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[Stuart Mumford]

> -----Original Message----- > > I spent 9 years of my 20 in the Air Force wrenching on > Minuteman ICBMs. The Air Force is pretty picky about > nuclear surety and how its Minutemen are maintained > and we were trained to use sockets, crows feet and > extensions with our torque wrenches. The particular > things we were taught about torque wrench use: > > 1. Always store a torque wrench at its lowest setting. > 2. Always "exercise" a torque wrench at its lowest > setting before use by clicking it at least 4 times in > each direction. > 3. Never drop a torque wrench...if it happens, don't > use it again until it's been recalibrated by the PMEL > (Precision Measurement Equipment Laboratory). > 4. The lowest 20% of a torque wrench's range is the > least accurate - always choose a torque wrench with > sufficient range to avoid using this lowest 20%. > 5. Always apply torque is a slow, smooth motion until > the proper torque is achieved - AVOID JERKING the > torque wrench when applying torque as it is easy to > over-torque the fastener when jerking. > 6. The fastener should be turned at least 1/4 turn > before the desired torque is achieved, to ensure the > fastener is not over-torqued. In other words, if the > wrench clicks as soon as it is turned, chances are > good the fastener is over-torqued. > 7. NEVER used a cheater bar or extend the length of a > torque wrench - THIS will affect the applied torque. > 8. Torque wrench accuracy can be affected by > temperature extremes. Always store torque wrenches at > "room temperature" prior to use. In Montana, we often > worked in temps WAY below zero, so we stored our > torque wrenches in a heated maintenance vehicle or in > the "soft support building" or in the LER (lower > equipment room)prior to use. > > I think that about covers it. > > Scott > >

Exceptional post, Scott. That is an accurate, informative post, delivered by an expert. Thanks! I would like to point out though, for KLR purposes, any semi-functional torque wrench is good enough. Considering the tolerances and fit and finish of your average KLR, if the bolt isn't stripped, broken, and/or cross threaded, it's A-OK! Cheers CA Stu

[scott quillen]

Stu, Thanks for the compliment...BUT I'm no expert by any means...just retained what the Air Force drilled into my head all those years ago. Scott --- Stuart Mumford wrote:

> > -----Original Message----- > > > > I spent 9 years of my 20 in the Air Force > wrenching on > > Minuteman ICBMs. The Air Force is pretty picky > about > > nuclear surety and how its Minutemen are > maintained > > and we were trained to use sockets, crows feet and > > extensions with our torque wrenches. The > particular > > things we were taught about torque wrench use: > > > > 1. Always store a torque wrench at its lowest > setting. > > 2. Always "exercise" a torque wrench at its lowest > > setting before use by clicking it at least 4 times > in > > each direction. > > 3. Never drop a torque wrench...if it happens, > don't > > use it again until it's been recalibrated by the > PMEL > > (Precision Measurement Equipment Laboratory). > > 4. The lowest 20% of a torque wrench's range is > the > > least accurate - always choose a torque wrench > with > > sufficient range to avoid using this lowest 20%. > > 5. Always apply torque is a slow, smooth motion > until > > the proper torque is achieved - AVOID JERKING the > > torque wrench when applying torque as it is easy > to > > over-torque the fastener when jerking. > > 6. The fastener should be turned at least 1/4 turn > > before the desired torque is achieved, to ensure > the > > fastener is not over-torqued. In other words, if > the > > wrench clicks as soon as it is turned, chances are > > good the fastener is over-torqued. > > 7. NEVER used a cheater bar or extend the length > of a > > torque wrench - THIS will affect the applied > torque. > > 8. Torque wrench accuracy can be affected by > > temperature extremes. Always store torque wrenches > at > > "room temperature" prior to use. In Montana, we > often > > worked in temps WAY below zero, so we stored our > > torque wrenches in a heated maintenance vehicle or > in > > the "soft support building" or in the LER (lower > > equipment room)prior to use. > > > > I think that about covers it. > > > > Scott > > > > > > Exceptional post, Scott. > That is an accurate, informative post, delivered by > an expert. Thanks! > > I would like to point out though, for KLR purposes, > any semi-functional > torque wrench is good enough. > > Considering the tolerances and fit and finish of > your average KLR, if the > bolt isn't stripped, broken, and/or cross threaded, > it's A-OK! > > Cheers > CA Stu > > > > Archive Quicksearch at: >

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[Ron Moorhouse]

I have 800 miles on new 650 and want to go on 400 mile road trip this Sat and Sun and will not have time to adj valves. I see the first time should be around 500 miles. Am I asking for trouble or ok to do valves after this ride? Counting down to the GDR in July. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Denis Dimick]

Since it sounds like you bike is pretty new, only 800 miles on it, I don't feel there would be a problem. The 500 mile check it just that a check of the valve clearance, normally there is nothing else required. I'd go for the ride and check them when you get back. HtH, Denis

On 5/18/06, Ron Moorhouse wrote: > > I have 800 miles on new 650 and want to go on 400 mile road trip this Sat > and Sun and will not have time to adj valves. > > I see the first time should be around 500 miles. > > Am I asking for trouble or ok to do valves after this ride? > > > Counting down to the GDR in July. > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > Archive Quicksearch at: > http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/klr650_data_search.html > List sponsored by Dual Sport News at: www.dualsportnews.com > List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html > Member Map at: http://www.frappr.com/dsnklr650 > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Blake Sobiloff]

On May 18, 2006, at 6:22 AM, Ron Moorhouse wrote:

> I have 800 miles on new 650 and want to go on 400 mile road trip > this Sat and Sun and will not have time to adj valves.

