disconnecting the damn ignition parking light

[dpeontek]

Thanks everyone for all the information regarding my new KLR and valve adjustment. Dave --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Blake Sobiloff wrote:

> > On May 3, 2007, at 2:42 PM, David Peontek wrote: > > The owners manual says to ride the new KLR 500 miles and then

take

> > it to the > > dealer to have the oil changed and the valves adjusted. I have

700

> > miles. > > I can change the oil. > > Hi David! Get your butt in gear and change that oil and > filter! Personally, I change the oil in a new engine at 50, > 500, and 1,500 miles. There's a lot of crud and cruft left in the > engine as it comes out of the plant--especially with Kawi's old > school manufacturing processes. > > > Question: how important is it to have the valves > > adjusted? Is this something the owner can do of should a

certified

> > mechanic > > do? > > Most owners seem to do a better job of it than the certified > mechanics, so assuming you're familiar with tools I'd recommend

doing

> it yourself. Somewhere between 500 and 1,000 miles you'll get at > least one valve needing adjustment (and usually almost all will > benefit from a shim change). The FAQ has pointers to two

different,

> illustrated guides to adjusting your own valves, and the Clymer > manual (which every owner should have) provides a third resource

as

> well. Reading all these carefully before digging in will help > tremendously, and once you've done it yourself you'll be darn

proud

> of yourself as well! > > -- > Blake Sobiloff > http://sobiloff.typepad.com/blakeblog/> > http://sobiloff.typepad.com/klr_adventure/> > San Jose, CA (USA) > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] >

[Norm Keller]

>Yup, have to agree. Still, it *was* good >experience to learn how >to use a Helicoil. >-- >Doug Herr

Doug, you need to think about the difference between a "good" experience and a "valuable" experience. I think you meant "valuable". Running for cover, Norm [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Norm Keller]

On May 5, 2007, at 11:22 AM, Jud Jones wrote:

> Geez, I wish I had known this when I started turning wrenches about > 48 years ago. I have > been doing it wrong all this time. I'm overdue to strip one if I > don't change my ways.

Gee, Judd 48 years of wrenching KLRs (VBG) It is simply amazing how many people get into trouble by over tightening small fasteners and under tightening large ones. Unless you have a very refined sense of feel and have spent the time to actually check the tightening done to refine the feel as Judd has done, do yourself a big favour and use a torque wrench. I see examples of home wrenching all the time where someone has pulled past the torque wrench's setting and still stripped or broken.... Buy 250 inch pound torque wrench and use it. A 100 foot pound will cover the remainder of your needs. 47 years in the mechanical trades, Interprovicial Automotive, Marine, Small Engines, Motorcycle certifications. Heavy equipment and welding training. Many years automotive machine shop experience. 10+ years teaching mechanics in colleges. 3rd Class Power Engineering Certificate, advanced training in fasteners, chassis and alignment. All that and, yes, I broke a 6mm bolt a while ago. It happens to all of us if we are the least bit complacent. Or, in my case, a low IQ (VBG). Just rambling, better get back to the chores. Norm [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Jim Priest]

On 5/5/07, Norm Keller wrote:

> Unless you have a very refined sense of feel and have spent the time to actually check the tightening done to refine the feel as Judd has done, do yourself a big favour and use a torque wrench.

I would say if you DO use a torque wrench - practice with it first if you have never used one before. My first click-type torque wrench I bought and promptly stripped the oil drain plug in my first Kawasaki beater bike. So needless to say it went a LOONG time without an oil change I really like the beam because I can see the reading as well as get a 'feel' for things... At some point I'll probably strip something important and then break down and buy one Jim

[revmaaatin]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Zachariah Mully wrote:

> > Blake Sobiloff wrote: > > On May 3, 2007, at 2:42 PM, David Peontek wrote: > >> The owners manual says to ride the new KLR 500 miles and then

take

> >> it to the > >> dealer to have the oil changed and the valves adjusted. I have

700

> >> miles. > >> I can change the oil. > > > > Hi David! Get your butt in gear and change that oil and > > filter! Personally, I change the oil in a new engine at

50,

> > 500, and 1,500 miles. There's a lot of crud and cruft left in

the

> > engine as it comes out of the plant--especially with Kawi's old > > school manufacturing processes. > > I'd be curious for someone with a new KLR, say < 500 miles, to pull

the

> oil strainer screen to see how much slag and stuff is in the engine

from

> the factory. When I pulled mine on my A5 at 12,000 miles (due to a > cracked engine case) it was pretty well packed up with crap. > > If I ever bought a new KLR (unlikely I'd immediately pull the

oil

> strainer and do a valve check. > > Z >

Listen to unkle Zack, I believe he would also pull the oil screen on any new-to-Zack bikes, as well, not just new-manufacture bikes!

