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Jim
Posts: 1560
Joined: Thu Jun 07, 2001 11:15 am

valve adjustment

Post by Jim » Mon Feb 09, 2004 8:54 pm

Monday, February 9, 2004, 9:17:18 PM, JIm wrote: JaB> the klr than me do I adjust it now or run it for a season and do it when JaB> it is out of spec. If I do it now What shim do I order and where from, JaB> or do I take it apart to see what shim is in it now to determine what one JaB> to order. The shim's in it now are stock. Well if you have it apart I'd just do it now, and then you KNOW it's good. For sizes - http://home.austin.rr.com/ironjungle/ For where to get em - Fred at: http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com/ I dunno if there is such a thing as a 'stock' shim size? I did mine recently and all 4 were stamped 265. jim

Don Kime
Posts: 170
Joined: Wed Sep 03, 2003 9:24 am

valve adjustment

Post by Don Kime » Tue Feb 10, 2004 10:02 am

Jim, while you've got it open, I'd probably at a minimum change the 1 exhaust that is at .007, since that's near the lower limit. You say you have "stock" shims in now. There's two ways to look at this - either there is no stock shim or they're all stock! Don't mean to be flip, but an assembled head has a build-up of many tolerances which finally affect cam/lifter clearance. There is no one shim that is right for this buildup of tolerances. The head builder would simply build the head, measure the gap, and put in whatever shim that makes the clearance w/in spec. To change shims, you would have to take out the shim that's in there, turn it over (the thickness is always placed down), and see what thickness shim is installed. It will have a number stamped on it like 265 which stands for 2.65mm. Shims come in .05mm increments (.002"). In order to increase the clearance, you need to go to a thinner shim. I.E., if you're at 265, you could either go 260 (.009") or 255 (.011"). I would probably go to .011", as the clearance will diminish as the bike runs. I doubt that any of us could identify the difference between .010" and .011". So, to summarize, find out what shim you've got, put in a thinner one (either 5 or 10mm thinner), and button her back up. Take your time and good wrenching! Ride safe, Don Kime - VFR750F, GL1500SE, GL1100, KLR 650 OH - M/C Safety Instructor/RiderCoach dkime@... http://forums.delphiforums.com/MCTourer/ At 07:17 PM 2/9/04 -0700, JIm a Backer wrote:
> >I have a 92 A6 klr 650 that I just bought about a month ago with 11000 >miles on it. That said I checked the valve clearance today and found >that the left ex is .007 the right is .009 the left intake is .008 and >the right is .007 all look pretty good to me except the left exhaust. My >manual tells me that exhaust should be between 6 and 10 the intake >between 4 and 8 so my question to those that are more experienced with >the klr than me do I adjust it now or run it for a season and do it when >it is out of spec. If I do it now What shim do I order and where from, >or do I take it apart to see what shim is in it now to determine what one >to order. The shim's in it now are stock. >thanx >jim > >________________________________________________________________ >The best thing to hit the Internet in years - Juno SpeedBand! >Surf the Web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER! >Only $14.95/ month - visit www.juno.com to sign up today! > > >List sponsored by Dual Sport News at www.dualsportnews.com. List FAQ >courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html >Unsubscribe by sending a blank message to: >DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com . > > >Yahoo! Groups Links > > > >

Devon
Posts: 933
Joined: Sun Jun 03, 2001 7:13 pm

valve adjustment

Post by Devon » Tue Feb 10, 2004 11:42 am

dkime@... wrote:
> In order to increase the >clearance, you need to go to a thinner shim. I.E., if you're at 265, you >could either go 260 (.009") or 255 (.011"). I would probably go to .011", >as the clearance will diminish as the bike runs. >
In the interests of reducing maintainance, setting the valves to the outside of spec at the first check really helps. I checked my valves at 750mi, and set them all to the maximum clearance. The next time I actually had to change a shim was at 23,000mi. And the motor was definitely subjected to hard use. This was using Delvac 1300 oil, or sometimes Castrol 20w50. Nothing very pricey, changed every 2,000mi or so. Devon

vospertw
Posts: 25
Joined: Sun Apr 25, 2004 10:22 pm

valve adjustment

Post by vospertw » Mon Dec 27, 2004 9:55 pm

Just finished adjusting valves on my A14 today. Thanks to Mark for a great website; the pics and commentary were a big help in supplementing the Clymer manual. I used the shimcalc spreadsheet from ironjungle.com. Not sure if it's necessary, but sure made it easy. Couple of questions for you all... My intake clearances were right at the tight end of the spec but my exhaust clearances were down to .08mm instead of .15mm-.25mm. Do they normally get this tight, or does it appear that the valves hadn't been adjusted in a while? I have 10,230 miles on the bike. I was actually one shim short (needed three 2.5 shims and only had two. I shimmed them for .2mm and .25mm rather than .2mm and .2mm on the theory that it would be more beneficial to shim to the open end of the spec rather than shim them to the SAME spec. What would you guys have done? BTW, thanks to everyone for all the help this past week with my idling problems. Seems to be running fine now.

