where y'all been?

[achesley43@ymail.com]

Been a rebuilding year for me. But, on me body. 1st was triple by pass in January, So, not much activity for a few months after that. But, got back to small rides on both the KLR and Bandit in about March. Before that is was either my 95 Vette or 03 Truck. 

That evolved into  selling the 95 C4 Vette and buying an 03 C5 Vette. My birthday present to me. But, Still managing several ride about on the bikes every week. Locally about a 20 mile radius on the KLR and 100 mile radius on Bandit. Of course shared ride time with the car. 

Then came eye cataract surgery for one eye at the end of April and the other at the end of May. But, the KLR is being used several times a week around town while the Bandit sits with a battery tender. 

Maintenance on either bike has been null as nothing is needed. Did loose and retighten the steering head bearings on the KLR. And, going to need to take that apart soon for cleaning and regrease. I had change out all bearings and races at about 24K miles and now has 47.8 K miles at present. 

So, my 74 yr old body is still enjoying my bikes, car and truck. Gonna keep doing it till can't. 

Hope everyone else is enjoying life as much as I.  

[jeffsaline]

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So who in this group has clipped or disconnected this stupid awesome wonderful feature?  Please, for the love of Thor and Odin, can someone tell me how to get this feature off my KLR? I have already disconnected the clutch and kickstand feature back in 2008, but this feature lingers, like a door ding on a new car.  If I have to disassemble the entire bike, I'll do it, cause I swear, it's the last time. Frustrated and upset at myself (ready with wire cutters, electrical tape, soldering iron, solder), KLR Bugeater <><><><><><> <><><><><><>   Bugeater,   I haven't done it but looking at a wiring diagram and the inner workings of the ignition switch for a Gen I (1987-2007) KLR650 suggest this might take care of your needs.   At the connector on the main wiring harness to the ignition switch (located below the instrument cluster) remove the red and the red/white wire from the connector.  Connect them to each other and leave the ignition switch side of the connector alone.   What happens is when the key is in the on position the red and red/white wires are connected.  The red gets power from the headlight feed which is only powered when the key is turned on.  The red/white wire powers the tail and license plate lights.  So connecting them to each other by passes the ignition switch for that feature and moves it to the headlight power.  All you are doing is taking the ignition switch out of the circuit.   When the key is in the park position the inner workings of the ignition switch connects the white wire (always hot from the main fuse) with the red/white wire (powers the tail and license plate lights).  So when you remove the red and red/white wire from the switch it removes the park position rear lights.  The city lights leads (black/yellow and brown/white) at the front of the bike are also disabled in the park position and only get power when the tail and license plate lights receive power (key on position).   Let the list know if this works for you.   Best, Jeff Saline The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650   . . . . . . . . ____________________________________________________________ [b]1 Simple Trick Removes Eye Bags & Lip Lines In Seconds[/b] Fit Mom Daily http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3142/594ddee4661475ee44fe1st03vuc [img]https://ec.yimg.com/ec?url=https%3A%2F% ... v51_Ew--~E[/img]