[Zachariah Mully]

David Peontek wrote:

> Z > > I changed my oil and will adjust the valves but: where is the OIL STRAINER > SCREEN that you referred to in your email to me? > > Dave

It's buried in the right hand side mid-engine case, IIRC. Under the clutch and all that crap. Not fun to pull, and definitely not necessary, but it catches all sorts of crap before the oil filter, like casting swarf, gasket material, bits and bobs of your engine as it breaks in. I'm not sure why they placed it there, probably because the oil galley that feeds the oil filter is small and would plug easily. Anyhow, it catches the big stuff, and on my A5 it was pretty well plugged up: http://www.speakeasy.org/~zmully/PICT0168.jpg During some long winter weekend, I'd recommend checking it. Z

[C L Cooper]

I guess your right. It could be done. Seems like a torque wrench would be cheaper and easier to use. Chuck

On 5/5/07, Zachariah Mully wrote: > > C L Cooper wrote: > > You're just pullin' our collective leg.... right??? > > No, you can certainly use an appropriate spring scale as long as you > take into account the length of your wrench. > > Z > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[tlh]

I like this one, inexpensive, and you get the feel for it. http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?cat=Mechanics+Tools&pid=00944690000&vertical=TOOL&subcat=Torque+Wrenches&BV_UseBVCookie=Yes

----- Original Message ----- From: Jim Priest To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, May 05, 2007 5:38 PM Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Valves On 5/5/07, Norm Keller wrote: > Unless you have a very refined sense of feel and have spent the time to actually check the tightening done to refine the feel as Judd has done, do yourself a big favour and use a torque wrench. I would say if you DO use a torque wrench - practice with it first if you have never used one before. My first click-type torque wrench I bought and promptly stripped the oil drain plug in my first Kawasaki beater bike. So needless to say it went a LOONG time without an oil change I really like the beam because I can see the reading as well as get a 'feel' for things... At some point I'll probably strip something important and then break down and buy one Jim [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Norm Keller]

The KLRs I've cleaned the screen on have varied from 500 miles to around 15,000 and all have had an amazing amount of silicone "worms" in the pick-up screen. IMO cleaning the screen is more "feel good" than necessary but I agree with Zack that my next new or even used KLR will have the screen cleaned very early on. It just doesn't make me feel good to think of the amount of stuff in that screen even though it is obvious from the number which are never cleaned, that it probably isn't necessary. Some basic maintenance items which (IMO) should be done on any acquired bike (new or not): 1) Change coolant but avoid the pink, long life stuff. (Just MO) 2) Change brake fluid with DOT4. Do not use DOT5 or other silicone fluids. 3) Re & re & grease the long bolts which go through the rear suspension and engine to frame. 4) Repack the rear suspension bearings also with a good boat trailer wheel bearing or other marine/waterproof grease. 5) Repack and adjust the steering head bearings. This should all be done on a yearly basis unless you have installed grease nipples. FWIW Norm [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[gmay131313]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Jim Priest" wrote:

> > On 5/5/07, Norm Keller wrote: > > Unless you have a very refined sense of feel and have spent the

time to actually check the tightening done to refine the feel as Judd has done, do yourself a big favour and use a torque wrench.

> > I would say if you DO use a torque wrench - practice with it first

if

> you have never used one before. My first click-type torque wrench I > bought and promptly stripped the oil drain plug in my first Kawasaki > beater bike. So needless to say it went a LOONG time without an oil > change > > I really like the beam because I can see the reading as well as get

a

> 'feel' for things... At some point I'll probably strip something > important and then break down and buy one > > Jim

I agree completely with the use of a torque wrench on any fastener that is going into aluminum, the smaller the more important. A couple things from my experience, I prefer the click type because sometimes you can't see the face of the beam type and also I have seen plenty of the beam type abused where the click type usually get treated with more respect. When I think about it (maybe once a year or so:-)) I usually take mine to work and check it against one there. On the subject of tightening by feel, I'm as guilty as anyone when it comes to unimportant fasteners but I've seen and had to deal with a lot of damaged treads, usually small on various pieces of electrical I service that were installed by millwrights with an advanced sense of feel for tightening without the use of a torque wrench because most people that don't regularily work with small fasteners overtighten them....just my opinion....Greg

>