wannabsmooth1
Posts: 459
Joined: Wed Oct 09, 2002 4:32 pm

valve adjustment

Post by wannabsmooth1 » Mon Dec 27, 2004 10:09 pm

--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "vospertw" wrote:
> > Just finished adjusting valves on my A14 today. Thanks to Mark for a > great website; the pics and commentary were a big help in > supplementing the Clymer manual. I used the shimcalc spreadsheet from > ironjungle.com. Not sure if it's necessary, but sure made it easy. > Couple of questions for you all... My intake clearances were right at > the tight end of the spec but my exhaust clearances were down to > .08mm > instead of .15mm-.25mm. Do they normally get this tight, or does it > appear that the valves hadn't been adjusted in a while? I have 10,230 > miles on the bike. I was actually one shim short (needed three 2.5 > shims and only had two. I shimmed them for .2mm and .25mm rather than > .2mm and .2mm on the theory that it would be more beneficial to shim > to the open end of the spec rather than shim them to the SAME spec. > What would you guys have done? BTW, thanks to everyone for all the > help this past week with my idling problems. Seems to be running fine > now.
Todd, Glad it's more bettuh... That shim situation is when you are supposed to call the locals and say "hey, got a shim I can borrow?". I happen to know a couple of guys tha'll catch your back.... :-) all the best, Mike

rsanders30117
Posts: 469
Joined: Mon Dec 22, 2003 11:06 am

valve adjustment

Post by rsanders30117 » Tue Dec 28, 2004 10:10 am

I agree with you approach, especially with the exhaust valves which wear the quickest due to runnig hotter. I've always set my valves to the max clearance or a couple thousands beyond. Having done this many times at >25K miles, I've had no problems & check the valves no sooner than 7 to 8K miles frequency.
--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "vospertw" wrote: > > Just finished adjusting valves on my A14 today. Thanks to Mark for a > great website; the pics and commentary were a big help in > supplementing the Clymer manual. I used the shimcalc spreadsheet from > ironjungle.com. Not sure if it's necessary, but sure made it easy. > Couple of questions for you all... My intake clearances were right at > the tight end of the spec but my exhaust clearances were down to > .08mm > instead of .15mm-.25mm. Do they normally get this tight, or does it > appear that the valves hadn't been adjusted in a while? I have 10,230 > miles on the bike. I was actually one shim short (needed three 2.5 > shims and only had two. I shimmed them for .2mm and .25mm rather than > .2mm and .2mm on the theory that it would be more beneficial to shim > to the open end of the spec rather than shim them to the SAME spec. > What would you guys have done? BTW, thanks to everyone for all the > help this past week with my idling problems. Seems to be running fine > now.

kawasherpa
Posts: 4
Joined: Fri Feb 11, 2005 8:31 pm

valve adjustment

Post by kawasherpa » Fri Feb 11, 2005 8:31 pm

Hi members. I just joined and will get my 2005 klr 650 next week. we are dealing as to trading in my super sherpa or selling it myself. I have a question about the valve adj. intervals. The dealer is telling me it is 4,000 miles. He also said no one does it at 4,000 and to check them at 6 to 8 thousand. This sounds more reasonable since my zx-1100 ninja requires checking at 6,000 miles. So I thought this might be a good POLLS question. Ask how often valves are checked and see if there is a connection with the number of shimms changed. If this has already been done please tell me where I can find this information. How would not following the maintenance schedule affect warranty? Thanks Rick

wannabsmooth1
Posts: 459
Joined: Wed Oct 09, 2002 4:32 pm

valve adjustment

Post by wannabsmooth1 » Fri Feb 11, 2005 8:44 pm

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "kawasherpa" wrote:
> > Hi members. I just joined and will get my 2005 klr 650 next week. > we are dealing as to trading in my super sherpa or selling it > myself. I have a question about the valve adj. intervals. The > dealer is telling me it is 4,000 miles. He also said no one does it > at 4,000 and to check them at 6 to 8 thousand. This sounds more > reasonable since my zx-1100 ninja requires checking at 6,000 miles. > So I thought this might be a good POLLS question. Ask how often > valves are checked and see if there is a connection with the number > of shimms changed. If this has already been done please tell me > where I can find this information. How would not following the > maintenance schedule affect warranty? Thanks Rick
The FAQ on the home page is an incredible resource, but is very objective. In this case, I won't be. Your dealer does not know what he is talking about. You NEED to get in there between 600 and 1000 miles. 1 Exhaust shim will probably NEED replacing 1 exhaust and 1 intake could use replacing, and you might as well set the other intake to the high side. The, go 6K and check them - if you set them all to the high side. This has been the history of evey 1st valve adj I've done, or helped. Many dealers charge the full price for a 1st service, and don't do the valves. They either say"they never need it", or "wait til next service", and charge you $235 to $500 for lubing cables, maybe checking tire pressure, and oil change. Find a tech day near you, learn how to do it, easy after 1st time. Also lube rear suspension and swingarm stuff. All the best, Mike

Jim
Posts: 1560
Joined: Thu Jun 07, 2001 11:15 am

valve adjustment

Post by Jim » Sat Feb 12, 2005 12:02 am

Sell the sherpa yourself. How much and where is it? --Jim A-15
> Hi members. I just joined and will get my 2005 klr 650 next week. > we are dealing as to trading in my super sherpa or selling it > myself. I have a question about the valve adj. intervals. The > dealer is telling me it is 4,000 miles. He also said no one does it > at 4,000 and to check them at 6 to 8 thousand. This sounds more > reasonable since my zx-1100 ninja requires checking at 6,000 miles. > So I thought this might be a good POLLS question. Ask how often > valves are checked and see if there is a connection with the number > of shimms changed. If this has already been done please tell me > where I can find this information. How would not following the > maintenance schedule affect warranty? Thanks Rick

Tengai Mark Van Horn
Posts: 1922
Joined: Tue Nov 19, 2002 8:31 pm

valve adjustment

Post by Tengai Mark Van Horn » Sat Feb 12, 2005 12:17 am

Nah... keep the Sherpa as a woods bike. Mark At 6:02 AM +0000 2/12/05, Jim wrote:
>Sell the sherpa yourself. How much and where is it? >--Jim >A-15 > >> Hi members. I just joined and will get my 2005 klr 650 next week. >> we are dealing as to trading in my super sherpa or selling it >> myself.

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