycle certifications. Heavy equipment > and welding training. Many years automotive machine shop > experience. 10+ years teaching mechanics in colleges. 3rd Class > Power Engineering Certificate, advanced training in fasteners, > chassis and alignment. > > All that and, yes, I broke a 6mm bolt a while ago. It happens to > all of us if we are the least bit complacent. Or, in my case, a low > IQ (VBG). > > Just rambling, better get back to the chores. > > Norm > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
On May 5, 2007, at 4:38 PM, Jim Priest wrote: > > > I would say if you DO use a torque wrench - practice with it first if > you have never used one before. My first click-type torque wrench I > bought and promptly stripped the oil drain plug in my first Kawasaki > beater bike. So needless to say it went a LOONG time without an oil > change
On Jun 14, 2014, at 9:25 AM, Luc Legrain zrislois2klr@... [DSN_KLR650] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> wrote: Thank you all for the feed back . I have taken that sweet KLR apart so many times I could do it with my eyes closed (except for the valves shim job .. )Did everything I was supposed to . The old shims are in front of me ,properly identified ..intake left ,right , exhaust left, right , measured clearance ( in MILLIMETERS ...FRED !! even the freaking Brits are using m/m ! so why not here?? don't get it ) Speaking of Brits you know that they going to lose the football .. not soccer ..FOOTBALL game against Italy today in the World Cup, right ?Anyways all this talk in order to hide my stupid question : I'm shooting for the top of the specs(valves opening more or less?) on the valves What is it ? And please explain the wearing process . Why are the clearances reducing ? Thank you for the feed back and not calling me a dumb Frenchie or Frog !!
Luc, A tappy valve is a happy valve. So, you want the clearance on the large side. The valves rotate slightly as they cycle and with all that heat and no lubrication, metal to metal contact, something has to wear, or so Kawasaki taught me many, many moons ago. That constant rotation creates a slight lapping action on the valves and seats. Aren t you a Canuck???? Personally, I m a SoCal mountain redneck. The few, the unassailable. Italy doesn t look that good, I m taking Great Britain. Buddy On Jun 14, 2014, at 9:25 AM, Luc Legrain zrislois2klr@... [DSN_KLR650] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> wrote: Thank you all for the feed back . I have taken that sweet KLR apart so many times I could do it with my eyes closed (except for the valves shim job .. ) Did everything I was supposed to . The old shims are in front of me ,properly identified ..intake left ,right , exhaust left, right , measured clearance ( in MILLIMETERS ...FRED !! even the freaking Brits are using m/m ! so why not here?? don't get it ) Speaking of Brits you know that they going to lose the football .. not soccer ..FOOTBALL game against Italy today in the World Cup, right ? Anyways all this talk in order to hide my stupid question : I'm shooting for the top of the specs(valves opening more or less?) on the valves What is it ? And please explain the wearing process . Why are the clearances reducing ? Thank you for the feed back and not calling me a dumb Frenchie or Frog !!
[/quote][quote] Luc, A tappy valve is a happy valve. So, you want the clearance on the large side. The valves rotate slightly as they cycle and with all that heat and no lubrication, metal to metal contact, something has to wear, or so Kawasaki taught me many, many moons ago. That constant rotation creates a slight lapping action on the valves and seats. Aren t you a Canuck???? Personally, I m a SoCal mountain redneck. The few, the unassailable. Italy doesn t look that good, I m taking Great Britain. Buddy On Jun 14, 2014, at 9:25 AM, Luc Legrain zrislois2klr@... [DSN_KLR650] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> wrote: Thank you all for the feed back . I have taken that sweet KLR apart so many times I could do it with my eyes closed (except for the valves shim job .. ) Did everything I was supposed to . The old shims are in front of me ,properly identified ..intake left ,right , exhaust left, right , measured clearance ( in MILLIMETERS ...FRED !! even the freaking Brits are using m/m ! so why not here?? don't get it ) Speaking of Brits you know that they going to lose the football .. not soccer ..FOOTBALL game against Italy today in the World Cup, right ? Anyways all this talk in order to hide my stupid question : I'm shooting for the top of the specs(valves opening more or less?) on the valves What is it ? And please explain the wearing process . Why are the clearances reducing ? Thank you for the feed back and not calling me a dumb Frenchie or Frog !!
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