Yeah, you'll probably be OK, but get 'em adjusted as soon as you get back. They usually tighten up a little bit during the first 500 or so miles, but not down to the minimums. I've read a few reports of the valves tightening to the minimums by around 2,000 miles, though, and of course every bike is different. -- Blake Sobiloff http://sobiloff.typepad.com/> San Jose, CA (USA)

[jokerloco9@aol.com]

Are you feeling lucky? I did my 2006 at 1198 miles. Lazy. All valves were at minimum clearance, one exhaust was .002 tight. I was at the point of getting close to doing damage. Flip a coin......... Jeff A20 -----Original Message----- From: Ron Moorhouse To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thu, 18 May 2006 06:22:38 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [DSN_KLR650] valve adjustment I have 800 miles on new 650 and want to go on 400 mile road trip this Sat and Sun and will not have time to adj valves. I see the first time should be around 500 miles. Am I asking for trouble or ok to do valves after this ride? Counting down to the GDR in July. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Archive Quicksearch at: http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/klr650_data_search.html List sponsored by Dual Sport News at: www.dualsportnews.com List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html Member Map at: http://www.frappr.com/dsnklr650 Yahoo! Groups Links [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[a14@att.net]

You must not have read my report. I checked my valves on 03/01/2000 with 625 miles and the engine was never over 4,000 RPM. Left Exhaust: 0.005" Right Exhaust: 0.005" Left Intake: 0.004" Right Intake: 0.003" Score three below minimum and one at the minimum. Now you've heard. Walt (Glad I checked mine.) P.S. I've built many thousands of engines, transmissions and rears without any problems so yes I do know how to check clearance properly.

> Yeah, you'll probably be OK, but get 'em adjusted as soon as you get > back. They usually tighten up a little bit during the first 500 or so > miles, but not down to the minimums. I've read a few reports of the > valves tightening to the minimums by around 2,000 miles, though, and > of course every bike is different. > -- > Blake Sobiloff > http://sobiloff.typepad.com/> > San Jose, CA (USA) > >

[Bogdan Swider]

On 5/18/06 11:26 AM, "a14@..." wrote:

> You must not have read my report. I checked my valves on 03/01/2000 > with 625 miles and the engine was never over 4,000 RPM. >

So Walt....you don't believe in the rev it up break in some advocate ? Bogdan

[a14@att.net]

> So Walt....you don't believe in the rev it up break in some advocate ? > > Bogdan >

I've tried to stay out of the break in procedure discussions because once somebody is convinced they know the 'best way' you could beat the living sh1t out of them with facts and they still wouldn't understand. But since you asked I believe either extreme of break in procedure can be correct if applied to the proper situation. Now you must be wondering what does that mean? I'll be very brief. Usually if an engine was designed for longevity the clearances are tighter and the choice of materials for the bearings, pistons, rings, cylinder wall, and cylinder wall finish are different than an engine designed for competition. Therefore it is usually better to keep the engine speeds down until the parts have had some time to become familiar with their mates to prevent galling. It is also important to vary engine speeds and hard acceleration and deceleration is encouraged early in the engine's life to seat the rings. Also too low an idle speed or lugging is bad especially for the cams. Then there are the engines built to ring out every little bit of power you can. Typically the clearances are on the loose side to reduce friction. Ring tension is also reduced and to make up for it softer materials are used. These engines don't require limiting engine speeds to prevent galling and also don't require as much special care to seat the rings due to the softer materials. Break in after the first ten minutes usually involves revving the snot out of it to make sure it stays together. They also don't last very long but if you are in serious competition you will tear it down anyway between events to insure peak performance. Walt

[Bogdan Swider]

On 5/18/06 1:21 PM, "a14@..." wrote:

>> So Walt....you don't believe in the rev it up break in some advocate ? >> >> Bogdan >> > > I've tried to stay out of the break in procedure discussions because > once somebody is convinced they know the 'best way' you could beat the > living sh1t out of them with facts and they still wouldn't understand.

Yeah, it's more fun to get into disputes on subjects you don't know much about.

> > Therefore it is usually better to keep the engine speeds down until the parts > have had some time to become familiar with their mates to prevent galling. It > is also important to vary engine speeds and hard acceleration and deceleration > is encouraged early in the engine's life to seat the rings. Also too low an > idle speed or lugging is bad especially for the cams. >

So.. Do I understand you correctly? In the first few miles one should accelerate and decelerate hard; after that, for 500 miles or so, one should take it easy but not lug the engine. Also I've always been confused by what is meant by varying engines speed. Does that mean change revs every 100 yards or every 1/4 mile or what ? Sorry to drag you into this but you have much expertise and I'm curious as to what you think. Bogdan

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